- 1 El Matador 19
- 2 I Shot The Sheriff 22
- 3 Capital Offence 23
- 4 The Quiver (25/26) ***
- 5 Archer's Paradox (24/25) ***
- 6 A Sudden Loss Of Cabin Pressure 27
- 7 Direct Pressure 28/29
- 8 Moonlight Direct 23
- 9 Manoeuvres by Sunlight 23
- 10 Left Hall-G1/2 on Lower (Arrow) Butress
- 11 Delhi Belly 22
- 12 Passage to India (23)
- 13 The Goa Squeezer (23)
- 14 Mumbai Express (23)
- 15 Fingerlocking Good Direct (19)
- 16 Satyagraha (22)
- 17 Finality (21)***
- 18 Fun Factory (24)***
- 19 The Contortion Mist (~25)***
- 20 Bubbles and Brew (21) ***
- 21 Six by Six (22) ***
- 22 Cherry on Top (17)***
El Matador 19
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain
A fairly direct route up the centre of the Bullshoot Prow, blasting straight through the traverses of Bullshoot. Takes in some steepish climbing, breaking through two roofs, including the intimidating-looking double tier roof near the top of pitch 3. Good climbing with excellent gear all the way.
Start: About 20 metres to the left of Bullshoot, at a short slit beneath a ledge with double blocks on it.
Pitch 1 20m 15: Climb the slit and stand on top of the double blocks. Step off right onto the face and climb more-or-less straight up, pulling through some small overlaps on the way, to reach a big ledge.
Pitch 2 15m 17: Slightly to the right of where pitch 1 ends is a short undercut layback slit. Climb up to the right of this to a ledge. Step slightly left and climb the short steepish face to gain a long protruding block. Step off the right end of the block and swing across the slightly undercut wall to a good foothold beneath a small roof. Pull through this on excellent layaways for the left hand and a good pocket for the right, to gain easier ground and a small but good stance up and off to the right.
Pitch 1 and 2 can quite easily be combined into a single 35m pitch
Pitch 3 20m 19: Move up the flaky fault to the base of a corner/groove (crossing Bullshoot). Pull awkwardly into this and continue up (still awkwardly) till able to stand more comfortably on a shelf on the left. Move up steeply, but on fairly good holds till able to mantleshelf onto a long platform. Move higher (crossing Bullshoot again), using a good jutting prong, to below the big roof. Pull up to the left on a good rail beneath the lip of the roof and break through using the huge flake system above. Continue more easily to the big ledge above.
Descent: Walk of to the left into Africa Ravine and down this to the base of the route.
FA: Tony Lourens, Willie Koen 11 Oct 2015
I Shot The Sheriff 22
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain
This climb is on the Left Side of Arrow Buttress. The extreme left end has the prominent Bullshoot Buttress that faces into Africa Ravine. To the right of this buttress is an expansive, highly-featured wall. Access this route by scrambling 5m up the vegetated recess between the Bullshoot Buttress and the expansive wall then walk right on a big ledge.
Pitch 1 20m 20: Above the ledge is a brown wall capped by a roof. Head slightly leftwards up the brown wall to get into the recess that is the left of the wall. Do a crank up the recess then head out left onto the sharp, grey arête. Climb the arête then pull through some overlaps to get to a stance.Climb the slit and stand on top of the double blocks. Step off right onto the face and climb more-or-less straight up, pulling through some small overlaps on the way, to reach a big ledge.
Pitch 2 20m 22: Head up the sloping recess towards the enormous roof for a few metres then rail out right for a couple of metres. Head straight up for a few metres on nice, technical terrain, then at a level higher than the enormous roof move left to get into the recessed corner system. Rail out left for a couple of metres on the dramatic undercut wall then up and back right for a metre to get into an undercut, shallow recess. Pull some hard, very thin moves up and then to the right to get onto easier ground around the corner. Climb up to a small ledge.Slightly to the right of where pitch 1 ends is a short undercut layback slit. Climb up to the right of this to a ledge. Step slightly left and climb the short steepish face to gain a long protruding block. Step off the right end of the block and swing across the slightly undercut wall to a good foothold beneath a small roof. Pull through this on excellent layaways for the left hand and a good pocket for the right, to gain easier ground and a small but good stance up and off to the right.
Pitch 3 20m 22: Rail right for a few metres and then climb the steep, rightwards leaning crack for a few metres. Exit left onto a ledge. Climb a clean recess and up to a stance with some fixed gear. Abseil off.
FA: Tinie Versfeld, Charles Standing, Ross Suter and Hilton Davies 29 October 2017
Capital Offence 23
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain
This climb is on the Left Side of Arrow Buttress. The extreme left end has the prominent Bullshoot Buttress that faces into Africa Ravine. To the right of this buttress is an expansive, highly-featured wall. Access this route by scambling 5m up the vegetated recess between the Bullshoot Buttress and the expansive wall then walk right on a big ledge. The route is a few metres beyond I Shot The Sheriff.
Pitch 1 20m 17: Above the ledge is a brown wall capped by a roof. Start towards the right hand end. Head up the brown wall to reach the roof a couple of metres from the right end of it. Rail out to the right. Round the corner of the roof and go up and slightly left. Climb some overlaps and steep rock to reach a ledge.
Pitch 2 20m 19: Head up and rightwards up a series of corners then straight up to the roof. Continue straight through the roof and up to a ledge.
Pitch 3 20m 23: Step up then rail left for a few metres on a dramatic undercut wall streaked with black water marks. When the angle eases head straight up for a couple of metres to a little prong, then up towards the right on tiny edges. Round the overhang on the right and go up through overlaps. Do a tenuous move to get established on a slab. Head up and left to a stance and fixed gear. Abseil off.Rail right for a few metres and then climb the steep, rightwards leaning crack for a few metres. Exit left onto a ledge. Climb a clean recess and up to a stance with some fixed gear. Abseil off.
FA: Tinie Versfeld, Charles Standing, Ross Suter and Hilton Davies 4 November 2017
The Quiver (25/26) ***
The crux pitch is good with interesting, technical moves and a sustained crux section. Would probably be a tough onsight for the grade. Consensus grading needed.
Start ~6m to the right of the long vegetated recess of Robin Hood.
Pitch 1. 15m (17) Follow a recess that has a wide vertical crack formed by a flake inside. Continue over some easy ground to a bulge with a roof on the left. Pull through the v shaped break on the right of the roof and then continue easily up and left, passing a tree, to a good ledge.
Pitch 2. 30m (25/26) Pull onto the wall where there is a good jug about 2m up. Continue up fairly straight, past a massive, leaning flake in a wide recess. At the small roof, pull up and right to a narrow ledge. Step back left and up a scoop to an overlap. Traverse ~1.5m left and make some tricky moves up though this overlap and then through the narrowest section of the next overlap. Traverse left across a sloping ramp to a break between the next lower overlap on the left and a higher one on the right. A hard, technical series of moves leads up and right to the final, narrow overlap (green Alien or equivalent useful). Crank through on the right side of this to gain an intermittent vertical seem. Continue up this and the blunt arête to the right until a ledge is reached. Step left to a great stance on top of a large, flat boulder below the apex of the triangular roof at the top of the crag.
Pitch 3. 15m (17) Head straight up from the left side of the stance through some blocky terrain to the roof. Traverse ~1m right around the front of a small nose and then up to a grassy ledge. Step left and head up diagonally left for an airy finish on the apex of the prow, then straight up the big ledge at the top.
FA: R. Halsey & M. Penso (Feb 2018)
Archer's Paradox (24/25) ***
It has a warm up, a burly pitch, a technical pitch and a nice slab to finish. Consensus grading needed.
Start ~5m to the left of William Tell, underneath the left side of an overhang a few meters up.
Pitch 1. 20m (15) Traverse the left under a loose looking block, on the left side of the buttress and then head up to a horizontal break below the vertical crack in the whitish face. Follow the crack then easily to the ledge. Move a few meters left to a stance.
Pitch 2. 20m (23/24) On the wall above the roof is a large layback feature just above a rail. Climb up to the roof about 1m right of this feature. Using the long undercling in the roof, make a long move to good edge, and then to the rail. Traverse left and then follow the large layback, past a tricky face to a break. Use the left slanting crack to gain the next rail and move ~1m right and then up to a stance at a wide rail a few meters below the bulge.
Pitch 3. 15m (24/25) Head up and left to a horizontal break at a point ~4m left of the big black streak on Shot to the Heart. Head up the steep, undulating face following the grey and yellow water streaks passing one rail (finger size cams) to another rail where the angle eases. Continue up to the left of the thin, vertical crack to the the large ledge.the
Pitch 4. 15m (15) Take the left most water streak from the ledge to the top and an abseil point around two trees (as of Feb 2018)
For Pitch 2, the starting move through the roof is likely to be harder for shorter folks. It should be possible to pull through 2-3m right where the rail is closer and then do a pumpy traverse left.
FA: R. Halsey & C. Standing (Feb 2018)
The Quiver in white, Archer's Paradox in blue. Original photo from Cape Peninsula Select by Tony Lourens (with permission)
A Sudden Loss Of Cabin Pressure 27
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain
Starts on the same ledge as for Manoeuvres By Moonlight (MBM) about 10m left of that route and climbs up trending slightly rightwards towards the prominent, large, overhanging nose above.
Pitch 1 12m 27:
Start just right of a large boulder with a jagged top edge. Use a flake on the wall to get to the roof, step left, and reach back into the rail in the roof behind you. Move out along the rail then reach right to the lip of the roof below an open book (fixed nut). Climb to the rail above and move right across the open book to a jam. Pull straight up onto the face and open book above. Stance above this at a threaded sling.
Gear: Beware of the large, jagged boulder. Place some cams at the base of the roof both left and right of the line to protect the first few moves until established in the roof.
Pitch 2 15m 23:
Move 3m right towards a small corner. Climb this and then through a small bulge to reach the MBM rail. Traverse 1m right along the rail and climb straight up the obvious layback flake. Continue through a short, smooth, bulging face/corner and up 5m to a good ledge.
Pitch 3 20m 12:
Scramble right and a little up below the large, overhanging nose to a good stance about 5m below and right of the nose (just down and right from a thin, balancing block).
Pitch 4 20m 24:
Climb up the block to a rail below a roof. Traverse left until it is possible to pull up into the corner on the right hand side of the nose. Rail left onto the exposed nose and climb the airy face and arete. Continue up to the top of the nose.
Descent: Either scramble up and walk off right or abseil directly down off a fixed point (small tree, 60m ropes) back to the starting ledge.
FA: Mark Seuring and Douw Steyn (2012)
Direct Pressure 28/29
An obvious direct version to the first pitch of Cabin Pressure: Start as for Cabin Pressure and climb straight up through the roof and over the slopy shelf joining Cabin Pressure again at the higher rail.
A short boulder problem with good gear and clean falls. Consensus grading needed. I think it's about the same or maybe a grade harder than Cabin Pressure's 1st pitch (definitely harder moves, but shorter and less fiddly with gear).
FA: Phlip Olivier (26 Jan 2013)
Moonlight Direct 23
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain
Start: From India Ravine traverse left under Arrow Buttress on the left for about 70m to get to the start of Fraser’s Variation. About 20m further along come to a prominent blocky pinnacle that stands away from the face. This pinnacle is the start of the route. This route takes its name from the excellent traversing route Manoeuvres by Moonlight, through which it cuts a steep, sustained and direct line in improbable situations.
Start: At the front of the blocky pinnacle.
Pitch 1 30m 17:
Climb up the front of the blocky pinnacle to its flat top. Walk across to the face and head up smooth rock to reach a big ledge with huge overhanging roof. Belay 6m to the left where a seam leads up to the roof that is 3 or 4m above the ground.
Pitch 2 10m 22:
A handrail runs rightwards underneath the roof and ends in a break through the overhang on the right. Ease up the face at the back then rail out right using half a dozen cams to prevent ground fall potential. The rail is unrelenting with poor foot placements. At the break head up and slightly right on steep rock to reach a small ledge with a good rail on the left for making a hanging stance. It is necessary to keep the pitch short to prevent a possible ground fall for the second.
Pitch 3 30m 23:
Head directly up to the break in the first roof above. Move up and right through the break to reach a disappointing rail below the Manoeuvres by Moonlight rail. Continue up to Manoeuvres by Moonlight (excellent sharp rail) and trending right go through a few more overlaps. Pull through on small holds to get established on the vertical wall above. Head up and slightly left to reach a disappointing rail again. Overcome the bulge to get onto easy ground leading up to a good ledge below the next big roof.
Pitch 4 20m 22:
Off to the right is a huge overhanging nose that protrudes far out from the buttress. Head off to the right for 3 or 4 metres to reach a gully. Move up into the gully for 2m then using a decent rail head out right over space. Place two good large cams at the end of the rail! Using small edges, a small vertical fingertips lock and tiny flakes move up the overhanging wall to eventually reach a good rail to place gear (Need a strong-head day). Proceed directly up easy ground, about grade 19, to top out on the nose at a good ledge with a small tree.
Use the small tree to rappel off. Two 60m ropes get the party to the ground.
First ascent: Hilton Davies and Bruce Daniel, 19 March 2010
Manoeuvres by Sunlight 23
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain
This climb is on the Right Side of Arrow Buttress and is a variation on Manoeuvres by Moonlight. As such it climbs the first three pitches of Manoeuvres by Moonlight then replaces pitch four with two new and more exciting pitches.
Pitch 1 to Pitch 3 65m 20:
As per first three pitches of Manoeuvres by Moonlight.
Pitch 4 17m 23:
Get onto the ledge at the base of the recess. Climb the thin wall to the right, trending rightwards, up to a rail. Head around the corner to the right under an overhang and climb up to a ledge to stance.
Pitch 5 15m 20:
Start up the recess then rail left for a few metres. Climb straight up to stance on the big walk-off ledge.
First ascent: Guy Paterson-Jones and Hilton Davies, 13 October 2016
Left Hall-G1/2 on Lower (Arrow) Butress
Earlier ascents of this or similar lines have occurred but have not been written up. The route provides an nice straight line up steep rock. Unfortunatley while the second pitch provides fun climbing, the rock is rather vegitated. Hopefully more ascents will clean it up some what. The third pitch makes up for it, with great moves on an exposed wall. Start in obvious recess 10m right of the start of Fraser’s Frontal.
Pitch 1 20m F2:
Starting at the wide crack, climb straight up clean rock, crossing two ledges to a stance beneath a roof, 4m left of the first stance on Fraser’s
Pitch 2 40m F3:
Climb up to the roof, passing it on the right. Climb approx. 10m up the (mossy) wall above to a ledge. Above & to the right is a small overhang capped by a nose. This nose can be passed on the either side but it’s more fun on the right. Climb diagonally right up the mossy wall until one reaches a prominent rail level with the 2nd stance of Frasers. Travers right to the same stance.
Pitch 3 35m G1/2:
Above is a shallow scoop running up the centre of the obviuos flat wall. A third of the way up the wall is a prominent arrow head flake (more solid than it looks !) Start beneath the flake, climbing diagonally leftward for about 5m before moving rightwards up to the flake. Climb onto the flake & then straight up the scoop above on small holds. Some small Camalots – around C3 # 0 – are very useful for this section. The wall is topped by a roof split by a hanging open book. Pull strenously up this to the top.
Simon Larsen & Ant Hall 2005
Delhi Belly 22
A new route that is climbs an obvious line on Venster buttress between Bombay Chicken & Quacks. Note: Small cams are necessary!
Start: Two meters to the right of Quacks is a blunt Arête undercut by a small roof on the right.
Pitch 1: 20m 22.
Using the small under cling below the roof pull up onto the sloping holds above. Precariously pop up into the shallow corner system & rail above (crux.) Climb directly up to under the roof above. (Bombay Duck climbs 1m left of the roof) Pull through the roof and into the open book above (peg) and climb directly up to stance on some small ledges, a few meters above. Alternative: 23m 20. Climb the first 8m of Bombay duck and then move up and climb into the open book corner above. Traverse left under the roof and then climb up to the stance above. (This could be Bombay Chicken but not sure.)
Pitch 2: 18m 21.
Follow the ramp up and left to below an undercut, stepped corner. Climb the layback crack up onto the bulging recess (crux.) Climb this to the large ledge above. This stance is shared with Bombay Duck and India Chicken.
Pitch 3: 16m 20.
From the large ledge start as you would for the final pitch of Bombay Duck. Move diagonally up right into the large rail above. Rail right and pull through the roof and up into the recess above. Climb up on the right of the arête then traverse right towards the abseil anchors. (Beware of large loose block at the abseil anchors.)
FA: Malcolm Gowans, Bryant Roux & Cormac Tooze. December 2012.
Passage to India (23)
This climb is on the Left Side of Venster Buttress. The route is a few metres to the left of Bombay Duck. The notable feature of the Left Side of Venster Buttress is the series of big triangular roofs 50m up. This route climbs directly up to the roofs and then through them.
Pitch 1 12m 23:
Start off a chest freezer-sized boulder. Crank up the undercut white wall, slightly on the left, then up a tricky brownish section to reach a ledge. Step up on the right and continue up for a couple of metres to stance in the corner. This works best for rope management.
Pitch 2 18m 16:
Continue up the corner and then straight up grey walls and through small roofs. Stance on a ledge to the right where the rock becomes brown.
Pitch 3 18m 23:
On the left of the brown wall climb the crack then crank up and left onto grey rock. Get up onto a big ledge. Step up to reach the first huge roof. Rail right then go up a steep break to a rail. Go a little right then over the bulge to the next rail. And then to the next rail which is half a metre above the highest big roof. Rail out left over the void to the very tip of the huge triangular roof. Step up and continue for a few metres to a good semi-hanging stance.
Easy climbing leads up to the Bombay Duck abseil bolts 10m up to the right. Abseil off.
FA: Karl Hayden and Hilton Davies, 4 November 2016
The Goa Squeezer (23)
A long ~50m direct link up with some short new crux sections.
Start up Bombay Duck but pull straight through the first overhang (just right of Wind Me Up). Continue straight up the face to the ledge (optional stance). Start up P2 of Quacks, but then climb the middle of the brown face between the Bombay Duck recess and the Quacks crack. At the big rail (where Bombay Duck traverse right), step 1m left and pull through the bulge. Step right over the the next smooth bulge (just right of the Passage to India crack). At rail at the roof, step left and crank up the blank looking face with a thin, intermittent seem (at this point Passage to India traverses hard left over space and Quacks tackles the left leaning overhanging corner to the right). Continue straight up past a grey flake to the top.
FA: R. Halsey and F. Walters Oct 2018
Mumbai Express (23)
This climb is on the Left Side of Venster Buttress. The route is a few metres to the right of Bombay Duck, Quacks, Delhi Belly and Bombay Chicken.
Pitch 1 25m 23:
A few metres along the ledge to the right of the start of Bombay Duck is a big block that obstructs the walk. Start on top of this block where there is the most obvious placement for a big cam (Camalot no.1) in the underside of the first overlap. Climb directly up here to the next overlap and go through it on the left of the triangle of rock underneath the overlap. Climb diagonally rightwards up the grey face then straight up breaks to the next roof. Rail right then get up into an angular brown recess. Go up to the left to stance.
Pitch 2 25m 22:
Go up and bypass the two small overhangs on the right. Climb the attractive brown wall up leftwards. Go straight up for a few metres then up to the right to the edge of the arête to the Bombay Duck abseil anchors.
FA: Guy Paterson-Jones and Hilton Davies, 1 December 2016
Fingerlocking Good Direct (19)
This climb is on the Left Side of Venster Buttress. The route is about 30m to the right of Bombay Duck. The notable features of this part of the buttress to the right of Bombay Duck are the two big vegetated gullies. Fingerlocking Good (and Fingerlocking Good Direct) cross the right hand gully.
Pitch 1 10m 19:
At the bottom of the route the gully creates a moist, shady and lush corner. Start a few metres to the left of the gully on a steep brown wall that looks very good. It is. Climb the wall and then continue a few more metres to a ledge.
Pitch 2 30m 17:
From the stance climb up on the left and then go up right and cross the gully low down to get onto the big, flat wall on the right. Wander up this wall to the big prominent roof that is underneath a large hanging buttress. Do a semi-hanging stance from a good rail about 5m below the roof. (The original route goes up left and stances immediately left of the hanging buttress on a ledge. It then continues with a grade 15 corner to the top)
Pitch 3 20m 19:
Climb up to the roof mostly a bit to the right. Climb through the centre of the roof and straight up for some way. Scramble up and left to get to the Bombay Duck abseil bolts.
FA: Karl Hayden and Hilton Davies, 29 November 2017
This climb is in the middle of Venster Buttress. The route is a few metres to the left of Garden Boy. The notable feature of the area is the big system of roofs. This route climbs up from directly below the roofs and then through them, up to the left.
Pitch 1 22m 22:
Start from the grassy ledge between the huge boulder and the easy-angled brown wall. Climb up easily to the roof. Traverse left for a couple of metres to the obvious crack through the roof. Climb the horizontal crack and then the face above to get onto a good belay ledge.
Pitch 2 18m 21:
Walk a few metres leftward to the point of the ledge. Lean out to the tip of the roof and swing out. Climb steep rock for a few moves until you can stand. Start up the steep, thin crack then move out right. Climb straight up to a ledge and cubby hole with a fixed abseil point.
Pitch 3 25m 20:
Step down to the right and go leftwards up dodgy-looking weathered rock that is actually fine. Climb the vague corner system heading up towards the sharp arête above. Just below the arête traverse 3m right to a nice ledge to stance.
Pitch 4 15m 20:
Reverse the 3m traverse and climb the corner to the right of the arête, up to the roof. Make a nice tricky move out left to get onto the arête. Climb the arête to the top.
Rappel off the fixed abseil station on top to get down to the lower abseil station. Make a second abseil.
FA: Hilton Davies and Tinie Versfeld, 9 January 2018
A fairly obvious line, but have not found record of it. Old wire found before traverse right under roof on pitch 1.
1. Start up the break left of Indian Rope Trick. At the wide break move left and then up past a small square roof on the left. Step back right and up a left facing recess. Traverse right under the roof and pull up onto the let side of a huge, perched rock on the ledge.
2. Pull over the left facing prong to a rail, then past a great horizontal slot to a flake. Pull up into a large undercling (#3 Camalot useful), then step right and up to a flat edge. Crack up to the next rail, then follow a series of vertical crack to the ledge. These are to the left of the recess where Indian Rope Trick finishes. Abseil from anchors on India Rubber
FA?: R. Halsey (rope solo) Mar 2019
Fun Factory (24)***
About the steepest rock on the lower buttresses, at the far right of the Venster Buttress. Start about 3m right of Pappadum, directly under the apex of the roof system above. Has some wild moves and plenty of exposure.
Pitch 1 30m 20:
Climb up the face about 3m right of the featured arete, tending slightly right through a vague V-shaped recess (created by blocks on the prow) and then easily up to a stance about 5m below the roofs.
Pitch 2 20m 24:
Head up past a huge rectangular block and then rail about 2m right at the base of a roof until able to pull up into the corner. At the ceiling, traverse right over the void and pull up to next rail. Move further right and balance up to establish on a small platform. Finish up and slightly right to a ledge.
Walk off to the right to the India-Venster trail.
FA: Richard Halsey and Jonathan Hajos, 26 Mar 2011, FFA: Richard Halsey and Jimbo Smith, 9 Feb 2012
The Contortion Mist (~25)***
A single pitch right of Fun Factory, with a short, hard and probably puzzling section. Use the first pitch of one of the other routes in the area to reach the blocky ledge. Start below and a bit right of the blank, hanging corner about 12 meters up.
Pitch 1 20m ~25:
From some stacked blocks, climb easily up and slightly left under a large fin into a stemming feature. Continue up to the roof system. Pull up and left on good holds, then find a way to pull into the mostly featureless short corner and up to a wide rail. Step right, and follow a finger crack to the next roof. Traverse about 1m left and finish up a short arete. Difficult to grade given the nature of the crux.
Walk off to the right to the India-Venster trail.
FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn, 22 July 2015
1. Fun Factory, 2, The Contortion Mist
Bubbles and Brew (21) ***
Start just left of Cretin.
Pitch 1. 38m (21)
Move diagonally up and left across the ramp to the large layback flake. Head slightly right and up a good hold below a short face. Continue up the face to a rail, then step left and up to the ledge with the big blocks (optional stance) Pull onto the top of the highest block and traverse to the left end. Follow the short steep crack to an overlap and move left to a sloping shelf. Pull up and continue past a wedged pillar, (there is a large block balanced on the ledge to the right - don't kick it off!). Continue more or less straight until the final wide corner where you can stem to reach the walk off ledge.
FA: R. Halsey (Mar 2018)
Six by Six (22) ***
Start ~3m right Cretin.
Pitch 1. 15m (22)
Start powerfully up the two fins (micro nuts protect start) to a wide break and step right (#1 wire or C3 000 is highest gear just above the finger rail). Climb up a steep section to a layback flake. This is a tad committing. Continue straight up on good holds to a small ledge. Step left and up to up to a ledge for a stance.
Pitch 2. 15m (17)
Head up and left from the stance following a vague left tending break. At a small shelf move up and right on an exposed, semi arete. Continue straight to a ledge at the height of the Venster.
Note: Opened as one pitch, which is very pleasant, but if there is a second climber then there will be much more rope stretch for the starting moves - which are not a give-away, so two pitches would be better. Grade takes into account the slightly bold lower section, physically it is probably a grade or two easier.
FA: R. Halsey (Mar 2018)
Yellow: Bubbles and Brew, Blue: Six by Six
Cherry on Top (17)***
Right of Curried Warf Rat is a brown, partly vegetated corner. Clearly some climbing has been done in this area over the years but it is hard to tell exactly where. This route is written up as a surprisingly good, long outing, with an airy finish, but parts of it have probably been done before.
Follow a series of vertical cracks to the right of the brown corner (these are just left of a blunt semi-arete) until you reach a small ledge.
Pull over a very narrow cave and up a steep face above. Carefully pull through a narrow V (potentially lose section of rock) to a platform.
Mantle up to the left to a small ledge (with a corner to the back left) but now traverse about 1m right over space and follow cracks up diagonally right.
Step left at the top to finish up a ramp to a stance. This is about 4m from the top of the buttress but one can walk of here to the right to the Venster (if you climb all the way to the top you will need to down climb to the level anyway).
R. Halsey Dec 2017
Cherry on Top