New Born 29
GENERAL & GEAR
New Born is the only sport route at Yellowwood (as of 2009). It was originally bolted by Sean Maasch in the nineties. Jeremy Samson added more bolts in 2007 and opened the route. The route is in the sun from about 11h30. Rock quality is generally excellent. The route has not seen much traffic, so there are still some hollow flakes and precariously balanced rocks around.
You'll need a 60m sport rope and 18 draws to climb and descend Newborn to the halfway ledge (will update once the upper pitches have been explored). No pitch is longer than 30m, some are much shorter. All stances have bolted belays. Bolts are spaced on easy ground, but close when the climbing gets harder. The first two pitches can be combined to save time. The third and forth pitches can also be combined, but bear in mind that pitch four ends at a hanging belay. All other pitches finish on comfortable ledges.
The route starts approximately 20m right of Show Time. Two large, white boulders mark the spot at the base of the cliff.
- PITCH 1 (17): Easy climbing over gentle ground. Watch out for loose rock.
- PITCH 2 (19): Short, easy pitch. Can be combined with the first pitch.
- PITCH 3 (25): Thin crux section, then easy ground.
- PITCH 4 (23/4): Short pitch with great, sustained, technical climbing.
- PITCH 5 (27): Traverse right from the stance, turn the lip and come back left (tricky). Blast through another roof and up to the stance. Pack's a punch.
- PITCH 6 (26): Tricky face climbing leads to an open book and easier ground. The first move is harder for shorties.
- PITCH 7-14: There are grade 29 pitches above the halfway ledge. Descriptions to follow.
Rapping down the route is complicated by roofs and diagonal pitches, so remember to clip in on the way down. Trailing a second rope or twinning two 60m trad ropes allows for a fast descent via Down Time.
BE WARNED - IT IS EASY TO COCK THIS ABSEIL UP AND HAVE A NICE OLD EPIC
Towards the right hand side of the upper amphitheatre is a massive open book. Armageddon Time climbs the headwall to the right of this. The first anchors are on a ledge about 4m below the top, and 25m left of the massive open book.
- Rap 1: 40m. Rap off 2 bolts with equalized mailons. Straight down, past an overhang. Free-hanging for a bit. When you touch rock again place a #0.75 cam in a vertical slot and clip the rope in short. This will get you past the next bulge. The anchors are just beneath the bulge on a blank hanging stance.
- Rap 2: 30m. Rap off two bolts with nice long chains on them. Straight down to a ledge. Completely free-hanging rap. You can just reach the ledge if you lean out. The next anchors are just to the left.
- Rap 3: 60m. Rap off 2 bolts equalized with tat and leaver biners. Bring your own extra tat and biners if you're nervous. Straight down to the jumbo halfway ledge. Normal 60m ropes will just make this abseil to the upper ledge. Scramble down 3m to the lower ledge to find the next anchors.
- Rap 4: !!!63m!!! NORMAL 60M ROPES WILL BE TOO SHORT AND YOU WILL HAVE TO SACRIFICE SOME GEAR. Rap off two bolts. The lower bolt has a single chain which is backed up by a mailon to the upper bolt. The mailon cannot be screwed closed. Back this up if you are nervous. Straight down to a small ledge.
- Rap 5: !!!70m!!! Rap off two bolts equalized with maillons. Be careful how you thread the rope because it will get stuck if you cock it up. Normal 60m ropes will get you to a massive flake with an old piton behind it. You can then rap off this to the ground. The piton can be backed up by a wire if you're nervous, but all the gear is behind the same flake. Hmmmm? If you have 70m ropes you will reach a single bolt, or the ledge just below it.
- Rap 6: 10m. Either rap off the piton, or off the single bolt with a leaver biner, or scrable off to the right from the ledge.