Haelhoek Sneeukop Massif - Donkerkloof and Haelhoek

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(Created page with "1. Spire Aloe Ridge 1965 J.H. Graafland, E v d s Lots 1959 A striking feature on which beauty is but skin deep. '''Start:'''The route follows a prominent buttress at the be...")
 
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1. Spire Aloe Ridge 1965
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'''Bella Donna ** F2'''
  
J.H. Graafland, E v d s Lots 1959
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J.H. Graafland, E v d s Lots, W.A. Schoon 1959
  
 
A striking feature on which beauty is but skin deep.
 
A striking feature on which beauty is but skin deep.
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Pitch 3. 18m (E2) Climb the wall at the first obvious break- a steep 4m ramp. Climb to the knife-edge.Scramble 18m to the first band of overhanging rock.
 
Pitch 3. 18m (E2) Climb the wall at the first obvious break- a steep 4m ramp. Climb to the knife-edge.Scramble 18m to the first band of overhanging rock.
  
Pitch 4. 16m (D/E) Climb up the face directly above the knife-edge, bearing slightly right to a large detached block, then continue straight up 6m t a small concealed stance.
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Pitch 4. 16m (D/E) Climb up the face directly above the knife-edge, bearing slightly right to a large detached block, then continue straight up 6m to a small concealed stance.
  
 
Pitch 5. 25m (F2) For 10m ascend the sloping face left of the stance, traverse left to avoid a minor overhang. Now move diagonally right 2m until below a series of stepped overhangs. Escape left by traversing onto the tip of the projecting nose, then straight up 9m in a shallow recess. Step right around the corner to a small stance, which can be spotted when further progress upward seems very hard.  
 
Pitch 5. 25m (F2) For 10m ascend the sloping face left of the stance, traverse left to avoid a minor overhang. Now move diagonally right 2m until below a series of stepped overhangs. Escape left by traversing onto the tip of the projecting nose, then straight up 9m in a shallow recess. Step right around the corner to a small stance, which can be spotted when further progress upward seems very hard.  
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Pitch 11. 30m (F2) Climb the face, working back into the base of the recessed corner that breaks through the overhangs. Continue up the recessed corner to just below a large overhang (there a narrow, bushy ledge veers off left). However, traverse right, around the projecting rib above the recessed corner to a large, concealed stance.  
 
Pitch 11. 30m (F2) Climb the face, working back into the base of the recessed corner that breaks through the overhangs. Continue up the recessed corner to just below a large overhang (there a narrow, bushy ledge veers off left). However, traverse right, around the projecting rib above the recessed corner to a large, concealed stance.  
  
Pitch 12. 9m (D) CLimb the face aove to a big ledge.  
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Pitch 12. 9m (D) Climb the face above to a big ledge.  
  
 
Pitch 13. 30m E2) Move up the rounded face into a recessed corner left of an overhang. Climb the corner, then move left on easy rock to the foot of a long grassy gully.
 
Pitch 13. 30m E2) Move up the rounded face into a recessed corner left of an overhang. Climb the corner, then move left on easy rock to the foot of a long grassy gully.
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'''Descent:''' Go up to the head of the buttress, cross a gully on the left and move onto a ridge which descends, curving towards north. Lower down, move right into a deep water scoured ravine. (which could be used all the way down bus is very bushy). The ridge and the descent to the ravine are beaconed.
 
'''Descent:''' Go up to the head of the buttress, cross a gully on the left and move onto a ridge which descends, curving towards north. Lower down, move right into a deep water scoured ravine. (which could be used all the way down bus is very bushy). The ridge and the descent to the ravine are beaconed.
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'''Spire Aloe Ridge '''
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'''Blockbuster G1 *'''
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D. Hartley, B. Honey, M. Scott. 1966
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A major but scruffy route.
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'''Start:''' This route works its way up the large face beyond the Haelhoek Spire on the left side of Donkerskloof. The Upper part of the face forms the left skyline when viewed from the bend in the road at the bottom of the kloof. In general the route runs from left to right across the lower sections of the face to a large ledge, traverses to the right around the skyline and comes back into sight of the round about two thirds the way up.
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It commences in the trees right of a large patch of scree above a bend in the stream at virtually the lowest point at which the rock joins the scree. There is another beacons right of the start of the route which should be ignored.
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The rock is generally sound, but there are a number of loose blocks that should be treated with care.
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Pitch 1. 36m (E2) Climb a recess 12m past some small trees. Move right 6m,. ascend a subsidary recess and then traverse back to the left. Climb up to a large ledge. Continue left along the ledge to a tree that provides a good anchor.
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Pitch 2. 36m (E2) Slightly left and almost directly above the top of the first pitch, climb the crack for 12m to the base of a large flake. Continue to the right around the base of the flake into a bushy recess and climb it for 19m to a tree.
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Pitch 3. 24m (E2) Continue up the corner for 2m, the diagonally left towards the skyline. After 12m there is a block on the corner (Half of which is loose). From the block climb a short recess and then continue up to a ledge.
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Pitch 4. 30m (D) This pitch starts slightly left of the top of the previous pitch, and leads to the top of the lower section of the climb.
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Pitch 5. Walk 30m right along the large ledge below the main face to a recess.
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Pitch 6. 43m (E2) Climb the recess 8m then move right onto the nose. Climb the nose until the rock eases off and then continue upwards past a number of trees and pushes, to the top of a large block that enables one to get a good view of the next section.
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Pitch 7. 15m (E2) Climb the crack diagonally to reach a stance on the left.
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Pitch 8. 27m (F1) Move up a meter or so from the left edge of the stance, traverse right and continue diagonally upwards (what direction?) for 5m. Climb the face, move slightly left 12m and then traverse right and climb up to a ledge.
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Pitch 9. 12m F1. climb via some thin cracks 6m to a small ledge. An interesting move of the second ledge leads to a broad ledge above.
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Pitch 10. Walk 6m along the ledge to a beg belay.
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Pitch 11. 22m (F2) Just around the corner from the stance climb a crack (past a peg 1.5m up) then climb up a few meters, moving back right. Climb slightly left, passing a small bush on the left. About 3m above the bush traverse left and then climb to a ledge that runs a good way across the face. Traverse left to a small tree.
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Pitch 12. 18m (E2) Traverse 9m left to the corner. Descend 6m, continue left and mantelshelf onto a stance below an overhang.
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Pitch 13. 18m (F3) Climb the face at the back of the stance and then traverse left onto the nose. Climb up and slightly left for 6m to a cubbyhole. Move 5m left, then up to a handrail 6m above, then right to a good stance above the start of the pitch.
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Pitch 14. 12m (F2) Climb the corner above the stance moving left after 6m, Traverse left along the ledge to a tree.
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Pitch 15. 18m (D) Continue left along the ledge and climb an easy recess passing some blocks and small trees.
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Pitch 16. 36m (F3) Climb the slightly overhanging corner above the stance, move left then continue straight 27m to a good stance.
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Pitch 17. 36m (F1) Climb up 6m slightly right of the stance. Traverse left, moving down slightly at the beginning and continue to a small ledge on the skyline. Above this ledge there is a good handrail which is used when traversing around the corner to a bottomless recess. Climb the recess 9m and traverse a short distance to the right to a ledge. Easy climbing up a crack leads to another ledge below an overhanging crack
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Pitch 18. 36m (F3) Climb the overhanging crack 9m then traverse into a shallow recess near the skyline. Continue upwards 18m or so, moving out near the crest of the ridge after the first 6m, then back to the recess. The stance is small. Alternatively, climb the face above the crack and then traverse right. This variation of G2 standard is not recommended.
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Pitch 19. 12m (E2) Continue straight up to a broad ledge.
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Pitch 20. 22m (F2) Climb straight up the recess above the stance. The Crest of the ridge to the right is not recommended as the grips thin out near the top.
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'''Descent:''' Walk tot he head of Donkerskloof via a series of traverses across bushy slopes, or ascend a slope to the vlaktes on the North side of the Haelhoek Summit and across these to come down Mai's Poort. Both descents take several hours.
  
  
2. Bella Donna F2 ** 1959
 
3. Blockbuster G1 * 1966
 
 
4. Central Diedre - Donkerkloof **** Grade G1/M1 A Dick and R Fuggle (FA) 1969
 
4. Central Diedre - Donkerkloof **** Grade G1/M1 A Dick and R Fuggle (FA) 1969
 
5. Flight of the Bats 1977
 
5. Flight of the Bats 1977

Revision as of 23:49, 26 April 2014

Bella Donna ** F2

J.H. Graafland, E v d s Lots, W.A. Schoon 1959

A striking feature on which beauty is but skin deep.

Start:The route follows a prominent buttress at the beginning of Donderkloof. This buttress, on the left side of the kloof, is to the right of a waterfall in a red amphitheater. Walk for about 5 minutes along the path and then strike up the slopes to a grassy shoulder on the right side of the buttress. Scramble for 80m through the intervening rock bands to the base of a prominent chimney where the buttress steepens. Now traverse left onto the crest of the ridge.

Pitch 1. 9m (C) Climb a bushy recess immediately right of the crest of the ridge. A steep, tree filled gully will now be notices slanting up on the left side of the buttress.

Pitch 2. 48m (C/D) Traverse left along a narrow, grass ledge to the base of the gully described above. Ascend the gully. Scramble one or two meters onto a bushy ledge at the foot of a short vertical wall.

Pitch 3. 18m (E2) Climb the wall at the first obvious break- a steep 4m ramp. Climb to the knife-edge.Scramble 18m to the first band of overhanging rock.

Pitch 4. 16m (D/E) Climb up the face directly above the knife-edge, bearing slightly right to a large detached block, then continue straight up 6m to a small concealed stance.

Pitch 5. 25m (F2) For 10m ascend the sloping face left of the stance, traverse left to avoid a minor overhang. Now move diagonally right 2m until below a series of stepped overhangs. Escape left by traversing onto the tip of the projecting nose, then straight up 9m in a shallow recess. Step right around the corner to a small stance, which can be spotted when further progress upward seems very hard.

Pitch 6. 24m (F1) Pull up right to the corner. Ascend the corner 2m until it is possible to traverse right onto an open face. Bear diagonally right up to a grass filled groove which is the stance.

Pitch 7. 20m (E2) Originally the pitch went though the overhang on aid, Instead, traverse right 3m to the end of the overhang, then up and left the the base of a recess and climb the crack to a ledge which leads to a comfortable stance on the left.

Pitch 8. 25m (E2) Avoid the short vertical wall above the stance by climbing diagonally right then traversing left to the foot of a broken face. climb 18m up the face to a stance.

Pitch 9. 16m (D) Start 4m left of the previous pitch. Climb over several blocks and up a steep corner to a good ledge.

Pitch 10. 30m (D/E1)Walk right about 3m, then climb up the face above, bearing diagonally left. Above is a second band of overhangs. Traverse 10m left on easy rock to a small stance beneath a steep face.

Pitch 11. 30m (F2) Climb the face, working back into the base of the recessed corner that breaks through the overhangs. Continue up the recessed corner to just below a large overhang (there a narrow, bushy ledge veers off left). However, traverse right, around the projecting rib above the recessed corner to a large, concealed stance.

Pitch 12. 9m (D) Climb the face above to a big ledge.

Pitch 13. 30m E2) Move up the rounded face into a recessed corner left of an overhang. Climb the corner, then move left on easy rock to the foot of a long grassy gully.

Pitch 14. 30m (C/D) Follow the gully to the top of the Buttress.

Descent: Go up to the head of the buttress, cross a gully on the left and move onto a ridge which descends, curving towards north. Lower down, move right into a deep water scoured ravine. (which could be used all the way down bus is very bushy). The ridge and the descent to the ravine are beaconed.

Spire Aloe Ridge


Blockbuster G1 *

D. Hartley, B. Honey, M. Scott. 1966

A major but scruffy route.

Start: This route works its way up the large face beyond the Haelhoek Spire on the left side of Donkerskloof. The Upper part of the face forms the left skyline when viewed from the bend in the road at the bottom of the kloof. In general the route runs from left to right across the lower sections of the face to a large ledge, traverses to the right around the skyline and comes back into sight of the round about two thirds the way up.

It commences in the trees right of a large patch of scree above a bend in the stream at virtually the lowest point at which the rock joins the scree. There is another beacons right of the start of the route which should be ignored.

The rock is generally sound, but there are a number of loose blocks that should be treated with care.

Pitch 1. 36m (E2) Climb a recess 12m past some small trees. Move right 6m,. ascend a subsidary recess and then traverse back to the left. Climb up to a large ledge. Continue left along the ledge to a tree that provides a good anchor.

Pitch 2. 36m (E2) Slightly left and almost directly above the top of the first pitch, climb the crack for 12m to the base of a large flake. Continue to the right around the base of the flake into a bushy recess and climb it for 19m to a tree.

Pitch 3. 24m (E2) Continue up the corner for 2m, the diagonally left towards the skyline. After 12m there is a block on the corner (Half of which is loose). From the block climb a short recess and then continue up to a ledge.

Pitch 4. 30m (D) This pitch starts slightly left of the top of the previous pitch, and leads to the top of the lower section of the climb.

Pitch 5. Walk 30m right along the large ledge below the main face to a recess.

Pitch 6. 43m (E2) Climb the recess 8m then move right onto the nose. Climb the nose until the rock eases off and then continue upwards past a number of trees and pushes, to the top of a large block that enables one to get a good view of the next section.

Pitch 7. 15m (E2) Climb the crack diagonally to reach a stance on the left.

Pitch 8. 27m (F1) Move up a meter or so from the left edge of the stance, traverse right and continue diagonally upwards (what direction?) for 5m. Climb the face, move slightly left 12m and then traverse right and climb up to a ledge.

Pitch 9. 12m F1. climb via some thin cracks 6m to a small ledge. An interesting move of the second ledge leads to a broad ledge above.

Pitch 10. Walk 6m along the ledge to a beg belay.

Pitch 11. 22m (F2) Just around the corner from the stance climb a crack (past a peg 1.5m up) then climb up a few meters, moving back right. Climb slightly left, passing a small bush on the left. About 3m above the bush traverse left and then climb to a ledge that runs a good way across the face. Traverse left to a small tree.

Pitch 12. 18m (E2) Traverse 9m left to the corner. Descend 6m, continue left and mantelshelf onto a stance below an overhang.

Pitch 13. 18m (F3) Climb the face at the back of the stance and then traverse left onto the nose. Climb up and slightly left for 6m to a cubbyhole. Move 5m left, then up to a handrail 6m above, then right to a good stance above the start of the pitch.

Pitch 14. 12m (F2) Climb the corner above the stance moving left after 6m, Traverse left along the ledge to a tree.

Pitch 15. 18m (D) Continue left along the ledge and climb an easy recess passing some blocks and small trees.

Pitch 16. 36m (F3) Climb the slightly overhanging corner above the stance, move left then continue straight 27m to a good stance.

Pitch 17. 36m (F1) Climb up 6m slightly right of the stance. Traverse left, moving down slightly at the beginning and continue to a small ledge on the skyline. Above this ledge there is a good handrail which is used when traversing around the corner to a bottomless recess. Climb the recess 9m and traverse a short distance to the right to a ledge. Easy climbing up a crack leads to another ledge below an overhanging crack

Pitch 18. 36m (F3) Climb the overhanging crack 9m then traverse into a shallow recess near the skyline. Continue upwards 18m or so, moving out near the crest of the ridge after the first 6m, then back to the recess. The stance is small. Alternatively, climb the face above the crack and then traverse right. This variation of G2 standard is not recommended.

Pitch 19. 12m (E2) Continue straight up to a broad ledge.

Pitch 20. 22m (F2) Climb straight up the recess above the stance. The Crest of the ridge to the right is not recommended as the grips thin out near the top.

Descent: Walk tot he head of Donkerskloof via a series of traverses across bushy slopes, or ascend a slope to the vlaktes on the North side of the Haelhoek Summit and across these to come down Mai's Poort. Both descents take several hours.


4. Central Diedre - Donkerkloof **** Grade G1/M1 A Dick and R Fuggle (FA) 1969 5. Flight of the Bats 1977 6. Haelhoek Spire Frontal (Williams) F2 ** 1965 7. Haelhoek Spire (Schaff) 1947 8. New Dimensions -

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