Cogmans Buttress

From South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki
Revision as of 10:30, 5 February 2012 by Toprope (Talk | contribs)

Jump to: navigation, search

Cogmans Buttress

Getting There

Drive out of Montagu, go around the first bend about 250 meters on your right there is a wire gate. Park here (do not obstruct the entrance). The path starts across the road and is marked with a cairn.
Follow the path up for +/-30 meters to another path and turn right. Follow the path but DO NOT turn up left where the 'poles and wire' are obstructing the path - carry on walking across. The path follows up left later on. There area cairns marking the path.

Eagles Folly area: Drive past the Cogmans Buttress parking spot until you are below the Eagles Folly Buttress (+/- another 600 meters on). Park and find your way into the river bed. Rock hop your way up and when the river bed starts getting steep, move out right and zigzag your way up on the right. At the top (you can see into Keur Kloof from here) move across left to the bottom of the ridge.

Cogmans buttress paths.jpg

Kevin Marki on Another Day in Paradise (21/22) Cogmans Buttress, Montagu Photo by Justin Lawson

Another Day In Paradise == To the left of the Rave.

  • P1. 4a/10 5 Bolts 23mm
  • P2. 6b+/22 or 19 A0 13 Bolts 25m
  • P3. 5c/18 7 Bolts 20m
  • P4. 5b/17 9 Bolts 30m
  • P5. 3c/12 5 Bolts 20m
  • P6. 5c/18 11 Bolts 25m
  • P7. 5b/17 9 Bolts 20m

Bolts sponsored by Axel Wegmann, Swiss visitor and friend. Ab down route. 60m rope !!! Beware of loose flake above bolt 6 on last pitch !!! The Raves rap line.

Magical Mystery Tour ***

  • P1. 4a/10 4Bolts 15m shares first 3 bolts with paradise.
  • P2. 5c/18 9 Bolts 20m
  • P3. 5b/17 9 Bolts 30m
  • P4. 5c/18 11 Bolts 30m

Ab down route. 60m rope !!! Link up to second stance on Paradise after 4th bolt on pitch 3. *** Bolts sponsored by De Bos Guest Farm

The Rave

  • (6 Pitches - highest grade 6c/22)

TOCANDO EL VACIO 50m right of "The Rave"

  • P1. 24/6c+ 35m
  • P2. 27/7b+ 35m
  • P3. 22/6b+ 35m
  • P4. 27/7b+ 30m
  • Decent: 3xAbseils. 30m; 35m; 60m!!!

Bolted from ground up by Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Antonio Bayoma - 05.08.03

LOW BATTERY Right of "Tocando el Vacio"

  • P1. 16/5b
  • P2. 18/6a
  • P3. 23/6c
  • P4. 23/6c
  • Decent: 2xAbseils. P4-P1 50m; P1- ground

Bolted from ground up, you might need a set of nuts on first pitch.By Albert Segura, Pilar Rossimyol, Catherine Mader,Antonio Bayoma - 7/8.07. 03

Burnt by the Sun

  • P1: 17 28m (10B,C) **
  • P2: 19 26m (10B,C)
  • P3: 21/22 28m (9B,C)
  • P4: 22/23 30m (14B,C)

M. Roberts & P. McCann. 2003.

Click here for the Cogmans Buttress topo on

Castle in the Sky 19/6a 18 bolts 60m! FA Stuart and Regula Brown, 4.11.08

This route has a little bit of everything and a bit more... it just keeps on going (fantastic!) it is of very good quality, enjoy the journey.

Warning :!: This route is not to be approached with a normal sport climber attitude. It has a very big "trad" route feel and the leader should be comfortable with grade 19. Communication between climber and belayer is limited due to the length. After the half way mark you can not be lowered off.

Do not attempt to clean the route by lowering off. The route has some loose rock on it so don't pull on everything (& think about taking a helmet). One is able to make a semi hanging belay at half way if things get a bit airy, some good cracks for medium to small nuts and a bolt. Have some longer slings for rope drag.

!: Do not rap off the route, there are birds nesting lower down in the gully :!:

- Approach from Aasvoelkrans, walk up the trail to the beacon. - Just before the beacon as the path takes a right turn, take a left to the saddle overlooking Cogmans Buttress. - Kit up here and leave rucksack. - Follow cairns first to the right then down the slope to the left to the lowest point of the face.

- Descend via a lower off from a bolt with a leaver biner into the gully and walk up the gully and down the slope to where the rucksacks are. - Look for two large cairns for easiest way down.