This is the single pitch crag that runs left from Llandudno Corner. The routes are the sneaky type that look short and simple until you get on them, and realise they actually climb better (and longer) than you might expect.
Great winter crag, or morning summer crag as the sun does come around lunch time. Excellent crag in the South Easter. If you're looking for a new Facebook Profile Picture we recommend Deep Blue.
Until we settle on the names of the various walls the area is broken up as following: there are 3 tiers, with the main path taking you to the middle tier:
The bottom tier offers the fewest number of routes, but some of the best climbing and is a great place to remember when the cloud is hanging low over the mountains.
Middle Tier offers the largest quantity of single pitch routes in a wide range of grades and styles. unfortunately the wall isn't uniformly good, and many of the routes are excellent for the bottom 3/4, but often the last 5m climbs over messy rock- typically Lychenous.
Top Tier is really an extension of Bee Buttress herself, but approached a different way. She offers 1-4 pitch lines in excellent quality.
[Deep Blue Wall]
== [Lourie's Nest] ==
This wall has a blank looking roof about a third the way up it, marked with a lourie silhouette feature in the middle.
Descent: There is a large boulder above Bird in the Hand with abseil tat.
Bird in the Hand (26) ***
Rad line marred by an weak finish. Start under the right end of an obvious step-thru overhang. Negotiate this, then head slightly left to an obvious cream block at the base of the imposing roof. Climb thru the Lourie silhoutte to gain the lip of the cave, then (after recovering) follow the buttress above until it terminates maybe 7m short of the top of the crag. Don't be tempted by the open book to your right as there are things in there best left alone!
FA: W Gans, October 2016
This slab looking wall lies between an arete to its right and a prominent open book to the left and offers some fun easier routes.
Between the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea 16 **
The open book on the left of the wall. Cross to the left side of the open book and top out at the top of the crag. FA: W. Gans and Y. Cloete Oct 2016
Tigris (21) and Euphrates (19)***
Take the crack thru the stripes! Starts about 3m left of the right end of the crag. Like the real thing Euphrates and Tigris share a few moves at the bottom, however unlike those Mesopotamian rivers the Tigris takes the left line (those stripes needed to be stroked), while the Euphrates dances up the Arette before merging again with the Tigris to wonder right, past a tree (a shame its not a Date palm really) to a prominent ledge.
FA: W.Gans ( Tigris) and L. Eberhard (Euphrates) winter 2016.