Slangoelie Buttress

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Slangoelie

Slangoelie actually offers the easiest access climbing of all the Apostles, as most routes start very near the Pipe Track. Whats more there is a permanent water source on the path! This, coupled with some fantastic routes make it one of the best single pitch trad crags on the Apostles

 Snake-oil Battlegrounds

The crag has 4 walls with routes on them, with most of the development on the first one: Western Front. We took a World War One theme to it, but knowing where are more lines there waiting attention we hope that people continue the theme. All routes are listed from left to right unless otherwise stated

 The Western Front

The crag has a 5m base with a large, comfortable and shaded ledge above. Most of the routes start on this ledge, and we recommend basing your day from here.


1. First Casualty (17) ***

FA: S. Cunnane & W. Gans, summer 2013/14

Start on the path at the left end of the crag up a clean slabby face beneath a step over roof. Step left at the roof for a small prow, then follow the main crack above to a vague rail about 2m below the next overlap. Traverse 3-4m right to a break in the overlap and take good holds to the top.

These routes start from the ledge

2. All Quiet (17) ***

FA: R. Halsey & W. Gans late 2014 Take the big open book on the left end of the ledge (the one facing the ocean, not the one facing the ledge). Exit left the open book at the overhang, then finish as for First Casualty above.

3. (23)

FA: R Halsey Start from the ledge, left and behind the bushes on the left side of the crag, and the line heads diagonally right until the head wall, where it goes straight up to the tree.

4. An Uncertain Piece (24) ****

FA: W. Gans 20 June 2015 Best Line at the crag: interesting moves with a pumpy disposition. Start in the north-facing, undercut open book on the left side of the wall, and basically follows this line to the top. Head up and right to an undercut nose, then up the vague open book and through easier ground to a rest below a clean face broken by a single, vertical crack. Negotiate this and gun for the tree overhanging the top. Post send rotisserie chicken completes the route.

5. Spring Offensive (21) ***

FA: W. Gans Summer 2013/14 Just right of a hanging blunt nose is a rounded sheet on the wall- great chicken eating spot. Convince your feet up, then take the fault to the top of the crag. Great Pro.

6. Rolling Barrage (22) **** FA: S. Cunnane 20 June 2015 Excellent line that gets progressively more challenging. Start off a Ladies Tee towards the right corner of the crag: beneath an undercling at the bottom of a small left facing corner. Basically the line takes the big open book all the way to the top, however we strongly recommend stepping left about 5m up over the undercut to take the face above. Then reunite with the open book to the top. The line at the top avoids the feature taken by Cavalry Charge.

These two lines start in the "Cave" section of the crag on the right, and start on a sandy open book. the main feature of this area is an obvious line through a series of open books which is Pith Of Despair.

7. The Long March (23) FA: R Halsey Jan 2015 This is the longest line at the crag: an enormous left diagonal line sharing the same start as POD and exiting at the tree above An Uncertain Piece. It was opened ground up on-sight.

8. Pith of Despair *** (22 supposedly)

FA: S. Cunnane Nov 2014 Take the series of overlapping open books as it tackles the steep wall. At the top the route traverses right to take a prow through to an easy head wall then the top.


 Central Powers

This beautiful wall has been partially cleaned, has a lower off tat but only two lines up it so far. Dr Cunnane and Mr Gans then got distracted...

Left end of the wall has a vague arete with a rectangle face at its base. Across the crag at about 3-4m off the ground is a protruding, jagged ledge with a couple turrets of rock connecting it to terra firma.

1. The Fokker Scourge (16)** FA: W. Gans, R. Halsey 2014 Take the arete on the left end of the wall to a right tending crack to the top. last few meters need a clean, sorry. Start up the Rectangular face to the ledge, then step over to the arete.

2. The Red Baron (20/21) ***** FA: S. Cunnane. 5 July 2015

An improbable looking line for the grade. The route takes a steep launch off the ground to the ledge, then a line series of thin moves to the top, punctuated by a large "Thank God" rest on top of a big flake. Doesn't take gear larger than BD#0.75. Strong contender for the best line on the buttress so far.

"""3.?? (21) ****""" FA: S. Cunnane. 4 July 2015

Same start as route above, only taking the right fork. It shares a rest at the top of the flake. Exciting finish.


4.?? (20) *** FA: S. Cunnane & W. Gans 2014 On the right end of the orange wall is a turret, take this to the ledge, step 2-3m right to climb the face just left of the open book crack. Follow the cracks to a horizontal break that bends up to a vertical crack just left of the route. From the next rail blast through to the top.


 Eastern Front

These two lonely routes are quite close to the Frontal Route

1. ??? (19) ** FA: C. Burden & W. Gans Summer 2013/14 The two pitches probably could be linked to one pitch. P1. 10m 19)The route take a a line beneath a huge hanging face with a spectacular hanging arete. Scramble up and start in a left arching crack directly beneath the hanging wall. At the base of the wall/roof step left to a ledge at the base of an open book. P2. 18m (17). Take the open book before traversing across the face using a good rail- to the arete, which is taken to the top.

2. A Death in Sarajevo (18) ** FA: S. Cunnane & W. Gans, late 2013 One of the few routes to face south, this line is at the very right end of the crag and starts in a open book/crack before stepping onto the left face, past a small protrusion to a rail, then onto the top. Best of luck coming down as the opening party got lost trying to walk off.