Play Time 19 ******
Start View the topo on the photograph. The buttress on which this route is situated is a 12 minute walk down to the left of the main Yellowwood wall.
Play Time 19
P Pitch 1 16 (50m.)
Start 4m right of Divine Time. Climb up onto the block and do a high step through the undercut onto the face. Continue to below the overhang and step onto the arête. Continue straight up to the ledge and walk left past the base of the grey pillar to a stance.
- Pitch 2 18 (35m.)
Avoid the vegetated corner on the right and climb the grey clean crack to the dassie ledge. If you can reach the holds place a good nut and 1.5in cam and crank up to jugs and continue to a narrow ledge. (Avoid the crank by moving to the grey pillar on the right and then back left – not very aesthetic.) Walk left along the ledge a few metres. (Remember to leave a directional piece for your second.) Climb the polished white and orange rock tending up left to stance in the cubbyhole.
- Pitch 3 19 (30m)
Climb out right of the cubbyhole to a recess. Move up right out of the recess. Climb up diagonally left past an excellent finger lock to a below a large jammed flake. Lay back past the flake as is this the easiest way to do this – just trust your feet. Continue up tending a little right to stance right below the roof on the right.
- Pitch 4 18 (45m)
Climb straight up for about 3m and then up the flakes for another 3m. Traverse right 4m under the thin overhang to a ledge. Place some gear on the right and then negotiate a move back left to find good jugs. (Do not climb the crack on the right – loose rock.) Continue up the face staying 3m left of the dihedral on the right and then move right to the arête when 3m or so below the large overhang. Continue up the chimney crack to stance level with the large yellowwood bush seen on the right on Divine Time.
- Pitch 5 16 (30m)
Climb inside the chimney or outside on the flakes and continue straight up to the top.
Beta: This route is climbable after rain but it is harder (20/21) but still safe. You will find lots of wet holds that make the footholds seem very insecure. The gear is really good where you need it to be. It is still Yellowwood so it needs a few more ascents before all the loose rock and fragile holds are gone.
On the third pitch, once you are in the recess do not exit it on its left. It really is not that tricky going right and much cleaner and easier. The climbing is really excellent. Going left lands you in hard scary choss. The large flake has been tested but there is no guarantee that it will not pull out. Use with care and lay back past it - that is the safe and easy way to do it. Enjoy. We did!
FA Play Time : C Edelstein and Deon Van Zyl 22 March 2014
(See Topo on photograph of Divine Time which is also on the WIKI)
Descent is an elegant and relatively safe 4 or 5 abseils. 60m ropes are recommended.
Walk horizontally 60m over blocks then bushes past the gulley and then blocks to find a thread below.
1. Abseil about 15m to a large ledge. 2. Look around at the back of the ledge and find a threaded rap point and biner. Abseil 40m or so and you find a point over a horn kept in place by a rock. It is easier to pull the rope from here. 3. There is another sling point over a horn about 20m lower and a bit to the left. (You can combine abseil 2 and 3 but pulling the rope down is then quite strenuous. What works well is if the first person to descend stays at the first sling point and then sorts out the rope which is usually twisted. Then the rest of the party can combine abseil 2 and 3. And then while they sort out the next point the person who abseiled first can come down on one of the ropes. 4. Abseil about 40m to an obvious ledge system and look to the left past a bush for a threaded rap point with a leaver biner . 5. Abseil about 45m to the ground.
OR use the DOWN TIME Rap Route Or walk all the way round.