Difference between revisions of "Spout"
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=== West Face ===
=== West Face ===
[[File:Tafelberg Spout West Face small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Spout, West face.|Tafelberg, Spout, West Face. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). <br>
[[File:Tafelberg Spout West Face small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Spout, West face.|Tafelberg, Spout, West Face. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). <br>= Candle Man<br>Blue = Vital Statistix <br>Red = Bazooka Rodeo]]
Revision as of 12:32, 25 February 2014
- 1 West Face
- 2 Near the Cave
- 3 Ecstasy Wall
- 4 Solitaire
Tafelberg, Spout, West Face: 1. Vital Statistix 2. Bazooka Rodeo
Vital Statistix (22) ****
Spout West Face
Features a strenuous start followed by a good mix of climbing styles. Start in the same place as Dogmatix.
- Pitch 1. 20 m (22) Start up Dogmatix for ~3m. At the rail below the roof traverse ~3m right until able to pull strenuously up into a corner. Follow the corner for several meters and then step left and up to a stance on a ledge.
- Pitch 2. 20 m (20) Head straight up and then slightly right to pull through the thin roof at its narrowest point. Continue up slabs and a tiny corner (micro cams useful) to a gargantuan ledge.
- Pitch 3. 40 m (18) Start 7m right of Dogmatix at a monster pocket containing a small cairn. Climb up to a break, then up on orange flakes to the right of a projecting block. Continue up a short corner to a ledge, then another 5m to the next large ledge.
- Pitch 4. 15 m (16) Use a massive layback flake to gain a ledge, then move left to a prominent corner. Climb the recess to the roof, step left, and up to a rail. Pull right and over the roof and then easily up to a ledge.
Descent: The descent scramble / abseil is about 30m in front of you when you top out.
FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (March 2013)
Bazooka Rodeo (25) ****
Spout, West Face
A varied route with an improbable start, and then consistently good climbing. Start about 15m right of Dogmatix, below a pocketed roof.
- Pitch 1. 25 m (25) Up a short easy wall, and a left leaning break to a wide rail (#3 and #4 Camalot) below the pocketed roof. Use a deep C-shaped pocket to launch to the lip, and do some circus moves to establish on the face above. Climb up and slightly right for about 7m to a semi-hanging stance.
- Pitch 2. 10m (18) Straight up steep face to the ledge, again #3 and #4 Camalot useful.
- Pitch 3. 15m (19) Traverse left along narrow ledge for a few meters, then pull up to some underclings above the slab. Continue traversing left until able to easily pull up to large ledge.
- Pitch 4. 40m (20) Start directly under a narrow roof, at about 10m height, that has two small left pointing flakes. Up to the first break, then to the narrow roof and use the flakes to gain the face above. Tend diagonally right across the face to pass the next larger roof on the right side. Continue tending slightly right and up, just left of the wide arete. Stance in a small right facing corner on the ledge.
- Pitch 5. 30m (19) Climb the corner for about 2m then traverse right and up on rails. On the right edge of the long roof is a thin, left tending finger crack. Pull up into this, and then again tend right across the face to the next ledge. A short wide crack on the right then leads to a blocky ledge. Stance in a right facing corner under a bottomless chimney about 10m up.
- Pitch 6. 15m (20) Climb the short steep cracks to a rectangular roof. Pass this on the right side and then step left into the chimney that leads to the top.
FA: Joe Möhle and Richard Halsey (Nov 2011).
Aqua Spring (22) ***
Start on a large block right behind the water point. Jump for a good rail and then follow the crack system up and through two recesses on the left. At the good rail where the rock above deteriorates in quality, rap from a nut/chock anchor (<30m).
FA: R. Halsey 31/12/11
Near the Cave
Candle Man (23) ***
A short, fun route right near the cave. Good sunset jaunt. Head down to the Honeymoon Suite cave and traverse right past the start of Danger Mouse. At the far end of the ledge an obvious, big layback crack starts about 5m up.
- Pitch 1. 30 m (19) Climb through the steep start directly below the layback crack and then all the way up the crack to a ledge.
Walk a few metres right then scramble up and right and behind some boulders to an undercut corner capped by a roof with a hand crack on the right. This is the same level as the Sundowner Platform above Spout Cave.
- Pitch 2. 15 m (23) Starting on the left, pull up to a rail and make some bouldery moves to gain the corner. Head up to the roof, rail right and use the roof crack to gain an easy ramp above. Stance at a nice platform.
- Pitch 3. 10m (15) Head up just left of a vague arete, and then easily to stance at some large blocks. After belaying, walk ~10m toward the Pillar Box, over some blocks, to the base of vertical crack.
- Pitch 4. 10m (22) Climb the crack to a ledge, then tackle a short but steep wall with a vertical finger crack crossed by a horizontal hand crack.
Descent: Tops out right at a tat abseil point. One rap gets you all the way down. Alternatively scramble off left onto the standard descent route.
FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2013)
Pocket Aces (21) ****
A steep and pumpy route on great holds. From the Cave, walk toward the Solitare wall, and you will find the route on your right after ~200m, just left of Tinkerbell. Scramble up a knobbly groove to the base.
Starting just left of a hollow, use a break to gain a rail ~3m up. Pull through a narrow roof to the steep face above with pockets. Straight up to the roof, then follow the right tending crack out of the roof to a narrow ledge at the top.
Descent: walk left to join the standard Spout descent route.
FA: Richard Halsey and Joe Möhle(Dec 2012)
A short, clean, and deceptively steep wall just to the right of the route Thumbelina. It is easily visible up on your right as you walk from Spout cave toward the water point. Approach by scrambling up The Central Route.
Flaming Woozel (24/25) ****
Start off a large, flat boulder more-or-less in the centre of the wall and climb up easily to a break. Follow a slight right leaning groove to a finger rail (small cams). Traverse 1m right and use two short slanted rails and the golf ball to reach the next good rail. Traverse about 2m left until able to pull up to another good rail, and the ledge above. Move slightly right to a darker brown, steep prow and climb the left side till the top.
Consensus grading required, probably harder if you are short.
FA: R. Halsey 12/11/2011
Fritzie le Bigorneau (24)
Ecstasy Wall, Spout North Face
A single pitch up the middle of the Ecstasy Wall. Get to the wall by scrambling up The Central Route.
- Pitch 1. 12 m (24) Start on R of red rock at cairn. Climb to rail, rail left 2 meters and move awkwardly up corner to exit L on ledge below roof. Rail L and up for 1m, to gain horizontal flake. Traverse R to apex of flake and crank hard up face to pockets. continue up R to arete and top.
FA: Mark Seuring (April 2013)
Road To Nowhere (22) ***
Ecstasy Wall, Spout North Face
A single pitch straight up the right hand end of the Ecstasy Wall (the small, steep amphitheatre on the upper left of the Spout's North Face). Get to the wall by scrambling up The Central Route. Start off a boulder below a small corner and arete at a cairn.
- Pitch 1. 12 m (22) Head straight up to the top with a couple of hard moves between rails until the angle eases off.
Descent: Walk off right to the standard descent route or find an abseil point.
FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2014)
Solitaire wall - Left Side. 1. The Inventor, 2. The Cynic, 3. Go Go Gadget
The left side of the Solitaire wall is easy accessed by the path leading to the water spot. Good warm up area in cold weather.
The Inventor (21) ***
Start up a featured face (just right of the path leading to the water spot) up to the steep orange rock. Pull through some rails and then easily up to a featured layback. At the small ledge, move about 1.5m left and up to a rail. Use good holds on the face to reach the next ledge and follow the short left facing corner to the top.
FA: R. Halsey 6/11/11
The Cynic (18) ***(*)
Climb easily up to the layback from the right. At the ledge traverse left to the blunt arete and climb this to the top.
FA: J. Möhle 6/11/11
Flying High (24) ****
Start just left of Go Go Gadget and climb straight up to the first ledge. Reach up to a hand rail, then straight up via gymnastic moves to and from the huge horizontal pocket (in the grey rock with an orange stripe coming down from its centre). Easily to top. Great climbing, pity about the ledge. Consensus grading needed.
FA: R. Halsey & U. Pitsch 12/02/2012
Go Go Gadget (23) ****
What a little gem! Pull onto the orange face from the boulder and tend slightly right up the steep wall to the narrow overhang. Pull directly through and up a series of flakes to a hand rail to the left of a small roof. Crank onto, and across the roof on good holds in the grey rock, and then tend slightly left to a small ledge. Straight to top.
FA: R. Halsey 7/11/11
Any Takers? (16) ***
This is an obvious line that has probably been climbed before but not recorded. It has good, easy climbing and is recorded for completion.
Scramble up a large boulder about 5m left of Pinstripe Sweet. Step onto the face and follow the wide crack, layback and flake to the top.
U. Pitsch & R. Halsey 12/02/2012
Pinstripe Sweet (23) ***
Start about 2m left of Solitare. Climb a blunt arete to a ledge. Follow the thin black water streak with some committing moves above the ledge. About half way up the streak you need to make a move left and up for 1m to a thin crack on a flake, before moving right again. At the next ledge move slightly right to a vague corner and then easily to the top.
FA: R. Halsey & U. Pitsch 29/01/2012
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