Exposure

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Exposure in ‘F’ Major - Witteberg ***** Grade F3/17

K Fletcher, H Graafland, H Snyders and G Ward 1963

For a real rock route – this is it!! Exposed in summer, exposured in winter.

Start

The approach is the same as for Pisa Wall but, after ascending the last gully, traverse right along a grass band that narrows at a waterfall. Traverse underneath the waterfall and then cut left up the slope into a gully running down from the face. Walk up the gully and scramble up onto a shoulder at the foot of a rock rib.

Description

  • P1: 30m “F1”. Either ascend the recessed chimney to the right of the rib, or else up the rib itself.
  • P2: 18m “E3”. Continue up the recess above and exit left at the top.
  • P3: 20m “F1”. Climb across slabs diagonally up to the right to gain a stance under red overhangs.
  • P4: 32m “F3”. Climb up to the right of the overhang, then back left and up a Layback edge. Ascend this and then move right across a shallow red recess to an edge. Continue across the edge into a recess and climb up to a tiny stance.
  • P5: 16m “F1”. Climb up a metre or so and then continue around the corner to the right. Continue up to a handrail under the overhangs. Traverse to the right to a very poor stance.
  • P6: 32m “F2”. Climb up above the stance and then move up to the left to a prominent recessed chimney. Half way up the chimney it is possible to move out to the right to an exposed nose which is climbed to a stance.
  • P7: 10m “D”. Proceed up diagonally right to a stance on top of a block next to a gully.
  • P8: 16m “F2”. Climb up a recessed chimney, leaving it on the left hand side to reach a fair stance.
  • P9: 11m “F2”. Climb up diagonally right until it is possible to move up to the left on spaced footholds and cupholds in the face. Continue to a good stance. This pitch is steep and sustained and should not be underestimated, especially in cold weather. Many climbers who walked the crux have come to grief here.
  • P10: 18m “F1”. Continue up a shallow recess above the stance, then climb up to the left and up to a very small stance.
  • P11: 22m “F1”. Climb up slightly to the left into a prominent recess with well weathered rock. Continue up the recess until forced to exit to the right to an obvious stance.
  • P12: 20m “E3”. Go straight up above the stance to a flake forming a prominent crack. Climb up the outside, or alternatively up the inside of the crack to a wide ledge.

Scramble up to the right. One short “E” grade pitch up a recess follows. Zig-zag up approximately 100 metres of “C/D” grade rock to the top of the ridge, choosing the line of least resistance.

Descent

Go down ramps and ledges in a north-westerly direction. This will bring one out on a vlakte between the Witteberg and the Kromrivier Dome. One can either descend the gully which separates the Witteberg from the lower ridges which feature the ‘Cascades Route’. The top of the gully will be recognized by the ‘V’ shape of the rocks at its head. Alternatively walk across the vlakte in a westerly direction towards the top of the Cascades. A good path will be found which goes down the ‘A’ ridge towards the tunnel.

PDF Topo Download

http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/du-toits-kloof/exposure-in-the-f-major-trad-17/