Difference between revisions of "Cogmans Buttress"

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=== Cogmans Buttress ===
 
=== Cogmans Buttress ===
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[[File:Cogmans_buttress_paths.jpg|400px|right]]'''Online Topo for Cogmans Buttress'''
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http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/montagu/cogmans-kloof/cogmans-buttress/
  
 
=== Getting There ===
 
=== Getting There ===
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There area cairns marking the path.
 
There area cairns marking the path.
  
Eagles Folly area:  
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* Castles Buttress
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There are two ways - From the start of Another Day In Paradise traverse left to the crag (this can be a bit bushy and there is no established path).
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Or
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Walk up from the other side (start across the road from Assvoelkraans Accommodation).  Once at the neck, walk left approximately 50 meters, move over a small ridge and proceed down to the start of the routes.
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==Eagles Folly Buttress:==
 
Drive past the Cogmans Buttress parking spot until you are below the Eagles Folly Buttress (+/- another 600 meters on).  Park and find your way into the river bed.  Rock hop your way up and when the river bed starts getting steep, move out right and zigzag your way up on the right.  At the top (you can see into Keur Kloof from here) move across left to the bottom of the ridge.  
 
Drive past the Cogmans Buttress parking spot until you are below the Eagles Folly Buttress (+/- another 600 meters on).  Park and find your way into the river bed.  Rock hop your way up and when the river bed starts getting steep, move out right and zigzag your way up on the right.  At the top (you can see into Keur Kloof from here) move across left to the bottom of the ridge.  
  
[[File:Cogmans_buttress_paths.jpg]]
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==Cogmans Buttress==
 
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*Another Day In Paradise 22 A0 19
[[File:Another_day_in_paradise.jpg‎|frame|Kevin Marki on Another Day in Paradise (21/22) Cogmans Buttress, Montagu Photo by Justin Lawson|right]]
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*Magical Mystery Tour 18
 
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*The Rave 22
''' Another Day In Paradise''' ==
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*Tocando El Vacio 27
To the left of the Rave.
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*Low Battery 23
* P1. 4a/10 5 Bolts 23mm
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*Burnt by the Sun 23
* P2. 6b+/22 or 19 A0 13 Bolts 25m
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* P3. 5c/18 7 Bolts 20m
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* P4. 5b/17 9 Bolts 30m
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* P5. 3c/12 5 Bolts 20m
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* P6. 5c/18 11 Bolts 25m
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* P7. 5b/17 9 Bolts 20m
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Bolts sponsored by Axel Wegmann, Swiss visitor and friend.
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Ab down route. 60m rope !!! Beware of loose flake above bolt 6 on last pitch !!!
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The Raves rap line.
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'''Magical Mystery Tour''' ***
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* P1. 4a/10 4Bolts 15m shares first 3 bolts with paradise.
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* P2. 5c/18 9 Bolts 20m
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* P3. 5b/17 9 Bolts 30m
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* P4. 5c/18 11 Bolts 30m
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Ab down route. 60m rope !!! Link up to second stance on Paradise after 4th bolt on pitch 3. *** Bolts sponsored by De Bos Guest Farm
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'''The Rave'''
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* (6 Pitches - highest grade 6c/22)
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'''TOCANDO EL VACIO'''
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50m right of "The Rave"
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* P1. 24/6c+ 35m
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* P2. 27/7b+ 35m
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* P3. 22/6b+ 35m
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* P4. 27/7b+ 30m
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* Decent: 3xAbseils. 30m; 35m; 60m!!!
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Bolted from ground up by Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Antonio Bayoma - 05.08.03
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'''LOW BATTERY'''
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Right of "Tocando el Vacio"
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* P1. 16/5b
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* P2. 18/6a
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* P3. 23/6c
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* P4. 23/6c
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* Decent: 2xAbseils. P4-P1 50m; P1- ground
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Bolted from ground up, you might need a set of nuts on first pitch.By Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Catherine Mader,Antonio Bayoma - 7/8.07. 03
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'''Burnt by the Sun'''
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* P1: 17 28m (10B,C) **
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* P2: 19 26m (10B,C)
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* P3: 21/22 28m (9B,C)
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* P4: 22/23 30m (14B,C)
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M. Roberts & P. McCann. 2003.
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Click [http://www.debos.co.za/climbing/cogmans-buttress/ here for the Cogmans Buttress topo] on Debos.co.za
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'''Castle in the Sky 19/6a 18 bolts 60m! FA Stuart and Regula Brown, 4.11.08'''
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This route has a little bit of everything and a bit more... it just keeps on going (fantastic!) it is of very good quality, enjoy the journey.
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==Castles Buttress==
  
Warning :!: This route is not to be approached with a normal sport climber attitude. It has a very big "trad" route feel and the leader should be comfortable with grade 19. Communication between climber and belayer is limited due to the length. After the half way mark you can not be lowered off.
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*Castles in the Sky - Grade 21 18 Bolts *FA Stuart and Regula Brown, 4.11.08
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*Sand Castles 
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- Pitch 1 -  Grade 14, 9 bolts + anchors
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- Pitch 2 - Grade 16 8 bolts + anchors
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*FA: Garvin Jacobs 27.0415
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Bolted with Hilti 316 68mm
  
Do not attempt to clean the route by lowering off. The route has some loose rock on it so don't pull on everything (& think about taking a helmet). One is able to make a semi hanging belay at half way if things get a bit airy, some good cracks for medium to small nuts and a bolt. Have some longer slings for rope drag.
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Warning ❗  This route is not to be approached with a normal ‘sport climber attitude’. It has a very big “trad” route feel and the leader should be very comfortable with grade 21. Communication between climber and belayer is limited due to the length.  After the half way mark you can not be lowered off.
  
:!: Do not rap off the route, there are birds nesting lower down in the gully :!:
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Do not attempt to clean the route by lowering off.  The route has some loose rock on it so don’t pull on everything (a helmet is advised).  One is able to make a semi hanging belay at half way if things get a bit airy, some good cracks for medium to small nuts and a bolt.  Take along a few longer slings for rope drag.
  
- Approach from Aasvoelkrans, walk up the trail to the beacon.
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    !: Do not rap off the route, there are birds nesting lower down in the gully ❗
- Just before the beacon as the path takes a right turn, take a left to the saddle overlooking Cogmans Buttress.
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- Kit up here and leave rucksack.
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- Follow cairns first to the right then down the slope to the left to the lowest point of the face.
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- Descend via a lower off from a bolt with a leaver biner into the gully and walk up the gully and down the slope to where the rucksacks are.
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– Approach –
- Look for two large cairns for easiest way down.
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Option 1:  From Aasvoelkrans, walk up the trail to the beacon. – Just before the beacon as the path takes a right turn, take a left to the saddle overlooking Cogmans Buttress. – Kit up here and leave rucksack. – Follow cairns first to the right then down the slope to the left to the lowest point of the face.
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Option 2:  Walk up the usual route to Cogmans Buttress and then traverse across left to the bottom of the route.
  
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– Descent –
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Lower off from 2 bolts into the gully and walk up the gully and down the slope to where the rucksacks are. – Look for two large cairns for easiest way down.
  
 
[[Category:Montagu]]
 
[[Category:Montagu]]
[[Category:Cogmans Kloof]]
 

Latest revision as of 13:45, 28 April 2015

Cogmans Buttress

Cogmans buttress paths.jpg
Online Topo for Cogmans Buttress

http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/montagu/cogmans-kloof/cogmans-buttress/

Getting There

Drive out of Montagu, go around the first bend about 250 meters on your right there is a wire gate. Park here (do not obstruct the entrance). The path starts across the road and is marked with a cairn.
Follow the path up for +/-30 meters to another path and turn right. Follow the path but DO NOT turn up left where the 'poles and wire' are obstructing the path - carry on walking across. The path follows up left later on. There area cairns marking the path.

  • Castles Buttress

There are two ways - From the start of Another Day In Paradise traverse left to the crag (this can be a bit bushy and there is no established path). Or Walk up from the other side (start across the road from Assvoelkraans Accommodation). Once at the neck, walk left approximately 50 meters, move over a small ridge and proceed down to the start of the routes.

Eagles Folly Buttress:

Drive past the Cogmans Buttress parking spot until you are below the Eagles Folly Buttress (+/- another 600 meters on). Park and find your way into the river bed. Rock hop your way up and when the river bed starts getting steep, move out right and zigzag your way up on the right. At the top (you can see into Keur Kloof from here) move across left to the bottom of the ridge.

Cogmans Buttress

  • Another Day In Paradise 22 A0 19
  • Magical Mystery Tour 18
  • The Rave 22
  • Tocando El Vacio 27
  • Low Battery 23
  • Burnt by the Sun 23

Castles Buttress

  • Castles in the Sky - Grade 21 18 Bolts *FA Stuart and Regula Brown, 4.11.08
  • Sand Castles

- Pitch 1 - Grade 14, 9 bolts + anchors - Pitch 2 - Grade 16 8 bolts + anchors

  • FA: Garvin Jacobs 27.0415

Bolted with Hilti 316 68mm

Warning ❗ This route is not to be approached with a normal ‘sport climber attitude’. It has a very big “trad” route feel and the leader should be very comfortable with grade 21. Communication between climber and belayer is limited due to the length. After the half way mark you can not be lowered off.

Do not attempt to clean the route by lowering off. The route has some loose rock on it so don’t pull on everything (a helmet is advised). One is able to make a semi hanging belay at half way if things get a bit airy, some good cracks for medium to small nuts and a bolt. Take along a few longer slings for rope drag.

   !: Do not rap off the route, there are birds nesting lower down in the gully ❗

– Approach – Option 1: From Aasvoelkrans, walk up the trail to the beacon. – Just before the beacon as the path takes a right turn, take a left to the saddle overlooking Cogmans Buttress. – Kit up here and leave rucksack. – Follow cairns first to the right then down the slope to the left to the lowest point of the face. Option 2: Walk up the usual route to Cogmans Buttress and then traverse across left to the bottom of the route.

– Descent – Lower off from 2 bolts into the gully and walk up the gully and down the slope to where the rucksacks are. – Look for two large cairns for easiest way down.