Klaasen's Buttress

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Access

The details of how to get here are in the guidebook Cape Peninsula Select by Tony Lourens.
Basically, park at Constantia Nek and walk up Constantia Corner. Just after the Camel turn left and find your way down towards the front of the buttress. Here, a faint trail splits and leads around to the two different ledges on the west face. To get to the Microwave Crag, just where the first path turns right to the higher ledge on the west face, head left to the the first corner-shaped outcrop overlooking Orange Kloof.

Routes

As far we are aware these are new routes, but records for the area are scarce.

Microwave Crag

Small, and good for warming up.

Ultraviolet (19) ***

Follow a left tending line up the face, and near the top move left and up a hand crack. D. Steyn & R. Halsey 17 Feb 2014

Infrared (19) ***

Straight up the centre of the face. D. Steyn & R. Halsey 31 Jan 2014

Microwave.jpg

1. Ultraviolet, 2. Infrared

West Face

The majority of the rock is covered with lichen and not that appealing. However, there is one line that is certainly worth the walk.

Prometheus (26?) *****

Incredibly steep, exposed and satisfying.

The route is located at the northern end of the grassy ledge running across the west face about 20m above the base of the buttress (with the long caves). Where this ledge narrows, the route starts on the right side of an overhang over a rocky platform (that makes a great lunch spot and has super views).

From a block, pull up near a thin, left arching crack. Move up to a finger rail, then left to a narrow shelf. Continue up and left, passing some good holds to a hand rail. Pull through to the next rail and traverse left to about 1m past a projecting prong. Climb the short, steep face to the ledge using excellent pockets. Consensus grading needed.

R. Halsey, 16 Feb 2014


PromRDpic.jpg

Prometheus follows the obvious prow