Kalk Bay

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37 Single Pitch Sport Routes, Grades 4 to 8b 20min walk up to crag.

Contents

Season

Autumn and afternoons. In winter there is water seepage in places and in summer onshore winds make the rock greasy.

Rock

Sandstone. All types of holds but lots of slopers.

Gear

Sport Rack of 8 draws & a 30m rope will do for most routes. Bring more draws and 50m rope for routes at the Treasure Chest. The top rope problems listed here do not require extra gear, however if you wish to explore other problems some slings and locking carabiners as well as a small selection of trad gear will be necessary.

The climbing

This Crag features powerful, short, bolted routes on steep rock, surrounded by some of the best views Cape Town has to offer.

Getting there

Note the old path recommended in 'Western Cape Rock' has grown over. Two other paths have become well trodden by hikers, please use these instead to minimize erosion and damage to plant life.

East side: At the end of Boyes Drive is a cul-de-sac (Godfrey Rd.). Park here and follow the hiking trail up toward the saddle. Near the saddle, after the second switchback where the path goes briefly down hill, look for a path sneaking off left up a short hill towards a large boulder. From the boulder follow the path up the final slope to arrive just east of Neptunes cove.
West side: From Main rd turn into Clovelly avenue then take the right fork up Mountain road. Park at the top of the rise, the path leads up from a concrete driveway. Climb the paved path to just below the saddle then turn right onto an obvious well-trodden path 10metres before the saddle. Follow this between two boulders, past a cave, then just above a mini-gulley take a not so obvious turn-off left towards what looks like two boulders, aiming between them. The left "boulder" turns out to be Mermaid wall.

Kalk Bay crags access map, view from space.jpg

Topos / Routes

Routes are listed from right to left (east to west).

The Upper (Main) Tier of Crags

The Boatyard

Spinning Jenny 20/6b FA Julian Fisher
The route climbs out the left of the large cave east of Dockside crag (no topo).

Dockside

Left Sector

Dockside left sector.jpg

1. Piracy 23/6c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis

2. Stowaway 20/6b FA Ross Suter.
Route ruined by soot from vagrants fire, needs a serious scrub!

3. Wide Ride 24/7a FA Marijus Smigelskis


Right Sector

Dockside right sector (from east).jpeg

Dockside right sector (from west).jpg

1. Talamasca 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis

2. Blood and Gold 20/6b FA Marijus Smigelskis and partner.

3. Lil Fishees 21/6b+ FA Greg Hart

4. Dolphin 23/6c+ FA Dale Posthumus

5. Sushi 25/7a+ FA Dale Posthumus

6. Import Tax 26/7b FA Marijus Smigelskis

Neptunes Cove

Left Sector

This is a good place to warm up by traversing around right of these three routes.

Neptunes cove, left sector.jpg

1. Hang Thang 20/6b FA Greg Hart

2. Cling Thing 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans

3. Kill Bill 23/6c+ FA Greg Hart


Right Sector

Neptunes Cove, Right Sector.jpg

1. Unnamed 22/6c FA Unknown. Starts from the raised ledge right of the cave.

The following top-rope problems are all to the right of the cave starting from a raised ledge. The lines have single rings in place on top to thread your rope through, reach these by climbing up the gully at the left end of the ledge leading leftwards out of the Neptunes Cove cave, then clambering over atop the cliff. Please watch out for the large flake right of (facing the crag) the rings, which is loose - don't stand on it!!! - easy to avoid though.

2. Arete 18

3. Flake right of Arete 19

4. Thin grey face in middle 23

5. Right edge of thin face 21

6. Juggy line right of thin face 16

Espionage 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis, The next bolted line right.

The Needle 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier
Obvious crack a couple of metres to the right of Espionage. Grade needs confirmation.

Oyster Box

Oyster Box.jpg

Catfish to Art of War.jpg

Routes 14 & 15 in the book 'Western Cape Rock' are wrong. Oyster is actually 15m left of these two (see topo above).

1. Oyster 16/5c FA Ross Suter

2. Lurchin' Urchin 24/7a FA Malcolm Gowans. Standing-start on right.

2a. Lurchin' Urchin direct 26/7b FA Paul Schlotveld. Direct sit-start.

3. Open Project 8b/c?

4. Catfish Rising 22/6c FA Tony Lourens

5. Heartbreak 29/7c+ FA Marijus Smigelskis

6. Pocket Rocket 27/7b+ FA Jason Orton

7. The Art of War 32/8b FA Marijus Smigelskis

Sinbad.jpg

1. Sinbad 18/6a FA Ross Suter

Mermaid Wall

This wall faces west and is sheltered from the SE wind.

Mermaid wall.jpg

1. Jack in the Green 22/6c FA Beth Higgins

2. Songs from the Wood 18/6a FA Tony Lourens

3. City Rockers 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. Bolts sponsored by City Rock Gym.

4. Mermaid 16/5c FA Ross Suter

The lower tier crags

K Bay lower tier topo.jpg

Blackbeards Cave

1. Open Project 8c/+? In the left part of the cave.

2. Dark Angel 30/8a FA Marijus Smigelskis.

3. Xses 24/7a FA Greg Hart. Start from cheater stones at second bolt.

3a. Excessive Xses 28/7c FA Marijus Smigelskis. Start from the back of the cave as for Dark Angel.

4. Dickless Tics 24/7a FA Jason Temle-Forbes

5. Space Wasp 26/7b+ FA Marijus Smigelskis. Starts from on top of the Block right of the cave, finish as for Dickless Tics.

6. Sunset Arete 19/6a+ FA Greg Hart. The arete in between Blackbeards Cave and the Treasure Chest.

The Treasure Chest

One can warm up by traversing the base right of Golden eye.

7. Open Project 8b?

8. Golden Eye 30/8a FA Nick Mathews

9. Open Project 8c/+? Pulls through steep overhang on glued holds to join Wysiwig.

10. Wysiwig 25/7a+ FA Paul Schlotveldt. Traverses right edge of overhang then diagonally up leftward.

11. Tetris 24/7a FA Jeremy Samson. Start as for Wysiwig then straight up.

Mini Roof

Approach from west side parking (pic below as seen from parking)
Kalkbay mini roof.jpg Kalkbay ninja warrior.jpg
1. Roofie 23 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier
2. Ninja Warrior 26 (trad) FA Phlip Olivier. Grade needs confirmation.

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