Good Time 22 *****

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Start View the topo on the photograph. The buttress on which this route is situated is a 10 minute walk down to the left of the main Yellowwood wall. Start in a right facing recess at a small tree or start further left and down just to the right of the gulley: this start is steeper climbing but better rock.

  • Pitch 1 : 25m (19) Climb with care up the recess with stemming moves. The climbing is probably only grade 18 and there is protection but the rock is a fragile. Alternatively start further left which is steeper but the rock quality is good. After 4-5 metres step left onto the arête. Continue on good rock for another 3 metres or so. You are now just to the right of the gulley. Step right onto the arête and climbexcellent rock to a stance next to a large block on the right and a yellowwood bush on the left.
  • Pitch 2 : 35m (17 {19 if you are short}) Step off the block and reach high for a rail. (An awkward drop-knee, back-step move is needed if you are vertically challenged.) Rail left a metre or so, hang a sling and crank up. Move up right and climb easily on good rock to a large ledge. (You can stance here but you then cannot see the leader negotiating the rail in the overhang on the next pitch.)
  • Pitch 3 : 10m (22) If you get this right it is easy. Place bomber gear in the rail out left and then rail through to get good excellent flakes on the lip. If you end up lying on your back with a foot out to the right on the overhang it is really only about 21. Stance just the roof on a ledge so that you communicate with the second. The second must reach the flakes on the lip before removing the final gear so as to avoid a prussic experience should he/she fail to do the moves.
  • Pitch 4 20m (15) Climb up right on juggy rock and then tend left to a large ledge. Hide behind a block in the shade if you are already in the sun.
  • Pitch 5 : 55m (19) This is the best 19 pitches ever. long, varied, safe and funky. Climb up to the obvious off-width crack. Put out a small cam on the left and then do a stemming move left of the cam to the rail. Climb up and then step left into the recess. Climb this and continue up right past the large roof. Climb the flake and continue up the obvious line to a stance.
  • Pitch 6 15m 19. Continue directly up – one tricky move – to the large ledge. Stance here if comfy or put in directional on long slings and walk 15mround the corner to the right into the shade and the abseil point.

FA Good Time: C Edelstein, Deon Van Zyl 9 April 2014


Descent

(See Topo on photograph of Divine Time which is also on the WIKI)

Descent is an elegant and relatively safe 4 or 5 abseils. 60m ropes are recommended.

Walk horizontally 60m over blocks then bushes past the gulley and then blocks to find a thread below.

  • 1. Abseil about 15m to a large ledge.
  • 2. Look around at the back of the ledge and find a threaded rap point and biner. Abseil 40m or so and you find a point over a horn kept in place by a rock. It is easier to pull the rope from here.
  • 3. There is another sling point over a horn about 20m lower and a bit to the left. (You can combine abseil 2 and 3 but pulling the rope down is then quite strenuous. What works well is if the first person to descend stays at the first sling point and then sorts out the rope which is usually twisted. Then the rest of the party can combine abseil 2 and 3. And then while they sort out the next point the person who abseiled first can come down on one of the ropes.
  • 4. Abseil about 40m to an obvious ledge system and look to the left past a bush for a threaded rap point with a leaver biner .
  • 5. Abseil about 40m to the ground.

OR use the DOWN TIME Rap Route Or walk all the way round.