Fern Kloof (sport and trad)

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Access

Access is via the Bergheim Resort which offers good camping facilities etc. Get onto the R28 highway from Johannesburg or Pretoria and travel west towards Krugersdorp. When the highway gets to a 4-way stop at a Zenex garage turn right towards Tarlton. Follow the road to a T-junction at another Zenex Garage and Oak Tree shop where you turn right. Follow this road until you see a sign to "Bekker Skole", turn left (if you get to a T-junction before this turn you missed it by a few km. Pass "Bekker Skole" and turn right at the next T-junction. Follow this road towards Rustenburg until it curves and goes around a dam. A few kilometres further you take a right turn (The first right after the dam). Follow this road and after passing "The Wigwam" resort on your right look carefully for the "Bergheim" sign, also on your right. If you get to a tar road turning left you have gone a bit too far. This resort offers good camping facilities and there are a few chalets.There is secure parking for day visitors and a short flat path to the sport crags. The natural climbs requires a steep, hot walk or a tricky and damp ascent through the kloof. To access the kloof goto the bottom right corner of the campsite, climb over the fence and follow the path, always keep right until you get into the kloof.

Routes/ Gradings

There are about 82 climbs here with grades varying from 8 to 32. There are several classic sport routes which are relatively hard and steep, but good quality as well as many multi-pitch natural climbs of moderate grade.

Aspect

The kloof is shaded and cool all year round with plenty of running water. You can climb all year round just avoiding the occasional thunderstorm in summer. In the sport crags wasps like to gather in the cracks in winter, but if not provoked never seem to sting.

Notes

This kloof is steep & scenically attractive featuring many natural lines and harder sport routes of grade 24 including a few classic routes such as Faberge and Stormwatch. Access is through the Bergheim camp ground. Park in the campsite. You can walk to a gate and along a road until you get to a good path leading toward the kloof. You can see the kloof directly in front of you as you walk along the path. There is always plenty of water in the kloof. The bolted sport routes are found in the lower areas all below the large pool.

Route guide

Lower Fern Route List

Lower Area Routes from the LEFT of the crag towards the RIGHT

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. <unknown> 15/5b <unknown> <unknown>
2. <unknown> 17/5c <unknown> <unknown>
3. Crook and Crime 24/7a 6 Bolts FA. S Middlemiss, J Colenso. 1988.
4. Vandals 26/7b 8 Bolts FA. K Smith. 1991. (On natural gear) Starts in the hole by the riverbed. This is the way.
5. <unknown> 27/7b+ <unknown> FA. Wesley Black. 2012. Steps out over the pool. Tend leftwards to finish on Vandals chains.
6. When the Music's Over 27/7b+ 3 Bolts, N FA. K Smith. 1991. Steps out over the pool. Follow 4B leftwards and finish up the crack. Additional gear required.
7. Mr Toad's Wild Ride 26/7b Natural FA. K Smith. 1988. Steep natural crackline just left of Fabergé. Beware of winter wasps.
8. Fabergé 28/7c 7 Bolts FA. R Nattrass. 1990
9. Storm Ova 29/7c+ <unknown> FA. D Pinkas.
10. Stormwatch 31/8a+ 8 Bolts FA. R Nattrass. 1990.
11. Strong Arm of the Law 24/7a 7 Bolts FA. C Curson.
12. Breaking All The Rules 23/6c+ Natural FA. G Mallory.
13. Lawyers, Guns & Money 27/7b+ 8 Bolts FA. J Colenso & T Rogers
14. <Project> BB. N Margetts. Line links up from TSID to LGM.
15. True Sailing is Dead 25/7a+ 6 Bolts FA. K Smith.
16. The Sultans of Swing 24/7a, [R] 5 Bolts FA. S Middlemiss.
17. <open project> [A] Takes the black streak right of SOS. Single U-bolt serves as anchor.

Mirror Mirror Area Route List

100m upstream from the Lower Area through the small wade pool. Routes continue upstream to large pool. Mirror Mirror Area Routes from the LEFT towards the RIGHT

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1. Aqualung 32/8b 5 Bolts FA. Paul Brouard. 2000. NB: No top Anchors
2. <open project> BB. A Pedley.
3. Acromax 29/7c+ 5 Bolts FA. G Murray. 1991.
4. Lost Ruby 23/6c+ <unknown> BB. N Margetts
5. Thunderstruck 23/6c+ <unknown> FA. J Orrick, D Margetts, M Seegers. 1991. Permission given to retrobolt.
6. Unknown 22/6c 3 Bolts FA. I Guest.
7. The Favourite Game 23/6c+ <unknown> FA. D Margetts, M Seegers. 1991. Opened on natural gear.
8. F2 Corner 16/5c <unknown> <unknown> Permission given to retrobolt
9. Beautiful Losers 20/6b <unknown> FA. D Margetts. 1991. Permission given to retrobolt.
10. Directly Unknown 26/7b <unknown> FA. J Orrock. 1991. Retrobolted by E Riemann. Starts on boulders above lower pool. Dyno lefwards to finish around the corner.
11. Naked Instincts/Slight Change 25/7a+ 6 Bolts FA. R Nattrass, S Bradshaw (Natural Gear). Retrobolted by A Hüfner (1998). Opened at 24 on gear. Then holds broke.
12. The Energy of Slaves 25/7a+ <unknown> FA. M Seegers, D Margetts. 1992. This climb starts on the steep face above a boulder which is ascended after the pool. Permission given to retrobolt.
13. A Will to Cower 30/8a 9 Bolts FA. Paul Brouard. 2001.
14. Glass Menagerie 27/7b+ 8 Bolts FA. R Nattrass. 1991.
15. Mirror Mirror 27/7b+ 9 Bolts FA. K Smith (Natural gear). 1986. Permission given to retrobolt.
16. The Looking Glass 25/7a+ 10 Bolts FA. P Lazarus. 1991. Permission given to retrobolt.
17. Liquid Glass 25/7a+ <unknown> FA. Eric Riemann. 2003. Starts on the island below Mirror Mirror wall. Climbs the open book.
18. Bambi and the Broken Leg 22/6c <unknown> <unknown>
19. Reflected Sins 19/6a+ <unknown> FA. N Margetts.


Trad RDs for Upper Fern available at

SACIN site - Fern kloof

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