Difference between revisions of "Lion's Head"

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(Clifton Sector)
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FA: Dave Mercer, A. Wienand 2007
 
FA: Dave Mercer, A. Wienand 2007
  
==== COLD WAR (16) ====
+
==== Cold War (16) ====
 
20m Natural - This unremarkable route lies a few metres to the left of Power Struggle. Ascend the broken recess to the left of the prominent overhanging prow. Towards the top a slightly harder variation to the right ascends a clean and steep corner. Finish at the Power Struggle platform.
 
20m Natural - This unremarkable route lies a few metres to the left of Power Struggle. Ascend the broken recess to the left of the prominent overhanging prow. Towards the top a slightly harder variation to the right ascends a clean and steep corner. Finish at the Power Struggle platform.
 
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008. Variation by David Mercer, 8 February 2008.
 
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008. Variation by David Mercer, 8 February 2008.
  
==== POWER STRUGGLE (23) ====
+
==== Power Struggle (23) ====
 
20m Natural - This interesting and quite hard route ascends the face directly below the only prominent overhanging prow, clipping two pitons en route. Move directly up and through two sets of overhangs on strenuous and gymnastic moves using large cams for protection. End at a nice platform.
 
20m Natural - This interesting and quite hard route ascends the face directly below the only prominent overhanging prow, clipping two pitons en route. Move directly up and through two sets of overhangs on strenuous and gymnastic moves using large cams for protection. End at a nice platform.
 
FA: Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008
 
FA: Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008
  
==== KALASHNIKOV (18) ====
+
==== Kalashnikov (18) ====
 
20m Natural - This good route lies five metres to the right of Power Struggle and forms a straight line on the side of the prominent overhanging nose. With a tricky start through a small overhang ascend the face directly below the right side of the prominent overhanging prow. Halfway up step left onto the prow and ascend the shallow recess clipping two pitons on the steep top section to finish at the Power Struggle platform.
 
20m Natural - This good route lies five metres to the right of Power Struggle and forms a straight line on the side of the prominent overhanging nose. With a tricky start through a small overhang ascend the face directly below the right side of the prominent overhanging prow. Halfway up step left onto the prow and ascend the shallow recess clipping two pitons on the steep top section to finish at the Power Struggle platform.
 
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008
 
FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008
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FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, August 2011
 
FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, August 2011
  
 +
==== The Craving 20m (18) **** ====
 +
Start behind a large dead tree to the right of the low roof to the right of Luvely Jubbly. 
 +
Climb the corner, then layback to the base of the top crack. Climb this (tricky) to the top.
 +
Great route!
 +
FA: Jan Fischer, Tony Lourens, 6/11/2011
  
[[Image:Lions_Head_-_4_new_roues.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|POWER STRUGGLE-POLITICAL SOLUTION AREA]]
+
==== Plonker’s Paradise 20m (14) *** ====
 +
Start up the next break to the right of The Craving.
 +
Climb the corner, then tend right to the base of a crack. Layback up this to the top.
 +
FA: Tony Lourens, Jan Fischer, 6/11/2011
  
[[Image:lions_head_power_sector.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|POWER STRUGGLE AREA]]
+
[[Image:Power struggle nov 2011.jpg|1000px|thumb|Power Struggle Area - image by Tony Lourens]]
  
 +
[[Image:Lions_Head_-_4_new_roues.jpg|600px|thumb|centre|Power Struggle-Political Solution Area]]
  
==== POLITICAL SOLUTION (16) ====
+
 
 +
==== Political Solution (16) ====
 
20m Natural [Photo 5] - This route lies about midway between Power Struggle and the large pines at the first hiking path chains. It is easily observed from the car park as it is the crack between the appealing orange face to its left and a black face to its right. This nondescript route has one redeeming feature - it gives a great close up view of the orange face that offers a hard climber an excellent line (This line was opened by Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03 - Ayoba [22]). The route has a committing lead as the first gear is about 10 metres up. Ascend the open book formed by the orange and black faces into an incomplete crack. Move directly up to a tricky finish onto the ledge above. Belay from the large boulders.
 
20m Natural [Photo 5] - This route lies about midway between Power Struggle and the large pines at the first hiking path chains. It is easily observed from the car park as it is the crack between the appealing orange face to its left and a black face to its right. This nondescript route has one redeeming feature - it gives a great close up view of the orange face that offers a hard climber an excellent line (This line was opened by Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03 - Ayoba [22]). The route has a committing lead as the first gear is about 10 metres up. Ascend the open book formed by the orange and black faces into an incomplete crack. Move directly up to a tricky finish onto the ledge above. Belay from the large boulders.
 
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer & Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008
 
FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer & Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008
  
==== AYOBA (22) ====
+
==== Ayoba (22) ====
 
20m Natural [Photo 4] - Starts as per POLITICAL SOLUTION.
 
20m Natural [Photo 4] - Starts as per POLITICAL SOLUTION.
 
After 5m break diagonally left over the blank face to the far left rails.
 
After 5m break diagonally left over the blank face to the far left rails.
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FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03
 
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03
  
==== FEATHERED DELIGHT (16) ====
+
==== Feathered Delight (16) ====
 
20m Natural [Photo 3] - {Detailed Description to Follow}
 
20m Natural [Photo 3] - {Detailed Description to Follow}
 
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03
 
FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03
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FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03
 
FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03
  
==== WINDY BLOCK (14) ====
+
==== Windy Block (14) ====
 
20m Natural [Photo 1] - 10m Right of Kalashnikov.
 
20m Natural [Photo 1] - 10m Right of Kalashnikov.
 
{Detailed Description to Follow}
 
{Detailed Description to Follow}
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<br>FA: Guy Paterson-Jones, 6 April 2011
 
<br>FA: Guy Paterson-Jones, 6 April 2011
  
==== JOHNNY CACHE (22/23)====
+
==== Johnny Cache (22/23)====
 
Directly inbetween Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce.
 
Directly inbetween Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce.
 
Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top.
 
Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top.
 
FA: Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009
 
FA: Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009
  
==== JOHNNY CACHE WIMP-OUT (18)====
+
==== Johnny Cache Wimp-out (18)====
 
As for Johnny Cache but bypass the roof to the right, rejoining directly above.
 
As for Johnny Cache but bypass the roof to the right, rejoining directly above.
 
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009
 
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009
  
==== FELIX (19)====
+
==== Felix (19)====
 
A few metres right of Kitty-Cat is a fairly big coffin roof a few metres off the ground. The route heads up and through this roof then up slabs and faces to the top.  
 
A few metres right of Kitty-Cat is a fairly big coffin roof a few metres off the ground. The route heads up and through this roof then up slabs and faces to the top.  
 
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009
 
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009
  
==== SCRATCH POLE (15)====
+
==== Scratch Pole (15)====
 
Immediately to the right of Felix is an obvious recess. The route proceeds directly up this fault to the top.
 
Immediately to the right of Felix is an obvious recess. The route proceeds directly up this fault to the top.
 
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009
 
FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

Revision as of 12:43, 16 November 2011

General info

There are two crags on Lion's Head, one is Granite and the other is Sandstone. The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part), while the granite climbing is on the huge Huguenot Slab, a short distance above the houses of Fresnaye/Bantry Bay and facing the sea and Robben Island.

There are some single pitch sport routes on the granite, but mostly they are multi-pitch trad routes. Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in to the granite is about 15 minutes and to the sandstone about 25 minutes.

Guide book

A Climber's Guide to Lion's Head, David Mercer, 2008.


Getting there

Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camp's Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area if you want to climb on the sandstone crags. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is it.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards (south-west). You will be on a good path, when you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite.

Food and accommodation

Nothing there mate.

Notes

Note that some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 meter rope, always put a knot in the end of the rope). A visiting Scottish climber lost his life due to this aspect. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.


Lion's Head Granite

Getting there

Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay, take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house.

To get to the Granite continue driving along the road for another kilometre or so until you come up the small Muslim Kramat. This is a little white building with a domed roof. Park in this area. From this spot walk towards the Atlantic Ocean then turn left so you're walking towards Lion's Head but heading a little seawards. You will be on a good path. When you walk past the wood and concrete bench, look to the right for a small path which traverses across (aim for the Bluegum trees) to reach the Granite. The walk-in takes about 15 minutes.

Notes

Some of the sport routes on the granite require a 60 metre rope. Always put a knot in the end of the rope; a visiting Scottish climber died because he failed to do this. There are both sport and trad routes at the granite. The really good routes are trad.

Routes

Popular routes:

  • Silhouette Crack /14 Natural
  • Millions /19 Natural
  • Heart of Darkness /23 Natural
  • Huguenot Crag /18 Natural
  • Tea Trolley Crack /17 Natural
  • Scratch /17 Natural
  • De Bruin Damage /19 Natural
  • Teatime is Over 7a/24 1B
  • Heart of Darkness 6c/23 7B
  • Free at Last 6c+/24 7B
  • Jono Fisher's Project 5+/18 8B
  • Return of the Edi 6c/23 8B

New routes

  • Raincheck 15 R/X (N)

Climb the face exactly between the hand crack of Huguenot Wall and the thin crack of the Huguenot Wall variation, directly to the bolted stance. (I am sure this pitch has probably been top-roped from the anchor before but not recorded as a 'lead' route that I am aware of.) Listed for sake of completion, there is no pro.
FA: R.Halsey (solo) Aug 2010

  • Itch Factor 19R (N)

The blunt arete between Tea-Trolley Crack and Daylight Robbery.
Start in the gulley near a small tree and scramble up over blocks. Follow a short right-tending crack that ends in a bulge. Delicately balance left and up into the next crack, which leads up to a large flake. Continue straight up arete and easy runout to stance on small platform (medium cams). Scramble to top.
FA: R.Halsey 4/10/2010

  • White Knuckle Wafer 19R (N)

Start a few meters right of Knuckleduster. Scramble up and delicately climb the right side of the fragile flake to an undercling. Traverse ~1m left (psychological micro nuts possible) and then straight up face to top. A fall just before topping out would be very serious.
FA: R.Halsey 13/10/2010

Encore Boulder


Located below the Circular walking route overlooking the Clifton beaches

  • On Cord 16 (N)

A fun link-up that starts up the chimney on the Northern side of the boulder. At the rail (about half height), make a scenic traverse towards Camps Bay until you reach the edge of the enormous flake. Straight up this and friction slab to the old anchor (home made hangers).
R. Halsey 29/3/2011

Lion's Head Sandstone

The sandstone climbing is on the concentric rings of rock at the top of the mountain (the Lion's Head part).

Climbing on the sandstone is all trad, with a mix of single pitch and multi-pitch routes, depending on the bands, ledges, vegetation and rock quality. The walk-in is about 25 minutes.

Getting there

Drive up Kloof Nek Road from Cape Town centre. At the intersection at the top where you can turn left to Table Mountain or continue down to Camps Bay. Take a right turn onto the Lion's Head/Signal Hill Road. Drive up the steep road. After about a kilometre the road flattens and you come to the first big parking area that also has a wooden guard house. This is the parking area. You will notice a steep dirt track with a boom heading up the mountain. This is your path.

New Routes

Clifton Sector


Asteroid 22/6c (N)

Single pitch variation right of the Gendarme. Climb Astronaut P1 to the ledge but rather than heading left up the corner crack, blast straight up the steep face above with a powerful crux dead point. At the bush on the next little ledge step ~1m left and then straight up to the abseil anchor.
FA: R.Halsey & J. Hajos 21/02/2011

Lion Sedge 21/6b (N)

Single pitch just right of Blueberry Hill. Start up a short face directly below a steep crack, which leads to a prominent sharp arete. Climb the arete until a ledge where one can scramble off right to the tree abseil.
FA: R. Halsey 07/10/11

Simbarama 21/6b (N)

Single pitch just right of Simba Serendipity P2 (which follows the line to the left of the roof). Climb straight up to the middle on the long thin overhang (can stand on a ledge to the right). Pull through roof to thin rail (aliens useful) and up excellent crack. Climb the central of three columns stemming left at one stage to reach a rail. Either scramble off to the right or abseil from tree 5m to the right.
FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

Feel Ion 23/6c (N)

Start 5m left of Juggernaut P2. Straight up to small ledge. Move right into short, bottomless corner (tricky) and then straight up face and steep prow to ledge. Small cam useful for the crux.
FA: R. Halsey 18/05/11

Night Puff 21/6b (N)

Start 3m left of Juggernaut P2. Use a short, undercut face to gain the rail. Tend left and up through a steep blocky section to below a roof. Pull straight through the roof just right of the crack (sneaky undercling) to a left leaning ramp and short open book above. Easy ground up to ledge.
FA: R.Halsey & M. Griffiths 17/3/2011

Simbarama2.jpg
From left: Simbarama (21), Feel Ion (23) and Night Puff (21)
.


Mane Course 25/7a+ (N)

Single pitch located on the Gendarme level vegetated band, near the start of Cat's Pyjamas.
Start up a short crack and then a short face to first roof - pull through (tricky) to a rest below the second roof. Hard moves at the lip lead leftward to a rail and then up to a small ledge with a bush. Up easily to big ledge. Either walk off to the right or abseil from tree 5m to the left.
Concensus grading needed, maybe 26.

FA: R. Halsey 05/11/10

MainCourse.jpg
Mane Course 25/26 (N)
The line just to the right is In Progress (R. Halsey)

Godsend 22/6b+ (N)

The project listed in the guide book on pg 51.
Start about 7m right of Mane Course and climb straight up to a good break in the slanted roof. Stretch or dyno to a flake (which flexes but seems solid enough) on the lip, tend slightly right then straight up easily to big ledge.
Concensus grading needed - probably harder if you are short.

FFA: R. Halsey 04/12/10

Power Struggle Area

An area on the lowest and largest band on upper Lion's Head facing Table Mountain. At the Camps Bay end is the large Wally's Cave. Most easily approached by taking the standard route up the mountain to the first chains at the large pines. Then take the signposted Recommended Route towards Camps Bay. Ten metres before reaching the crest overlooking Camps Bay head downslope to the top of the face and abseil down 20 metres. (Used to be called Wally’s Cave Sector).

Heatwave 25m (12) **

FA: Dave Mercer, A. Wienand 2007

Cold War (16)

20m Natural - This unremarkable route lies a few metres to the left of Power Struggle. Ascend the broken recess to the left of the prominent overhanging prow. Towards the top a slightly harder variation to the right ascends a clean and steep corner. Finish at the Power Struggle platform. FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008. Variation by David Mercer, 8 February 2008.

Power Struggle (23)

20m Natural - This interesting and quite hard route ascends the face directly below the only prominent overhanging prow, clipping two pitons en route. Move directly up and through two sets of overhangs on strenuous and gymnastic moves using large cams for protection. End at a nice platform. FA: Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

Kalashnikov (18)

20m Natural - This good route lies five metres to the right of Power Struggle and forms a straight line on the side of the prominent overhanging nose. With a tricky start through a small overhang ascend the face directly below the right side of the prominent overhanging prow. Halfway up step left onto the prow and ascend the shallow recess clipping two pitons on the steep top section to finish at the Power Struggle platform. FA: Alan Ross & Hilton Davies, 5 February 2008

Heavy Breather 25m (16) ***

FA: Dave Mercer, C. Turvey July 2007

Windy Block 20m (14)

FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

Name to Come 20m (15) ***

FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

The Inspirer 20m (16) ***

Start at a grey easy looking face. Climb the face to a ledge. Continue up to a brown bulgy section, then move slightly left to the base of a corner. Layback and stem up the corner to the top. FA: Jan Fischer, Riaan Vorster, Tony Lourens, 24/11/2011

Feathered Delight 20m (16) ***

FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

Uncle Albert 20m (15) ***

Start beneath an undercut, clean white face with two cracks running up it. A strenuous, but well protected start leads to some crack climbing. Continue up and slight left up clean rock to the top. FA: Willie Koen, Tony Lourens, 2010

Rodney 20m (16) ***

Start just around the corner to the right of Uncle Albert and to the left of a flakey crack. A bouldery (and slightly runout) start up the smooth brown face leads to a roof. Layback through the roof and continue up, keeping more or less on the crest of the blunt arête, to the top. Great climbing. Variation: Instead of the bouldery face in the beginning, the flakey crack on the right can be climbed, then move left at the roof to carry on through the layback. This is easier, with plenty of gear, but the flakes sound a little hollow. FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, Jan Fischer, 24/11/2011

Silke 25m (12) **

Start to the right of a block roughly midway between Rodney and Ayoba. Climb on top of the block then climb diagonally right across the ledgey wall, past some loose blocks, to gain a deep crack on the right. Climb this to the top. FA: Riaan Vorster, Warren Mayers, Tony Lourens, August 2011

Ayoba 20m (22)

FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

Political Solution 20m (16)

FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer, Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

Luvely Jubbly 20m (17) ****

Start on a block beneath a prominent roof to the right of the black rock to the right of Political Solution. Step off the block and up to the roof. Pull through on the right on good holds past two perfect rails. Move up the blunt seam, then continue up clean rock to the top. Awesome route! FA: Tony Lourens, Riaan Vorster, August 2011

The Craving 20m (18) ****

Start behind a large dead tree to the right of the low roof to the right of Luvely Jubbly. Climb the corner, then layback to the base of the top crack. Climb this (tricky) to the top. Great route! FA: Jan Fischer, Tony Lourens, 6/11/2011

Plonker’s Paradise 20m (14) ***

Start up the next break to the right of The Craving. Climb the corner, then tend right to the base of a crack. Layback up this to the top. FA: Tony Lourens, Jan Fischer, 6/11/2011

Power Struggle Area - image by Tony Lourens
Power Struggle-Political Solution Area


Political Solution (16)

20m Natural [Photo 5] - This route lies about midway between Power Struggle and the large pines at the first hiking path chains. It is easily observed from the car park as it is the crack between the appealing orange face to its left and a black face to its right. This nondescript route has one redeeming feature - it gives a great close up view of the orange face that offers a hard climber an excellent line (This line was opened by Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03 - Ayoba [22]). The route has a committing lead as the first gear is about 10 metres up. Ascend the open book formed by the orange and black faces into an incomplete crack. Move directly up to a tricky finish onto the ledge above. Belay from the large boulders. FA: Karl Hayden, Lawrence 'Batch' Batchelor, David Mercer & Hilton Davies, 8 February 2008

Ayoba (22)

20m Natural [Photo 4] - Starts as per POLITICAL SOLUTION. After 5m break diagonally left over the blank face to the far left rails. Follow the thin crack to the top. FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

Feathered Delight (16)

20m Natural [Photo 3] - {Detailed Description to Follow} FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

{Name to follow} (15)

20m Natural [Photo 2] - {Detailed Description to Follow} FA: Phlip Olivier, 2010/07/03

Windy Block (14)

20m Natural [Photo 1] - 10m Right of Kalashnikov. {Detailed Description to Follow} FA: Johann Papendorf, 2010/07/03

Geo-Cache Sector

Superstition (22R)

A meter right of the route After Taxes is a juggy crack. Climb this, pull through a small overhang and head straight through the middle of the somewhat blank-looking face above.
NOTE: This is a bold route to lead. Small cams recommended.
FA: Guy Paterson-Jones, 6 April 2011

Johnny Cache (22/23)

Directly inbetween Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce. Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top. FA: Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

Johnny Cache Wimp-out (18)

As for Johnny Cache but bypass the roof to the right, rejoining directly above. FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

Felix (19)

A few metres right of Kitty-Cat is a fairly big coffin roof a few metres off the ground. The route heads up and through this roof then up slabs and faces to the top. FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

Scratch Pole (15)

Immediately to the right of Felix is an obvious recess. The route proceeds directly up this fault to the top. FA: Steve Pinfield & Hilton Davies, 11 February 2009

Bender Blender 22/6b+ (N)

The arête right of Junkie and Juicehead. Climb the face directly below the arete, at the roof traverse 1m left and then follow the arched, undercling crack to the arete. Straight to the top.
FA: R.Halsey 19/08/2011

Bender.jpg
Bender Blender (22)
.

Cash Connection 19/6a (N)

Start a metre left of Orphan of the Road and climb up to a deep, horizontal slot. Tend slightly left toward the steep, reddish rock higher up, and then straight up.
FA: R.Halsey 26/08/2011

Grit-Slide 24R/7a (N)

Climbs the fairly blank, orange wall right of Orphan of the Road. Start near the centre of the face, pull up to a rail and traverse 1m left. Follow a narrow crack to a pocket, traverse right on crimps and then up to the vague crack above.
Note: A slider-nut can be placed just above the pocket, but it is marginal and so does not eliminate the possibility of a ground fall from the end of the crux sequence.
FA: R.Halsey 27/08/2011

Gritsliderd.jpg
Cash Connection (19) and Grit-Slide (24R)
.