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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Climbing in Montagu}}
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{{#seo:
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        |og:site_name=Climb ZA
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        |og:type=article
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        |og:image=http://www.climbing.co.za/w/images/thumb/a/ac/20130401_IMG_9877-800.jpg/350px-20130401_IMG_9877-800.jpg
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        |article:publisher=https://www.facebook.com/pages/Climb-ZA-Rock-Climbing-South-Africa/302540184148
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        |title=Climbing in Montagu, South Africa
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        |titlemode=replace
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        |keywords=Climbing, Montagu, South Africa, Sport Climbing
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        |description=Montagu (2 hours drive east of Cape Town)is one of South Africa's top climbing destinations. Mostly single pitch sport, but also some excellent multi-pitch sport as well as trad climbing.
 +
}}
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{{Infobox Area
 
{{Infobox Area
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        | Dirlink = [[File:Ad climbza montagu info.jpg|link=http://www.climbing.co.za/directory/montagu/]]
 
         | Latitude = -33.784854
 
         | Latitude = -33.784854
 
         | Longitude = 20.116596
 
         | Longitude = 20.116596
Line 9: Line 20:
 
         | Province = Western Cape
 
         | Province = Western Cape
 
         | Area = Montagu  
 
         | Area = Montagu  
 +
        | Picture = [[File:20130401 IMG 9877-800.jpg|350px]]
  
 
}}
 
}}
 +
=About Montagu=
 
Montagu is recognised as one of the most outstanding climbing destinations in South Africa due to the quality and number of climbing routes available.  Montagu’s rock walls offer a wide variety of climbing opportunities at every level from beginner to expert.  The charming town of Montagu is situated in the Klein Karoo (semi desert region) on the east side of the Langeberg mountain range 2 hours / 200km drive east of Cape Town.  Montagu is well known for it’s hot mineral springs as well as climbing and mountain biking.
 
Montagu is recognised as one of the most outstanding climbing destinations in South Africa due to the quality and number of climbing routes available.  Montagu’s rock walls offer a wide variety of climbing opportunities at every level from beginner to expert.  The charming town of Montagu is situated in the Klein Karoo (semi desert region) on the east side of the Langeberg mountain range 2 hours / 200km drive east of Cape Town.  Montagu is well known for it’s hot mineral springs as well as climbing and mountain biking.
 
=About Montagu=
 
  
 
Once a sleepy little Karoo town where not much happened, the town has since transformed into a vibrant energetic holiday destination.  Montagu’s hot springs were first documented in the late 1700′s.  The hot spring water comes out at 43° C from a fissure estimated to be 3km deep and is unaffected by drought.  In 1877, Thomas Bain built the Cogmans Kloof pass and the tunnel that trade began to develop the area.  Between 1902 and 1985 the Brink Brother’s enterprises were of major significance to the town. Their activities included general dealers, bottling works, canning factory, dried fruit production and a department store.  In 1936 Montagu was declared a health resort. This resulted in an influx of wealthy people purchasing holiday houses.
 
Once a sleepy little Karoo town where not much happened, the town has since transformed into a vibrant energetic holiday destination.  Montagu’s hot springs were first documented in the late 1700′s.  The hot spring water comes out at 43° C from a fissure estimated to be 3km deep and is unaffected by drought.  In 1877, Thomas Bain built the Cogmans Kloof pass and the tunnel that trade began to develop the area.  Between 1902 and 1985 the Brink Brother’s enterprises were of major significance to the town. Their activities included general dealers, bottling works, canning factory, dried fruit production and a department store.  In 1936 Montagu was declared a health resort. This resulted in an influx of wealthy people purchasing holiday houses.
Line 30: Line 41:
 
=Other Activities in Montagu=
 
=Other Activities in Montagu=
  
Besides the great climbing, there are many other fun things to see & do around Montagu.
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Besides the great climbing, there are many other fun things to see & do around Montagu. Check out the following activites:
 
+
Mountainbiking
[[File:20130401 IMG 9877-800.jpg]]
+
Wine Tasting
 +
Hot Springs
  
  
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* Cool Like That (29)
 
* Cool Like That (29)
  
= Montagu Area Map =
 
<display_points type="terrain" height="500" width="800">
 
-33.711917,19.986355 | [[Oorlogs Kloof]]
 
-33.821941,20.149584 | [[Lost World]]
 
-33.814130,  20.099668|Forest
 
-33.814506,  20.100920|Twin Fins
 
-33.814052,  20.097529|Hilti
 
-33.812413,  20.097465|Ramset
 
-33.813149,  20.096663|Bosch
 
-33.814032,  20.092526|The Panel
 
-33.813778,  20.091539|Legoland
 
-33.781209,  20.114446|Montagu Mountain Reserve Reception - Paypoint
 
-33.813309,  20.101642|Skull
 
-33.814223,  20.089030|The Far Side
 
-33.802166,  20.095198|The Fort
 
-33.793572,  20.102257|The Bold & The Beautiful
 
-33.793292,  20.102420|The Alley
 
-33.797866,  20.101620|The Steeple
 
-33.801013,  20.108511|[[Cogmans Buttress]]
 
-33.804586,  20.108977|Eagles Folly Buttress
 
-33.800198,  20.108959|Castle in the Sky
 
-33.809996,  20.098951|The Matrix
 
-33.806475,  20.106508|The Shooting Gallery
 
-33.803112,  20.100117|Keur Kloof Entrance
 
-33.812488,  20.105046|The Rose Bowl
 
-33.811838,  20.107850|Joe's Garage
 
-33.813347,  20.111308|Vision
 
-33.816498,  20.120413|Heaven
 
-33.811933,  20.094853|Entrance to Bosch Kloof
 
-33.783410,  20.099196|The Scoop
 
-33.779165,  20.112353|Eyssenhuis
 
-33.782461,  20.101328|Klipspringer Hut
 
-33.776248,  20.116096|Waterworld
 
-33.775864,  20.116799|Peanut Gallery
 
-33.775253,  20.117633|Sloth
 
-33.774655,  20.118121|Supertubes
 
-33.774854,  20.117176|Lion Said
 
-33.776000,  20.114984|The Penthouse
 
-33.773043,  20.120942|The Palace
 
-33.773276,  20.120052|South Park
 
-33.774591,  20.119560|The Pipeline
 
-33.771811,  20.118502|The Swamp
 
-33.771814,  20.117901|The Playground
 
-33.769928,  20.114097|Berlin Wall
 
-33.769408,  20.115578|Jurassic Park
 
-33.769769,  20.115271|Worlds Apart
 
-33.771515,  20.116188|Uriah Heap
 
-33.780232,  20.103545|The Cauldron
 
-33.779266,  20.112121|Donkerkloof Entrance
 
-33.836344,20.181406|[[Climbing on R62‎]]
 
</display_points>
 
  
 
=Montagu Bolting Information =
 
=Montagu Bolting Information =
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= Montagu Climbing Areas =
 
= Montagu Climbing Areas =
  
===[[Bad Kloof]]===
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 +
{| class="wikitable"
 +
|-
 +
! Map !! Area Description
 +
|-
 +
| {{#display_points:-33.779165, 20.112353|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} || [[Bad Kloof‎]]
 
Bad Kloof , “Bath” Kloof in English is the kloof between the Montagu Hot Springs towards the West side of Montagu. The are more than 20 individual crags and over 130 routes from which to choose.
 
Bad Kloof , “Bath” Kloof in English is the kloof between the Montagu Hot Springs towards the West side of Montagu. The are more than 20 individual crags and over 130 routes from which to choose.
*Berlin Wall  
+
{{columns-list|3|
*Jurrasic Park
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*[[The Arete]]
*Laundry
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*[[The Bastard]]
*Lion Said
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*[[Berlin Wall]]
*Peanut Gallery
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*[[Camelot]]
*Pipeline
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*[[The Hotel]]
*Playground
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*[[Jurassic Park]]
*Rage
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*[[The Laundry]]
*Sloth
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*[[Lion Said]]
*South Park
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*[[Lover's Lane]]
*Supertubes
+
*[[Peanut Gallery]]
*The Hotel
+
*[[Pipeline]]
*The Swamp
+
*[[Playground]]
*The Palace
+
*[[Rage]]
*Uriah Heep
+
*[[Sloth]]
 +
*[[South Park]]
 +
*[[Supertubes]]
 +
*[[Swamp]]
 +
*[[Palace]]
 +
*[[Uriah Heep]]
 
*[[Waterworld]]
 
*[[Waterworld]]
 
+
*[[Worlds Apart]]
===[[Bosch Kloof‎]]===
+
}}
Bosch Kloof has 10 crags and 97 Routes. You MAY climb at: Legoland & The Far Side & The Panel For now, Please NO Climbing at: Bosch, Ramset, Hilti, Forest, Twin Fins, Skull
+
|-
*Legoland,
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| {{#display_points:-33.811933,  20.094853|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} || [[Bosch Kloof‎]]
*The Far Side
+
Bosch Kloof has 10 crags and 97 Routes. You may climb at Legoland without a permit. 
*Bosch Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
+
* All other areas require a permit which can be obtained at http://www.montaguclimbing.com/
*Ramset Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
+
{{columns-list|3|
*Forest Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
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*[[Bosch Crag]]
*Hilti Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
+
*[[The Far Side Montagu|The Far Side]]
*Skull Crag - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
+
*[[Forest Crag]]
*Twin Fins - ACCESS FORBIDDEN
+
*[[Hilti Crag]]
*The Panel Crags
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*[[Legoland]]
*Matrix
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*[[Matrix]]
 
+
*[[The Panel Crags]]
=== [[Climbing on R62‎ | The Farm (Climbing on R62)]] ===
+
*[[Ramset Crag]]
Climbing on R62 is approx. 9km out of Montagu and has both sport and trad routes.
+
*[[Twin Fins]]
 
+
*[[Skull Crag]]
=== [[Cogmans Kloof‎]] ===
+
}}
 +
|-
 +
| {{#display_points:-33.836344,20.181406|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} ||  [[The Farm]]  
 +
The Farm is approximately 9km out of Montagu and has both sport and trad routes.
 +
|-
 +
| {{#display_points:-33.801013,  20.108511|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} ||  [[Cogmans Kloof‎]]  
 
Cogmans Kloof is the kloof (gorge) which you are driving through when you are on the R62 road from Ashton to Montagu. There are many opportunities to climb on either side of the kloof, the most obvious being Cogmans Buttress, the Steeple and Bold & Beautiful Crag.
 
Cogmans Kloof is the kloof (gorge) which you are driving through when you are on the R62 road from Ashton to Montagu. There are many opportunities to climb on either side of the kloof, the most obvious being Cogmans Buttress, the Steeple and Bold & Beautiful Crag.
 +
{{columns-list|3|
 
* [[Bold and the Beautiful]]
 
* [[Bold and the Beautiful]]
 +
* [[Castles in the Sky]]
 
* [[Cogmans Buttress]]
 
* [[Cogmans Buttress]]
 
* [[Eagle's Folly Buttress]]
 
* [[Eagle's Folly Buttress]]
Line 149: Line 127:
 
* [[The Fort]]
 
* [[The Fort]]
 
* [[The Steeple]]
 
* [[The Steeple]]
 
+
}}
=== [[Donker Kloof‎]]===
+
|-
*The Cauldron
+
| {{#display_points:-33.779266,  20.112121|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} ||  [[Donker Kloof]]
*The Scoop.
+
* [[The Cauldron]]
 
+
* [[The Scoop]]
=== Guano Caves ===
+
|-
 
+
| {{#display_points:-33.832647, 20.173591|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} ||  [[Guano Caves]]
===[[Keur Kloof‎]]===
+
|-
 +
| {{#display_points:-33.803112,  20.100117|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} || [[Keur Kloof‎]]
 
Coming from CT side – About 200 meters on right after you drive through the tunnel (with an old British fort on top). The are 7 individual crags and over 40 routes from which to choose. There is also a lot of scope for new route development.
 
Coming from CT side – About 200 meters on right after you drive through the tunnel (with an old British fort on top). The are 7 individual crags and over 40 routes from which to choose. There is also a lot of scope for new route development.
 +
{{columns-list|3|
 
* [[Heaven]]
 
* [[Heaven]]
 
* [[Jamaica]]
 
* [[Jamaica]]
Line 165: Line 145:
 
* [[The Shooting Gallery]]
 
* [[The Shooting Gallery]]
 
* [[Vision]]
 
* [[Vision]]
 
+
}}
=== [[Lost World‎]]===
+
|-
 
+
| {{#display_points:-33.822876, 20.149297|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} || [[Lost World‎]]
===[[Oorlogs Kloof‎]]===
+
|-
 +
| {{#display_points:-33.711917,19.986355|height=200|width=300||type=terrain|controls=zoom|zoom=11}} || [[Oorlogs Kloof‎]]
 
There are several crags in Oorlogs Kloof with +/- 40 routes. There are also a number of trad routes. Most of the walls are north facing (best visited when the weather is cooler), but some are in gulleys and a few face south (all day shade). The routes vary from 8-30m long and from slabs to overhanging walls.
 
There are several crags in Oorlogs Kloof with +/- 40 routes. There are also a number of trad routes. Most of the walls are north facing (best visited when the weather is cooler), but some are in gulleys and a few face south (all day shade). The routes vary from 8-30m long and from slabs to overhanging walls.
 +
{{columns-list|3|
 
* Buttock Buttress
 
* Buttock Buttress
 
* Maverick Wall
 
* Maverick Wall
Line 181: Line 163:
 
* [[Canasta Buttress]]
 
* [[Canasta Buttress]]
 
* [[Seamster Buttress]]
 
* [[Seamster Buttress]]
 +
}}
 +
|}

Latest revision as of 20:32, 1 March 2016


Ad climbza montagu info.jpg

20130401 IMG 9877-800.jpg
Montagu
Loading map...
Latitude-33.784854
Longitude20.116596
Climbing TypeSport, Multi-pitch Sport, Trad
Rock TypeQuartzite/Sandstone
SeasonAll year round
ProvinceWestern Cape
AreaMontagu



About Montagu

Montagu is recognised as one of the most outstanding climbing destinations in South Africa due to the quality and number of climbing routes available. Montagu’s rock walls offer a wide variety of climbing opportunities at every level from beginner to expert. The charming town of Montagu is situated in the Klein Karoo (semi desert region) on the east side of the Langeberg mountain range 2 hours / 200km drive east of Cape Town. Montagu is well known for it’s hot mineral springs as well as climbing and mountain biking.

Once a sleepy little Karoo town where not much happened, the town has since transformed into a vibrant energetic holiday destination. Montagu’s hot springs were first documented in the late 1700′s. The hot spring water comes out at 43° C from a fissure estimated to be 3km deep and is unaffected by drought. In 1877, Thomas Bain built the Cogmans Kloof pass and the tunnel that trade began to develop the area. Between 1902 and 1985 the Brink Brother’s enterprises were of major significance to the town. Their activities included general dealers, bottling works, canning factory, dried fruit production and a department store. In 1936 Montagu was declared a health resort. This resulted in an influx of wealthy people purchasing holiday houses.

The Weather in Montagu

It rarely rains in Montagu (except for the occasional freak floods http://www.climbing.co.za/2012/08/2012-montagu-flood/). When Cape Town has bad weather, Montagu normally has perfect conditions for climbing.

Driving to Montagu

From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl. You have the choice of taking the tunnel (toll is R26.00) or driving over the pass which is very scenic and recommendable in good weather. Once on the other side of the mountain (you’re now in Du Toits Kloof) keep on the N1 until you pass the Shell Ultra City. Turn right and follow the signs to Robertson and then through Ashton and then onto Montagu. Be aware of speed traps in the towns (60km zones) and sometimes in the kloof before Montagu.

Accommodation for climbers in Montagu

There is accommodation in Montagu to suite any budget and style. There are two campsites in Montagu as well as many child & pet friendly self-catering holiday rentals, bed & breakfasts and hotels.

Montagu Restaurants, Pubs & Supermarkets

There are a few supermarkets in town (e.g. Spar) and restaurants in & around Montagu.

Other Activities in Montagu

Besides the great climbing, there are many other fun things to see & do around Montagu. Check out the following activites: Mountainbiking Wine Tasting Hot Springs


Classic Routes

  • The Gospel Express (17)
  • Nuclear Waste (20)
  • Wildcard(24)
  • Thruster (26)
  • Daze of Thunder (27/28)
  • Cool Like That (29)


Montagu Bolting Information

To avoid any further Altercations with land owners and incorrect equipment being used, the Montagu Mountain Committee (who are responsible for the Montagu Reserve) have asked for applications to be submitted before a new route is bolted.

Applications here: http://www.climbing.co.za/bolting-information/bolting-new-routes-montagu/


Montagu Climbing Areas

Map Area Description
Loading map...
Bad Kloof‎

Bad Kloof , “Bath” Kloof in English is the kloof between the Montagu Hot Springs towards the West side of Montagu. The are more than 20 individual crags and over 130 routes from which to choose.

Loading map...
Bosch Kloof‎

Bosch Kloof has 10 crags and 97 Routes. You may climb at Legoland without a permit.

Loading map...
The Farm

The Farm is approximately 9km out of Montagu and has both sport and trad routes.

Loading map...
Cogmans Kloof‎

Cogmans Kloof is the kloof (gorge) which you are driving through when you are on the R62 road from Ashton to Montagu. There are many opportunities to climb on either side of the kloof, the most obvious being Cogmans Buttress, the Steeple and Bold & Beautiful Crag.

Loading map...
Donker Kloof
Loading map...
Guano Caves
Loading map...
Keur Kloof‎

Coming from CT side – About 200 meters on right after you drive through the tunnel (with an old British fort on top). The are 7 individual crags and over 40 routes from which to choose. There is also a lot of scope for new route development.

Loading map...
Lost World‎
Loading map...
Oorlogs Kloof‎

There are several crags in Oorlogs Kloof with +/- 40 routes. There are also a number of trad routes. Most of the walls are north facing (best visited when the weather is cooler), but some are in gulleys and a few face south (all day shade). The routes vary from 8-30m long and from slabs to overhanging walls.

  • Buttock Buttress
  • Maverick Wall
  • Meatloaf Wall
  • Wildcard Buttress
  • Le Pique-nique Area
  • Snark Buttress
  • Cowboy Area
  • Cuts Both Ways Area
  • Tower of Babel
  • Canasta Buttress
  • Seamster Buttress