Difference between revisions of "Fern Kloof (sport and trad)"

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Revision as of 15:31, 23 January 2013

Access

Access is via the Bergheim Resort which offers good camping facilities etc. Get onto the R28 highway from Johannesburg or Pretoria and travel west towards Krugersdorp. When the highway gets to a 4-way stop at a Zenex garage turn right towards Tarlton. Follow the road to a T-junction at another Zenex Garage and Oak Tree shop where you turn right. Follow this road until you see a sign to "Bekker Skole", turn left (if you get to a T-junction before this turn you missed it by a few km. Pass "Bekker Skole" and turn right at the next T-junction. Follow this road towards Rustenburg until it curves and goes around a dam. A few kilometres further you take a right turn (The first right after the dam). Follow this road and after passing "The Wigwam" resort on your right look carefully for the "Bergheim" sign, also on your right. If you get to a tar road turning left you have gone a bit too far. This resort offers good camping facilities and there are a few chalets.There is secure parking for day visitors and a short flat path to the sport crags. The natural climbs requires a steep, hot walk or a tricky and damp ascent through the kloof. To access the kloof goto the bottom right corner of the campsite, climb over the fence and follow the path, always keep right until you get into the kloof.

Routes/ Gradings

There are about 82 climbs here with grades varying from 8 to 32. There are several classic sport routes which are relatively hard and steep, but good quality as well as many multi-pitch natural climbs of moderate grade.

Aspect

The kloof is shaded and cool all year round with plenty of running water. You can climb all year round just avoiding the occasional thunderstorm in summer. In the sport crags wasps like to gather in the cracks in winter, but if not provoked never seem to sting.

Notes

This kloof is steep & scenically attractive featuring many natural lines and harder sport routes of grade 24 including a few classic routes such as Faberge and Stormwatch. Access is through the Bergheim camp ground. Park in the campsite. You can walk to a gate and along a road until you get to a good path leading toward the kloof. You can see the kloof directly in front of you as you walk along the path. There is always plenty of water in the kloof. The bolted sport routes are found in the lower areas all below the large pool.

Route guide

  • Lower Fern Route List

Fern Kloof (sport and trad) Lower Area Routes from the LEFT of the crag towards the RIGHT

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. <unknown> 15/5b <unknown> <unknown>
2. <unknown> 17/5c <unknown> <unknown>
3. Crook and Crime 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. S Middlemiss, J Colenso. 1988.
4. Vandals 26/7b 8 Bolts FA. K Smith. 1991. (On natural gear) Starts in the hole by the riverbed. This is the way.
5. <unknown> 27/7b+ <unknown> FA. Wesley Black. 2012. Steps out over the pool. Tend leftwards to finish on Vandals chains.
6. When the Music's Over 27/7b+ 3 Bolts, N FA. K Smith. 1991. Steps out over the pool. Follow 4B leftwards and finish up the crack. Additional gear required.
7. Mr Toad's Wild Ride 26/7b Natural FA. K Smith. 1988. Steep natural crackline just left of Fabergé. Beware of winter wasps.
8. Fabergé 28/7c 7 Bolts FA. R Nattrass. 1990
9. Storm Ova 29/7c+ <unknown> <unknown>
10. Stormwatch 31/8a+ 8 Bolts FA. R Nattrass. 1990.
11. Strong Arm of the Law 24/7a 7 Bolts FA. C Curson.
12. Breaking All The Rules 23/6c+ Natural FA. G Mallory.
13. Lawyers, Guns & Money 27/7b+ 8 Bolts FA. J Colenso & T Rogers
14. <Project> BB. N Margetts. Line links up from TSID to LGM.
15. True Sailing is Dead 25/7a+ 6 Bolts FA. K Smith.
16. The Sultans of Swing 25/7a+, [R] 5 Bolts FA. S Middlemiss.
17. <open project> [A] Takes the black streak right of SOS. Single U-bolt serves as anchor.

SACIN site - Fern kloof

New Routes

[Culled from Forum: http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28905&t=5840 ]

Crouching Cricket Post subject: FernkloofPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 11:37 am

I am heading off to Fernkloof this weekend to sample some of the climbing there and I'm hoping that someone can help with some route info. There is a section of rock either between the lower area and mirror mirror area or just after the mirror mirror area (Been a while so I forgot where exactly it is). There a number of routes on this section of rock that aren't on the route guide; does anyone know info about these climbs?

Heinrich Post subject: Re: FernkloofPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 4:06 pm

There is one addition to the lower section of Fernkloof, a project by Neil Margetts - a link-up between True Sailing is Dead and Lawyers, Guns and Money.

On the Mirror-Mirror wall (Middle sector), there are two "new" routes: Bambi and the Broken Leg 22 is just to the right of Erik Rieman's open-book 26. It follows the rightmost crack and onto the arete. great route. Just right (and around the corner) of Bambi, you will find an unknown and very technical 19 - good warm-up. good route.

On the far left of the Mirror-Mirror section you will find Paul Brouard's ultra-hard Aqualung - this is the leftmost line. Goes at 32 or so. Right of this is Andrew Pedley's project - think it's open, but check with him. Will be VERY hard, in the regions of 32, i guess? to the right of this you'll find the classic Acromax 29, and just right of Acromax there are two new routes - both bolted by Neil. Their crades are in the regions of 24/25. One's name is Lost Ruby (Neil's African Grey escaped when he bolted it...), don't know the other's name. Both are fun routes, not to be under-estimated!

That's about it. Not much more space for new routes, it's filled to the brim!

shorti Post subject: Re: FernkloofPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 4:35 pm

>>Heinrich wrote: >>Just right (and around the corner) of Bambi, you will find an unknown and very technical 19 - good warm-up. good >>route.

It's name is Reflected Sins - also one of Neil's routes if I'm not mistaken.