Difference between revisions of "Montagu"

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         | Province = Western Cape
 
         | Province = Western Cape
 
         | Area = Montagu  
 
         | Area = Montagu  
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        | Picture = [[File:20130401 IMG 9877-800.jpg|500px]]
  
 
}}
 
}}
 +
=About Montagu=
 +
Montagu is recognised as one of the most outstanding climbing destinations in South Africa due to the quality and number of climbing routes available.  Montagu’s rock walls offer a wide variety of climbing opportunities at every level from beginner to expert.  The charming town of Montagu is situated in the Klein Karoo (semi desert region) on the east side of the Langeberg mountain range 2 hours / 200km drive east of Cape Town.  Montagu is well known for it’s hot mineral springs as well as climbing and mountain biking.
  
Montagu is 2 hours / 200km drive east of Cape Town. Montagu is the most developed sport climbing area in the Western Cape (if not the country). 100's of sport routes of all ranges of difficulty. +/-400 Single Pitch & a good few Multi-Pitch Sport Routes.
+
Once a sleepy little Karoo town where not much happened, the town has since transformed into a vibrant energetic holiday destination. Montagu’s hot springs were first documented in the late 1700′s.  The hot spring water comes out at 43° C from a fissure estimated to be 3km deep and is unaffected by drought.  In 1877, Thomas Bain built the Cogmans Kloof pass and the tunnel that trade began to develop the area.   Between 1902 and 1985 the Brink Brother’s enterprises were of major significance to the town. Their activities included general dealers, bottling works, canning factory, dried fruit production and a department store.  In 1936 Montagu was declared a health resort. This resulted in an influx of wealthy people purchasing holiday houses.
  
<h1>Climbing in Montagu</h1>
+
=The Weather in Montagu=
Montagu offers some of the best climbing in the Western Cape with many crags that vary in grade and steepness with excellent quality rock. Two hours drive from Cape Town, it rarely rains in Montagu and when Cape Town has bad weather, Montagu normally has perfect conditions for climbing (Except for the occasional freak floods). 
+
It rarely rains in Montagu (except for the occasional freak floods http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/08/2012-montagu-flood/).  When Cape Town has bad weather, Montagu normally has perfect conditions for climbing.
The small town of Montagu is situated in the Klein Karoo (semi desert region). Once a sleepy little Karoo town where not much happened, the town has since transformed into a vibrant energetic holiday destination. It is now well known for climbing and mountain biking (among things).
+
  
* Click here for more information about Montagu on http://montagu.org.za
+
=Driving to Montagu=
<br>
+
From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl. You have the choice of taking the tunnel (toll is R26.00) or driving over the pass which is very scenic and recommendable in good weather. Once on the other side of the mountain (you’re now in Du Toits Kloof) keep on the N1 until you pass the Shell Ultra City. Turn right and follow the signs to Robertson and then through Ashton and then onto Montagu.  Be aware of speed traps in the towns (60km zones) and sometimes in the kloof before Montagu.
  
=Bolting / New Routes =
+
=Accommodation for climbers in Montagu=
 +
There is accommodation in Montagu to suite any budget and style.  There are two campsites in Montagu as well as many child & pet friendly self-catering holiday rentals, bed & breakfasts and hotels.
  
I’m sure everyone is aware of the [http://www.climb.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5670&start=0&hilit=bosch 'closure of Bosch Kloof']. 
+
=Montagu Restaurants, Pubs & Supermarkets=
To avoid any further Altercations with land owners and incorrect equipment being used, the Montagu Mountain Committee (who are responsible for the Montagu Reserve) have asked for applications to be submitted before a new route is bolted.
+
There are a few supermarkets in town (e.g. Spar) and restaurants in & around Montagu.
 
+
=Other Activities in Montagu=
== Application info should include: ==
+
* Location of the route
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* A picture of the route with the proposed route drawn in  
+
* Whether or not there is an existing path to the new route?
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* Have you bolted before?
+
* Your contact details
+
 
+
Your request will be processed as quickly as possible and you will be contacted with regards to your application.
+
Please send all new route applications to [mailto:info@climbing.co.za info@climbing.co.za] and make the subject New Routes Montagu.
+
 
+
As with the rest of the Western Cape, only 316 Stainless Steel rolled bolts are allowed to be used for bolting routes in Montagu. Check the    [http://www.climb.co.za/anchor-replacement-fund/ Anchor Replacement Fund page] for more information.
+
 
+
= Getting there =
+
From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl. You have the choice of taking the tunnel (toll is R21.00) or driving over the pass which is very scenic and recommendable in good weather. Once on the other side of the mountain (you're now in Du Toits Kloof) keep on the N1 until you pass the Shell Ultra City. Turn right at the second set of traffic lights and take the R43 into Worcester, after going over the bridge, turn left at the high street traffic lights (2nd set) and follow the signs to Robertson and then onto Ashton and then Montagu. You should now be on the 'R60' road, Note that this road turns into the 'R62' after Ashton.
+
Be aware that the local traffic cops have been trapping in the towns (60km zones) and sometimes in the kloof before Montagu.
+
 
+
= Accommodation & Food =
+
  
[http://www.debos.co.za De Bos] (Tel/Fax 023 614 2532, Cell 082 3325453). Camping is about R30 per person per night (includes cooking facilities)
+
Besides the great climbing, there are many other fun things to see & do around Montagu. Check out the following activites:
The Barn costs R60 (minimum two nights stay) has bunk beds, includes cooking facilities (as of Jan 2009).
+
Mountainbiking
The Barn at De Bos is closed during winter to stable the horses. Camping and other self-catering accommodation is still available.
+
Wine Tasting
Bungelows are also available from R250.
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Hot Springs
  
[http://www.rainbowglen.co.za Rainbow Glen] (Tel 023 614 1294)
 
Double Rooms from R350 (per couple)
 
  
There are supermarkets in town (Spar, OK Foods, etc) and restaurants in Montagu.
 
  
 
= Classic Routes=
 
= Classic Routes=
Line 64: Line 47:
  
 
= Montagu Area Map =
 
= Montagu Area Map =
<display_points type="terrain" height="500">
+
<display_points type="terrain" height="500" width="800">
 
-33.711917,19.986355 | [[Oorlogs Kloof]]
 
-33.711917,19.986355 | [[Oorlogs Kloof]]
 
-33.821941,20.149584 | [[Lost World]]
 
-33.821941,20.149584 | [[Lost World]]
Line 115: Line 98:
 
</display_points>
 
</display_points>
  
= Climbing Areas =
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=Montagu Bolting Information =
 +
To avoid any further Altercations with land owners and incorrect equipment being used, the Montagu Mountain Committee (who are responsible for the Montagu Reserve) have asked for applications to be submitted before a new route is bolted.
 +
 
 +
Applications here: http://www.climbing.co.za/bolting-information/bolting-new-routes-montagu/
  
==[[Bad Kloof]]==
 
Crags including: Berlin Wall, Jurrasic Park, Laundry, Lion Said, Peanut Gallery, Pipeline, Playground, Rage, Sloth, South Park, Supertubes, The Hotel, The Swamp, The Palace, Uriah Heep, Waterworld
 
  
==[[Bosch Kloof‎]]==
+
= Montagu Climbing Areas =
Crags including: Legoland, The Far Side, Bosch Crag, Ramset Crag, Forest Crag, Hilti Crag, Skull Crag, Twin Fins, The Panel Crags, Matrix
+
  
== [[Climbing on R62‎ | The Farm (Climbing on R62)]] ==
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===[[Bad Kloof]]===
== [[Cogmans Kloof‎]] ==
+
Bad Kloof , “Bath” Kloof in English is the kloof between the Montagu Hot Springs towards the West side of Montagu. The are more than 20 individual crags and over 130 routes from which to choose.
** [[Bold and the Beautiful]]
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*Berlin Wall
** [[Cogmans Buttress]]
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*Jurrasic Park
** [[Mystery Crag]]
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*Laundry
** [[The Alley]]
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*Lion Said
** [[The Fort]]
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*Peanut Gallery
** [[The Steeple]]
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*Pipeline
 +
*Playground
 +
*Rage
 +
*Sloth
 +
*South Park
 +
*Supertubes
 +
*The Hotel
 +
*The Swamp
 +
*The Palace
 +
*Uriah Heep
 +
*[[Waterworld]]
  
== [[Donker Kloof‎]]==
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===[[Bosch Kloof‎]]===
** [[The Cauldron]]
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Bosch Kloof has 10 crags and 97 Routes. You MAY climb at: Legoland & The Far Side & The Panel For now, Please NO Climbing at: Bosch, Ramset, Hilti, Forest, Twin Fins, Skull
** [[The Scoop]]
+
*Legoland,
 +
*The Far Side
 +
*Bosch Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
 +
*Ramset Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
 +
*Forest Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
 +
*Hilti Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
 +
*Skull Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
 +
*Twin Fins - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
 +
*The Panel Crags
 +
*Matrix
  
== [[Guano Caves‎]] ==
+
=== [[Climbing on R62‎ | The Farm (Climbing on R62)]] ===
 +
Climbing on R62 is approx. 9km out of Montagu and has both sport and trad routes.
  
==[[Keur Kloof‎]]==
+
=== [[Cogmans Kloof‎]] ===
** [[Heaven]]
+
Cogmans Kloof is the kloof (gorge) which you are driving through when you are on the R62 road from Ashton to Montagu. There are many opportunities to climb on either side of the kloof, the most obvious being Cogmans Buttress, the Steeple and Bold & Beautiful Crag.
** [[Jamaica]]
+
* [[Bold and the Beautiful]]
** [[Joe's Garage]]
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* [[Cogmans Buttress]]
** [[Rose Bowl]]
+
* [[Eagle's Folly Buttress]]
** [[The Lineup]]
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* [[Mystery Crag]]
** [[The Shooting Gallery]]
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* [[The Alley]]
** [[Vision]]
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* [[The Fort]]
 +
* [[The Steeple]]
  
== [[Lost World‎]]==
+
=== [[Donker Kloof‎]]===
 +
*The Cauldron
 +
*The Scoop.
  
==[[Oorlogs Kloof‎]]==
+
=== Guano Caves ===
Crags including: Buttock Buttress, Maverick Wall, Meatloaf Wall, Wildcard Buttress, Le Pique-nique Area, Snark Buttress, Cowboy Area, Cuts Both Ways Area, Tower of Babel
+
  
 
+
===[[Keur Kloof‎]]===
+
Coming from CT side – About 200 meters on right after you drive through the tunnel (with an old British fort on top). The are 7 individual crags and over 40 routes from which to choose. There is also a lot of scope for new route development.
   
+
* [[Heaven]]
 +
* [[Jamaica]]
 +
* [[Joe's Garage]]
 +
* [[Rose Bowl]]
 +
* [[The Lineup]]
 +
* [[The Shooting Gallery]]
 +
* [[Vision]]
  
 +
=== [[Lost World‎]]===
  
>> Back to [[Western Cape]] page
+
===[[Oorlogs Kloof‎]]===
 +
There are several crags in Oorlogs Kloof with +/- 40 routes. There are also a number of trad routes. Most of the walls are north facing (best visited when the weather is cooler), but some are in gulleys and a few face south (all day shade). The routes vary from 8-30m long and from slabs to overhanging walls.
 +
* Buttock Buttress
 +
* Maverick Wall
 +
* Meatloaf Wall
 +
* Wildcard Buttress
 +
* Le Pique-nique Area
 +
* Snark Buttress
 +
* Cowboy Area
 +
* Cuts Both Ways Area
 +
* Tower of Babel
 +
* [[Canasta Buttress]]
 +
* [[Seamster Buttress]]

Latest revision as of 17:49, 3 August 2014


20130401 IMG 9877-800.jpg
Montagu
Loading map...
Latitude-33.784854
Longitude20.116596
Climbing TypeSport, Multi-pitch Sport, Trad
Rock TypeQuartzite/Sandstone
SeasonAll year round
ProvinceWestern Cape
AreaMontagu




About Montagu

Montagu is recognised as one of the most outstanding climbing destinations in South Africa due to the quality and number of climbing routes available. Montagu’s rock walls offer a wide variety of climbing opportunities at every level from beginner to expert. The charming town of Montagu is situated in the Klein Karoo (semi desert region) on the east side of the Langeberg mountain range 2 hours / 200km drive east of Cape Town. Montagu is well known for it’s hot mineral springs as well as climbing and mountain biking.

Once a sleepy little Karoo town where not much happened, the town has since transformed into a vibrant energetic holiday destination. Montagu’s hot springs were first documented in the late 1700′s. The hot spring water comes out at 43° C from a fissure estimated to be 3km deep and is unaffected by drought. In 1877, Thomas Bain built the Cogmans Kloof pass and the tunnel that trade began to develop the area. Between 1902 and 1985 the Brink Brother’s enterprises were of major significance to the town. Their activities included general dealers, bottling works, canning factory, dried fruit production and a department store. In 1936 Montagu was declared a health resort. This resulted in an influx of wealthy people purchasing holiday houses.

The Weather in Montagu

It rarely rains in Montagu (except for the occasional freak floods http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/08/2012-montagu-flood/). When Cape Town has bad weather, Montagu normally has perfect conditions for climbing.

Driving to Montagu

From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl. You have the choice of taking the tunnel (toll is R26.00) or driving over the pass which is very scenic and recommendable in good weather. Once on the other side of the mountain (you’re now in Du Toits Kloof) keep on the N1 until you pass the Shell Ultra City. Turn right and follow the signs to Robertson and then through Ashton and then onto Montagu. Be aware of speed traps in the towns (60km zones) and sometimes in the kloof before Montagu.

Accommodation for climbers in Montagu

There is accommodation in Montagu to suite any budget and style. There are two campsites in Montagu as well as many child & pet friendly self-catering holiday rentals, bed & breakfasts and hotels.

Montagu Restaurants, Pubs & Supermarkets

There are a few supermarkets in town (e.g. Spar) and restaurants in & around Montagu.

Other Activities in Montagu

Besides the great climbing, there are many other fun things to see & do around Montagu. Check out the following activites: Mountainbiking Wine Tasting Hot Springs


Classic Routes

  • The Gospel Express (17)
  • Nuclear Waste (20)
  • Wildcard(24)
  • Thruster (26)
  • Daze of Thunder (27/28)
  • Cool Like That (29)

Montagu Area Map

Loading map...

Montagu Bolting Information

To avoid any further Altercations with land owners and incorrect equipment being used, the Montagu Mountain Committee (who are responsible for the Montagu Reserve) have asked for applications to be submitted before a new route is bolted.

Applications here: http://www.climbing.co.za/bolting-information/bolting-new-routes-montagu/


Montagu Climbing Areas

Bad Kloof

Bad Kloof , “Bath” Kloof in English is the kloof between the Montagu Hot Springs towards the West side of Montagu. The are more than 20 individual crags and over 130 routes from which to choose.

  • Berlin Wall
  • Jurrasic Park
  • Laundry
  • Lion Said
  • Peanut Gallery
  • Pipeline
  • Playground
  • Rage
  • Sloth
  • South Park
  • Supertubes
  • The Hotel
  • The Swamp
  • The Palace
  • Uriah Heep
  • Waterworld

Bosch Kloof‎

Bosch Kloof has 10 crags and 97 Routes. You MAY climb at: Legoland & The Far Side & The Panel For now, Please NO Climbing at: Bosch, Ramset, Hilti, Forest, Twin Fins, Skull

  • Legoland,
  • The Far Side
  • Bosch Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
  • Ramset Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
  • Forest Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
  • Hilti Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
  • Skull Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
  • Twin Fins - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
  • The Panel Crags
  • Matrix

The Farm (Climbing on R62)

Climbing on R62 is approx. 9km out of Montagu and has both sport and trad routes.

Cogmans Kloof‎

Cogmans Kloof is the kloof (gorge) which you are driving through when you are on the R62 road from Ashton to Montagu. There are many opportunities to climb on either side of the kloof, the most obvious being Cogmans Buttress, the Steeple and Bold & Beautiful Crag.

Donker Kloof‎

  • The Cauldron
  • The Scoop.

Guano Caves

Keur Kloof‎

Coming from CT side – About 200 meters on right after you drive through the tunnel (with an old British fort on top). The are 7 individual crags and over 40 routes from which to choose. There is also a lot of scope for new route development.

Lost World‎

Oorlogs Kloof‎

There are several crags in Oorlogs Kloof with +/- 40 routes. There are also a number of trad routes. Most of the walls are north facing (best visited when the weather is cooler), but some are in gulleys and a few face south (all day shade). The routes vary from 8-30m long and from slabs to overhanging walls.

  • Buttock Buttress
  • Maverick Wall
  • Meatloaf Wall
  • Wildcard Buttress
  • Le Pique-nique Area
  • Snark Buttress
  • Cowboy Area
  • Cuts Both Ways Area
  • Tower of Babel
  • Canasta Buttress
  • Seamster Buttress