Difference between revisions of "Eastern Cape"

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(Map of Climbing Areas in the Eastern Cape)
 
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Eastern Cape climbing offers a variety of different rock types.  There are many small crags with good potential for new route development. 
 
 
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-33.715785, 23.843001|[[Kleinrivier]]
 
-33.924301, 24.249397 |[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
 
-33.927547, 24.268979 |[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]
 
</display_points>
 
 
= Eastern Cape Climbing Areas=
 
Most of the crags in this province are listed below with a brief description and a few images. Please note that the images may not do the crag justice. Where the crag-name is linked you should find the online guide as well as more information on the area.
 
 
 
__NOTOC__
 
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The Eastern Cape offers a variety of different rock with lots of potential for new route development. The climbing venues are scattered broadly over the entire Eastern Cape. There are nearly 800 sport routes, hundreds of trad lines & a few bouldering areas. There are a few indoor bouldering venues. The largest is at Rhodes University. The climbing community is fairly small, but quite active & welcoming. Climbing days are mostly coordinated via various whatapp groups. For more information http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/ or contact info@easterncaperockclimbing.co.za .     
  
==[[Alicedale]]==
 
Small bouldering area near Grahamstown, access still being negotiated.
 
<gallery>
 
File:Clm0161b.jpg|Bouldering at Alicedale
 
</gallery>
 
 
==[[Bobbejaankop & African Rennaissance]]==
 
 
==[[Buffalo River]]==
 
Close to East London with short routes on dolorite, set in thick bush, 7 sport routes and over 100 trad routes. Good potential for more routes here. Contact Allen Luck 083 756-4290 for access.
 
 
==[[Cape St Francis]]==
 
 
==Cockscombe==
 
A series of walls & kloofs (gorges) about an hour from Port Elizabeth. Mostly trad routes are found here. Check with the MCSA for access conditions.
 
<gallery>
 
File:Lsc0041b.jpg|Cockscombe, Gorge 21
 
File:Clm0075b.jpg|Gorge 20, Cockscombe
 
File:Lsc0040b.jpg|Cockscombe, Gorge 9
 
File:Clm0074b.jpg|Gorge 12, Cockscombe
 
</gallery>
 
 
==Coffee Bay==
 
Seacliffs, excellent short trad routes. Contact the Coffeeshack backpacker's lodge.
 
 
 
==Compassberg==
 
Multi-pitch trad routes near Nieu Bethesda. Contact the MCSA for details.
 
 
 
==Coombs==
 
Short sport routes near Grahamstown, access permanently closed due to climbers not following access requirements. Please check access carefully at crags before just rocking
 
 
 
==Crag-X Grahamstown==
 
Small crag with a bit of bouldering not too far from Grahamstown.
 
<gallery>
 
File:Clm0090b.jpg|'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown
 
</gallery>
 
 
==[[Fort Fordyce]]==
 
A few sport routes can be found here visit Climbing the Amatoles for more information.
 
 
 
==Graaf Reinet==
 
Sport routes near the caravan park under construction. Contact Herman van Rensburg.
 
 
 
==Grootrivierpoort==
 
At the start of Baviaanskloof, a.k.a "Grips". Sport and trad routes. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.
 
 
 
==Hellspoort==
 
Crag near Grahamstown closed due to climbers littering!
 
 
 
==[[Hogsback]]==
 
Sport & trad routes near the beautiful town of Hogsback. Hogsback in the Amatola Region, Eastern Cape.
 
<gallery>
 
File:Clm0167b.jpg|Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC
 
</gallery>
 
 
==[[Howissen's Poort/Scoops]]==
 
Short sport routes close to Grahamstown.
 
 
 
==Joubertina==
 
Sport & Trad climbing in the Kouga mountains. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.
 
 
==Keinrivier==
 
 
==Lady Slipper==
 
Some quartzite bouldering on a few boulders and about 90 trad lines up on the mountain. It is about 40km from Port Elizabeth.
 
<gallery>
 
File:Clm0164b.jpg|Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape
 
File:Clm0091b.jpg|Brett Ribbink on 'The Lady's Slipper'
 
File:Clm0163b.jpg|Eric de Beer on Corner Cafe at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape
 
 
</gallery>
 
 
==Lalapanzi==
 
A dolorite crag some 80km from East London (on the way to Morgan Bay). Only 7 trad routes have been openned so far.
 
 
 
==[[Morgan Bay]]==
 
Seacliffs, brilliant short trad routes with a few good sport routes on a mix of dolerite, sedimentary & granite. Route book at the Morgan Bay Hotel, or contact Derek Marshall on 083 681-8713 in East London. 315 routes here so far.
 
 
 
==[[NSA, East London]]==
 
In East London, some sandtone with 12 sport routes ranging from 17-26 and an open project with a few trad routes too.
 
 
 
==[[Pinnacle Gorge]]==
 
Morne v/d Mescht on 'The Pinnacle' Pinnacle Gorge, EC
 
<gallery>
 
File:Clm0166b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on 'The Pinnacle' Pinnacle Gorge, EC
 
File:Clm0165b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on 'Spider route', Pinnacle Gorge, EC
 
File:Clm0159b.jpg|Morne v/d Mescht on Chasing the Sun, Pinnacle Gorge
 
</gallery>
 
 
==Pompies Pillar==
 
A short dolerite crag in East London with 1 sport route and a couple of trad lines, limited potential.
 
 
 
==The Grots==
 
Tiny bouldering area near Grahamstown.
 
 
 
==[[The Shire]]==
 
 
 
==Van Staden's Gorge==
 
 
 
==Vanstadensriver Dam==
 
About 10 sport routes close to Lady's Slipper. Contact Steven Reed from the MCSA.
 
<gallery>
 
File:Clm0160b.jpg|Hydrophilic, The Beach
 
</gallery>
 
  
==[[Windmill Hole]]==
 
In East London with some sport routes on sandstone ranging from 14-25 as well as 10 trad routes.
 
  
 +
{| class="wikitable"
 +
|-
 +
! Area Name  !! Featured Image  !! Climbing Type  !! Description
 +
|-
 +
| <big>[[Alicedale]]</big> || [[File:Clm0161b.jpg|thumb|link=]] || Bouldering || Sand stone quartzite with more than 350 boulder problems. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/alicedale-bouldering Updated PDF guide]
 +
|-
 +
| <big>[[Nguniland]]</big> || ''image needed'' || Trad & Sport || Quartzite slabs outside Kareedow in the Langkloof. 9 sport routes & 26 trad lines. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/nguniland-kareedow Updated guide]
 +
|-
 +
| <big>[[Buffalo River]]</big> || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || 30km from East London. Short routes on dolorite, set in thick bush, 10 sport & about 500 trad routes. Some potential for more routes. Contact Allen Luck 083 756-4290 for access. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/buffalo-river-east-london Updated guide]
 +
|-
 +
| [[Cape St Francis]] || ''image needed'' || Bouldering || Seaside bouldering. About 165 problems, mostly easy to moderate.  [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/cape-st-francis Updated guide]
 +
|-
 +
| [[Cockscomb]] || [[File:Lsc0041b.jpg|thumb|link=]] || Trad || Prominent mountain peak near Port Elizabeth. Walk-in 5 hours.[http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/cockscoomb Updated guide] 
 +
|-
 +
| Compassberg || ''image needed'' || Multi-pitch Trad || Multi-pitch trad routes on dolorite near Nieu Bethesda. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/compassberg Route guide is here]
 +
|-
 +
| Crag-X Grahamstown || [[File:Clm0090b.jpg|'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown|thumb|link=]] || Example || Bouldering in Grahamstown.
 +
|-
 +
| [[Fort Fordyce]] || '' image needed'' || Trad & sport || More than 70 sport routes & some trad. Dolorite. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/fort-fordyce Updated PDF Guide]
 +
|-
 +
| Groot Rivier || ''image needed'' || Trad & sport || 30km from Plettenberg Bay in the direction of Port Elizabeth. 7 sport routes & an amazing pinnacle. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/groot-rivier-plettenberg-bay On-line route discriptions]
 +
|-
 +
| Grips || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || A huge quartzite slab face at the eastern end of Baviaanskloof. Sport and trad routes. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/grips-baviaanskloof Updated guide]
 +
|-
 +
| [[Hogsback]] || [[File:Clm0167b.jpg|Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC|thumb|link=]] || Sport & Trad || Sport & trad routes on dolorite above Hogsback village. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/hogsback Updated PDF Guide]
 +
|-
 +
| [[Howissen's Poort]] || ''image needed'' || Sport || 42 overhanging sport routes on sandstone quartzite close to Grahamstown. 1 minute walk-in. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/howieson-s-poort-grahamstown Updated guide]
 +
|-
 +
| Joubertina || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || Sport & Trad climbing on quarzite in the Kouga mountains. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/kouga-wildernis-joubertina Updated guide]
 +
|-
 +
| [[Lady's Slipper]] || [[File:Clm0164b.jpg|Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape|thumb|link=]] || Trad, Sport & Bouldering || Quartzite, mix of overhanging & slab routes. 52 sport routes, 333 trad lines & more than 80 boulder problems. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/lady-s-slipper Updated guides] 
 +
|-
 +
| [[Morgan Bay]] || ''image needed'' || Trad || Sea cliffs with a subtropical feel, more than 600 short trad routes on dolerite. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/morgan-bay Updated guide]
 +
|-
 +
| [[NSA, East London]] || ''image needed'' || Predominantly sport climbing || In East London, smooth vertical mudstone or siltstone. More than 60 sport routes ranging from 16-32. There are a few trad routes. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/nsa Updated guide]
 +
|-
 +
| [[Pinnacle Gorge]] || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || 37 sport routes & more than 450 trad lines on sandstone quartzite mix. Access is sensitive. Please contact info@easterncaperockclimbing.co.za for more information.
 +
|-
 +
| The Grots || ''image needed'' || Bouldering || Bouldering area near Grahamstown. Quartzite.[http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/grots-bouldering-grahamstown Updated guide]
 +
|-
 +
| Van Stadens  || [[File:Clm0160b.jpg|Hydrophilic, The Beach|thumb|link=]] || Sport || More than 270 sport routes on quartzite about 35km out of Port Elizabeth. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/van-stadens-gorge Updated guide]
 +
|-
 +
| [[Waterkloof]] || [[File:Waterkloof-2010-16.jpg|Hydrophilic, Donovan Willis showing his guns on an unnamed 29 in Waterkloof, Eastern Cape|thumb|link=]] || Sport || The kloof is a sport climbers dream. The area is pristine, the rock is excellent, the walk-in is short and in summer the kloof stays very cool. Quartzite. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/waterkloof-baviaanskloof-rock-climbing Updated PDF guide]
 +
|-
 +
| [[Windmill Hole]] || ''image needed'' || Sport & Trad || In East London. 12 sport routes on vertical mudstone/siltstone ranging from 15-25. 15 trad routes. Easy walk-in. [http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/windmill-hole-east-london Updated PDF Guide]
  
==Yellow Sands==
+
|}
About 25km from East London, an amazing short dolorite crag. Access is sensitive please first contact Derek Marshall on 083 681-8713. There are 3 bolted lines graded 20-24 and a few trad lines with some development potential.
+
  
=Eastern Cape Climbing Clubs=
+
==Eastern Cape Climbing Clubs==
There is an Eastern Cape section of the [http://eas.mcsa.org.za MCSA] and the [http://www.ru.ac.za/sportsadmin/sportsclubs/mountain/ Rhodes University Mountain club].
+
[http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/ MCSA EP Section] and the [http://www.ru.ac.za/sportsadmin/sportsclubs/mountain/ Rhodes University Mountain club].

Latest revision as of 13:22, 26 April 2017

The Eastern Cape offers a variety of different rock with lots of potential for new route development. The climbing venues are scattered broadly over the entire Eastern Cape. There are nearly 800 sport routes, hundreds of trad lines & a few bouldering areas. There are a few indoor bouldering venues. The largest is at Rhodes University. The climbing community is fairly small, but quite active & welcoming. Climbing days are mostly coordinated via various whatapp groups. For more information http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/ or contact info@easterncaperockclimbing.co.za .


Area Name Featured Image Climbing Type Description
Alicedale
Clm0161b.jpg
Bouldering Sand stone quartzite with more than 350 boulder problems. Updated PDF guide
Nguniland image needed Trad & Sport Quartzite slabs outside Kareedow in the Langkloof. 9 sport routes & 26 trad lines. Updated guide
Buffalo River image needed Sport & Trad 30km from East London. Short routes on dolorite, set in thick bush, 10 sport & about 500 trad routes. Some potential for more routes. Contact Allen Luck 083 756-4290 for access. Updated guide
Cape St Francis image needed Bouldering Seaside bouldering. About 165 problems, mostly easy to moderate. Updated guide
Cockscomb
Lsc0041b.jpg
Trad Prominent mountain peak near Port Elizabeth. Walk-in 5 hours.Updated guide
Compassberg image needed Multi-pitch Trad Multi-pitch trad routes on dolorite near Nieu Bethesda. Route guide is here
Crag-X Grahamstown
'The Celestial Omnibus', Crag-X, Grahamstown
Example Bouldering in Grahamstown.
Fort Fordyce image needed Trad & sport More than 70 sport routes & some trad. Dolorite. Updated PDF Guide
Groot Rivier image needed Trad & sport 30km from Plettenberg Bay in the direction of Port Elizabeth. 7 sport routes & an amazing pinnacle. On-line route discriptions
Grips image needed Sport & Trad A huge quartzite slab face at the eastern end of Baviaanskloof. Sport and trad routes. Updated guide
Hogsback
Steven Reed on 'Starstruck', Hogsback, EC
Sport & Trad Sport & trad routes on dolorite above Hogsback village. Updated PDF Guide
Howissen's Poort image needed Sport 42 overhanging sport routes on sandstone quartzite close to Grahamstown. 1 minute walk-in. Updated guide
Joubertina image needed Sport & Trad Sport & Trad climbing on quarzite in the Kouga mountains. Updated guide
Lady's Slipper
Eric de Beer on After Dinner Mint Boulder at Lady Slipper, Eastern Cape
Trad, Sport & Bouldering Quartzite, mix of overhanging & slab routes. 52 sport routes, 333 trad lines & more than 80 boulder problems. Updated guides
Morgan Bay image needed Trad Sea cliffs with a subtropical feel, more than 600 short trad routes on dolerite. Updated guide
NSA, East London image needed Predominantly sport climbing In East London, smooth vertical mudstone or siltstone. More than 60 sport routes ranging from 16-32. There are a few trad routes. Updated guide
Pinnacle Gorge image needed Sport & Trad 37 sport routes & more than 450 trad lines on sandstone quartzite mix. Access is sensitive. Please contact info@easterncaperockclimbing.co.za for more information.
The Grots image needed Bouldering Bouldering area near Grahamstown. Quartzite.Updated guide
Van Stadens
Hydrophilic, The Beach
Sport More than 270 sport routes on quartzite about 35km out of Port Elizabeth. Updated guide
Waterkloof
Hydrophilic, Donovan Willis showing his guns on an unnamed 29 in Waterkloof, Eastern Cape
Sport The kloof is a sport climbers dream. The area is pristine, the rock is excellent, the walk-in is short and in summer the kloof stays very cool. Quartzite. Updated PDF guide
Windmill Hole image needed Sport & Trad In East London. 12 sport routes on vertical mudstone/siltstone ranging from 15-25. 15 trad routes. Easy walk-in. Updated PDF Guide

Eastern Cape Climbing Clubs

MCSA EP Section and the Rhodes University Mountain club.