Difference between revisions of "Lekker Time 16 ****+"
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Revision as of 11:43, 20 August 2014
Start View the topo on the photograph. The route traverses in from the right and the start is marked with a cairn.
- Pitch 1 : 40m (15)
Climb up a shallow left facing corner to a ledge. Walk right a few metres and climb steep, juggy rock tending slightly left. Belay on a small ledge below a short steep orange face.
- Pitch 2 : 20m (19) Climb the short face and find your way more or less straight up to a left facing recess. A small nut protects the next move. Climb up under the small overhang and search for a small but good hold that you use with your left hand to step round right onto the arete. Continue to a ledge with blocks under a large overhang. (The "small hold" move can be avoided by fighting your way past a yellow wood tree on the left.)
- Pitch 3 25 (16) Climb up and head right to the arete. Climb till you are level with the overhang. If you can't or won't fist jamb you are going to find the next move hard. Then continue more easily to a large ledge and belay at the base of a massive block. You are now on top of the pillar.
- Pitch 4 : 25m (16) Move your belay by walking around to the back of the block on its right. Climb up and head diagonally left first on cleanish grey rock but heading for the darker lichen covered rock. Find somewhere to stance after about 25m as pitch 4 and 5 combined is 65m.
- Pitch 5 : 40m (16) Climb carefully on gnarly lichen covered rock (but positive holds) heading left to an obvious ledge. Belay below a right facing corner system.
- Pitch 6 : 45m (16) Climb 3m or so carefully on juggy holds but swing left 2 metres or so before the overlap above. Going straight up is harder but there is a medium size cam placement above you that you may want to use before stepping left. Once you place the cam reverse a move or two and then swing left. Continue up clean steep juggy cracks to belay before the final overhangs on a large block.
- Pitch 7 : 30m (16) Climb up and right to the notch. Crank up and then move left to a point where the overhang is at its smallest. Be careful about using extenders on your pro so as to not incur drag. Climb up and then climb up and right to the skyline on slabby rock. Continue up the crack and find your way to a grassy ledge.
FA: C Edelstein, Deon Van Zyl April 2014
(See Topo on photograph)
Descent is an elegant and relatively safe 4 or 5 abseils.
Walk horizontally right and a bit down for about 100m along a ledge system capped by an overhang. Continue over the Divine Time Buttress and then over the Tea Time Buttress. Stay at that level all the way. At the far end (right side) of the Tea Time Buttress is a slightly exposed "step-down" and then carefully ease around the exposed corner. Walk about 15m to a level area of gray rock. Look for the first abseil point on the far side.
- 1. Abseil about 15m to a large ledge using one rope only.
- 2. Look around at the back of the ledge and find a threaded rap point and biner. Abseil 25m, and you will find a thread point. (Abseil 1 and 2 can be combined but it does not save time as the ropes need to be sorted out)
- 3. Abseil about 40m and look for a sling point over a horn about 10m to the left.
- 4. Abseil about 40m to an obvious ledge system and look to the left past a bush for a threaded rap point with a leaver biner .
- 5. Abseil about 45m to the ground.