Difference between revisions of "Divine Time 19 *****"
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Revision as of 09:29, 24 February 2014
Start View the topo on the photograph. The route traverses in from the right and the start is marked with a cairn place on a block.
- Pitch 1 : (19) 52m Do a couple of moves up the white rock and place a high large cam. Crank through to a jug - a bit rounded if you are short. Continue straight up the good quality grey rock to a ledge at 35m or so. Start up the obvious recess and step right onto the face and continue to a ledge at the base of the orange rock.
- Pitch 2 : (19) 40m Head for the left leaning recessed ramp and continue to below a large overhang. Climb through the overhang on the right. One can place excellent gear at the lip from an under-cling in the corner under the over-hang. Make sure you have very long slings to avoid drag if you choose to leave gear in the rail under the overhang. Swing out right and climb diagonally up right avoiding the chossy channel on the left. Follow the good rock diagonally right passing the first triangular overhang and continue past the second, larger triangular overhang on the right and then straight up as per the topo to a belay ledge or, if you can manage the drag combine the next pitch to stance on a large ledge.
- Pitch 3 : (19) 12m Continue over grey rock more or less straight up but tending right to a large ledge system. Move back left and belay below left leaning gray flakes 3m above you.
- Pitch 4 (19) 40m Place a 1 inch cam up on the right. Climb up the flakes first using jugs and then lay-back after placing the very obvious 2.5 inch cam (gold camelot or equivalent). Above you are huge roofs. Move up to under the roof and then pull through the obvious notch to find yourself under another massive roof system. Exit this on the right and then climb straight up the arete to belay left of a large yellow wood tree/bush.
- Pitch 5 : (18) 20m Climb the obvious recess using the flakes and then do a crank through the overlap to continue more easily to the top.
FA: C Edelstein, Deon Van Zyl February 2014
(See Topo on photograph)
Descent is an elegant and relatively safe 4 abseils. 60m ropes are recommended.
Walk horizontally right for 60m along the ledge system to a point round the corner and find a thread below you in an obvious recess.
- 1. Abseil about 10m to a large ledge.
- 2. Look around at the back of the ledge and find a threaded rap point and biner. Abseil 50m or so and you find a point over a horn kept in place by a rock.
- 3. Abseil about 30m to an obvious ledge system and look for a threaded rap point with a lever biner.
- 4. Abseil about 25m to the ground.
OR use the DOWN TIME Rap Route