Difference between revisions of "Hidden Kloof (bouldering, sport and trad)"

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(Hidden Kloof)
(Rules)
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When entering Hidden Kloof, we agreed to comply with the following rules:
 
When entering Hidden Kloof, we agreed to comply with the following rules:
  
*All Entrants must fill out and sign the Indemnity book and pay the access fee
+
*'''All Entrants must fill out and sign the Indemnity book and pay the access fee, currently R30 pp'''
 
*No non MCSA card holding guests are permitted
 
*No non MCSA card holding guests are permitted
 
*Do not pick or disturb any plants
 
*Do not pick or disturb any plants
 +
*When walking in do not tread on the metal pipe
 
*No dogs allowed, No fires allowed, No uneccessary noise
 
*No dogs allowed, No fires allowed, No uneccessary noise
 
*Absolutely no litter of any sort, including toilet paper, all must be carried out
 
*Absolutely no litter of any sort, including toilet paper, all must be carried out

Revision as of 09:12, 23 September 2015

Hidden Kloof

Hidden Kloof access was closed from early 90’s to 2015. Access was negotiated over a period of time by the MCSA. The MCSA’s efforts and the wishes of the landowners should be respected; a transgression of the rules could easily lead to closure which would be utterly awful and unforgivable. Access is to MCSA members and also student members of the Exploratio and WITS climbing club. The Kloof is presently sport climbing with 1-2 trad lines. Bolts on the original lines are too old and rusted to climb on; routes are slowly being rebolted and new lines bolted. All bolts and bolting is handles/supplied by the MCSA. Getting into the kloof is a 20 minute walk then a pretty hairy scramble, a fall from which would be lethal. Not at all suitable for young kids or non-climbers. The kloof is quite open and the west wall faces NE so it gets sun from about 10 to 2 pm. The other side is shady most of day.

Access

Access is still fragile. Phone a friend that has been on site to take you along and show you the ropes.

Rules

When entering Hidden Kloof, we agreed to comply with the following rules:

  • All Entrants must fill out and sign the Indemnity book and pay the access fee, currently R30 pp
  • No non MCSA card holding guests are permitted
  • Do not pick or disturb any plants
  • When walking in do not tread on the metal pipe
  • No dogs allowed, No fires allowed, No uneccessary noise
  • Absolutely no litter of any sort, including toilet paper, all must be carried out
  • Any toiletry activites must be within the assigned area only.
  • All placement of bolts or other fixtures must be arranged through the MCSA
  • No camping/sleeping on the properties
  • All entrants must leave the property before dark

Please report any transgressions to the MCSA Johannesbrg Section: admin@jhb.mcsa.org.za

Bolting

If you want to rebolt or open a new line, please check with Andrew Pedley. When re-bolting a line, don’t assume that the old bolts are in the right place, I have found that they are generally badly positioned. Top rope the line first. Use MCSA/Boven fund supplied kit, or kit approved by MCSA.


Hiddenkloof Route List

Routes described from downstream upward

The kloof has been subdivided into 3 sectors, to allow for future development:

  • Lower Sector of the kloof is the area of entry. The Lower Sector starts at a pool that blocks off access from lower down. There are amazing slab and gentle walls in this area. The Lower area ranges up to the point where the tall section of the kloof is entered. This point is marked by a large stack held up by a massive tree with roots running down to the ground on the true right.
  • Middle Sector of the kloof ranges from the elevated tree, that has its roots extending to the ground, up to the slab ramp marked by the next big tree at the top of the ramp. This sector has both gentle and steep climbing potential.
  • Top Sector is the area above the steep ramp and big tree. This area has tall steep to slab walls on both sides of the kloof.


True Left (West Wall)

True left is the left hand side of the kloof when looking downstream.


The Lower Sector

The Lower Sector of the kloof is the area of entry. The Lower Sector starts at a pool that blocks off access from lower down. There are amazing slab and gentle walls in this area. The Lower area ranges up to the point where the tall section of the kloof is entered. This point is marked by a large stack held up by a massive tree with roots running down to the ground on the true right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
Tsotsi 25/7a+ ReBB: Dirk Smith, 2015. Route begins at a half dead tree, runs up the right of a blocky light orange pink purple flat inclined wall. Sustained and wandering. Pumpy! MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
<Add Name> Has not been reopened. ReBB: Guenther Bargon, 2015. Runs up the left of a blocky light orange pink purple flat inclined wall. Pumpy! MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.

The Middle Sector

The Middle Sector of the kloof ranges from the elevated tree, that has its roots extending to the ground, up to the slab ramp marked by the next big tree at the top of the ramp. This sector has both gentle and steep climbing potential.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
Lost and Found 25/7a+ ReBB: Andew Pedley, 2015. The obvious and stunning leaning groove. Belay off the bolt on the ramp. Feels traddy so even if you climb 30, prepare to struggle. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware
Rising Star 28/7c BB: Andrew Pedley 2015. FA. Andrew Pledley. 2015. Amazing to think this one was hiding for so many years, just like Homo Naledi. It’s big and steep and will blow your mind and your forearms. Starts at the top of the ramp in the Middle Sector. Belay is easiest from the bottom. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
The Vanguard 29/7c+ BB: Ebert Nel. FA: Ebert Nel, 2015. Starts at a base under a jagged stepped roof with three bolts of super sequential powerful climbing into four lead out bolts of very complex sequential technical climbing. Really an amazing sequence:D MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.
<Line of old bolts, needs rebolting>
The Enigma Machine Open Project BB: Ebert Nel. 2015. Five bolts up the left of a dark scoop with 3 lead out bolts to the chains. Amazing moves. Hard. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.

The Top Sector

The Top Sector is the area above the steep ramp and big tree. This area has tall steep to slab walls on both sides of the kloof.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION


True Right (East Wall)

True right is the right hand side of the kloof when looking downstream.


The Lower Sector

The Lower Sector of the kloof is the area of entry. The Lower Sector starts at a pool that blocks off access from lower down. There is amazing slab and gentle walls in this area. The Lower area ranges up to the point where the tall section of the kloof is entered. This point is marked by a large stack held up by a massive tree with roots running down to the ground on the true right.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION

The Middle Sector

The Middle Sector of the kloof ranges from the elevated tree, that has its roots extending to the ground, up to the slab ramp marked by the next big tree at the top of the ramp. This sector has both gentle and steep climbing potential.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
Hide and Seek 20/6b BB: Ebert Nel. FA: Tyron Hopf. 2015. Follows a gulley stepladder up to the 2nd bolt, followed by some crimpy madness and jug hauling for days. Check out the platform above the chains. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.

The Top Sector

The Top Sector is the area above the steep ramp and big tree. This area has tall steep to slab walls on both sides of the kloof.

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION