Difference between revisions of "Langberg"

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(New page: Sport Climbing near Vrede. ±30 routes, grades up to 7c+. Short routes on soft Sandstone. == Best Season == All year round == Gear == Sport Rack & 50m rope == The climbing == The crag...)
 
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Sport Climbing near Vrede. ±30 routes, grades up to 7c+. Short routes on soft Sandstone.
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Sport Climbing near Vrede. +/-30 routes, grades up to 29/7c+. Short routes on soft Sandstone.
  
 
== Best Season ==
 
== Best Season ==
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== References ==
 
== References ==
Route numbers are marked on the rock. The route order is not always left to right as is the norm, use the route numbers. Topos are available from the farm house.
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 +
The routes here are marked on the rock with the route number given. The route order is not always left to right as is the norm, use the route numbers. Topos are available from the farm house.
 +
 
 +
 
 +
 
 +
Braaivleis Dak
 +
 
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME
 +
|GRADE
 +
|RATING
 +
|PROTECTION
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|OPENED INFO
 +
|-
 +
|1.
 +
|BOERE WORS
 +
|16
 +
|*
 +
|[A]
 +
|Route only has top anchors. This slab route is possibly only a 14.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|2.
 +
|KOEDOEDROL
 +
|25
 +
|****
 +
|[5D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|3.
 +
|RUGBY BOOT
 +
|26
 +
|**
 +
|[5D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|4.
 +
|TEKKIE VEETER
 +
|22
 +
|***
 +
|[4D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
 
 +
The Windtunnel
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME
 +
|GRADE
 +
|RATING
 +
|PROTECTION
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|OPENED INFO
 +
|-
 +
|5.
 +
|CYCLONE TRACY
 +
|17
 +
|**
 +
|[5D,A]
 +
|Some thin moves on this route.
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|6.
 +
|PETER PAN CAN
 +
|15
 +
|**
 +
|[5D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|7.
 +
|GUST
 +
|12
 +
|**
 +
|[5D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|8.
 +
|ROOM WITH A VIEW
 +
|20
 +
|**
 +
|[5D,A]
 +
|Reachy crux.
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|9.
 +
|HURRICANE HILDA
 +
|18
 +
|***
 +
|[6D,A]
 +
|Has the same top anchors as THUNDER PLUNDER.
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|10.
 +
|THUNDER PLUNDER
 +
|19
 +
|**
 +
|[6D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
Juicy Fruity Area
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME
 +
|GRADE
 +
|RATING
 +
|PROTECTION
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|OPENED INFO
 +
|-
 +
|11.
 +
|BANANA PEEL
 +
|12
 +
|*
 +
|[5B,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|11.
 +
|UNTIL THE FRUIT LADY SINGS
 +
|15
 +
|
 +
|[5D,A]
 +
|Follow the vague crack line between HAIRY KIWI and BANANA PEEL. Use the bolts on HAIRY KIWI. Only use holds between the two bolt lines.
 +
|First Ascent: Apr 1999 Schalk Cronjé
 +
|-
 +
|12.
 +
|HAIRY KIWI
 +
|13
 +
|*
 +
|[5D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|13.
 +
|PEACHES AND CREAM
 +
|21
 +
|**
 +
|[5D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|14.
 +
|STRAWBERRY'S
 +
|24
 +
|****
 +
|[6D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|15.
 +
|BLACK GRAPE
 +
|29
 +
|****
 +
|[6D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|16.
 +
|APPLE OF EDEN
 +
|21
 +
|***
 +
|[5D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|17.
 +
|WET-WET FIG
 +
|28
 +
|****
 +
|[6D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|18.
 +
|MANGO TANGO
 +
|27
 +
|****
 +
|[6D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
Viking's Rock
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME
 +
|GRADE
 +
|RATING
 +
|PROTECTION
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|OPENED INFO
 +
|-
 +
|19.
 +
|VIKI THE VIKING
 +
|15
 +
|*
 +
|[4D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|20.
 +
|RUM BARREL
 +
|16
 +
|*
 +
|[4D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|21.
 +
|SUNSHINE ISLAND
 +
|17
 +
|*
 +
|[A]
 +
|Top anchors only.
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|22.
 +
|OPEN PROJECT
 +
|27+
 +
|
 +
|[6D,A]
 +
|
 +
|Open project bolted in 1997, it was called SHIT IN THE SEA!
 +
|-
 +
|23.
 +
|WALKING THE PLANK
 +
|23+
 +
|***
 +
|[6D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|24.
 +
|HAGAR THE VERSKRIKLIKE
 +
|26
 +
|**
 +
|[5D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
Amazonian Rock
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME
 +
|GRADE
 +
|RATING
 +
|PROTECTION
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|OPENED INFO
 +
|-
 +
|25.
 +
|PIRANA
 +
|19
 +
|***
 +
|[6D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|26.
 +
|ANNACONDA
 +
|22
 +
|***
 +
|[6D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|27.
 +
|HANNABAL THE CANNABAL
 +
|27
 +
|**
 +
|[6D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|28.
 +
|CRY OF THE WILD
 +
|21
 +
|**
 +
|[6D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|-
 +
|29.
 +
|LET THE RIVER RUN
 +
|20
 +
|**
 +
|[6D,A]
 +
|
 +
|First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
 +
|}
 +
 
 +
 
 +
Saddle up Rock
 +
 
 +
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"
 +
|-
 +
|#
 +
|ROUTE NAME
 +
|GRADE
 +
|RATING
 +
|PROTECTION
 +
|OPENED INFO
 +
|DESCRIPTION
 +
|-
 +
|30.
 +
|UNKNOWN
 +
|14
 +
|
 +
|[5D,A]
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|-
 +
|31.
 +
|UNKNOWN
 +
|19
 +
|
 +
|[6D,A]
 +
|
 +
|
 +
|}

Revision as of 20:53, 19 June 2013

Sport Climbing near Vrede. +/-30 routes, grades up to 29/7c+. Short routes on soft Sandstone.

Best Season

All year round

Gear

Sport Rack & 50m rope

The climbing

The crags are situated on a farm and are all bolted, mostly short lines. There are just over 30 routes graded 12 to 29 or so. The soft sandstone rock tends to be quite soft and chunks can often break off. It is wise to use a helmet for belaying, especially on newer routes or when opening routes.

Getting there

The crags are situated on the farm Langberg about 10km out of Vrede. From the N3 you can get onto the R103 either from Villiers or just out of Warden. After Vrede on the R34 follow the signs to Memel. About 9-10km further on this road you should see a colourful farm stall, just after this take the first farm road to the left marked "WGP Wessels - Koefontein". Drive down the road and keep left when it forks. Drive to the farm house.

Food and accommodation

There is a well stocked house with cutlery, plates, cooking equipment, fridge etc. for about R40 per person, per night. The house sleeps about 10. Booking is esssential, please call Jacana Trails on (012) 346-3550. There is a Spar supermarket in the town of Vrede. The area also offers some hiking trails and mountain biking.

References

The routes here are marked on the rock with the route number given. The route order is not always left to right as is the norm, use the route numbers. Topos are available from the farm house.


Braaivleis Dak

# ROUTE NAME GRADE RATING PROTECTION DESCRIPTION OPENED INFO
1. BOERE WORS 16 * [A] Route only has top anchors. This slab route is possibly only a 14.
2. KOEDOEDROL 25 **** [5D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
3. RUGBY BOOT 26 ** [5D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
4. TEKKIE VEETER 22 *** [4D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel


The Windtunnel

# ROUTE NAME GRADE RATING PROTECTION DESCRIPTION OPENED INFO
5. CYCLONE TRACY 17 ** [5D,A] Some thin moves on this route. First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
6. PETER PAN CAN 15 ** [5D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
7. GUST 12 ** [5D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
8. ROOM WITH A VIEW 20 ** [5D,A] Reachy crux. First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
9. HURRICANE HILDA 18 *** [6D,A] Has the same top anchors as THUNDER PLUNDER. First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
10. THUNDER PLUNDER 19 ** [6D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel

Juicy Fruity Area

# ROUTE NAME GRADE RATING PROTECTION DESCRIPTION OPENED INFO
11. BANANA PEEL 12 * [5B,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
11. UNTIL THE FRUIT LADY SINGS 15 [5D,A] Follow the vague crack line between HAIRY KIWI and BANANA PEEL. Use the bolts on HAIRY KIWI. Only use holds between the two bolt lines. First Ascent: Apr 1999 Schalk Cronjé
12. HAIRY KIWI 13 * [5D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
13. PEACHES AND CREAM 21 ** [5D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
14. STRAWBERRY'S 24 **** [6D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
15. BLACK GRAPE 29 **** [6D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
16. APPLE OF EDEN 21 *** [5D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
17. WET-WET FIG 28 **** [6D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
18. MANGO TANGO 27 **** [6D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel

Viking's Rock

# ROUTE NAME GRADE RATING PROTECTION DESCRIPTION OPENED INFO
19. VIKI THE VIKING 15 * [4D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
20. RUM BARREL 16 * [4D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
21. SUNSHINE ISLAND 17 * [A] Top anchors only.
22. OPEN PROJECT 27+ [6D,A] Open project bolted in 1997, it was called SHIT IN THE SEA!
23. WALKING THE PLANK 23+ *** [6D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
24. HAGAR THE VERSKRIKLIKE 26 ** [5D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel

Amazonian Rock

# ROUTE NAME GRADE RATING PROTECTION DESCRIPTION OPENED INFO
25. PIRANA 19 *** [6D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
26. ANNACONDA 22 *** [6D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
27. HANNABAL THE CANNABAL 27 ** [6D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
28. CRY OF THE WILD 21 ** [6D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel
29. LET THE RIVER RUN 20 ** [6D,A] First Ascent: 1996 Stephan Swanepoel


Saddle up Rock

# ROUTE NAME GRADE RATING PROTECTION OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
30. UNKNOWN 14 [5D,A]
31. UNKNOWN 19 [6D,A]