|Climbing Type||Trad and Sport|
|Season||All year round|
How to get there
From Cape Town, get onto the N1 towards Paarl, then take the N7 turnoff towards Malmesbury. Stay on this road past Piketberg and over the mountain pass. About 25 minutes past Citrusdal, take the Cedarberg; Algeria turnoff. Follow this dirt road (past Algeria campsite) for another +- 33 Kms until you get to Dwarsrivier farm. (normally about a 45 minute drive).
Fees & Permits
Contact details for Sanddrif Campsite:
- Tel: +27 (0)27 482 2825
- Fax: +27 (0)27 482 1188
- Email: email@example.com
- Web: www.cederbergwine.com
You must obtain a permit to go up to the cracks area. You can obtain a permit at the Sanddrif reception desk (you need one if you are going walking as well) or you can contact MCSA in Cape Town.
Accommodation & Food
The last big town you pass is Citrusdal, this town or the petrol station (100 meters after the turnoff to Citrusdal) is the last place to grab any supplies. Camping at Wolfberg (Sanddrif Campsite) is extremely pleasant, with a big green field for tents. There are fireplaces and hot showers/toilet facilities. Cottages are available, sleep six people and supply the following: Basic cooking utensils, eating crockery/cutlery, fridge with a small freezer, beds (no bedding). The area does get visited a lot so you should definitely book before going out (especially holidays). You need to take your own food for the duration of your trip. As this is a wine farm, excellent wine is available by the bottle or case (this can lead to late starts however!)
Stay at Sanddrif Campsite. The owners stay at Dwarsrivier Farm, just up the road. A small selection of food is available and excellent selection of wine can be bought at the reception office. Fire wood is also available. Click here for Sanddrif / Wolfberg Accommodation
Attractions & Activities
Superb quality Trad climbing on hard sandstone, gear placements are solid. Multi Pitch Trad Routes on stunning rocks and a sport crag at the base. The drive is +/- 2½ hours drive from Cape Town up the N7 highway and the a 45 minute drive on a dirt road. A 45min walk gets you to the base of the climbing. There is good bouldering in the Valley of the Gods. There are many places to go for a swim, one of the best spots however is Malgat.
The Rock is Superb quality Sandstone. The climbing is multi pitch using Trad gear. The routes are typically between four and seven pitches long. The rock is awesome compact sandstone with great friction. Once you have summitted, you will need to walk back down (you may also have to jump a small crevasse :). The walk up to the climbing area can be anything from 20 to 60 minutes depending. Ask at Reception where the path starts (very straightforward). Some of the routes offer an awesome amount of exposure (suck it up while you can). Grades vary from 3/10 - 7a+/25.
At the bottom of the mountain is a sport crag called 'Sanddrif' there are a number of bolted routes there.
Sanddrif Crag has some great easier (up to grade 22/23) routes - its a five star climbing venue!
From the last route in Western Cape Rock guide on the left of the crag "impaled on the wall" go left 5 meters
Starting in the chimney crack is Bananarama 6 bolts grade (18)
Ayoba.....for Petes sake (21) First three bolts of Bananarama then step left and follow bolts to the top of wall
Venus (20) 7 bolts
Way left about 18 meters is Monkey Love 5 bolts (16)
A further 3 meters to the left is Milo Monkey 5 bolts (17)
From the last route in Western Cape Rock guide on the right of the crag go right 5 meters
Finding Neo 9 bolts (23)
Main Wall - Middle sector
Watchtower Reverb (20) - P and A McCann 12/2016
Go up Watchtower, after exiting open book, traverse left (use long sling to reduce rope drag), continue up.
Madam Beast (21) - P and A McCann 12/2016
Bolted line between Watchtower and Lip Service (finishes on Watchtower from second last Watchtower bolt). Middle third of route and finish overlaps Beastmaster, a route opened up by John Orrock and Jono Fisher in 1988.
BeastTower (20) - A combo of Madam Beast, Watchtower and Watchtower Reverb. Start on Madam Beast, move to Watchtower just before middle ledge and then onto Reverb. 30 metres of excellent climbing. Thanks to Brian and Margo for spotting the combo
- Pixie Dust (15) Scott Miller 2012 (not on topo below, 3 meters right of information superhighway)
- Information Superhighway (15) Scott Miller 2011
- MILF (21) Scott Miller 2011
- Arachniphobia (22) Adnan Awad 2011
- U-turn (16) Justin Lawson 2011
- Lunatic Fringe (20) Scott Miller 2012 (not on topo below, about 5 meters left of U-turn)
- The Gruffalo (18) Scott Miller 2011