Difference between revisions of "Silvermine Crags"

From South Africa Rock Climbing Routes Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
 
(One intermediate revision by one other user not shown)
Line 10: Line 10:
 
}}
 
}}
  
 +
 +
Silvermine is probably the most popular climbing area on the Cape Peninsula with short walk-ins, good rock quality and many excellent routes.  Silvermine has five different crags and over 80 routes with grades ranging from 13 to 28.  The crags go into the shade in the early afternoon.  The Lower Silvermine Crag has easy routes and is perfect for beginners, Blaze of Glory is a little harder, Silvermine Main Crag is a good all round crag and Fawlty Towers for some harder stuff.  The most recent addition is Silverminor Crag.
 +
 +
=Silvermine Climbing History=
 +
 +
The Silvermine Crags have been climbed since the 60′s, but the crags first became popular when they were bolted in the 90′s.  In 2008, many of classic routes have been re-bolted.
  
  
Line 17: Line 23:
 
*10 to 25 minute walk-in
 
*10 to 25 minute walk-in
  
These are some of the most popular crags in South Africa with short walk-ins, good rock quality and many excellent routes.
 
  
 
= Season =
 
= Season =
Line 33: Line 38:
 
Website: [http://www.tmnp.co.za tmnp.co.za]
 
Website: [http://www.tmnp.co.za tmnp.co.za]
  
= Rock =
 
Sandstone
 
  
 
= Gear =
 
= Gear =
Line 124: Line 127:
 
| ||Vlad the Impaler|| 6a/19||||||||
 
| ||Vlad the Impaler|| 6a/19||||||||
 
|-
 
|-
| P|| Wings of Desire/ (Malcolm's Route in Book)||||(3B+C)||||||
+
| P|| Wings of Desire/ (Malcolm's Route in Book)||||(3B+C)||||(2009)||
 
|-
 
|-
 
| Q|| Wet Dreams|| 6a/19 ||||||||
 
| Q|| Wet Dreams|| 6a/19 ||||||||
Line 177: Line 180:
 
| 7||Snitch|| 18 ||||||||
 
| 7||Snitch|| 18 ||||||||
 
|}
 
|}
 
  
 
== Blaze of Glory ==
 
== Blaze of Glory ==
Line 310: Line 312:
  
 
== Fawlty Towers ==
 
== Fawlty Towers ==
 +
Fawlty Towers crag at Silvermine has 22 routes with grades ranging from 16 to 27.  The crag was originally developed in 1997 by Guy Hollwill and Robyn Hollwill.  When Robyn opened Lord Melbury 25,  it was one of the harder routes opened by a woman in SA.
 +
 
To get to Fawlty Towers, walk along the dirt road to the far side of the ridge. Once on the ridge, head back (that is, walk in the direction of Muizenberg). Look for a rock cairn indicating the path to walk down to the crag. You will arrive at the right hand side of the crag.
 
To get to Fawlty Towers, walk along the dirt road to the far side of the ridge. Once on the ridge, head back (that is, walk in the direction of Muizenberg). Look for a rock cairn indicating the path to walk down to the crag. You will arrive at the right hand side of the crag.
 +
From left to right:
  
  

Latest revision as of 11:16, 31 July 2014

{{{Picture}}}
Silvermine Crags
Loading map...
Latitude-34.075626
Longitude18.407666
Climbing TypeSport
Rock TypeSandstone
SeasonAll year round
ProvinceWestern Cape
AreaCape Town





Silvermine is probably the most popular climbing area on the Cape Peninsula with short walk-ins, good rock quality and many excellent routes. Silvermine has five different crags and over 80 routes with grades ranging from 13 to 28. The crags go into the shade in the early afternoon. The Lower Silvermine Crag has easy routes and is perfect for beginners, Blaze of Glory is a little harder, Silvermine Main Crag is a good all round crag and Fawlty Towers for some harder stuff. The most recent addition is Silverminor Crag.

Silvermine Climbing History

The Silvermine Crags have been climbed since the 60′s, but the crags first became popular when they were bolted in the 90′s. In 2008, many of classic routes have been re-bolted.


Behind the ridge are four different crags: the Lower Silvermine Crag has easy routes and is perfect for beginners, Blaze of Glory is a little harder, Silvermine Main Crag is a good all round crag and Fawlty Towers for some harder stuff.

  • ±80 single pitch sport routes
  • Grades 4 to 7b+
  • 10 to 25 minute walk-in


Season

All year round. Sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon, resulting in crag congestion at the most popular crags, like Lower Silvermine Main

Entry Times

07:00 - 18:00 Summer (October - March) Exit at 19:00
08:00 - 17:00 Winter (April - September) Exit at 18:00
Activities after hours / Late exit: R500 fine

Contact

Tel +27 21 701 8692
Emergency Tel: +27 86 110 6417
Email: tablemountain@sanparks.org
Website: tmnp.co.za


Gear

Sport rack, 50m or 60m rope. Be sure to tie a knot in the end of your rope as some of the routes are higher than 25m.

Sivermine Crags Map

Map ct silver.gif

The climbing

Mostly vertical to slightly overhanging with a good 'get your leg up overhang' on a couple of the routes at Silvermine Main Crag and Blaze of Glory. There are many less overhanging/easier climbs at the two Lower Crags.

Getting There

From Cape Town, take Ou Kaapse Weg towards Noordhoek. Once on top of the mountain turn right into the Silvermine Reserve. There is an entrance fee of R30.00 to get into the reserve (February 2012). A Wild card also gets you in. Visitors to South Africa can also take advantage of the Wild cards.Wildcard

Areas

Lower Silvermine Crag

Silverminelower.gif

Routes from L to R Park at the first parking lot. Walk straight up the hill to the ridge and then take a path to the left and follow the cairns to the path down and abseil point. The path down to the crag goes on the right (when the crag below you). You can also abseil into this crag, The abseil anchors are safely set back about from the edge (a doubled rope will get you to the bottom)


Cloud Nine Wall:

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
A Bedazzled 6b/21 (5B+C) M Gowans
B Vortex 6a+/20 (7B+C) T Lourens
C Cosmik Debris 6b/21 (6B+C)
D Nimbus 6a/19 (6B+C)
D.25 Lord of The Ring 16 (10B+C) Brad Davies. Closely bolted. A fantastic introductory route
D.50 My Precious 6a+/20 M Gowans Pumpy and sustained in the lower half! Some of the rock at the start is a bit suspect so handle with care.
D.75 Ring Sting 6b/21 S Maasch


Main/ Original Sector:

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
E Blockhead 6a+/20 (6B+C)
E.50 Skywalker 23 BB G Hart/FA J Temple-Forbes Features many loose blocks reinforced with glue.
E.75 Mantra 13/14 [11B; C] Gavin Peckham and Brian Lambourne (30/03/08)
F Chicks Dig it Lank 13 (6B+C)
G Serendipity 14 (6B+C)
H Rough Rider 15 (6B+C)
I Flakes 15 (6B+C)
J Alpha & Omega 6b+/22 (6B+C)
K Fool's Garden 6a+/19 (6B+C)
L Obideah 6a/18 (8B+C)
Between the Lines 6a+/20
M Jedeiah 6a/18 (6B+C)
N The Gift /16 (7B+C)
O Hard as it Gets 17 (7B+C)
Vlad the Impaler 6a/19
P Wings of Desire/ (Malcolm's Route in Book) (3B+C) (2009)
Q Wet Dreams 6a/19



8 Mile Ledge: (Half way up Wet Dreams, traverse to the ledge on left)

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 Chris Kirkpatrick 6b/21 (6B+C)
2 Two Trailer Park Girls 6b+/22 (5B+C)
3 Oh, There Goes Gravity 6c/23 (7B+C)
4 Oh, There Goes Gravity-direct 25 (7B+C)


The Pumphouse:

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 Rest the Brakes 18
2 Spitfire 23
3 In Your Face 21
4 London Burning 7a (grade consensus needed) J. Samson pre July 2010
5 Cursed 19
6 Piglet Garden 17
7 Snitch 18

Blaze of Glory

Routes from L to R

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 Promise of Light 6b+/22 15m 15m
2 Terminal Velocity 6b+/22 15m 15m
3 Drop Zone 6a/19 15m 15m
4 Wake-Up Call 6b/21 16m 16m
5 Bad Medicine 6b/21 16m 16m
6 Blaze of Glory 6b+/22 15m 15m
7 Dead Wing Starling 4+/15 14m 14m
8 Hairless Mexican 4+/15 14m 14m


Silvermine Main Crag

Routes From left to right:

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 Mind the Gap 21 12 bolts Scott Miller, March 2005 to the left of Argent
2 Argent 16 Richard Behne
3 Argentum 19 Richard Behne
4 Jono Gordon's Route 22 Jono Gordon This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
5 Mercury 26 Richard Behne This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
6 Pistolero 20 Patrick McCann
7 Josie Get Your Gun 21 Patrick McCann Hard if you're short
8 Cool Hand Luke 18 Patrick McCann
9 Male Country 24 Jayson Orton
10 No Man's Land 24 John Alexander
11 Sterling Silver 21 John Alexander A classic! This route has been rebolted with chemical anchors by the Anchor Replacement Fund
12 Revealyomango 20 Tony Lourens
13 Train Spotting 28 Guy Holwill
14 Silver Streak 26 Paul Schlodfeldt
15 Dragonfly 26 Mike Roberts
16 Trance Dance 23 Malcolm Gowans
17 Kirika 23 Greg Hart 2006 The grey streaks

Photos



Silverminor Crag

Access to Silverminor is from the Main Crag:

  • From the open terrace between 'Cool Hand Luke' and 'No Man's Land', step down and follow the vague path down and left along a ledge, to access the routes.


Routes From left to right:

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 Trite quicky 19 Malcolm Gowans March 2012.
2 Souldery bart 18 Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
3 Tad ho 23 Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012
4 Mong love 17 Malcolm Gowans March 2012
5 Gunnet 23 Malcolm Gowans August 2013
6 Giden hem 23 Jason Temple-Forbes March 2012

Silverminor topo. By Malcolm Gowans


Photos

Fawlty Towers

Fawlty Towers crag at Silvermine has 22 routes with grades ranging from 16 to 27. The crag was originally developed in 1997 by Guy Hollwill and Robyn Hollwill. When Robyn opened Lord Melbury 25, it was one of the harder routes opened by a woman in SA.

To get to Fawlty Towers, walk along the dirt road to the far side of the ridge. Once on the ridge, head back (that is, walk in the direction of Muizenberg). Look for a rock cairn indicating the path to walk down to the crag. You will arrive at the right hand side of the crag. From left to right:


From left to right:

# ROUTE NAME / AREA GRADE # BOLTS RATING BOLTING/OPENED INFO DESCRIPTION
1 Moose's Head 23 Guy Holwill
2 The Psychiatrist 22 Jason Temple-Forbes
3 Corked 19 Jayson Orton
4 Duck Surprise 20 Tony Lourens
5 Communication Breakdown 23 Jayson Orton
6 Lemonade 16 (9 bolts) Tyrone Chan, March 2005
7 Playin' Hookie 16 (9 bolts) Scott Miller, March 2005
8 Sthpoonz 20 Jayson Orton
9 Waldorf Salad 18 Robyn Holwill (harder start a metre or so to the right is graded 22)
10 Brahm's Third Racket 26 Guy Holwill
11 Basil the Rat 23 Jayson Orton
12 Toreador of Torquay 21 Patrick McCann
13 name? 21/22 It starts off with a couple of metres of face climbing, then moves up and right to a roof with some nice jugs, which moves over the roof to a left handed pinch, finally finishing at the chains under the ceiling.
14 False Alarm 26 Jayson Orton
15 Don't Mention the War 26 Guy Holwill
16 Fire Alarm 23 (7 bolts) Scott Miller February 2005
17 The Germans 27 Guy Holwill
18 Bravest Orangutan in Britain 22 Gordon Forbes
19 Not Yet Major 25 Guy Holwill
20 Lord Melbury 25 Robyn Holwill
21 Boff 23 Jason Temple-Forbes
22 Poff 21 Jayson Orton (this is the first route you will see when you arrive at the crag)