Difference between revisions of "Montagu"
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Revision as of 21:11, 31 July 2014
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Montagu is recognised as one of the most outstanding climbing destinations in South Africa due to the quality and number of climbing routes available. Montagu’s rock walls offer a wide variety of climbing opportunities at every level from beginner to expert. The charming town of Montagu is situated in the Klein Karoo (semi desert region) on the east side of the Langeberg mountain range 2 hours / 200km drive east of Cape Town. Montagu is well known for it’s hot mineral springs as well as climbing and mountain biking.
- 1 About Montagu
- 2 The Weather in Montagu
- 3 Driving to Montagu
- 4 Accommodation for climbers in Montagu
- 5 Montagu Restaurants, Pubs & Supermarkets
- 6 Other Activities in Montagu
- 7 Classic Routes
- 8 Montagu Area Map
- 9 Montagu Bolting Information
- 10 Montagu Climbing Areas
Once a sleepy little Karoo town where not much happened, the town has since transformed into a vibrant energetic holiday destination. Montagu’s hot springs were first documented in the late 1700′s. The hot spring water comes out at 43° C from a fissure estimated to be 3km deep and is unaffected by drought. In 1877, Thomas Bain built the Cogmans Kloof pass and the tunnel that trade began to develop the area. Between 1902 and 1985 the Brink Brother’s enterprises were of major significance to the town. Their activities included general dealers, bottling works, canning factory, dried fruit production and a department store. In 1936 Montagu was declared a health resort. This resulted in an influx of wealthy people purchasing holiday houses.
The Weather in Montagu
It rarely rains in Montagu (except for the occasional freak floods http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/08/2012-montagu-flood/). When Cape Town has bad weather, Montagu normally has perfect conditions for climbing.
Driving to Montagu
From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl. You have the choice of taking the tunnel (toll is R26.00) or driving over the pass which is very scenic and recommendable in good weather. Once on the other side of the mountain (you’re now in Du Toits Kloof) keep on the N1 until you pass the Shell Ultra City. Turn right and follow the signs to Robertson and then through Ashton and then onto Montagu. Be aware of speed traps in the towns (60km zones) and sometimes in the kloof before Montagu.
Accommodation for climbers in Montagu
There is accommodation in Montagu to suite any budget and style. There are two campsites in Montagu as well as many child & pet friendly self-catering holiday rentals, bed & breakfasts and hotels.
Montagu Restaurants, Pubs & Supermarkets
There are a few supermarkets in town (e.g. Spar) and restaurants in & around Montagu.
Other Activities in Montagu
Besides the great climbing, there are many other fun things to see & do around Montagu.
- The Gospel Express (17)
- Nuclear Waste (20)
- Thruster (26)
- Daze of Thunder (27/28)
- Cool Like That (29)
Montagu Area Map
Montagu Bolting Information
To avoid any further Altercations with land owners and incorrect equipment being used, the Montagu Mountain Committee (who are responsible for the Montagu Reserve) have asked for applications to be submitted before a new route is bolted.
Applications here: http://www.climbing.co.za/bolting-information/bolting-new-routes-montagu/
Montagu Climbing Areas
Bad Kloof , “Bath” Kloof in English is the kloof between the Montagu Hot Springs towards the West side of Montagu. The are more than 20 individual crags and over 130 routes from which to choose.
- Berlin Wall
- Jurrasic Park
- Lion Said
- Peanut Gallery
- South Park
- The Hotel
- The Swamp
- The Palace
- Uriah Heep
Bosch Kloof has 10 crags and 97 Routes. You MAY climb at: Legoland & The Far Side & The Panel For now, Please NO Climbing at: Bosch, Ramset, Hilti, Forest, Twin Fins, Skull
- The Far Side
- Bosch Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
- Ramset Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
- Forest Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
- Hilti Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
- Skull Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
- Twin Fins - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
- The Panel Crags
Climbing on R62 is approx. 9km out of Montagu and has both sport and trad routes.
Cogmans Kloof is the kloof (gorge) which you are driving through when you are on the R62 road from Ashton to Montagu. There are many opportunities to climb on either side of the kloof, the most obvious being Cogmans Buttress, the Steeple and Bold & Beautiful Crag.
- Bold and the Beautiful
- Cogmans Buttress
- Eagle's Folly Buttress
- Mystery Crag
- The Alley
- The Fort
- The Steeple
- The Cauldron
- The Scoop.
Coming from CT side – About 200 meters on right after you drive through the tunnel (with an old British fort on top). The are 7 individual crags and over 40 routes from which to choose. There is also a lot of scope for new route development.
There are several crags in Oorlogs Kloof with +/- 40 routes. There are also a number of trad routes. Most of the walls are north facing (best visited when the weather is cooler), but some are in gulleys and a few face south (all day shade). The routes vary from 8-30m long and from slabs to overhanging walls.