Croc River Canyon

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          • UNDER REVISION *****

Croc River Canyon- update

Note: Current access is as follows. The guards at the gate have a key to the entrance of the gorge. They are aware of climbers going to and from the gorge. They will open for you. Please treat them nicely.

Main Wall Gorge.jpg The rightmost section of the Main Wall

The Croc River Canyon is an afternoon crag, that is at its best in the Winter seasons. Although the crag can be climbed all year round, summer brings soring temperatures of 35C to 40C+! The routes are particularly runout, even for some easier grades. The main wall is just over 30metres high, so a 70m rope would be a safe bet. The croc river runs next to the crag, which gives the place great ambience, despite it being located right by the Riverside Mall. In summer do a few routes and grab an ice-cream afterwards(or a latte for winter time)!

Getting there

Animals/insects one needs to keep an eye out for are: 1) Black Mamba's(Or any other poisonous snake) 2) Crocodiles 3)Wasps on routes(Summer seasons)

There has been spottings of crocs near the crag). Don't let this put you off- generally there have been few incidents.

Park at the Riverside Mall in Nelspruit. Head for the government buildings(The egg shaped building), and go to the security located just to the right(looking from the malls side), of the big traffic circle. There is a gate there which is padlocked, ask the security to open up and tell them your going climbing. Walk next to the fence for 50m, and turn right on a faint path.(In summer this may be hard to find, because of the Lowveld plant life!) You should pass an old derelict small building on your left, then make your way down the gorge until your at the river(There will be a cairn there). Turn left and walk for 100m or so, until the crag appears on your left.

The routes below are listed from the first route as you get to the crag, to last route on the main wall. IS Baboon Rob Vincent.jpg

Robert Vincent on the ultra classic 'I IS Baboon' 21

Super Fly 7b/26 *** 60m Starts on polished holds, move your way up to better friction. Short and sweat. This would be a good first 7b, its easy to access from 'Megachilide'. FA: Gary Lowther 2007

Megachilide Start just right of 'Super Fly', but just left of a large buttress. Do some interesting moves. 17*[10D] 60m

FA:Nicole Hemphill 2002

Creature Comforts The first route on the prominent buttress. Has some great climbing, on steepish rock. Could well be soft. 7b/ 26***[9D] 60m

FA:Alard Hufner 2002

The Full Spectrum 7c+/29****[] 60m Starts on the crack of 'Puppy Love', then breaks left onto the middle of the buttress. This route has all sorts to offer. Bring your full repertoire!(This was the Invaders must die project, and has subsequently been renamed not to scare people off)

FA: Donovan Willis

Puppy love 7b+/27 ***[12D] 60m

If you are that rare bread that enjoys hard off-widths, then this one is for you! Climb the prominent crag on the buttress, right of 'Creature Comforts'. FA:Hunt Cheney 2003

Beetle juice 19***[9D,R] 70m The slabbish route about 15m right of 'Puppy love' FA:Mike Mason 2002

Raboebie 16*****[14D,60m!] This is a fantastic two pitch route! Climb the first pitch or if you have a 70m rope, combine both pitches. There is a fair amount of rope drag, if you combine both pitches, even though the line is quite straight. Starts by an overhanging boulder about 6m right of 'beetle juice'. FA;Craig Kluckow 2002

Pumpin pistons 17***[] Just right of raboebie. Do some delicate maneuvering to the chains. FA:Rudy Halbich

The concertina effect 18* Description... FA:?? BB:Nicole Hemphil

Active suspension 7c+/29****[9D] The slightly overhanging wall just left of spongebob squarepants. No hidden grips on this one! What you see is what you get...Be prepared to take some big air if you're not comfortable at the grade. The tree at the start of the route is off-route- do not be tempted!!!

FA:Donovan Willis 2008

Spongebob squarepants 7a/24****[9D]

An excellent face climb on a prominent block. The bottom has been made safer, with an extra bolt. FA:Jonothan Salzwedel 2004

The Pope's Nose 7a/24****[9D]

Climb the arête feature of the buttress, after a steep start. Groovy arête climbing all the way! Starts right of 'SpongeBob squarepants'.

FA: Hunt Cheney 2012


The Swarm Project 7c+ CLOSED project

BB: Donovan Willis

I IS baboon 21*****[13D] 70m Immaculate Yosemite style climbing. Climbs the open book feature.

FA;Hunt Cheney 2002

Pirates Project 7a OPEN Project. Just plausible. Scramble up to the 2nd bolt of I IS Baboon, then belayer clips in and climber fires diagonally right on the waves of granite, finish up at the chains of the 'My Mona Lisa' project. Will have to be back climbed... The ships waiting... BB: Donovan Willis

Smooth Apricot jam 22*****[13D]70m The most perfect warm-up one could get! Or just amazing sustained climbing on good holds far apart... Enjoy the jam! FA:Hunt Cheney 2002

Juste a Temps Project 7c/7c+ CLOSED PROJECT. Tests the mind and body. BB: Donovan Willis

Emergancy Exit 7a/24**** Dance your way through the bottom, and do some weird climbing higher up. The thorn bush has been cleared away making this quite a pleasant climb. BB:Hunt Cheney

My Mona Lisa Project 8c/8c+/9a 20meters of hard bouldering. CLOSED PROJECT! BB: Donovan Willis

Futuristic impressions of the past 19***[N] Walk past the main wall, to near the waterfall. The line starts in an open book. A great line... Awaiting a retro bolt. FA:Alard Hufner 2002