Difference between revisions of "Lekker Time 16 *****"
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Revision as of 09:29, 23 May 2014
- Pitch 1 : 35m (13) Refer to photo topo and start up the front of the buttress. Climb up the flakes in the small left facing corner to a ledge at 4m and then walk right 3m to the right and climb the juggy arête for a few metres to then continue up tending left on clean grey rock for about 35m to a small ledge below a steep section with yellow rock.
- Pitch 2 : 25m (14 or 16) Climb the steep short yellow face on jugs. (Good pro at 2m) and then continue another 25m to the stance on a large at the base of a deep recess below an overhang. Just before the stance at 20m there is a short steep right facing corner (good rock 1 pro and grade 16) that can be avoided by thrutching past the Yellowwood tree on the left.
- Pitch 3 : 30m (16) Climb up right onto the flake and then onto the arête. Continue easily (if you know how to do a fist jamb) up to a large ledge with a massive boulder on top of the pillar.
- Pitch 4 and 5 65m (15) Climb with care up the grey lichen covered face gently tending left. Gear is excellent and the holds positive but beware the odd loose rock and lichen covered hold. You will have to break up this pitch so make a belay after about 10 or 15m before it gets too steep or simul- climb depending on the length of your ropes. Stance on a good ledge below a juggy appearing right facing corner with flakes.
- Pitch 6 : 30m (16)Climb up the corner for 3 or 4m and then step out left using the flakes. Climb easily on clean grey rock using the cracks on the left. Continue to a ledge and stance on a comfy block.
- Pitch 7 : 30m (16) Climb up the slabby grey rock for 4m or so tending right. Place good gear and then crank up through the overlaps to a rail below the roof. (You can place a big cam above your head in the crack in the roof but add a sling to avoid drag). Then, with some cunning, move back left and up till you are more or less above the stance (much easier than it looks but stay low on the rail and use small foot holds; do not be tempted to hang on the obvious grey flakes above the rail). Move up onto the dark grey ramp and diagonal up right under the big square overhang to the sky-line. Climb the east crack. Continue easily up right to the grassy walk-off stance.
FA "Lekker Time" (The word "Lekker" is a South African colloquialism which means "Cool": C Edelstein, Deon Van Zyl May 2014 Comments:
This route is around 200m of climbing with no "scrambling" - this is a real treat for an easy route. So it has much more real climbing than say Smallblaar ridge, and the frontal route of Du Toit's, Milner and Klein Winterhoek and even Exposure in F.
The approach, descent and general rock quality is better than Exposure in F. Experienced trad climbers will do it in around 4 to 5 hours. Beginner climbers with grade 16 at their limit will probably find it intimidating and challenging in places especially the start of pitch three, the start of pitch 6 and finding their way through the overlaps on pitch 7. It is in the shade longer than any of Main Wall routes but that means it can be cold in the winter months before the sun warms you up. It is very well protected but still "Yellowwood". At the time of this writing it had only two ascents and on both ascents the odd hold broke off so beware. It has not been "climbed into condition yet". However, the rock is mostly excellent!
(See Topo on photograph of Divine Time which is also on the WIKI)
Descent is an elegant and relatively safe 4 or 5 abseils. 60m ropes are recommended.
Walk right about a rope length to the Divine Time Buttress, and then another rope length along the top of the Tea Time Buttress to round the corner to the abseil route. 4-5 abseils get you down.
- 1. Abseil about 15m to a large ledge.
- 2. Look around at the back of the ledge and find a threaded rap point and biner. Abseil 40m or so and you find a point over a horn kept in place by a rock. It is easier to pull the rope from here.
- 3. There is another sling point over a horn about 20m lower and a bit to the left. (You can combine abseil 2 and 3 but pulling the rope down is then quite strenuous. What works well is if the first person to descend stays at the first sling point and then sorts out the rope which is usually twisted. Then the rest of the party can combine abseil 2 and 3. And then while they sort out the next point the person who abseiled first can come down on one of the ropes.
- 4. Abseil about 35m to an obvious ledge system and look to the left past a bush for a threaded rap point with a leaver biner .
- 5. Abseil about 40m to the ground.
OR use the DOWN TIME Rap Route Or walk all the way round.
Start View the topo on the photograph. The route traverses in from the right and the start is marked with a cairn at the base of the obvious supporting pillar.