Kgale Hill

From South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki
Revision as of 09:52, 13 April 2009 by Carl (Talk | contribs)
(diff) ← Older revision | Latest revision (diff) | Newer revision → (diff)
Jump to: navigation, search

The best climbing area faces the Game City shopping complex (with it’s own defunct climbing wall). You can park in the vast shopping centre car park and then it is a short walk to the base of the cliffs. There are three main areas. There is easy access to the base and the top of these cliffs if you want to set up a top rope. You may need a rigging rope as the nearest suitable anchor points are sometimes a little way back from the top of the cliffs. There are several anchors and bolted routes.

THE BLACK ROCKS. A lower dark band of cliffs which contains the longer climbs and can be seen in the photo to the left.

THE RED ROCKS. a wedge shaped band of red rock above and to the left of the black rocks that can be seen in the photo here.

THE UPPER TIER. This is higher up and to the right of the red and black areas and is the longest walk in.

Kgale.jpg

There is a nesting black eagle on the top of Kgale hill under the mast. These rocks are a long walk in and there is no decent climbing there anyway. So let's leave the eagle in peace.

Getting There

Kgale Hill is on the southern end of Gaborone and is hard to miss.

The Black Rocks

This area is the first reached from the base and has the longest climbs. There is a distinctive triple chin on the righthand buttress. Further right is a gulley with a path up to the red rocks and further right still is another tower of similar coloured rock with more climbing.

Blacktc.jpg

1. GRUFFALO GULLEY 13 (N,A) 20m

To the left of the triple chin area there is a deep recess. There are chains at the top on the right hand side. A more interesting variation is to climb the face to the left to the underside of the overhang before moving into the back of the recess.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2003.

2. CROISSANT BLEU 20 (6B,A) 17m

To the right of the break this is the first line of bolts on the left hand side of the distinctive double chin (it becomes triple further to the right). A slightly sloping start getting steeper with the crux on the distinctive bulge.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

3. BATHTUB BRIM 20 (7B,A) 17m

3m to the right of Croissant Bleu and similar to it with the crux on the bulge again.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

4. PEG ON THE NOSE 18 (N, A) 22m

To the right hand of Bathtub Brim the route goes up the first obvious large crack with a lot of baboon droppings at the base. The crux is at the top of the first crack made harder by the copious amounts of baboon urine covering the rock. After this there are two alternative cracks to the top, both about the same level of difficulty.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Anton Makgetho May 2003.

5. FROTTIOR 23 (9B,A) 24m

To the right of the crack of Peg on the nose. This is one of the longest climbs on Kgale with two crux bulges to get over. Sustained face climbing

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

6. BLACK PUDDING 22 (9B,A) 22m

To the right of Frottior and similar to it.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

7. TRIPLE CHIN 18 (7B,A) 22m

To the right of Black Pudding. Follow the crack up from the base. Near the top trend left under the bulge until you can reach out over the top of it to the chains which remain hidden until you step out.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe October 2005.

8. MICHELIN MAN 17 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Triple Chin straight up the face on the first section aiming for the crack up the second section to the overhang on the third section.

Climbed on top rope only.

9. BUOY BELLY 15 (N,A) 20m

To the right of Michelin Man round the corner in the dead end and the last climb before the gulley with the path up. Straight up the end of the gulley onto a ledge to your right and up sloping rocks to the chains.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP GULLEY 11 (N,A) 12m

Halfway up the ascent gulley on the left hand side there is a smaller gulley in the rock which may be ascended to chains at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

WARMUP SLAB 12 (N,A) 12m

To the right of warm up gulley the sloping slab is a good beginners climb with chains on the block at the top.

First Ascent: Unknown

Cubicle area

Blackright.jpg

7. UNNAMED 21 (TR) 19m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the front of the buttress is a small crack. This climbs straight up the crack. After the initial crack it is easy climbing to the top.

First Ascent: Climbed on top rope only.

PET HEAVEN 21 (TR) 19m

On the face to the left of Pet Cemetery the initial climb to the ledge is fairly easy. The face climbing above is strenuous with the crux on leaving the ledge.

First Ascent: Climbed on top rope only.

8. PET CEMETERY 17 (N, A) 20m

On the separate tower of rock to the right of the gulley is a buttress with a big fig tree on it. On the right hand side of this buttress is a crack all the way to the top going over a ledge midway.

First Ascent: Carl Bauer and Robert Daffe 2002.

9. THE CUBICLE 23 (7B, A) 20m

To the right of Pet Cemetery is a deep recess. The right face of this recess is slightly overhanging and can be climbed without using the face behind as a chimney. Watch the fall onto the face behind in the first half of the climb.

Climbed on top rope only.

THE CAVE 17 (N, A) 20m

Further into the deep recess there is a cave. This can be climbed to the top where it comes out above the surrounding climbs through a hole in the rock.

Climbed on top rope only.

10. HANNIBALS LOBOTOMY 23 (7B, A) 22m

Coming out of the recess on the right side this climb follows the corner over a nose with the crux getting up onto and over the overhanging nose.

First Ascent: Robert Daffe 2005.

11. UNNAMED 23 (TR) 22m

To the right of the arete is an overhanging dish. Starting on the block at the right climb the right side of the dish and then continue to the top.

Climbed on top rope only.

Personal tools
Namespaces
Variants
Actions
Navigation
Editing Tools
Advertisers