Radioactive

From South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki
Revision as of 11:11, 16 January 2009 by Toprope (Talk | contribs)

(diff) ← Older revision | Latest revision (diff) | Newer revision → (diff)
Jump to: navigation, search

Link to map on climbing.co.za forum, credit Andrew Porter


Ground Zero


From the entrance gate, follow the main road down towards the river. Keep right at the split in the road and drive into the main recreational area. The crag lies to your right.


CHAIN REACTION 16 *** [N]
Facing the crag walk toward its left side, up on the ledge you will walk through some bushes. Keep an eye out for an obvious corner crack with a bit of a face on its left. Climb this crack for about 30m to a large ledge with a good belay.

First ascent: 2003 Rory Lowther, Chris Rudolph and Tammy Viljoen.

CHINA SYNDROME 14 [N]
1. 35m Above the right-most braai on the left side of the crag there is a clean right-facing corner with a hand-size crack, and a well-defined chimney above and slightly left. Climb the corner/crack until it becomes possible to step left around the arête onto a ramping series of ledges, leading up to the chimney. Climb the chimney easily to stance at a huge tree right at the top. Descend by walking to the climber’s left until a grassy slope leads easily down.
First ascent: 30 Nov 2003 Dylan Morgan and Karin King.

CLOUD OF FEAR 15 ** [N]
Round about the center of the crag there is an broken crack heading rightward, follow this over a ledge and you will see an prominent vertical crack about 15m long, climb this to a ledge at about 37m off ground.
First ascent: 2003 Rory Lowther, Chris Rudolph and Tammy Viljoen.

NUKED BABOON 16 *** [N]
10m to the right of CLOUD OF FEAR, just to the left of and extruding arête. Start just below a thin crack which is about 6m of the ground, climb towards it then over a ledge and follow the arête above a dead tree up to a big ledge with medium size tree at 25m off ground to belay off.
First ascent: 2003 Rory Lowther and Rance McIntyre.

ATOM AND EVE 14 *** [N]
On the right side of the crag, behind the men’s side of the toilets you will see a large flake with wide crack and face on its left. Climb this crack and then move out right onto the face above keep climbing to stance on the edge of the large ramp 30m off ground.
First ascent: 2003 Rory Lowther, Tammy Viljoen

HALF-LIFE 14 [N]
1. 15m Ten metres to the right of the bridge near the pool, three right-facing corners are just visible from the ground. The left is heavily vegetated, and the right is poorly defined. This leaves the middle to be climbed, with a thought-provoking move to top out directly, thankfully just above a good tree runner. Belay from slung bushes and a tree. Descend by moving 30m climber’s left until a gully can be scrambled down.
First ascent: 30 Nov 2003 Dylan Morgan and Karin King.


Hiroshima Crag


From the entrance gate, drive along the tar road for about 200m, then turn left onto a dirt road. Take the first right and follow the road until a point where the road splits into 3. There is a sign here ‘Starting Point’. Take the leftmost track and wind your way for about 500m down to the river. This track is narrow and if you are worried about scratching the paint of your car, it is suggested that you walk this section, parking at the split in the roads. As you approach the river, just after a section of scree to you left, you will see the Hiroshima crag to your left. There is a white square piece of metal 1m x 1m at the base of the crag in its centre.

Routes are listed from left to right on the crag.

ELECTRON 17 *** [5B, A]
First ascent: 2003 Chris Rudolph BB: Rory Lowther.

PROTON 17 *** [5B, A]
First ascent: 2003 Rory Lowther.

TOTAL DISASTER 14 *** [4B, A]
First ascent: 2003 Rory Lowther.

NUCLEAR FUSION 14 *** [4B, A]
First ascent: 2003 Chris Rudolph.

RADIOACTIVE ISOTOPES 15 ** [5B, A]
First ascent: 2003 Chris Rudolph BB: Rory Lowther.

POWER OF PLUTONIUM 20 *** [5B, A]
First ascent: 2003 Rory Lowther

Nagasaki Crag


As for Hiroshima, but follow the good path /road for 100m more, then around a corner heading rightward. You are now just above the river bank. Follow this for a 100m where you will see the crag on your right.

MAGGLET RUNS IN TAKKIES 14 *** [8D]
Start around the arête from VISIONS OF NUCLEAR DOOM below a roof 5m up. Stem the recess, move left through the break, and then climb the pleasant face above to chains.
First ascent: Peter Adrian BB: Peter Adrian and Roland Magg.

VISIONS OF NUCLEAR DOOM 12 *** [8D]
Starts 5m right of MAGGLET RUNS IN TAKKIES. This is the only climb at the crag to have its name written on the rock at the base of the route. Climb the crack just right of the arête. A little steep at the top – go for it!
First ascent: Diane Avranitakis BB: Peter Adrian.

NOT FOR CHICKS 15+ ** [9D]
5m right of VISIONS OF NUCLEAR DOOM, in the corner where the block juts out from the main crag. Crank your way to the top of the face, when it feels like grade 19, exit left.
First ascent: Marc Echstein BB: Peter Adrian and Nicholas Grech-Cumbo.

EASY PEASY PROTON PIE 13* [N]
The first route on the main face, next to NOT FOR CHICKS. Start in the corner, and climb a series of ledges to a wide recess, with a crack in the middle. Climb the crack to the top with tree belay. Beware of loose rocks at the top.
First ascent: Peter Adrian and Nicholas Grech-Cumbo.

IGNORE THE FIRST 10CM 19 * [10D]
Clips the first bolt of GREY IMPORTS then moves left up the face, up through two overhangs, and finishes on easier rock at the top. The name refers to the first 10cm of glue that flows from the Fischer glue gun, which leads to boltless holes near the top.
First ascent: Peter Holdt BB: Peter Adrian and Roland Magg.

GREY IMPORTS 17 [12D]
Climbs a grey face a few meters left of NO ROPE AS LONG AS TIME, then move right, through a break, onto easier rock.
First ascent: Roland Magg.

NO ROPE AS LONG AS TIME 19 [6D]
Climbs a crack system about 3m left of the PARTICLE ACCELERATOR chimney.
First ascent: Roland Magg

PARTICLE ACCELERATOR 14 *** [N]
In the middle of the crag is an obvious chimney, climb this for 30m to a stance below a medium sized tree at the top of the crag.
First ascent: 2003 Rory Lowther and Rance McIntyre.

ILLUMINATI 16 *** [9D]
Climbs the crack line 2m right of the PARTICLE ACCELERATOR chimney.
First ascent: Roland Magg

FABRICATED EMOTIONS 21 *** [10D]
Start up a thin face with technical climbing up a shallow break. Pull through the triangular roof above on the right and climb to top.
First ascent: Roland Magg

DANGER OF IMPLOSION 20 *** [9D]
Starts 2m left of SLAVE TO THE WEST. Thin face moves take you past the first 4 bolts to reach a good ledge. Climb the face right of the tree and then pull through the roof on the right hand side of the arête.
First ascent: 2003 Rory Lowther,

SLAVE TO THE WEST 19 ** [9D]
Start 5m left of a small left facing corner at ground level. Climb the orange face above to the ledge. Continue up steep rock to the top.
First ascent: Roland Magg
Thanks to Andrew Porter for the above route info.


This area used to be closed to climbing - please treat it and the land owners with respect to ensure we as climbers continue to have access.


Cool place to spend a day, not as good or varied as Bronkies, but closer to JHB and 5mins from Harties.

Maps


Roadmap:
RadioActiveByRoad.jpg
Trail map: (I'm not sure where the trad area is, feel free to add/change the map)
RadioActiveCrags.jpg


The above info has been taken from the "Crocodile river / Radioactive crags access" thread on the forum See: http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?p=17072#p17072&sid=74158c3901a50dc59ccbbf07c56974cd