El Matador 19
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain
A fairly direct route up the centre of the Bullshoot Prow, blasting straight through the traverses of Bullshoot. Takes in some steepish climbing, breaking through two roofs, including the intimidating-looking double tier roof near the top of pitch 3. Good climbing with excellent gear all the way.
Start: About 20 metres to the left of Bullshoot, at a short slit beneath a ledge with double blocks on it.
Pitch 1 20m 15: Climb the slit and stand on top of the double blocks. Step off right onto the face and climb more-or-less straight up, pulling through some small overlaps on the way, to reach a big ledge.
Pitch 2 15m 17: Slightly to the right of where pitch 1 ends is a short undercut layback slit. Climb up to the right of this to a ledge. Step slightly left and climb the short steepish face to gain a long protruding block. Step off the right end of the block and swing across the slightly undercut wall to a good foothold beneath a small roof. Pull through this on excellent layaways for the left hand and a good pocket for the right, to gain easier ground and a small but good stance up and off to the right.
Pitch 1 and 2 can quite easily be combined into a single 35m pitch
Pitch 3 20m 19: Move up the flaky fault to the base of a corner/groove (crossing Bullshoot). Pull awkwardly into this and continue up (still awkwardly) till able to stand more comfortably on a shelf on the left. Move up steeply, but on fairly good holds till able to mantleshelf onto a long platform. Move higher (crossing Bullshoot again), using a good jutting prong, to below the big roof. Pull up to the left on a good rail beneath the lip of the roof and break through using the huge flake system above. Continue more easily to the big ledge above.
Descent: Walk of to the left into Africa Ravine and down this to the base of the route.
FA: Tony Lourens, Willie Koen 11 Oct 2015
A Sudden Loss Of Cabin Pressure 27
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain
Starts on the same ledge as for Manoeuvres By Moonlight (MBM) about 10m left of that route and climbs up trending slightly rightwards towards the prominent, large, overhanging nose above.
Pitch 1 12m 27:
Start just right of a large boulder with a jagged top edge. Use a flake on the wall to get to the roof, step left, and reach back into the rail in the roof behind you. Move out along the rail then reach right to the lip of the roof below an open book (fixed nut). Climb to the rail above and move right across the open book to a jam. Pull straight up onto the face and open book above. Stance above this at a threaded sling.
Gear: Beware of the large, jagged boulder. Place some cams at the base of the roof both left and right of the line to protect the first few moves until established in the roof.
Pitch 2 15m 23:
Move 3m right towards a small corner. Climb this and then through a small bulge to reach the MBM rail. Traverse 1m right along the rail and climb straight up the obvious layback flake. Continue through a short, smooth, bulging face/corner and up 5m to a good ledge.
Pitch 3 20m 12:
Scramble right and a little up below the large, overhanging nose to a good stance about 5m below and right of the nose (just down and right from a thin, balancing block).
Pitch 4 20m 24:
Climb up the block to a rail below a roof. Traverse left until it is possible to pull up into the corner on the right hand side of the nose. Rail left onto the exposed nose and climb the airy face and arete. Continue up to the top of the nose.
Descent: Either scramble up and walk off right or abseil directly down off a fixed point (small tree, 60m ropes) back to the starting ledge.
FA: Mark Seuring and Douw Steyn (2012)
Direct Pressure 28/29
An obvious direct version to the first pitch of Cabin Pressure: Start as for Cabin Pressure and climb straight up through the roof and over the slopy shelf joining Cabin Pressure again at the higher rail.
A short boulder problem with good gear and clean falls. Consensus grading needed. I think it's about the same or maybe a grade harder than Cabin Pressure's 1st pitch (definitely harder moves, but shorter and less fiddly with gear).
FA: Phlip Olivier (26 Jan 2013)
Moonlight Direct 23
Arrow Buttress, Table Mountain
Start: From India Ravine traverse left under Arrow Buttress on the left for about 70m to get to the start of Fraser’s Variation. About 20m further along come to a prominent blocky pinnacle that stands away from the face. This pinnacle is the start of the route. This route takes its name from the excellent traversing route Manoeuvres by Moonlight, through which it cuts a steep, sustained and direct line in improbable situations.
Start: At the front of the blocky pinnacle.
Pitch 1 30m 17:
Climb up the front of the blocky pinnacle to its flat top. Walk across to the face and head up smooth rock to reach a big ledge with huge overhanging roof. Belay 6m to the left where a seam leads up to the roof that is 3 or 4m above the ground.
Pitch 2 10m 22:
A handrail runs rightwards underneath the roof and ends in a break through the overhang on the right. Ease up the face at the back then rail out right using half a dozen cams to prevent ground fall potential. The rail is unrelenting with poor foot placements. At the break head up and slightly right on steep rock to reach a small ledge with a good rail on the left for making a hanging stance. It is necessary to keep the pitch short to prevent a possible ground fall for the second.
Pitch 3 30m 23:
Head directly up to the break in the first roof above. Move up and right through the break to reach a disappointing rail below the Manoeuvres by Moonlight rail. Continue up to Manoeuvres by Moonlight (excellent sharp rail) and trending right go through a few more overlaps. Pull through on small holds to get established on the vertical wall above. Head up and slightly left to reach a disappointing rail again. Overcome the bulge to get onto easy ground leading up to a good ledge below the next big roof.
Pitch 4 20m 22:
Off to the right is a huge overhanging nose that protrudes far out from the buttress. Head off to the right for 3 or 4 metres to reach a gully. Move up into the gully for 2m then using a decent rail head out right over space. Place two good large cams at the end of the rail! Using small edges, a small vertical fingertips lock and tiny flakes move up the overhanging wall to eventually reach a good rail to place gear (Need a strong-head day). Proceed directly up easy ground, about grade 19, to top out on the nose at a good ledge with a small tree.
Use the small tree to rappel off. Two 60m ropes get the party to the ground.
First ascent: Hilton Davies and Bruce Daniel, 19 March 2010
Left Hall-G1/2 on Lower (Arrow) Butress
Earlier ascents of this or similar lines have occurred but have not been written up. The route provides an nice straight line up steep rock. Unfortunatley while the second pitch provides fun climbing, the rock is rather vegitated. Hopefully more ascents will clean it up some what. The third pitch makes up for it, with great moves on an exposed wall. Start in obvious recess 10m right of the start of Fraser’s Frontal.
Pitch 1 20m F2:
Starting at the wide crack, climb straight up clean rock, crossing two ledges to a stance beneath a roof, 4m left of the first stance on Fraser’s
Pitch 2 40m F3:
Climb up to the roof, passing it on the right. Climb approx. 10m up the (mossy) wall above to a ledge. Above & to the right is a small overhang capped by a nose. This nose can be passed on the either side but it’s more fun on the right. Climb diagonally right up the mossy wall until one reaches a prominent rail level with the 2nd stance of Frasers. Travers right to the same stance.
Pitch 3 35m G1/2:
Above is a shallow scoop running up the centre of the obviuos flat wall. A third of the way up the wall is a prominent arrow head flake (more solid than it looks !) Start beneath the flake, climbing diagonally leftward for about 5m before moving rightwards up to the flake. Climb onto the flake & then straight up the scoop above on small holds. Some small Camalots – around C3 # 0 – are very useful for this section. The wall is topped by a roof split by a hanging open book. Pull strenously up this to the top.
Simon Larsen & Ant Hall 2005
Delhi Belly 22
A new route that is climbs an obvious line on Venster buttress between Bombay Chicken & Quacks. Note: Small cams are necessary!
Start: Two meters to the right of Quacks is a blunt Arête undercut by a small roof on the right.
Pitch 1: 20m 22.
Using the small under cling below the roof pull up onto the sloping holds above. Precariously pop up into the shallow corner system & rail above (crux.) Climb directly up to under the roof above. (Bombay Duck climbs 1m left of the roof) Pull through the roof and into the open book above (peg) and climb directly up to stance on some small ledges, a few meters above. Alternative: 23m 20. Climb the first 8m of Bombay duck and then move up and climb into the open book corner above. Traverse left under the roof and then climb up to the stance above. (This could be Bombay Chicken but not sure.)
Pitch 2: 18m 21.
Follow the ramp up and left to below an undercut, stepped corner. Climb the layback crack up onto the bulging recess (crux.) Climb this to the large ledge above. This stance is shared with Bombay Duck and India Chicken.
Pitch 3: 16m 20.
From the large ledge start as you would for the final pitch of Bombay Duck. Move diagonally up right into the large rail above. Rail right and pull through the roof and up into the recess above. Climb up on the right of the arête then traverse right towards the abseil anchors. (Beware of large loose block at the abseil anchors.)
FA: Malcolm Gowans, Bryant Roux & Cormac Tooze. December 2012.
Fun Factory 24
About the steepest rock on the lower buttresses, at the far right of the Venster Buttress. Start about 3m right of Pappadum, directly under the apex of the roof system above. Has some wild moves and plenty of exposure.
Pitch 1 30m 20:
Climb up the face about 3m right of the featured arete, tending slightly right through a vague V-shaped recess (created by blocks on the prow) and then easily up to a stance about 5m below the roofs.
Pitch 2 20m 24:
Head up past a huge rectangular block and then rail about 2m right at the base of a roof until able to pull up into the corner. At the ceiling, traverse right over the void and pull up to next rail. Move further right and balance up to establish on a small platform. Finish up and slightly right to a ledge.
Walk off to the right to the India-Venster trail.
FA: Richard Halsey and Jonathan Hajos, 26 Mar 2011, FFA: Richard Halsey and Jimbo Smith, 9 Feb 2012
The Contortion Mist ~25
A single pitch right of Fun Factory, with a short, hard and probably puzzling section. Use the first pitch of one of the other routes in the area to reach the blocky ledge. Start below and a bit right of the blank, hanging corner about 12 meters up.
Pitch 1 20m ~25:
From some stacked blocks, climb easily up and slightly left under a large fin into a stemming feature. Continue up to the roof system. Pull up and left on good holds, then find a way to pull into the mostly featureless short corner and up to a wide rail. Step right, and follow a finger crack to the next roof. Traverse about 1m left and finish up a short arete. Difficult to grade given the nature of the crux.
Walk off to the right to the India-Venster trail.
FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn, 22 July 2015
1. Fun Factory, 2, The Contortion Mist