Kasteel Buttress

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Thanks to its famous pass flanking it this buttress offers an easy approach- just follow the signs. Like many Apostle buttresses Kasteel has two facets- West and South Facing, however most of the best routes are on the West.

There are two distinct approaches depending on the routes, and so with time this Wiki might be edited accordingly, but in the Mean while it will be broken as such below.

  Kasteel West Face

These routes are best approached from the Valken/Barrier path.

Castle Rib * F1 or 15

G. Athiros, A. Killick and Miss T. Snijders 1967

Allow plenty of time to find the start.

Start: The route lies up the curved rib which is capped by an overhang, 12m right of Valken Ravine (Right-Hand Route), and to the left of Kasteels Gully.

Pitch 1. 18m (D) "Black Face Pitch." Climb the black face 13m right of Valken Ravine waterfall. Walk left to a corner 5m right of the Right-Hand Route.

Pitch 2. 28m (F1 or 15) Climb the corner to an overhanging flake. Step up onto the flake, then move up to a higher foot rail. Traverse right for 6m and climb s clean face with a tricky finish. walk right for 19m to the next beacon beneath an overhang.

Pitch 3. 30m (E2 or 13) Climb a short distance up a crack beneath the overhang, then diagonally left. Once above the level of the overhang, move right, then climb an easy face.

Pitch 4. 8m (D) Climb the corner directly move to a stance shared with Valken Ravine RH. One is now beneath the prominent bulge on Castle Rib.

Pitch 5. 15m (E2 or 13) A few overhanging moves on the right of the bulge enables on to traverse to a chimney, which is then taken to complete the route.

Kasteels Gully C Route

K. Cameron, F.G. Clarkson and H.E. Walton 1912

"Another popular and well patronized climb. Allows much variation."

Start: Walk up Valken Ravine until a cave/overhang is reached level with the bottom of Barrier Cave. Continue up VR a few meters then walk right onto the wide ledge above the overhang. Walk up to the foot of the subsidiary buttress on the right of VR until directly below a prominent prong of ricks jutting out some 200m above. 3 or 4 nondescript scramble pitches up the gully brings one to move vertical rock. Keep over to the right and climb:

Pitch 1. 12m (C) A vertical crack with excellent holds. scramble left to the foot of the final chimney below prongs.

Pitch 2. 20m (C) climb the chimney on its right wall.

Kasteels Buttress Gully or "B" Route **

F.C. Barwick and G.F. Traverse-Jackson 1907

This route starts on the left side of the Buttress and traverses across the buttress to the right hand side. By Examining the photo and following the obvious, well warn lines you should have no problem following the route.

Kasteel's Buttress North Face *** D

A.F. Bisschop, E.E. Vaughn and Miss D. Windsor. 1931

There are two variations to this route, however the left is so bushy that its not recommended. The right route has steep pitches and good holds, thus the 3 start rating.

Start:the Right route begins close to the bottom of the right edge of the North-Facing wall of the buttress. This is the point where the main face cuts back up towards the ravine. Up the corner is a pea-pod shaped cave, which cannot be seen from Valken, but lies to the left of prominent black streaks.

Pitch 1. 15m (E1 or 13) Climb the left wall then scramble up for 2 rope lengths until the "B" path is reached) Continue over to the right to the skyline and a square recessed corner above the "B" route.

Pitch 2. 21m (D) A delightful face on the left wall of the recess and then traverse right near the top to below a black streak.

Pitch 3. 9m (D) Climb up into the crack for 4m and finish via the face on the right. the top of this route runs close to the "B" route

Pitch 4. 21m (D) Just above ta large detached mass of rock is climbed to a small stance. Continue up the face to a good ledge. This face is exposed and overlooks the Kasteel Poort path.

Pitch 5. Above this face the route scrambles up the crest of the buttress to a short easy face to a similar face. After this, scramble up the ridge to the summit.

Kasteels Pillar * F2 or 15

G. Athiros and M. Scott. 1967

Follows the natural line up the left corner of the "Kasteel".

Start: begin about 15m left of the second pitch of Castle crag, or are the same level of the traverse path across the buttress from the "Band Stand on the KP path to Barrier.

Pitch 1. 15m (E2 or 10) Climb a diagonal recess (above a bush), with the appearance of large flakes leaning out. Pull up on the left, swing right then climb diagonally left. Gain the ledge by pulling between two blocks.

Pitch 2. 15m (E2 or 10) Traverse 6m left, continuing around the corner. Step up in the recess, then pull up around the corner on the right. Climb to a ledge.

Pitch 3. 15m (F2 or 15) There is a beacon on te right of the tree ahead. Climb up a meter or so, then traverse left to climb a recess. An awkward move around a large tongue of rock jammed in a crack leads to a stance above.

Pitch 4. 15m (E2 or 10) Pull out on top of the block on the right. Traverse diagonally right to a gully. Stance left of the gully

Pitch 5. 18m (F1 or 14) From the grey block 4m right of the gully, (and 8m left of Crag), pull up to a face. Traverse left before continuing up. Either proceed delicately left to the corner, before stancing on the ledge above.

Pitch 6. 12m (D) Scramble 6m up to another ledge, then climb the recess on the right to an edge on the right corner.

Pitch 7. 15m (E2 or 10) There is a vertical, flat corner ahead. Pull up and move left to a corner. Move along a ledge to the left into a chimney which leads up to a stance. A direct alternative(F2) is to proceed straight up to a ledge from the corner using a crack.

A short pitch above leads to a final beacon, 12m left of Castle Crag

               Kasteel Poort Approached

These routes are approached by continuing along the KP path rather than taking Valken Ravine. From what I gather the "Band-Stand" is the large pulpit on the corner of the KP path which is a great rest point on that path.

Castle Crag *** F2 or 15

P. O' Neill and B. Russel 1948

Start: Start from the rock band close to the KP path just before the path scrambles to the Band- Stand.

Pitch 1. 10m (D) Climb through the obvious break.after a tricky start into a bottomless chimney, move left onto the face, then up to a short band of "slope."

Pitch 2. 12m (E1 or 11) Cross the slope, (and the traverse path from KP to Barrier), and climb a wide chimney directly above (easiest on the left-side). Climb past a large chock-stone to a narrow ledge before traversing left to a stance.

Pitch 3. 11m (C) Move left to a corner and then climb straight up to a broad ledge.

Pitch 4. 10m (F2 or 15) Above and right are two large blocks. From the top of the right one climb a bottomless recess with a strenuous start. Having reached good holds continue up until one can traverse right and up to a comfortable stance.

Pitch 5. 12. (E2 or 10) 6m right climb the recessed corner above the beacon to a narrow ledge, then walk left to a stance on a large block.

Pitch 6. 12m (E2 or 10) Climb up the face above the block and continue straight to a small stance.

Pitch 7. 10m (E3 or 13) A Delicate traverse right goes to a ledge which leads to the bottom of a 3m corner. Take this to another ledge.

Pitch 8. 18m (E2 or 13) Climb directly above using flakes to a narrow ledge, from where two large cracks continue to the top.

Pitch 9. 10m (E2 or 13) Climb the left crack immediately above the last stance to reach a comfortable stance.

Band Stand Castle Carousal

Castle Laager Castle Premium Castle Rib Castle Turret Consternation Corbel

Kasteels Frontal Kasteels Pillar