Eagle's Folly Buttress

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Getting There

Drive out of Montagu into Cogman's Kloof passing the big contorted Cogman's Buttress on your left. Eagle's Folly Buttress appears next, higher up the mountainside. Park and find your way into the stream bed coming down from the buttress. Rock hop your way up and when the stream bed starts getting steep, move out right and zigzag your way up on the right. At the top (you can see over the ridge into Keur Kloof from here) move across left to the base of the buttress.

Eagles folly walkup.jpg

Routes:

1. Eagle's Folly 200m 16

This was the first rock climb ever established in the Montagu area. The original write-up was first published in the UCT Mountain & Ski Club's 1971 journal. The RD was re-published in the SA Mountain December 2003 edition.

The route follows the prominent central arête leading to the highest point in the area.

First ascent: Greg Moseley and Brian de Villiers, 1971

The RD in pdf format:

File:Dec Issue - 2003 Dec Issue - 2003.pdf

Eagles folly RD.JPG


IMGP8178.JPG

2. Eagle's Arête 45m 19 S2

At the head of the gully to the left of the main buttress (i.e. the descent gully for Eagle's Folly) lies a striking arête. Eagle's Arête climbs this feature.

Route Description: starting below on the right head up the steep and undercut slab to your left. Head up the face and turn the overhang on the right. Head up the face then bear left to gain the arête. Head straight on up to the top.

First ascent: Guy Paterson-Jones and Hilton Davies, 18 August 2013

IMGP8232.JPG

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