Difference between revisions of "Montagu"

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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Climbing in Montagu}}
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{{#seo:
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        |og:site_name=Climb ZA
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        |og:type=article
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        |og:image=http://www.climbing.co.za/w/images/thumb/a/ac/20130401_IMG_9877-800.jpg/350px-20130401_IMG_9877-800.jpg
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        |article:publisher=https://www.facebook.com/pages/Climb-ZA-Rock-Climbing-South-Africa/302540184148
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        |title=Climbing in Montagu, South Africa
 +
        |titlemode=replace
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        |keywords=Climbing, Montagu, South Africa, Sport Climbing
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        |description=Montagu (2 hours drive east of Cape Town)is one of South Africa's top climbing destinations. Mostly single pitch sport, but also some excellent multi-pitch sport as well as trad climbing.
 +
}}
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{{Infobox Area
 
{{Infobox Area
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        | Dirlink = [[File:Ad climbza montagu info.jpg|link=http://www.climbing.co.za/directory/montagu/]]
 
         | Latitude = -33.784854
 
         | Latitude = -33.784854
 
         | Longitude = 20.116596
 
         | Longitude = 20.116596
Line 9: Line 20:
 
         | Province = Western Cape
 
         | Province = Western Cape
 
         | Area = Montagu  
 
         | Area = Montagu  
 +
        | Picture = [[File:20130401 IMG 9877-800.jpg|350px]]
  
 
}}
 
}}
 +
=About Montagu=
 +
Montagu is recognised as one of the most outstanding climbing destinations in South Africa due to the quality and number of climbing routes available.  Montagu’s rock walls offer a wide variety of climbing opportunities at every level from beginner to expert.  The charming town of Montagu is situated in the Klein Karoo (semi desert region) on the east side of the Langeberg mountain range 2 hours / 200km drive east of Cape Town.  Montagu is well known for it’s hot mineral springs as well as climbing and mountain biking.
  
Montagu is 2 hours / 200km drive east of Cape Town. Montagu is the most developed sport climbing area in the Western Cape. 100's of sport routes of all ranges of difficulty. +/-400 Single Pitch & a good few Multi-Pitch Sport Routes.
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Once a sleepy little Karoo town where not much happened, the town has since transformed into a vibrant energetic holiday destination. Montagu’s hot springs were first documented in the late 1700′s.  The hot spring water comes out at 43° C from a fissure estimated to be 3km deep and is unaffected by drought.  In 1877, Thomas Bain built the Cogmans Kloof pass and the tunnel that trade began to develop the area.   Between 1902 and 1985 the Brink Brother’s enterprises were of major significance to the town. Their activities included general dealers, bottling works, canning factory, dried fruit production and a department store.  In 1936 Montagu was declared a health resort. This resulted in an influx of wealthy people purchasing holiday houses.
  
__NOTOC__
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=The Weather in Montagu=
 +
It rarely rains in Montagu (except for the occasional freak floods http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/08/2012-montagu-flood/).  When Cape Town has bad weather, Montagu normally has perfect conditions for climbing.
 +
 
 +
=Driving to Montagu=
 +
From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl. You have the choice of taking the tunnel (toll is R26.00) or driving over the pass which is very scenic and recommendable in good weather. Once on the other side of the mountain (you’re now in Du Toits Kloof) keep on the N1 until you pass the Shell Ultra City.  Turn right and follow the signs to Robertson and then through Ashton and then onto Montagu.  Be aware of speed traps in the towns (60km zones) and sometimes in the kloof before Montagu.
 +
 
 +
=Accommodation for climbers in Montagu=
 +
There is accommodation in Montagu to suite any budget and style.  There are two campsites in Montagu as well as many child & pet friendly self-catering holiday rentals, bed & breakfasts and hotels.
 +
 
 +
=Montagu Restaurants, Pubs & Supermarkets=
 +
There are a few supermarkets in town (e.g. Spar) and restaurants in & around Montagu.
 +
=Other Activities in Montagu=
 +
 
 +
Besides the great climbing, there are many other fun things to see & do around Montagu. Check out the following activites:
 +
Mountainbiking
 +
Wine Tasting
 +
Hot Springs
  
=Online Topos for Climbing in Montagu=
 
http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/western-cape/montagu/
 
  
  
Line 29: Line 57:
 
* Cool Like That (29)
 
* Cool Like That (29)
  
= Montagu Area Map =
 
<display_points type="terrain" height="500" width="800">
 
-33.711917,19.986355 | [[Oorlogs Kloof]]
 
-33.821941,20.149584 | [[Lost World]]
 
-33.814130,  20.099668|Forest
 
-33.814506,  20.100920|Twin Fins
 
-33.814052,  20.097529|Hilti
 
-33.812413,  20.097465|Ramset
 
-33.813149,  20.096663|Bosch
 
-33.814032,  20.092526|The Panel
 
-33.813778,  20.091539|Legoland
 
-33.781209,  20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
 
-33.813309,  20.101642|Skull
 
-33.814223,  20.089030|The Far Side
 
-33.802166,  20.095198|The Fort
 
-33.793572,  20.102257|The Bold & The Beautiful
 
-33.793292,  20.102420|The Alley
 
-33.797866,  20.101620|The Steeple
 
-33.801013,  20.108511|[[Cogmans Buttress]]
 
-33.804586,  20.108977|Eagles Folly Buttress
 
-33.800198,  20.108959|Castle in the Sky
 
-33.809996,  20.098951|The Matrix
 
-33.806475,  20.106508|The Shooting Gallery
 
-33.803112,  20.100117|Keur Kloof Entrance
 
-33.812488,  20.105046|The Rose Bowl
 
-33.811838,  20.107850|Joe's Garage
 
-33.813347,  20.111308|Vision
 
-33.816498,  20.120413|Heaven
 
-33.811933,  20.094853|Entrance to Bosch Kloof
 
-33.783410,  20.099196|The Scoop
 
-33.779165,  20.112353|Eyssenhuis
 
-33.782461,  20.101328|Klipspringer Hut
 
-33.776248,  20.116096|Waterworld
 
-33.775864,  20.116799|Peanut Gallery
 
-33.775253,  20.117633|Sloth
 
-33.774655,  20.118121|Supertubes
 
-33.774854,  20.117176|Lion Said
 
-33.776000,  20.114984|The Penthouse
 
-33.773043,  20.120942|The Palace
 
-33.773276,  20.120052|South Park
 
-33.774591,  20.119560|The Pipeline
 
-33.771811,  20.118502|The Swamp
 
-33.771814,  20.117901|The Playground
 
-33.769928,  20.114097|Berlin Wall
 
-33.769408,  20.115578|Jurassic Park
 
-33.769769,  20.115271|Worlds Apart
 
-33.771515,  20.116188|Uriah Heap
 
-33.780232,  20.103545|The Cauldron
 
-33.779266,  20.112121|Donkerkloof Entrance
 
-33.836344,20.181406|[[Climbing on R62‎]]
 
</display_points>
 
  
 
=Montagu Bolting Information =
 
=Montagu Bolting Information =
Line 89: Line 66:
 
= Montagu Climbing Areas =
 
= Montagu Climbing Areas =
  
===[[Bad Kloof]]===
 
*Berlin Wall
 
*Jurrasic Park
 
*Laundry
 
*Lion Said
 
*Peanut Gallery
 
*Pipeline
 
*Playground
 
*Rage
 
*Sloth
 
*South Park
 
*Supertubes
 
*The Hotel
 
*The Swamp
 
*The Palace
 
*Uriah Heep
 
*Waterworld
 
  
===[[Bosch Kloof‎]]===  
+
{| class="wikitable"
 +
|-
 +
! Map !! Area Description
 +
|-
 +
| {{#display_points:-33.779165, 20.112353|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} || [[Bad Kloof‎]]
 +
Bad Kloof , “Bath” Kloof in English is the kloof between the Montagu Hot Springs towards the West side of Montagu. The are more than 20 individual crags and over 130 routes from which to choose.
 +
{{columns-list|3|
 +
*[[Berlin Wall]]
 +
*[[Jurassic Park]]
 +
*[[The Laundry]]
 +
*[[Lion Said]]
 +
*[[Peanut Gallery]]
 +
*[[Pipeline]]
 +
*[[Playground]]
 +
*[[Rage]]
 +
*[[Sloth]]
 +
*[[South Park]]
 +
*[[Supertubes]]
 +
*[[The Hotel]]
 +
*[[Swamp]]
 +
*[[Palace]]
 +
*[[Uriah Heep]]
 +
*[[Waterworld]]
 +
}}
 +
|-
 +
| {{#display_points:-33.811933,  20.094853|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} || [[Bosch Kloof‎]]
 +
Bosch Kloof has 10 crags and 97 Routes. You may climb at Legoland without a permit. 
 +
* All other areas require a permit which can be obtained at http://www.montaguclimbing.com/
 +
 
 
*Legoland,  
 
*Legoland,  
 
*The Far Side
 
*The Far Side
*Bosch Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
+
*Bosch Crag  
*Ramset Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
+
*Ramset Crag
*Forest Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
+
*Forest Crag
*Hilti Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
+
*Hilti Crag
*Skull Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
+
*Skull Crag
*Twin Fins - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
+
*Twin Fins
 
*The Panel Crags
 
*The Panel Crags
 
*Matrix
 
*Matrix
 
+
|-
=== [[Climbing on R62‎ | The Farm (Climbing on R62)]] ===
+
| {{#display_points:-33.836344,20.181406|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} ||  [[The Farm]]  
 
+
The Farm is approximately 9km out of Montagu and has both sport and trad routes.
=== [[Cogmans Kloof‎]] ===
+
|-
 +
| {{#display_points:-33.801013,  20.108511|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} ||  [[Cogmans Kloof‎]]  
 +
Cogmans Kloof is the kloof (gorge) which you are driving through when you are on the R62 road from Ashton to Montagu. There are many opportunities to climb on either side of the kloof, the most obvious being Cogmans Buttress, the Steeple and Bold & Beautiful Crag.
 +
{{columns-list|3|
 
* [[Bold and the Beautiful]]
 
* [[Bold and the Beautiful]]
 
* [[Cogmans Buttress]]
 
* [[Cogmans Buttress]]
Line 129: Line 120:
 
* [[The Fort]]
 
* [[The Fort]]
 
* [[The Steeple]]
 
* [[The Steeple]]
 
+
}}
=== [[Donker Kloof‎]]===
+
|-
 +
| {{#display_points:-33.779266,  20.112121|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} ||  [[Donker Kloof]]
 
*The Cauldron
 
*The Cauldron
 
*The Scoop.
 
*The Scoop.
 
+
|-
=== Guano Caves ===
+
| {{#display_points:-33.832647, 20.173591|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} ||  Guano Caves
 
+
|-
===[[Keur Kloof‎]]===
+
| {{#display_points:-33.803112,  20.100117|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} || [[Keur Kloof‎]]
 +
Coming from CT side – About 200 meters on right after you drive through the tunnel (with an old British fort on top). The are 7 individual crags and over 40 routes from which to choose. There is also a lot of scope for new route development.
 +
{{columns-list|3|
 
* [[Heaven]]
 
* [[Heaven]]
 
* [[Jamaica]]
 
* [[Jamaica]]
Line 144: Line 138:
 
* [[The Shooting Gallery]]
 
* [[The Shooting Gallery]]
 
* [[Vision]]
 
* [[Vision]]
 
+
}}
=== [[Lost World‎]]===
+
|-
 
+
| {{#display_points:-33.822876, 20.149297|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} || [[Lost World‎]]
===[[Oorlogs Kloof‎]]===
+
|-
 +
| {{#display_points:-33.711917,19.986355|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} || [[Oorlogs Kloof‎]]
 +
There are several crags in Oorlogs Kloof with +/- 40 routes. There are also a number of trad routes. Most of the walls are north facing (best visited when the weather is cooler), but some are in gulleys and a few face south (all day shade). The routes vary from 8-30m long and from slabs to overhanging walls.
 +
{{columns-list|3|
 
* Buttock Buttress
 
* Buttock Buttress
 
* Maverick Wall
 
* Maverick Wall
Line 159: Line 156:
 
* [[Canasta Buttress]]
 
* [[Canasta Buttress]]
 
* [[Seamster Buttress]]
 
* [[Seamster Buttress]]
 
+
}}
+
|}
   
+
=New Routes=
+
 
+
please put new route info here
+

Latest revision as of 13:15, 15 May 2015


Ad climbza montagu info.jpg

20130401 IMG 9877-800.jpg
Montagu
Loading map...
Latitude-33.784854
Longitude20.116596
Climbing TypeSport, Multi-pitch Sport, Trad
Rock TypeQuartzite/Sandstone
SeasonAll year round
ProvinceWestern Cape
AreaMontagu



About Montagu

Montagu is recognised as one of the most outstanding climbing destinations in South Africa due to the quality and number of climbing routes available. Montagu’s rock walls offer a wide variety of climbing opportunities at every level from beginner to expert. The charming town of Montagu is situated in the Klein Karoo (semi desert region) on the east side of the Langeberg mountain range 2 hours / 200km drive east of Cape Town. Montagu is well known for it’s hot mineral springs as well as climbing and mountain biking.

Once a sleepy little Karoo town where not much happened, the town has since transformed into a vibrant energetic holiday destination. Montagu’s hot springs were first documented in the late 1700′s. The hot spring water comes out at 43° C from a fissure estimated to be 3km deep and is unaffected by drought. In 1877, Thomas Bain built the Cogmans Kloof pass and the tunnel that trade began to develop the area. Between 1902 and 1985 the Brink Brother’s enterprises were of major significance to the town. Their activities included general dealers, bottling works, canning factory, dried fruit production and a department store. In 1936 Montagu was declared a health resort. This resulted in an influx of wealthy people purchasing holiday houses.

The Weather in Montagu

It rarely rains in Montagu (except for the occasional freak floods http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/08/2012-montagu-flood/). When Cape Town has bad weather, Montagu normally has perfect conditions for climbing.

Driving to Montagu

From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl. You have the choice of taking the tunnel (toll is R26.00) or driving over the pass which is very scenic and recommendable in good weather. Once on the other side of the mountain (you’re now in Du Toits Kloof) keep on the N1 until you pass the Shell Ultra City. Turn right and follow the signs to Robertson and then through Ashton and then onto Montagu. Be aware of speed traps in the towns (60km zones) and sometimes in the kloof before Montagu.

Accommodation for climbers in Montagu

There is accommodation in Montagu to suite any budget and style. There are two campsites in Montagu as well as many child & pet friendly self-catering holiday rentals, bed & breakfasts and hotels.

Montagu Restaurants, Pubs & Supermarkets

There are a few supermarkets in town (e.g. Spar) and restaurants in & around Montagu.

Other Activities in Montagu

Besides the great climbing, there are many other fun things to see & do around Montagu. Check out the following activites: Mountainbiking Wine Tasting Hot Springs


Classic Routes

  • The Gospel Express (17)
  • Nuclear Waste (20)
  • Wildcard(24)
  • Thruster (26)
  • Daze of Thunder (27/28)
  • Cool Like That (29)


Montagu Bolting Information

To avoid any further Altercations with land owners and incorrect equipment being used, the Montagu Mountain Committee (who are responsible for the Montagu Reserve) have asked for applications to be submitted before a new route is bolted.

Applications here: http://www.climbing.co.za/bolting-information/bolting-new-routes-montagu/


Montagu Climbing Areas

Map Area Description
Loading map...
Bad Kloof‎

Bad Kloof , “Bath” Kloof in English is the kloof between the Montagu Hot Springs towards the West side of Montagu. The are more than 20 individual crags and over 130 routes from which to choose.

Loading map...
Bosch Kloof‎

Bosch Kloof has 10 crags and 97 Routes. You may climb at Legoland without a permit.

  • Legoland,
  • The Far Side
  • Bosch Crag
  • Ramset Crag
  • Forest Crag
  • Hilti Crag
  • Skull Crag
  • Twin Fins
  • The Panel Crags
  • Matrix
Loading map...
The Farm

The Farm is approximately 9km out of Montagu and has both sport and trad routes.

Loading map...
Cogmans Kloof‎

Cogmans Kloof is the kloof (gorge) which you are driving through when you are on the R62 road from Ashton to Montagu. There are many opportunities to climb on either side of the kloof, the most obvious being Cogmans Buttress, the Steeple and Bold & Beautiful Crag.

Loading map...
Donker Kloof
  • The Cauldron
  • The Scoop.
Loading map...
Guano Caves
Loading map...
Keur Kloof‎

Coming from CT side – About 200 meters on right after you drive through the tunnel (with an old British fort on top). The are 7 individual crags and over 40 routes from which to choose. There is also a lot of scope for new route development.

Loading map...
Lost World‎
Loading map...
Oorlogs Kloof‎

There are several crags in Oorlogs Kloof with +/- 40 routes. There are also a number of trad routes. Most of the walls are north facing (best visited when the weather is cooler), but some are in gulleys and a few face south (all day shade). The routes vary from 8-30m long and from slabs to overhanging walls.

  • Buttock Buttress
  • Maverick Wall
  • Meatloaf Wall
  • Wildcard Buttress
  • Le Pique-nique Area
  • Snark Buttress
  • Cowboy Area
  • Cuts Both Ways Area
  • Tower of Babel
  • Canasta Buttress
  • Seamster Buttress