Difference between revisions of "Divine Time 19 *****"
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Revision as of 15:47, 17 March 2014
Start View the topo on the photograph. The route traverses in from the right and the start is marked with a cairn place on a block.
- Pitch 1 : (19) 55m Do a couple of moves up the white rock and place a high large cam. Crank through to a jug - a bit rounded if you are short. Continue straight up the good quality grey rock to a ledge at 35m or so. Start up the obvious recess and step right onto the face/pillar and continue to a ledge with some blocks at the base of the orange rock.
- Pitch 2 : (19) 55m Head for the left leaning recessed ramp and continue to below a large overhang. Climb rightwards through the overhang on the right. One can place excellent gear at the lip from an under-cling in the corner under the over-hang. Make sure you have very long slings to avoid drag if you choose to leave gear in the rail under the overhang. Swing out right and climb diagonally up right avoiding the chossy channel on the left. Follow the good rock diagonally right passing the first triangular overhang and continue past the second, larger triangular overhang on the right and then straight up as per the topo to a belay ledge or, if you can manage the drag combine the next pitch to stance on a large ledge. if you get too much drag you can stance earlier. If the overhang looks too scary and intimidating you can make a stance on a perch down and to the left of the overhang.
- Pitch 3 (19) 50m Place a 1 inch cam up on the right. Climb up the flakes first using jugs and then lay-back after placing the very obvious 2.5 inch cam (gold camelot or equivalent). Above you are huge roofs. Move up to under the roof and then pull through the obvious notch to find yourself under another massive roof system. Exit this on the right and then climb straight up the arete to belay left of a large yellow wood tree/bush.
- Pitch 5 : (18) 20m Climb the obvious recess using the flakes and then do a crank through the overlap to continue more easily to the top.
FA: C Edelstein, Deon Van Zyl February 2014
(See Topo on photograph)
Descent is an elegant and relatively safe 4 or 5 abseils. 60m ropes are recommended.
Walk horizontally 60m right along the ledge system on the buttress to the right around the corner and find a threaded sling point (thick green rope and leaver biner).
1. Abseil about 15m to a large ledge. 2. Look around at the back of the ledge and find a threaded rap point and biner. Abseil 35m or so and you find a point over a horn kept in place by a rock. It is easier to pull the rope from here. OR: 3. There is another sling point over a horn about 20m lower and a bit to the left. (You can combine abseil 2 and 3 but pulling the rope down is then quite strenuous. What works well is if the first person to descend stays at the first sling point and then sorts out the rope which is usually twisted. Then the rest of the party can combine abseil 2 and 3. And then while they sort out the next point the person who abseiled first can come down on one of the ropes. 4. Abseil about 30m to an obvious ledge system and look to the left past a bush for a threaded rap point with a leaver biner. 5. Abseil about 45m to the ground.