This is the single pitch crag that runs left from Llandudno Corner. The routes are the sneaky type that look short and simple until you get on them, and realise they actually climb better (and longer) than you might expect.
Great winter crag, or morning summer crag as the sun does come around lunch time. Excellent crag in the South Easter. If you're looking for a new Facebook Profile Picture we recommend Deep Blue.
Until we settle on the names of the various walls the area is broken up as following: there are 3 tiers, with the main path taking you to the middle tier:
The bottom tier offers the fewest number of routes, but some of the best climbing and is a great place to remember when the cloud is hanging low over the mountains.
Middle Tier offers the largest quantity of single pitch routes in a wide range of grades and styles. unfortunately the wall isn't uniformly good, and many of the routes are excellent for the bottom 3/4, but often the last 5m climbs over messy rock- typically Lychenous.
Top Tier is really an extension of Bee Buttress herself, but approached a different way. She offers 1-4 pitch lines in excellent quality.
- 1 Deep Blue Wall
- 2 Amphitheater
- 3 Lourie's Nest
- 4 Mesopotamia Wall
Deep Blue Wall
The best looking wall of the middle Tier, especially at sunset! a set of fine lines will keep you entertained with interesting starts and beautiful scenery. The Routes below are written right to left
=== Descent ===
There is tat at the top of Deep Blue, however you can walk off the top by a vague path heading towards Hout Bay.
Deep Blue (22) ****
Takes the obvious crack about 5m left of the Arete. Bring a cameraman for an amazing profile Pic!
FA J. Lanz, sometime ago
Steven's Face Route
Start in the bottomless right facing open book, then run up the face- don't get sucked into either of them- even when you really really want to! The line keeps prety much straight and ends as the head wall tends left.
FA: S. Cunnane 2016
Lay-Back Crack (19) ***
The big obvious right facing crack. Been open for ages!
Right Open Book 19
a surprizingly tricky route, but well worth your time. FA Unknown
Left Open Book
What a keeper! follow the enourmous open book at the right end of the Ampitheatre to a break at the base of steeper ground. Step Right and charge forth through the chandelier of rock to a small facy finish. Traverse right at the hanging garden to find a tatted touchstone for a sweet descent. To come to this crag and not climbing this route would be a shame.
FA Unknown, but long time ago. Anyone know the name?
Richards improbable 24
Ants Rad line 21
Richards Cover Shot
This wall has a blank looking roof about a third the way up it, marked with a lourie silhouette feature in the middle.
Descent: There is a large boulder above Bird in the Hand with abseil tat.
Bird in the Hand (26) ***
Rad line thru horizontal ground. Start under the right end of an obvious step-thru overhang. Negotiate this, then head slightly left to an obvious cream block at the base of the imposing roof. Gain the Lourie silhouette before hatching out to the lip of the cave, then (after preening) follow the buttress above until it terminates maybe 7m short of the top of the crag. Don't be tempted by the open book to your right as there are things in there best left alone!
FA: W Gans, October 2016
Richard flips the Bird
Start on a right facing open book maybe 3m left of Bird. Climb through a steep and power hungry start to an open book capped by a blank roof. Squeeze some gear in before stepping left around the roof, only to be confronted by a smaller and much more friendly roof above. step thru this and wonder up the face above to a patch of grass, behind which is tat. You can continue to the top, however the climbing is not nearly as pleasant.
FA: R Halsey 2016
Richards plumb line
towards the left end of the sector is a few large blocks that have detached themselves from the wall. Be greateful of this, and att the left end of them is an aparent open book capped with a roof maybe 3m above. Traverse left under the roof to a series of rails on steep ground. Maintain your commitment to the lip, before heading right on the headwall to share tat at the grassy ledge towards the top of the crag.
FA: R. Halsey 2016
This slab looking wall lies between an arete to its right and a prominent open book to the left and offers some fun easier routes.
Between the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea 16 **
The open book on the left of the wall. Cross to the left side of the open book and top out at the top of the crag. FA: W. Gans and Y. Cloete Oct 2016
Tigris (21) and Euphrates (19)***
Take the crack thru the stripes! Starts about 3m left of the right end of the crag. Like the real thing Euphrates and Tigris share a few moves at the bottom, however unlike those Mesopotamian rivers the Tigris takes the left line (those stripes needed to be stroked), while the Euphrates dances up the Arette before merging again with the Tigris to wonder right, past a tree (a shame its not a Date palm really) to a prominent ledge.
FA: W.Gans ( Tigris) and L. Eberhard (Euphrates) winter 2016.