Difference between revisions of "Klein Winterhoek"

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= How to get there =
 
= How to get there =
  
= Fees & Permits =
+
= Fees, Permits & Access =
 +
 
 +
The original Londt RD from 1921 has been updated by Adam Roff and is provided below.
 +
Access to the Klein Winterhoek and Sneeugat for years '''was''' via the Zeeman’s farm Bergplaas.
 +
Unfortunately after the elder Zeeman died the route through Bergplaas was closed.
 +
Subsequently Adam Roff negotiated access via an adjacent farm.
 +
Please therefore contact Adam Roff at roff.adam@gmail.com  to obtain the current access arrangements, and failing getting hold of Adam then try Mike Scott at scottmj@telkomsa.net
  
 
= Accommodation & Food =
 
= Accommodation & Food =
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FA: Londt and Stokoe, November 1920
 
FA: Londt and Stokoe, November 1920
  
 
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'''Klein Winterhoek Frontal'''
Klein Winterhoek Frontal
+
  
 
FA: George Londt, Frank Berrisford, RS Yates and Stanley Morton, 31 December 1920
 
FA: George Londt, Frank Berrisford, RS Yates and Stanley Morton, 31 December 1920
  
 +
'''Londt’s Klein Winterhoek Frontal route  RD. compiled by Adam Roff'''
  
Left-Hand Arete
+
The route follows the immaculate line of the tapered pillar immediately left of the amphitheatre. This is R of a large groove/gulley that drops down the middle of the face.
 +
 
 +
From Campsite in Kloof follow rough path up then trending up r steeply onto grassy shoulder. Walk up grassy shoulder to the rock. Start Scrambling, heading vaguely up and R for the base of the pillar. There is a broad grassy ledge one rock band below level of base of amphitheatre.  This rock band is the crux of the scramble. Various ways. Probably easiest to traverse to R skyline. You should now be on level with sickle of grass running into base of amphitheatre. (about 1.5 hours from campsite)
 +
 
 +
Scramble a further rope length or so to start of first pitch – a short R facing corner above a little ledge. There may be a beacon.
 +
 
 +
'''1. 50m 14. Up Corner.'''  Traverse L below obvious smooth open book. (Original route goes up the smooth book above – it’s HARD!! They stood on each others’ shoulders). Traverse about 10m L of book, up ramp L then back up diag R on Pockets, then Rails, cracks, then Ledge. Belay above start of pitch.
 +
 
 +
'''2. 40m 14 (Fixed wire above belay is in the wrong place.''' Next corner R is correct. Original route traversed further R to awkward corner – pin. Not recommended) Up and R steep pull into corner, out L then Up to small ledge below Bullseye Overhang.
 +
 
 +
'''3. 50m 14,  Up L of bullseye overhang.''' Then Either up crack step R onto Nose and straight up followed by C grade straight up pitch, or 5m L into corner/groove, up this out L at top. followed by C grade 50m diag R pitch.
 +
Belay at narrow ledge system where rock steepens below clean wide open book.
 +
 
 +
'''4. 50m C diag R pitch or straight up''' depending on what you did for pitch 3
 +
 
 +
'''5. 50m 15 (Spikes Pitch) Up Open Book out R.''' Up L on suspect rock into shallow groove. Up groove till forced out L, up to good long ledge system going left.
 +
 
 +
6'''. 80m ‘C’ (Yates Traverse) Traverse L on ledge system,''' moving up slightly after about a rope length. Pass a beacon, belay on a massive chockstone in a massive chimney. This chimney is part of the groove/gulley system that runs the full length of the face.
 +
 
 +
'''7. 30m 15 Up Bulging  wall L of chimney''' on face holds (tricky) into easy chimney (another one). Up this move L to thin crack up to massive ledge. (walk-off ledge from oceans etc). Next pitch starts on R of bivvy spot.
 +
 
 +
'''8. 60m 15 Up rickety rock on ridge,''' over block down, up past block, up layback, belay on R. Beware nip in tail of this pitch!
 +
 
 +
9'''. 50m ‘C’ scramble to the top.'''
 +
 
 +
'''Descent:''' From summit follow beacons North along top of wall towards Groot Winterhoek. These lead to large grassy gulley which is followed to grass slopes and eventually back to the shoulder you started on. Descent to campsite about 2 hours.
 +
 
 +
 
 +
'''Left-Hand Arete'''
  
 
FA: Hans Graafland and Mike Scott, December 1969
 
FA: Hans Graafland and Mike Scott, December 1969
 +
 +
17 short pitches, grade 16 A2
  
  
The Times They Are A-Changing  
+
'''The Times They Are A-Changing'''
  
 
FA: Dave Cheesmond, Chris Lomax and Greg Lacey, April 1978
 
FA: Dave Cheesmond, Chris Lomax and Greg Lacey, April 1978
  
First route on the amphitheatre, on the right side
+
12 pitches, original grade 20 A2, freed at 21
  
 +
First route on the amphitheatre, on the right side
  
  
Oceans of Fear
+
'''Oceans of Fear'''
  
 
FA: Andrew de Klerk and Greg Lacey, April 1983
 
FA: Andrew de Klerk and Greg Lacey, April 1983
Line 60: Line 97:
 
FFA: Andrew de Klerk and Julie Brugger, 1994
 
FFA: Andrew de Klerk and Julie Brugger, 1994
  
In the centre of the amphitheatre
+
13 pitches, original grade 20 A3, freed at 28
  
 +
'''In the centre of the amphitheatre
  
 
+
Wall of Silence'''
Wall of Silence
+
  
 
FA: Andrew de Klerk (solo), Jan-Feb 1986
 
FA: Andrew de Klerk (solo), Jan-Feb 1986
  
In the centre of the amphitheatre
+
13 pitches, grade 21 A4
  
 +
'''In the centre of the amphitheatre'''
  
  
Children of the Sky
+
'''Children of the Sky'''
  
 
FA: Jeremy Colenso and Jeremy Samson, September 1987
 
FA: Jeremy Colenso and Jeremy Samson, September 1987
  
In the centre of the amphitheatre
+
14 pitches, grade 23 A3
  
 +
'''In the centre of the amphitheatre'''
  
  
Art of Hearts
+
'''Gorillas in the Mist'''
 +
 
 +
FA: Jeremy Colenso and M Reid, 1989
 +
 
 +
about 10 - 12 pitches, grade 17
 +
 
 +
The rib right of The Times They are a-Changing
 +
 
 +
 
 +
'''Art of Hearts'''
  
 
FA: Clinton Martinengo and Joe Mohle, Mar-Apr 2011
 
FA: Clinton Martinengo and Joe Mohle, Mar-Apr 2011
  
In the centre of the amphitheatre
+
grade 25R A3
  
 +
In the centre of the amphitheatre  See this link for an article of the FA - http://www.climbing.co.za/2011/05/art-of-hearts/
  
  
Rapture
+
 
 +
'''Rapture'''
  
 
FA: Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones, March 2012
 
FA: Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones, March 2012
 +
 +
13 pitches, grade 23
  
 
On the left side of the amphitheatre. Starts 100m lower than other routes. Only route to climb the headwall above the escape ledge.
 
On the left side of the amphitheatre. Starts 100m lower than other routes. Only route to climb the headwall above the escape ledge.
  
 +
See this link for info of the FA - http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/06/african-rapture/
  
 
+
'''Rainy Day Ridge'''
Rainy Day Ridge
+
  
 
FA: Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones, April 2012
 
FA: Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones, April 2012
 +
 +
8 pitches, grade 18
  
 
Starts at Camp Roger in the gully next to the stream, ascends the ridge and finishes just below the amphitheatre. Suitable to be combined with the Frontal Route for a long moderate route of about 20 pitches.
 
Starts at Camp Roger in the gully next to the stream, ascends the ridge and finishes just below the amphitheatre. Suitable to be combined with the Frontal Route for a long moderate route of about 20 pitches.
 
+
See this link for more details - http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8426
  
 
== '''Descent''' ==
 
== '''Descent''' ==
  
 
From the summit head north-east along the summit ridge to the nek, alternatively before the nek follow beacons down the face over the ridge for a short-cut into the gully. Descend the gully. Some way down traverse right over a ridge to avoid the waterfall a bit further downstream. Camp site is directly below.
 
From the summit head north-east along the summit ridge to the nek, alternatively before the nek follow beacons down the face over the ridge for a short-cut into the gully. Descend the gully. Some way down traverse right over a ridge to avoid the waterfall a bit further downstream. Camp site is directly below.
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 +
[[File:klein winterhoek route.jpg]]

Latest revision as of 11:40, 1 February 2017

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Klein Winterhoek
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Latitude
Longitude
Climbing Type
Rock Type
Season
ProvinceWestern Cape
Area[[]]





How to get there

Fees, Permits & Access

The original Londt RD from 1921 has been updated by Adam Roff and is provided below. Access to the Klein Winterhoek and Sneeugat for years was via the Zeeman’s farm Bergplaas. Unfortunately after the elder Zeeman died the route through Bergplaas was closed. Subsequently Adam Roff negotiated access via an adjacent farm. Please therefore contact Adam Roff at roff.adam@gmail.com to obtain the current access arrangements, and failing getting hold of Adam then try Mike Scott at scottmj@telkomsa.net

Accommodation & Food

Attractions & Activities

Map

Routes

The mountain is characterized by the prominent frontal ridge that is visible from Cape Town, and by the enormous overhanging amphitheatre on the eastern side of the peak.

The routes on the mountain in chronological order of first ascent are:


Right Hand Ridge (there is no official name of this route around to the right from the amphitheatre)

FA: Londt and Stokoe, November 1920

Klein Winterhoek Frontal

FA: George Londt, Frank Berrisford, RS Yates and Stanley Morton, 31 December 1920

Londt’s Klein Winterhoek Frontal route RD. compiled by Adam Roff

The route follows the immaculate line of the tapered pillar immediately left of the amphitheatre. This is R of a large groove/gulley that drops down the middle of the face.

From Campsite in Kloof follow rough path up then trending up r steeply onto grassy shoulder. Walk up grassy shoulder to the rock. Start Scrambling, heading vaguely up and R for the base of the pillar. There is a broad grassy ledge one rock band below level of base of amphitheatre. This rock band is the crux of the scramble. Various ways. Probably easiest to traverse to R skyline. You should now be on level with sickle of grass running into base of amphitheatre. (about 1.5 hours from campsite)

Scramble a further rope length or so to start of first pitch – a short R facing corner above a little ledge. There may be a beacon.

1. 50m 14. Up Corner. Traverse L below obvious smooth open book. (Original route goes up the smooth book above – it’s HARD!! They stood on each others’ shoulders). Traverse about 10m L of book, up ramp L then back up diag R on Pockets, then Rails, cracks, then Ledge. Belay above start of pitch.

2. 40m 14 (Fixed wire above belay is in the wrong place. Next corner R is correct. Original route traversed further R to awkward corner – pin. Not recommended) Up and R steep pull into corner, out L then Up to small ledge below Bullseye Overhang.

3. 50m 14, Up L of bullseye overhang. Then Either up crack step R onto Nose and straight up followed by C grade straight up pitch, or 5m L into corner/groove, up this out L at top. followed by C grade 50m diag R pitch. Belay at narrow ledge system where rock steepens below clean wide open book.

4. 50m C diag R pitch or straight up depending on what you did for pitch 3

5. 50m 15 (Spikes Pitch) Up Open Book out R. Up L on suspect rock into shallow groove. Up groove till forced out L, up to good long ledge system going left.

6. 80m ‘C’ (Yates Traverse) Traverse L on ledge system, moving up slightly after about a rope length. Pass a beacon, belay on a massive chockstone in a massive chimney. This chimney is part of the groove/gulley system that runs the full length of the face.

7. 30m 15 Up Bulging wall L of chimney on face holds (tricky) into easy chimney (another one). Up this move L to thin crack up to massive ledge. (walk-off ledge from oceans etc). Next pitch starts on R of bivvy spot.

8. 60m 15 Up rickety rock on ridge, over block down, up past block, up layback, belay on R. Beware nip in tail of this pitch!

9. 50m ‘C’ scramble to the top.

Descent: From summit follow beacons North along top of wall towards Groot Winterhoek. These lead to large grassy gulley which is followed to grass slopes and eventually back to the shoulder you started on. Descent to campsite about 2 hours.


Left-Hand Arete

FA: Hans Graafland and Mike Scott, December 1969

17 short pitches, grade 16 A2


The Times They Are A-Changing

FA: Dave Cheesmond, Chris Lomax and Greg Lacey, April 1978

12 pitches, original grade 20 A2, freed at 21

First route on the amphitheatre, on the right side


Oceans of Fear

FA: Andrew de Klerk and Greg Lacey, April 1983

First One-Day ascent: Douw Steyn and Jeremy Colenso, 1992

FFA: Andrew de Klerk and Julie Brugger, 1994

13 pitches, original grade 20 A3, freed at 28

In the centre of the amphitheatre

Wall of Silence

FA: Andrew de Klerk (solo), Jan-Feb 1986

13 pitches, grade 21 A4

In the centre of the amphitheatre


Children of the Sky

FA: Jeremy Colenso and Jeremy Samson, September 1987

14 pitches, grade 23 A3

In the centre of the amphitheatre


Gorillas in the Mist

FA: Jeremy Colenso and M Reid, 1989

about 10 - 12 pitches, grade 17

The rib right of The Times They are a-Changing


Art of Hearts

FA: Clinton Martinengo and Joe Mohle, Mar-Apr 2011

grade 25R A3

In the centre of the amphitheatre See this link for an article of the FA - http://www.climbing.co.za/2011/05/art-of-hearts/


Rapture

FA: Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones, March 2012

13 pitches, grade 23

On the left side of the amphitheatre. Starts 100m lower than other routes. Only route to climb the headwall above the escape ledge.

See this link for info of the FA - http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/06/african-rapture/

Rainy Day Ridge

FA: Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones, April 2012

8 pitches, grade 18

Starts at Camp Roger in the gully next to the stream, ascends the ridge and finishes just below the amphitheatre. Suitable to be combined with the Frontal Route for a long moderate route of about 20 pitches. See this link for more details - http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8426

Descent

From the summit head north-east along the summit ridge to the nek, alternatively before the nek follow beacons down the face over the ridge for a short-cut into the gully. Descend the gully. Some way down traverse right over a ridge to avoid the waterfall a bit further downstream. Camp site is directly below.

Klein winterhoek route.jpg