Cogmans Buttress

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Cogmans Buttress

Cogmans buttress paths.jpg
Online Topo for Cogmans Buttress

http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/montagu/cogmans-kloof/cogmans-buttress/

Getting There

Drive out of Montagu, go around the first bend about 250 meters on your right there is a wire gate. Park here (do not obstruct the entrance). The path starts across the road and is marked with a cairn.
Follow the path up for +/-30 meters to another path and turn right. Follow the path but DO NOT turn up left where the 'poles and wire' are obstructing the path - carry on walking across. The path follows up left later on. There area cairns marking the path.

  • Castles Buttress

There are two ways - From the start of Another Day In Paradise traverse left to the crag (this can be a bit bushy and there is no established path). Or Walk up from the other side (start across the road from Assvoelkraans Accommodation). Once at the neck, walk left approximately 50 meters, move over a small ridge and proceed down to the start of the routes.

Eagles Folly Buttress:

Drive past the Cogmans Buttress parking spot until you are below the Eagles Folly Buttress (+/- another 600 meters on). Park and find your way into the river bed. Rock hop your way up and when the river bed starts getting steep, move out right and zigzag your way up on the right. At the top (you can see into Keur Kloof from here) move across left to the bottom of the ridge.

Cogmans Buttress

  • Another Day In Paradise 22 A0 19
  • Magical Mystery Tour 18
  • The Rave 22
  • Tocando El Vacio 27
  • Low Battery 23
  • Burnt by the Sun 23

Castles Buttress

  • Castles in the Sky - Grade 21 18 Bolts *FA Stuart and Regula Brown, 4.11.08
  • Sand Castles

- Pitch 1 - Grade 14, 9 bolts + anchors - Pitch 2 - Grade 16 8 bolts + anchors

  • FA: Garvin Jacobs 27.0415

Bolted with Hilti 316 68mm

Warning ❗ This route is not to be approached with a normal ‘sport climber attitude’. It has a very big “trad” route feel and the leader should be very comfortable with grade 21. Communication between climber and belayer is limited due to the length. After the half way mark you can not be lowered off.

Do not attempt to clean the route by lowering off. The route has some loose rock on it so don’t pull on everything (a helmet is advised). One is able to make a semi hanging belay at half way if things get a bit airy, some good cracks for medium to small nuts and a bolt. Take along a few longer slings for rope drag.

   !: Do not rap off the route, there are birds nesting lower down in the gully ❗

– Approach – Option 1: From Aasvoelkrans, walk up the trail to the beacon. – Just before the beacon as the path takes a right turn, take a left to the saddle overlooking Cogmans Buttress. – Kit up here and leave rucksack. – Follow cairns first to the right then down the slope to the left to the lowest point of the face. Option 2: Walk up the usual route to Cogmans Buttress and then traverse across left to the bottom of the route.

– Descent – Lower off from 2 bolts into the gully and walk up the gully and down the slope to where the rucksacks are. – Look for two large cairns for easiest way down.