Difference between revisions of "Tafelberg Main Wall"

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[[File:Tafelberg Main Wall Maidens Sector small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Maiden's Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Maiden's Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). <br>Blue = Amarula <br>Green = Cape Velvet <br>Orange = Make Tea Not War <br>Yellow = Iron Maiden <br>Magenta = Danger Shrew <br>Red = Dithering Heights]]
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== Rooibosch Sector ==
  
[[File:Tafelberg Main Wall Frontal Sector small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Frontal Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Frontal Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). <br>Magenta = Danger Shrew <br>Red = Dithering Heights <br>Blue = The Swan <br>Green = Stargate <br>Yellow = Crouching Tiger Hidden Giraffe <br>Dark Green = The Occidental Express <br>Purple = Iridium Flash<br>Orange = The Jedi Fish<br>Cyan = Vuvuzela]]
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[[File:Tafelberg Main Wall Rooibosch Sector small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Rooibosch Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Rooibosch Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). <br>A = My-T-Chai <br>B = Jasmin And Mr T <br>C = Serpentine]]
  
[[File:Tafelberg_Main_Wall_Right_Sector2.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Right Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Right Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). <br>Cyan = Vuvuzela<br>Blue = Freedom Feather<br>Yellow = Boombox<br>Red = Whistling Woozle<br>Orange = Fallen Iris]]
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=== My-T-Chai (24) ***** ===
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Rooibosch Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
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The (very) direct version of ''Rooibosch''. Named after a brand of Rooibos Chai tea.
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*'''1. 55 m (24)''' Start up ''Rooibosch''. At the small roof above where ''Rooibosch'' heads left, pull through into the thin crack. Continue straight up through the next crack and ever upwards to a neat belay ledge.
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*'''2. 20 m (18)''' Climb the thin recess just left of a blunt, gearless prow.
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'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Feb 2015)
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=== Jasmin And Mr T (21) **** ===
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Rooibosch Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
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On the right of the ''Rooibosch'' wall is a huge roof at about 1/3 height. The route skirts this roof on the left then heads straight up and through another roof at about 2/3 height.
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*'''1. 20 m (20)''' About 30m right of the tunnel scramble gulley is a short, slightly left facing, orange wall with three vertical cracks. Climb these cracks to the huge ledge below the massive roof (the same ledge from which ''Rooibosch'' starts).
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*'''2. 50 m (18)''' Start about 3m left of the big crack where ''Tea Bag'' starts. Climb a thin crack in a short, orange face to a small roof. Pull through and move up until you can rail right past a chockstone in the big crack at foot level and around the corner. Pull up and continue up until you can rail right again across the face to a prominent notch on the skyline. Head up and left towards a layback corner and up to a large ledge.
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*'''3. 25 m (21)''' Above the ledge is a roof with a rail that heads out and right and into a shallow, rightward tending recess capped by a small roof. Follow the rail and pull up into the recess. Follow it to pass the roof on the right and continue up some cracks to the top.
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'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2015)
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=== Serpentine (25) **** ===
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Rooibosch Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
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On the right of the ''Rooibosch'' wall is a huge roof at about 1/3 height. The route climbs up to the middle of this roof then rails out spectacularly rightwards to pass it before continuing via another roof higher up to the top.
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*'''1. 25 m (15)''' About 50m right of the tunnel scramble gulley is a slightly overhanging, orange recess directly below a prominent, leftward protruding prow on the massive roof above. Climb this recess to the huge ledge (the same ledge from which ''Rooibosch'' starts).
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*'''2. 30 m (25)''' Move across the ledge to the base of the wall directly below the middle of the huge roof. Climb the crack leading up to the notch in the first level of roof. Pull through the notch to reach the big rail under the main roof. Rail right until able to pull onto the face above using great pockets and a good crack. Move up to the next rail then head left until able to pull up to a small ledge. Make a semi-hanging stance using small cams. A superb and wild pitch.<br />Gear: A #4 and a #3 Camalot and long slings are useful for the rail and some small cams for the stance.
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*'''3. 30 m (17)''' Climb straight up to a big ledge. Continue up to the next big ledge.
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*'''4. 25 m (14)''' Move up ~6m on the right of the big roof to the second roof. Rail left until the roof ends. Stand up above the roof, move left, and up to the top.
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'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2015)
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== Maiden's Sector ==
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[[File:Tafelberg Main Wall Maidens Sector small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Maiden's Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Maiden's Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). <br>A = Amarula <br>B = Cape Velvet <br>C = The Thin Blue Lime <br>D = Warlock <br>E = Make Tea Not War <br>F = The Ringmaster <br>G = The Coy Comet <br>H = Sly And Slinky <br>I = The Steel Fox <br>J = Iron Maiden <br>K = Danger Shrew <br>L = Odyssey <br>M = Dithering Heights]]
  
 
=== Amarula (23) **** ===
 
=== Amarula (23) **** ===
Line 25: Line 63:
  
 
*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (22)''' Start 5m right of ''Amarula'' on top of some blocks. Up easily to a large rail below a roof. Move left and pull through the roof onto a small platform. Head straight up the smooth recess to a good ledge.
 
*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (22)''' Start 5m right of ''Amarula'' on top of some blocks. Up easily to a large rail below a roof. Move left and pull through the roof onto a small platform. Head straight up the smooth recess to a good ledge.
 
 
*'''Pitch 2. 20 m (25)''' Head up and left to a wide rail below an overhanging nose. On the left of the nose there is a narrow crack (tiny cam required). Pull up into the higher vertical crack and crank to a horizontal rail. Step right around the nose and up a short layback to a thin rail. Step back left across the nose and then up a series of laybacks to a fantastic stance above the prow.<br />Gear: Very small cam (eg. C3 000) to protect the first move onto the nose.
 
*'''Pitch 2. 20 m (25)''' Head up and left to a wide rail below an overhanging nose. On the left of the nose there is a narrow crack (tiny cam required). Pull up into the higher vertical crack and crank to a horizontal rail. Step right around the nose and up a short layback to a thin rail. Step back left across the nose and then up a series of laybacks to a fantastic stance above the prow.<br />Gear: Very small cam (eg. C3 000) to protect the first move onto the nose.
 
 
*'''Pitch 3. 45 m (21)''' Climb up and right into a bottomless chimney. Continue up and step right onto a large split block. Tackle the steep jam crack (with an offwidth to the right). Move right around the corner onto a ledge and straight up to the huge ledge.
 
*'''Pitch 3. 45 m (21)''' Climb up and right into a bottomless chimney. Continue up and step right onto a large split block. Tackle the steep jam crack (with an offwidth to the right). Move right around the corner onto a ledge and straight up to the huge ledge.
 
 
*'''Pitch 4. 20 m (16)''' Step off a wobbly block and climb a golden, polished arete (just right of a gulley) and then easy slabs to the top. This is probably shared with ''Ice Tea''.
 
*'''Pitch 4. 20 m (16)''' Step off a wobbly block and climb a golden, polished arete (just right of a gulley) and then easy slabs to the top. This is probably shared with ''Ice Tea''.
  
 
'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (March 2013)
 
'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (March 2013)
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=== The Thin Blue Lime (19) *** ===
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Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
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Consistent moderate climbing around ''Lemon''.
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*'''1. 20 m (19)''' Start as for ''Mothers''. Climb diagonally up the right hand face to the roof. Pull through at a crack about 1m left of the end of the roof. Traverse 4m left on the platform to stance below a blunt arete.
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*'''2. 45 m (18)''' Head up and left to the centre of the brown face. Head up and aim for the bottomless, left facing, V-shaped groove. Squeeze up this (the ''Lemon Squeeze'') and step left onto the face as soon as possible. Climb up, though a small roof, and follow good holds to a small ledge.
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*'''3. 30 m (18)''' Head up a few meters to below a large, left facing prow. Climb up the short face right of this to a series of vertical cracks. Straight to top.
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'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Feb 2015)
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=== Warlock (26) **** ===
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Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
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A steep, demanding route crossing ''Mothers''. The top pitch offers superb climbing in a wild position.
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*'''1. 40 m (18)''' Start 5m left of ''Cosy Corner''. Climb up to a large post box slot a few meters up. Move slightly up and right to another large horizontal slot. From here move diagonally up and left to a ledge below a brown face. Head straight up this face to a ledge.
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*'''2. 30 m (25)''' Climb the bulging face to a ledge below and right of a big roof. Step left and make some hard moves to gain the rail under the roof. Traverse left until able to pull past the left side of the roof. Head straight up following large layback features to a wide ledge.
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*'''3. 25 m (26)''' Start up a break about 5m left of a large left tending layback crack system. Climb straight up the break to the roof. Rail about 2m right until able to make some strenuous pulls though the roof (about 1m left of the narrowest point) into the corner above. Move up and right to below the final roof. Pull up and left using layback holds to establish on the face above. Continue straight up to the top.
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'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2015)
  
 
=== Make Tea Not War (20) *** ===
 
=== Make Tea Not War (20) *** ===
Line 42: Line 101:
 
*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (17)''' Start 1m left of Cosy Corner and head straight up and past a vertical crack in the steep section about 20m up. Tend slightly left, passing one ledge, to a stance on the second ledge in a wide corner.
 
*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (17)''' Start 1m left of Cosy Corner and head straight up and past a vertical crack in the steep section about 20m up. Tend slightly left, passing one ledge, to a stance on the second ledge in a wide corner.
 
*'''Pitch 2. 45 m (20)''' Climb the largest layback crack in the wide corner to some large horizontal breaks, Move slightly right and up to below a steep crack and pocketed face on good quality brown rock. Pull through the bulge and straight up the face for about 15m to a rail below a slight overhang. Swing round 2m to the right and then straight up featured groove/face to a flat platform just below the large rocky ledge. Belay here, and then scramble up right to below the right hand wall of the huge corner.   
 
*'''Pitch 2. 45 m (20)''' Climb the largest layback crack in the wide corner to some large horizontal breaks, Move slightly right and up to below a steep crack and pocketed face on good quality brown rock. Pull through the bulge and straight up the face for about 15m to a rail below a slight overhang. Swing round 2m to the right and then straight up featured groove/face to a flat platform just below the large rocky ledge. Belay here, and then scramble up right to below the right hand wall of the huge corner.   
 
 
*'''Pitch 3. 15 m (17)''' The Power Hog pitch. Start up a vague layback and make a rising traverse across the compact white face (with wide vertical cracks) and under a projecting nose to a neat stance capped by a small roof on the left.
 
*'''Pitch 3. 15 m (17)''' The Power Hog pitch. Start up a vague layback and make a rising traverse across the compact white face (with wide vertical cracks) and under a projecting nose to a neat stance capped by a small roof on the left.
 
*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (18)''' Pass the right side of the small roof, and up a few meters to a finger rail, below a very narrow overhang. Traverse left about 2m and then straight up to the top.
 
*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (18)''' Pass the right side of the small roof, and up a few meters to a finger rail, below a very narrow overhang. Traverse left about 2m and then straight up to the top.
Line 48: Line 106:
 
'''FA''': Richard Halsey, Anthony Hall and Jonathan Hajos (April 2011)
 
'''FA''': Richard Halsey, Anthony Hall and Jonathan Hajos (April 2011)
  
=== Iron Maiden (23) ***** ===
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=== The Ringmaster (23) **** ===
  
 
Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
 
Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
  
Straight, sustained rock and roll. Start by using the first pitch of Maidens Prayer to access a ledge. Where the ledge terminates on the right is a grey, knobbly feature which is directly below an arete 15m up.
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Pitch 2 offers a wild, pumpy, and exposed roof, while pitch 3 has excellent climbing on some vertical cracks.
  
*'''Pitch 1. 30 m (23)''' Climb the knobbly feature, then straight up an orange face and through a bulge to a hand crack 1m left of the arete. Continue up the crack, move right across the arete, and follow a short recess to a spacious platform above the arete.  
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*'''1. 45 m (19)''' Start 3m right of ''Cosy Corner Direct'' below a large layback crack. Climb the layback, then step left to a short brown arete above the ''Cosy Corner Direct'' crack. Climb this, then easy rock to a dark brown face. Climb either crack in the centre of the face and stance at a blocky corner below the large roof system above and left.
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*'''2. 45 m (23)''' Move diagonally up and left on excellent rails heading towards the large horn (good sling point) in grey rock below the pocketed roof. Pull through the roof into the short peapod feature and onto the arete, and then head straight up on great holds to the huge ledge.
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*'''3. 30 m (21)''' Start as for ''Make Tea Not War'' in the left corner of the undercut face broken by several vertical cracks. Move right at the first horizontal rail, then diagonally up right staying below the level of ''MTNW''. Pull up into a steep corner just right of a large, grey fin and left of a ledge. At the small overlap move left and up to a rail under a narrow roof. Go right around the roof and then straight up the face to the top.
  
*'''Pitch 2. 15 m (12)''' Climb straight up to a big ledge. Stance below a roof with a left pointing prong on the lip. Can be combined with Pitch 1.
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'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Nov 2014)
  
*'''Pitch 3. 25 m (22)''' From a large boulder, use laybacks to reach a rail. Move slightly right then reach left to the prong. Cut loose in spectacular fashion and pull up to establish on the face below several vertical laybacks. Continue straight up to the next ledge. Stance below a left facing horn on the lip of the roof a few meters up. This is just right of another vertical crack system above the roof.
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=== The Coy Comet (24) *** ===
  
*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (22)''' Use the horn to pull up past a thin vertical crack until able to stand above the roof. Move left to a layback crack then party on straight up for the summit on great holds.  
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Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
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To the right of ''Cosy Corner'' is a large roof at about 15m height. The route stays left of this roof and heads for the wonderful, juggy face just above and left of the roof. Named after Comet Lovejoy Q2 which made a spectacularly unspectacular appearance near Orion at the time.
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*'''1. 50 m (21)''' Start ~15m right of ''Cosy Corner Direct'' (''CCD''), a few metres left of the overhanging prow. Climb a vague recess with a distinct, white handhold at about 2m. Step right onto a small corner shelf then reach left and up to some laybacks. Move up and right to the beautiful, juggy, undercut face. Climb this, through a small, juggy roof near the top, to a large ledge.
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*'''2. 30 m (24)''' Move 5m left to below two large, leftward pointing flakes in the roof. Jam strenuously in the right, narrower crack (some hand tape is useful) until able to turn the roof. Continue straight up the right hand side of the face above to another big ledge below a huge block.
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*'''3. 35 m (21)''' Start as for ''CCD'' off the top of the huge block. A tricky, poorly protected start to reach a crack. Then move right and climb to the right of ''CCD'' to the top.
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'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2015)
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=== The Steel Fox (23) **** ===
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Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
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Start by using the first pitch of ''Maiden's Prayer'' to access a ledge. Stance up and left, next to a large, white, rectangular block.
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*'''1. 20 m (20)''' From the top of the block move up passing the roof on the left. Head up and left across a face to a roof with a crack through its underside. Pull through on the left into a short corner. Pass a tiny bush to a platform.
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*'''2. 15 m (17)''' Climb diagonally right across a grey slab and up a clean brown corner. Continue up a white arete and then easily to the big ledge (this pitch is shared with ''Baboon Speak'').
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*'''3. 30 m (21)''' Head up the thin, layback crack in the middle of the face, about 4m left of the ''Baboon Speak'' crack. At the narrow roof there is a loose block. Traverse right under this, up, and step back left on the face above. Continue straight up to a large ledge.
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*'''4. 30 m (23)''' Walk 10m left over some boulders, step down, and then another 5m left to belay left of a large, projecting, grey block under a roof and bottomless chimney. Stand on the block, head up to the roof and then left to a jam crack. Fight up into the bottomless chimney and then follow the line of least resistance straight to the top.
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'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Feb 2014)
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=== Iron Maiden (23) ***** ===
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Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
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Start just right of Baboon Speak on the boulder 5m right of ''Maiden's Prayer''.
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*'''Pitch 1. 30 m (23)''' Pull through the roof at the small corner and head up and right to the right hand end of a ledge below a grey, knobbly feature which is directly below an arete 15m up.
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*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (23)''' Climb the knobbly feature, then straight up an orange face and through a bulge to a hand crack 1m left of the arete. Continue up the crack, move right across the arete, and follow a short recess to a spacious platform above the arete.
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*'''Pitch 3. 15 m (12)''' Climb straight up to a big ledge. Stance below a roof with a left pointing prong on the lip. Can be combined with Pitch 1.
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*'''Pitch 4. 25 m (22)''' From a large boulder, use laybacks to reach a rail. Move slightly right then reach left to the prong. Cut loose in spectacular fashion and pull up to establish on the face below several vertical laybacks. Continue straight up to the next ledge. Stance below a left facing horn on the lip of the roof a few meters up. This is just right of another vertical crack system above the roof.
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*'''Pitch 5. 30 m (22)''' Use the horn to pull up past a thin vertical crack until able to stand above the roof. Move left to a layback crack then party on straight up for the summit on great holds.  
  
 
'''FA''': Richard Halsey, Douw Steyn, and Anton Gietl (Dec 2013)
 
'''FA''': Richard Halsey, Douw Steyn, and Anton Gietl (Dec 2013)
Line 71: Line 164:
  
 
*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (24)''' Start where you can easily reach the first rail. Move right towards a small prong underneath the first roof. Use this to reach through to a good, sloping hold around the lip. Place a small wire on the right and then, with the aid of a couple of diagonal edges slightly higher up, pull through to the next rail. Hard and committing. Traverse right and up until able to get onto a small ledge. Stance on the right end of the ledge by a small, orange open book capped by a roof.
 
*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (24)''' Start where you can easily reach the first rail. Move right towards a small prong underneath the first roof. Use this to reach through to a good, sloping hold around the lip. Place a small wire on the right and then, with the aid of a couple of diagonal edges slightly higher up, pull through to the next rail. Hard and committing. Traverse right and up until able to get onto a small ledge. Stance on the right end of the ledge by a small, orange open book capped by a roof.
 
 
*'''Pitch 2. 55 m (21)''' Head rightwards up the book/arete then a bit left to a grey chimney. Above the chimney head up and slightly right again to a rail which is followed for a few metres right until one can pull up into a wide recess. Climb the recess and pull through the roof above using a layback crack. This move can be bypassed more easily 1m to the left. Head easily straight up to the large ledge below the massive open book.
 
*'''Pitch 2. 55 m (21)''' Head rightwards up the book/arete then a bit left to a grey chimney. Above the chimney head up and slightly right again to a rail which is followed for a few metres right until one can pull up into a wide recess. Climb the recess and pull through the roof above using a layback crack. This move can be bypassed more easily 1m to the left. Head easily straight up to the large ledge below the massive open book.
 
 
*'''Pitch 3. 25 m (19)''' In the corner of the open book, behind a massive block, is the easy layback crack of Maiden Voyage. Start up this crack then move diagonally left into the parallel crack. Up this then exit left below some blocks. Stance below the large, prominent, white open book capped by a triangular roof.
 
*'''Pitch 3. 25 m (19)''' In the corner of the open book, behind a massive block, is the easy layback crack of Maiden Voyage. Start up this crack then move diagonally left into the parallel crack. Up this then exit left below some blocks. Stance below the large, prominent, white open book capped by a triangular roof.
 
 
*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (21)''' Pull up into the crack in the corner of the open book then move 3m right into a crack system that passes the roof on the right. Head up this system past the roof then easily straight up to the top. A superb pitch.
 
*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (21)''' Pull up into the crack in the corner of the open book then move 3m right into a crack system that passes the roof on the right. Head up this system past the roof then easily straight up to the top. A superb pitch.
  
 
'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (March 2011)
 
'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (March 2011)
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== Frontal Sector ==
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[[File:Tafelberg Main Wall Frontal Sector small.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Frontal Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Frontal Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). <br>A = Danger Shrew <br>B = Odyssey <br>C = Dithering Heights <br>D = The Swan <br>E = Stargate <br>F = Crouching Tiger Hidden Giraffe <br>G = The Occidental Express <br>H = Iridium Flash <br>I = The Jedi Fish <br>J = Vuvuzela]]
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=== Odyssey (24) **** ===
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Frontal Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
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Start ~10m left of ''Life In The Freezer''. The first pitch is not for the faint hearted.
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*'''Pitch 1. 20 m (24)''' Climb up 2m until able to move left into a shallow recess with a small white flake near the top. Move up and left past the flake (marginal gear). Continue up and slightly right to the first ledge.
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*'''Pitch 2. 25 m (20)''' Traverse 10m left on a good rail until able to pull up onto a narrow shelf below a shallow corner which is ascended to a very wide rail. Traverse left for about 12m until foot holds run out at a point below a layback crack under a roof.
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*'''Pitch 3. 25 m (22)''' Move up the layback and balance left to gain a finger rail below a roof. Move left and then up to a good rail below the next roof. Continue left until this roof terminates and pull up right onto a ledge with a large block on it. Climb up the wide recess above and exit on the right. Traverse about 8m right to stance on a big, black, projecting flake.
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*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (17)''' The Pure Joy Pitch. Climb straight up, pull through a roof about 5m up, then romp straight up to a massive ledge. The next pitch is several meters to the left.
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*'''Pitch 5. 20 m (23)''' Start below the right end of a roof midway up the face. Climb straight up to into the shallow corner above the right end of the roof (crossing ''Lost Chord''). After 2m step left onto the blunt arete and head boldly up the face to stance left of some large blocks.
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*'''Pitch 6. 15 m (21)''' Pull up to a rail below the large roof. Traverse left over the void until able to pull up at the end of the roof. Move up 2m then step right to belay at a comfortable stance.
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*'''Pitch 7. 25 m (13)''' Continue up the short chimney and scramble easily to the top.
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'''FA''': Douw Steyn, Richard Halsey, and Adam Roff (pitches 1 and 2) (Feb 2014)
  
 
=== Dithering Heights (25) ***** ===
 
=== Dithering Heights (25) ***** ===
Line 87: Line 197:
  
 
*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (21)''' From the block use the prong to pull into the corner. Climb up and slightly right up a shallow recess then back left onto some blocks and through an overhang onto a large ledge.
 
*'''Pitch 1. 25 m (21)''' From the block use the prong to pull into the corner. Climb up and slightly right up a shallow recess then back left onto some blocks and through an overhang onto a large ledge.
 
 
*'''Pitch 2. 15 m (25)''' The dithering pitch. Climb a layback flake into a dark red/brown corner below a roof. Rail 4m right to below a small prong. Hard moves up to a rail and up the groove to the big ledge below the huge roof. Stance on the left.
 
*'''Pitch 2. 15 m (25)''' The dithering pitch. Climb a layback flake into a dark red/brown corner below a roof. Rail 4m right to below a small prong. Hard moves up to a rail and up the groove to the big ledge below the huge roof. Stance on the left.
 
 
*'''Pitch 3. 20 m (18)''' Rail left to a semi-hanging stance on the black rock past the huge roof.
 
*'''Pitch 3. 20 m (18)''' Rail left to a semi-hanging stance on the black rock past the huge roof.
 
 
*'''Pitch 4. 50 m (18)''' Straight up to a large ledge. Up a shallow, yellow recess just to the left for another 15m to the huge ledge.
 
*'''Pitch 4. 50 m (18)''' Straight up to a large ledge. Up a shallow, yellow recess just to the left for another 15m to the huge ledge.
 
 
*'''Pitch 5. 35 m (21)''' Climb the short, wide, overhanging crack at the left end of the ledge. Up and left past the blocky roof and up to the top.
 
*'''Pitch 5. 35 m (21)''' Climb the short, wide, overhanging crack at the left end of the ledge. Up and left past the blocky roof and up to the top.
  
Line 105: Line 211:
  
 
*'''Pitch 1. 30 m (23)''' Pull onto the undercut face off a block. Up right to a thin crack. Tricky layback to roof. Undercling left to easier layback crack up to a ledge with blocks. Takeoff from block with hard pulls up to a layback feature. Up left to ledge (Bat's first stance is just to the left).<br />Gear: Work in a couple of decent wires at the layback feature before the last move.
 
*'''Pitch 1. 30 m (23)''' Pull onto the undercut face off a block. Up right to a thin crack. Tricky layback to roof. Undercling left to easier layback crack up to a ledge with blocks. Takeoff from block with hard pulls up to a layback feature. Up left to ledge (Bat's first stance is just to the left).<br />Gear: Work in a couple of decent wires at the layback feature before the last move.
 
 
*'''Pitch 2. 20 m (24)''' From the right of the ledge move up right to small ledge with a block. Hard pull to rail. Rail right for 2m. Hard pull up and right. Easier climbing straight up to just left of a large, pointed block sticking out from a big ledge. (Bat P2 comes up on the left and crosses to the right of the ledge). Walk to left end of ledge.<br />Gear: Tiny Friend or Alien in vertical slot at waist level for first hard pull.
 
*'''Pitch 2. 20 m (24)''' From the right of the ledge move up right to small ledge with a block. Hard pull to rail. Rail right for 2m. Hard pull up and right. Easier climbing straight up to just left of a large, pointed block sticking out from a big ledge. (Bat P2 comes up on the left and crosses to the right of the ledge). Walk to left end of ledge.<br />Gear: Tiny Friend or Alien in vertical slot at waist level for first hard pull.
 
 
*'''Pitch 3. 30 m (23)''' Up to roof. Rail left onto block/flake. Keep traversing left till possible to pull up to next rail via hollow flake. Undercling/jam left to corner. Up to huge roof. Rail back right until able to pull through roof on huge jugs. Up 5m to ledge.
 
*'''Pitch 3. 30 m (23)''' Up to roof. Rail left onto block/flake. Keep traversing left till possible to pull up to next rail via hollow flake. Undercling/jam left to corner. Up to huge roof. Rail back right until able to pull through roof on huge jugs. Up 5m to ledge.
 
 
*'''Pitch 4. 25 m (20)''' Climb the crack with a grass tuft directly above the ledge. Continue straight up through an overhang to the massive ledge.
 
*'''Pitch 4. 25 m (20)''' Climb the crack with a grass tuft directly above the ledge. Continue straight up through an overhang to the massive ledge.
 
 
*'''Pitch 5. 30 m (21)''' 3m right of The Crow's final pitch is another corner/crack starting above a low overhang. Take off from a large block and climb the crack to a small overhang. Rail right 1m then go up and left towards a small layback corner. Straight up to the top finishing up the middle of a superb whitish shield to a 1 foot square parapet.
 
*'''Pitch 5. 30 m (21)''' 3m right of The Crow's final pitch is another corner/crack starting above a low overhang. Take off from a large block and climb the crack to a small overhang. Rail right 1m then go up and left towards a small layback corner. Straight up to the top finishing up the middle of a superb whitish shield to a 1 foot square parapet.
  
Line 123: Line 225:
  
 
*'''Pitch 1. 40 m (18)''' From the belay climb almost straight up tending just slightly leftwards towards a 1m wide, featured roof. Pull through the roof on underclings and continue straight up to the huge ledge.
 
*'''Pitch 1. 40 m (18)''' From the belay climb almost straight up tending just slightly leftwards towards a 1m wide, featured roof. Pull through the roof on underclings and continue straight up to the huge ledge.
 
 
*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (20)''' Between Tiger's and the Frontal's final pitches is an overhanging corner with some vertical cracks. Starting off some large blocks, climb the cracks and up on the right. Up to the top with a final, tricky move past a left pointing flake.
 
*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (20)''' Between Tiger's and the Frontal's final pitches is an overhanging corner with some vertical cracks. Starting off some large blocks, climb the cracks and up on the right. Up to the top with a final, tricky move past a left pointing flake.
  
Line 135: Line 236:
  
 
*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (21)''' Up the pockety rock to the layback. Up this then diagonally right to a flake. Up past rails and right to finish.
 
*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (21)''' Up the pockety rock to the layback. Up this then diagonally right to a flake. Up past rails and right to finish.
 
 
*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (23)''' Start off a block just right of the first pitch. Climb up onto a narrow ledge, move right and up into a wide rail below the roof (#4 cam). Hard move up into the open book. Climb the corner crack to the roof with the giraffe. Turn the roof on the right and reach out left above the roof. Swing left and up onto a small ledge trying not to pull on the big, loose block. Up to a stance on another small ledge level with Grappler's "galloping hand traverse".<br />Gear: #4 Camalot to protect the hard move into the open book.
 
*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (23)''' Start off a block just right of the first pitch. Climb up onto a narrow ledge, move right and up into a wide rail below the roof (#4 cam). Hard move up into the open book. Climb the corner crack to the roof with the giraffe. Turn the roof on the right and reach out left above the roof. Swing left and up onto a small ledge trying not to pull on the big, loose block. Up to a stance on another small ledge level with Grappler's "galloping hand traverse".<br />Gear: #4 Camalot to protect the hard move into the open book.
 
 
*'''Pitch 3. 20 m (24)''' Traverse 3m right to below the next big open book (at the start of the "galloping hand traverse") then do a hard, traddy pull into the corner crack above (grade 23 if you're tall). Climb up to the big roof. Undercling right to the corner and up to ledge.
 
*'''Pitch 3. 20 m (24)''' Traverse 3m right to below the next big open book (at the start of the "galloping hand traverse") then do a hard, traddy pull into the corner crack above (grade 23 if you're tall). Climb up to the big roof. Undercling right to the corner and up to ledge.
 
 
*'''Pitch 4. 40 m (21)''' Climb the nose directly above where you came up. Reach up left for a rail just above the roof. Rail left until able to stand up. Step left then onto the nose. Romp to the massive ledge below the last pitch of Tafelberg Frontal. Walk left about 20m and scramble up onto a big, rectangular block under a low overhang. This is just left of a big, jumbly, blocky corner system. If you are in the right place there will be a Fred Flinstone briefcase just left of the block.
 
*'''Pitch 4. 40 m (21)''' Climb the nose directly above where you came up. Reach up left for a rail just above the roof. Rail left until able to stand up. Step left then onto the nose. Romp to the massive ledge below the last pitch of Tafelberg Frontal. Walk left about 20m and scramble up onto a big, rectangular block under a low overhang. This is just left of a big, jumbly, blocky corner system. If you are in the right place there will be a Fred Flinstone briefcase just left of the block.
 
 
*'''Pitch 5. 30 m (23)''' Reach far left from the block and place gear (Camalot #2 in the handrail under the overhang). Traverse left under the overhang then do a hard move up to laybacks. Reach up left to a crack. Straight up to the summit past a thin move near the top.
 
*'''Pitch 5. 30 m (23)''' Reach far left from the block and place gear (Camalot #2 in the handrail under the overhang). Traverse left under the overhang then do a hard move up to laybacks. Reach up left to a crack. Straight up to the summit past a thin move near the top.
  
Line 154: Line 251:
  
 
*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (16)''' About 10m right of ''Grappler'', climb a recess with a chimney and layback crack to the huge ledge.
 
*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (16)''' About 10m right of ''Grappler'', climb a recess with a chimney and layback crack to the huge ledge.
 
 
*'''Pitch 2. 15 m (22)''' Start from a large block 5m left of ''Grappler'' P2. A tricky start up a short recess leads to a wide rail. Move 2m left to where you can pull through on laybacks. Follow a steep corner to the roof. Traverse left to a cramped stance shared with ''Grappler''.
 
*'''Pitch 2. 15 m (22)''' Start from a large block 5m left of ''Grappler'' P2. A tricky start up a short recess leads to a wide rail. Move 2m left to where you can pull through on laybacks. Follow a steep corner to the roof. Traverse left to a cramped stance shared with ''Grappler''.
 
 
*'''Pitch 3. 15 m (21)''' Head up ~2m to the first rail (below ''Grappler's'' rail). Traverse right around the protruding corner and then keep going until just past the first flake in the roof. Make a hanging stance where a #3 Camalot fits the rail.<br />Gear: Big cams of the Camelot #2 - #4 range are required. Doubles are useful although not absolutely essential.
 
*'''Pitch 3. 15 m (21)''' Head up ~2m to the first rail (below ''Grappler's'' rail). Traverse right around the protruding corner and then keep going until just past the first flake in the roof. Make a hanging stance where a #3 Camalot fits the rail.<br />Gear: Big cams of the Camelot #2 - #4 range are required. Doubles are useful although not absolutely essential.
 
 
*'''Pitch 4. 8 m (23)''' Rail ~4m right and pull through the roof on a dubious flake just before the rail pinches out. Pull onto the face above and up ~2m to a semi-hanging stance at a narrow ledge. This could be combined with the previous pitch but would add a couple of grades.
 
*'''Pitch 4. 8 m (23)''' Rail ~4m right and pull through the roof on a dubious flake just before the rail pinches out. Pull onto the face above and up ~2m to a semi-hanging stance at a narrow ledge. This could be combined with the previous pitch but would add a couple of grades.
 
 
*'''Pitch 5. 30 m (20)''' Climb straight up toward a roof ~10m up. Pull through on the large layback on the left and continue to a large ledge, and then a few meters up to a smaller ledge.
 
*'''Pitch 5. 30 m (20)''' Climb straight up toward a roof ~10m up. Pull through on the large layback on the left and continue to a large ledge, and then a few meters up to a smaller ledge.
 
 
*'''Pitch 6. 20 m (20)''' Head up an orange wall on small flakes and edges to an obvious arch/bridge in the grey rock. Pull through the roof and straight up on featured rock to wide ledge.
 
*'''Pitch 6. 20 m (20)''' Head up an orange wall on small flakes and edges to an obvious arch/bridge in the grey rock. Pull through the roof and straight up on featured rock to wide ledge.
 
 
*'''Pitch 7. 25 m (21)''' Start up a short crack, followed by a rising traverse through a series of inverted steps and underclings to a shelf. Step left and straight up, aiming for a right tending crack through a slight bulge. Tend left to the large ledge.
 
*'''Pitch 7. 25 m (21)''' Start up a short crack, followed by a rising traverse through a series of inverted steps and underclings to a shelf. Step left and straight up, aiming for a right tending crack through a slight bulge. Tend left to the large ledge.
 
 
*'''Pitch 8. 12 m (17)''' Walk 10m left to a corner crack. Climb the corner crack into a smooth right facing corner. After ~5m, step left onto the arete and up to the top.
 
*'''Pitch 8. 12 m (17)''' Walk 10m left to a corner crack. Climb the corner crack into a smooth right facing corner. After ~5m, step left onto the arete and up to the top.
  
Line 179: Line 269:
 
   
 
   
 
*'''Pitch 1. 20 m (23)''' Head up ~5m to the hook, then up a short layback crack. Step right and up to the roof. Traverse ~2m right to the top of an arete, then up to a huge ledge. After belaying, walk 7-8m right to below a featured, hanging block under the narrowest section of the double layer roof above.  
 
*'''Pitch 1. 20 m (23)''' Head up ~5m to the hook, then up a short layback crack. Step right and up to the roof. Traverse ~2m right to the top of an arete, then up to a huge ledge. After belaying, walk 7-8m right to below a featured, hanging block under the narrowest section of the double layer roof above.  
 
 
*'''Pitch 2. 25 m (26)''' The superb In-Your-Element pitch. Climb up and slightly right for ~7m to a roof below the hanging block. Rail ~2m right then pull strenuously left across to the right hand side of the block. Continue up to a wide rail, then over the first layer of the roof to another rail. Crank hard to a hidden, but fantastic jug over the final roof, and make more hard moves diagonally right until you can establish on the face above using good side pulls. Make a hanging stance 3m up at a good rail (small/medium cams).
 
*'''Pitch 2. 25 m (26)''' The superb In-Your-Element pitch. Climb up and slightly right for ~7m to a roof below the hanging block. Rail ~2m right then pull strenuously left across to the right hand side of the block. Continue up to a wide rail, then over the first layer of the roof to another rail. Crank hard to a hidden, but fantastic jug over the final roof, and make more hard moves diagonally right until you can establish on the face above using good side pulls. Make a hanging stance 3m up at a good rail (small/medium cams).
 
 
*'''Pitch 3. 25 m (16)''' Climb straight up towards a projecting block on the skyline. Stance on the large ledge.  
 
*'''Pitch 3. 25 m (16)''' Climb straight up towards a projecting block on the skyline. Stance on the large ledge.  
 
 
*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (21)''' Start just right of ''Sorcerer''. Head up a series of two curving layback flakes until able to traverse 2m right to gain a small, right facing corner. At the top step left onto the gray face and up several meters to a ledge. Continue up to the big ledge and stance on the right of a large block (shared with ''Sorcerer'').
 
*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (21)''' Start just right of ''Sorcerer''. Head up a series of two curving layback flakes until able to traverse 2m right to gain a small, right facing corner. At the top step left onto the gray face and up several meters to a ledge. Continue up to the big ledge and stance on the right of a large block (shared with ''Sorcerer'').
 
 
*'''Pitch 5. 35 m (20)''' Traverse 3m right to a short, undercut crack (shared with ''Jedi Fish'' P3). Start up the crack then head right onto the face. Make a rising traverse to the right, passing above a fragile white flake. Continue traversing until directly below an obvious smooth-looking corner with a layback crack in the golden rock ~15m up. Climb straight up to the layback, then a short face above to the top.  
 
*'''Pitch 5. 35 m (20)''' Traverse 3m right to a short, undercut crack (shared with ''Jedi Fish'' P3). Start up the crack then head right onto the face. Make a rising traverse to the right, passing above a fragile white flake. Continue traversing until directly below an obvious smooth-looking corner with a layback crack in the golden rock ~15m up. Climb straight up to the layback, then a short face above to the top.  
  
Line 197: Line 283:
 
left of ''Tafelberg Frontal'' at a 'tower' cairn.  
 
left of ''Tafelberg Frontal'' at a 'tower' cairn.  
  
*'''Pitch 1. 42 m (20)''' Climb straight up for 2 m on a red face with pockets leading to a grey wall. Pleasant grad 12 climbing to a ledge. Continue up little ledges aiming for the open book on the right (''Sorcerer'' takes the easier line even further right). Climb the open book to the roof, take 2 steps to the left and pull through to good holds just left of a lonely small bush. Step right and move up the face to a good stance 10 m above the roof (tower cairn).
+
*'''Pitch 1. 42 m (20)''' Climb straight up for 2 m on a red face with pockets leading to a grey wall. Pleasant grade 12 climbing to a ledge. Continue up little ledges aiming for the open book on the right (''Sorcerer'' takes the easier line even further right). Climb the open book to the roof, take 2 steps to the left and pull through to good holds just left of a lonely small bush. Step right and move up the face to a good stance 10 m above the roof (tower cairn).
 
+
 
*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (19)''' A tricky move gets one onto the face. Follow a faint straight line of red lichen and then a white streak to a block on a ledge. Say 'Hello' to the 'Fish jumping out of the waves'-feature below a layback crack. Use the fish's back, delicately, to gain the crack, follow that to a hollow sounding flake and another one with better rock. Move left below the little roof and up to the ledge. Stance at the splitter crack.
 
*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (19)''' A tricky move gets one onto the face. Follow a faint straight line of red lichen and then a white streak to a block on a ledge. Say 'Hello' to the 'Fish jumping out of the waves'-feature below a layback crack. Use the fish's back, delicately, to gain the crack, follow that to a hollow sounding flake and another one with better rock. Move left below the little roof and up to the ledge. Stance at the splitter crack.
 +
*'''Pitch 3. 40 m (19)''' Climb the splitter crack and over some blocks. Tend leftwards to avoid the roof, 2 moves up into a leftwards slanting break. Don't follow the break all the way, instead move right onto the face. Straight up to the top. The last 10 climbing meters are on superb orange, featured rock.
  
*'''Pitch 3. 40 m (19)''' Climb the splitter crack and over some blocks. Tend leftwards to avoid the roof, 2 moves up into a leftwards slanting break. Don't follow the break all the way, instead move right onto the face. Straight up to the top. The last 10 climbing meters are on superb orange, featured rock.
 
 
'''FA''': Anita Hintringer and Uwe Pitsch (Feb 2012).
 
'''FA''': Anita Hintringer and Uwe Pitsch (Feb 2012).
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== Right Sector ==
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[[File:Tafelberg_Main_Wall_Right_Sector2.jpg|frame|center|alt=Tafelberg, Main Wall, Right Sector.|Tafelberg, Main Wall, Right Sector. Original image from the guide book '''''Tafelberg & Spout''''' by Tony Lourens (with permission). <br>A = Vuvuzela <br>B = Freedom Feather <br>C = Assegai <br>D = Boombox <br>E = Whistling Woozle <br>F = Fallen Iris <br>G = Lost In Time]]
  
 
=== Vuvuzela (23) ***** ===
 
=== Vuvuzela (23) ***** ===
  
Frontal Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
+
Right Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
  
 
Follows a direct line just right of Digeridoo on the main wall. Prominent features are the purple nose on pitch 3 and the massive corner system on pitch 4 right of the last pitch of Central Direct. Start by doing any two pitches to get to the belay at the end of pitch 2 of Tafelberg Frontal
 
Follows a direct line just right of Digeridoo on the main wall. Prominent features are the purple nose on pitch 3 and the massive corner system on pitch 4 right of the last pitch of Central Direct. Start by doing any two pitches to get to the belay at the end of pitch 2 of Tafelberg Frontal
  
 
*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (16)''' Climb straight up to the left facing corner to a ledge. Belay on a large block on the right.
 
*'''Pitch 1. 15 m (16)''' Climb straight up to the left facing corner to a ledge. Belay on a large block on the right.
 
 
*'''Pitch 2. 25 m (20)''' Climb into the awkward, undercut feature above the block and reach left to a finger crack. Go up past an overhang on the right, then do some thin moves and exit left. Stance on the left under the roof crack (as for Digeridoo).
 
*'''Pitch 2. 25 m (20)''' Climb into the awkward, undercut feature above the block and reach left to a finger crack. Go up past an overhang on the right, then do some thin moves and exit left. Stance on the left under the roof crack (as for Digeridoo).
 
 
*'''Pitch 3. 30 m (19)''' Traverse 3m left, up 3m, then back right onto the purplish nose. Climb the steep break just left of the nose. Exit right and climb straight up easy rock to belay next to a block. (If you step right around the nose and go straight up the grade drops.)
 
*'''Pitch 3. 30 m (19)''' Traverse 3m left, up 3m, then back right onto the purplish nose. Climb the steep break just left of the nose. Exit right and climb straight up easy rock to belay next to a block. (If you step right around the nose and go straight up the grade drops.)
 
 
*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (23)''' Step off the block into the fierce, thin crack up to the small roof. Reach desperately through then move diagonally up left into the massive, left-facing corner system. Climb this to the huge roof and stance on the right.
 
*'''Pitch 4. 30 m (23)''' Step off the block into the fierce, thin crack up to the small roof. Reach desperately through then move diagonally up left into the massive, left-facing corner system. Climb this to the huge roof and stance on the right.
 
 
*'''Pitch 5. 10 m (22)''' Climb the short, sharp layback crack just right of the stance.
 
*'''Pitch 5. 10 m (22)''' Climb the short, sharp layback crack just right of the stance.
  
Line 224: Line 309:
 
=== Freedom Feather (21) **** ===
 
=== Freedom Feather (21) **** ===
  
Frontal Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
+
Right Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
  
 
Another line starting above the massive roof just right of Tafelberg Frontal. Do the first two pitches of the Frontal and walk right along the ledge to about 10m left of where Boomerang goes up. Start at the right hand end of some roofs above you, about 1m right of an obvious recessed corner, and below a white nose.
 
Another line starting above the massive roof just right of Tafelberg Frontal. Do the first two pitches of the Frontal and walk right along the ledge to about 10m left of where Boomerang goes up. Start at the right hand end of some roofs above you, about 1m right of an obvious recessed corner, and below a white nose.
  
 
*'''Pitch 1. 20 m (16)''' Head directly up to the white nose just right of the corner. Reach up to an awesome jug on the tip of the nose and climb up to a big ledge.
 
*'''Pitch 1. 20 m (16)''' Head directly up to the white nose just right of the corner. Reach up to an awesome jug on the tip of the nose and climb up to a big ledge.
 
 
*'''Pitch 2. 35 m (19)''' Pull up onto the face above the stance and up a small, left-facing corner system towards the right hand side of a detached roof that is almost an arch. Rail 2m right to skirt the roof and up to a ledge.  
 
*'''Pitch 2. 35 m (19)''' Pull up onto the face above the stance and up a small, left-facing corner system towards the right hand side of a detached roof that is almost an arch. Rail 2m right to skirt the roof and up to a ledge.  
 
 
*'''Pitch 3. 25 m (20)''' The Improbable Pitch. Start off a block a few metres left of where you just came up. Climb up to the second rail then traverse left past an obvious vertical crack. At some loose blocks head up and slightly left to a small stance.  
 
*'''Pitch 3. 25 m (20)''' The Improbable Pitch. Start off a block a few metres left of where you just came up. Climb up to the second rail then traverse left past an obvious vertical crack. At some loose blocks head up and slightly left to a small stance.  
 
 
*'''Pitch 4. 20 m (21)''' Head straight up past some delicate moves to a huge ledge. Could be combined with the previous pitch.  
 
*'''Pitch 4. 20 m (21)''' Head straight up past some delicate moves to a huge ledge. Could be combined with the previous pitch.  
 
 
*'''Pitch 5. 20 m (21)''' Walk about 8m left to some blocks at the base of a blunt, white nose with layback cracks on either side. Climb up the easier right hand side until able to reach across to the left side. Climb up to a small overlap. Pull through and head up to the base of an impossible looking, smooth, round corner below the summit. Traverse 8m left past a short finger crack to a small stance below a recessed crack.  
 
*'''Pitch 5. 20 m (21)''' Walk about 8m left to some blocks at the base of a blunt, white nose with layback cracks on either side. Climb up the easier right hand side until able to reach across to the left side. Climb up to a small overlap. Pull through and head up to the base of an impossible looking, smooth, round corner below the summit. Traverse 8m left past a short finger crack to a small stance below a recessed crack.  
 
 
*'''Pitch 6. 10 m (17)''' Climb the crack and a delicate move to finish.  
 
*'''Pitch 6. 10 m (17)''' Climb the crack and a delicate move to finish.  
  
 
'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (January 2012)
 
'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (January 2012)
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 +
=== Assegai (24) *** ===
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 +
Right Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
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A straight route crossing ''Boomerang''.
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*'''1. 30 m (24)''' Start ~5m right of ''Freedom Feather'' directly below two narrow corners about 15m up. The right corner has a large undercling flake at the top. Follow a series of overhanging rails, then easy climbing, to a ledge below the corners. Pull up to a rail (about a foot wide), then up into the left corner. Hard moves into the right corner, then exit right onto the face above. Head straight up to the next ledge.
 +
*'''2. 35 m (20)''' Pull up past the narrow part of the roof above (just left of a left pointing fin). Head up and left using parts of the crescent undercling feature to the rail below the main roof. Rail right until able to pull onto a small ledge. Step left and head up, passing a short corner to the Space Station (a glorious stance on a projecting pillar).
 +
*'''3. 35 m (22)''' From the stance, step right onto a large block. A thin rail low on the right takes tiny cams. Above are some vague underlings. Use these and face holds to gain a small, good edge (crux). Match here and make a long move right to a big edge. Head up aiming for the left arching crack. Follow this to where it terminates, and step right onto a brown face and follow good crimps to the top. Belay at good mushrooms. Grade is very height dependant. Significantly easier if over 6ft tall.
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 +
'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Nov 2014)
  
 
=== Boombox (24) ***(*) ===
 
=== Boombox (24) ***(*) ===
Line 249: Line 341:
  
 
*'''Pitch 1. 10 m (17)''' Start directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse over the void until you can move easy diagonally right to a ledge. Stance in an oblique corner, where the right wall is very smooth and rectangular (3m x 1.5m).
 
*'''Pitch 1. 10 m (17)''' Start directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse over the void until you can move easy diagonally right to a ledge. Stance in an oblique corner, where the right wall is very smooth and rectangular (3m x 1.5m).
 
 
*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (21)''' Up the corner and left around a slight bulge to a ledge. Pull through a series of steep, inverted steps and pass the last roof on its right hand side. Move slightly left and then straight up to a big ledge with a large triangular block on it.   
 
*'''Pitch 2. 30 m (21)''' Up the corner and left around a slight bulge to a ledge. Pull through a series of steep, inverted steps and pass the last roof on its right hand side. Move slightly left and then straight up to a big ledge with a large triangular block on it.   
 
 
*'''Pitch 3. 25m (17)''' Starting about 2m left of the block, follow a vague crack and then move slightly right to another crack. Above this pull through the right hand side of the roof at big upside down slot. Head up and slightly right to a huge ledge.  
 
*'''Pitch 3. 25m (17)''' Starting about 2m left of the block, follow a vague crack and then move slightly right to another crack. Above this pull through the right hand side of the roof at big upside down slot. Head up and slightly right to a huge ledge.  
 
 
*'''Pitch 4. 20 m (24)''' This pitch climbs the large left facing corner (to the left of a wide roof at 5m height) and exits left across the face. A tricky start through the thin crack/bulge into the corner. Climb up several meters until the first inverted step,  where you traverse left, and then pull up to the next overhang. Hard moves up to, and left under the final roof until you gain the face above. Stance a few meter higher at the base of a wide, left lending crack. A fairly demanding pitch and solid at the grade.
 
*'''Pitch 4. 20 m (24)''' This pitch climbs the large left facing corner (to the left of a wide roof at 5m height) and exits left across the face. A tricky start through the thin crack/bulge into the corner. Climb up several meters until the first inverted step,  where you traverse left, and then pull up to the next overhang. Hard moves up to, and left under the final roof until you gain the face above. Stance a few meter higher at the base of a wide, left lending crack. A fairly demanding pitch and solid at the grade.
 
 
*'''Pitch 5. 10 m (17)''' Climb the arched crack to the top.
 
*'''Pitch 5. 10 m (17)''' Climb the arched crack to the top.
  
Line 267: Line 355:
  
 
*'''Pitch 1. 30 m (17)''' Start as for Boombox directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse out over the void. Continue to traverse right below a white dihedral then diagonally up and right to a ledge below a big, vertical crack capped by a double roof.  
 
*'''Pitch 1. 30 m (17)''' Start as for Boombox directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse out over the void. Continue to traverse right below a white dihedral then diagonally up and right to a ledge below a big, vertical crack capped by a double roof.  
 
 
*'''Pitch 2. 15 m (22)''' About 3m right of the crack climb straight up to a narrow roof with an obvious undercling on the lip. Pull through to the rail below the next roof. Move 1m right then up into the break through the top roof. A beefy layback leads up to stance on a small ledge with a bush.  
 
*'''Pitch 2. 15 m (22)''' About 3m right of the crack climb straight up to a narrow roof with an obvious undercling on the lip. Pull through to the rail below the next roof. Move 1m right then up into the break through the top roof. A beefy layback leads up to stance on a small ledge with a bush.  
 
 
*'''Pitch 3. 35 m (19)''' Climb straight up to the black roof about 10m up. Pull through on flakes at the widest part. Go up past one big ledge to a second, massive ledge below an obvious corner crack system right of a big roof.  
 
*'''Pitch 3. 35 m (19)''' Climb straight up to the black roof about 10m up. Pull through on flakes at the widest part. Go up past one big ledge to a second, massive ledge below an obvious corner crack system right of a big roof.  
 
 
*'''Pitch 4. 35 m (20)''' Climb the corner crack system exiting right at the top onto a tiny corner ledge. Tricky pull past a layback. Climb the face right of the obvious, black corner crack heading to the right of a projecting arete. Up the grey corner to the top.  
 
*'''Pitch 4. 35 m (20)''' Climb the corner crack system exiting right at the top onto a tiny corner ledge. Tricky pull past a layback. Climb the face right of the obvious, black corner crack heading to the right of a projecting arete. Up the grey corner to the top.  
  
Line 285: Line 370:
  
 
*'''Pitch 1. 40 m (17)''' Start at the end of the ledge directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse out over the void. Pull up to the next level and traverse right a further 30m until a vertical crack below the steep corner with the Dark Arête on the left. Pull up to an excellent stance.  
 
*'''Pitch 1. 40 m (17)''' Start at the end of the ledge directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse out over the void. Pull up to the next level and traverse right a further 30m until a vertical crack below the steep corner with the Dark Arête on the left. Pull up to an excellent stance.  
 
 
*'''Pitch 2. 18 m (19)''' The Dark Arête. Pull up into the steep corner and then move left onto the easy but exposed arête. Climb this to another great stance on the rippled prow.
 
*'''Pitch 2. 18 m (19)''' The Dark Arête. Pull up into the steep corner and then move left onto the easy but exposed arête. Climb this to another great stance on the rippled prow.
 
 
*'''Pitch 3. 35 m (19)''' From the stance, step up onto the shelf on the right. Traverse 4m right to some narrow vertical slots (small cams/wires). Pull up on great edges to a monster pocket. Step left and head up for a corner. Climb the light brown wall on the right of the corner to a ledge. Traverse right under the roof, then climb straight up to the big ledge. Stance at a right-arching layback crack, in brown rock, just right of some stacked blocks.   
 
*'''Pitch 3. 35 m (19)''' From the stance, step up onto the shelf on the right. Traverse 4m right to some narrow vertical slots (small cams/wires). Pull up on great edges to a monster pocket. Step left and head up for a corner. Climb the light brown wall on the right of the corner to a ledge. Traverse right under the roof, then climb straight up to the big ledge. Stance at a right-arching layback crack, in brown rock, just right of some stacked blocks.   
 
 
*'''Pitch 4. 50 m (19)''' Climb the layback to a delicate flake (with small gear in a thin crack to the right). Move up and left to a ledge, then slightly further left until able to climb the orange ramp. Head for a narrow overlap which is passed on the left. Romp up the headwall and near the top tend slightly right to a large flake and featured face (left of a water runoff feature). Belay from the huge, convenient mushroom.  
 
*'''Pitch 4. 50 m (19)''' Climb the layback to a delicate flake (with small gear in a thin crack to the right). Move up and left to a ledge, then slightly further left until able to climb the orange ramp. Head for a narrow overlap which is passed on the left. Romp up the headwall and near the top tend slightly right to a large flake and featured face (left of a water runoff feature). Belay from the huge, convenient mushroom.  
  
 
'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Anton Gietl  (Nov 2013)
 
'''FA''': Richard Halsey and Anton Gietl  (Nov 2013)
 +
 +
=== Lost In Time (25) ***** ===
 +
 +
Right Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg
 +
 +
Steep climbing through some imposing terrain. Large cams including a #4 Camalot useful. Start 20m right of Snake In The Grass. At this point the large roof on the left ends and another starts on the right about 2m higher up.
 +
 +
*'''1. 20 m (25)''' From a projecting, good edge at head height, pull up past three rails into a short brown corner. A hard move (past an old peg) gets one to the roof. Traverse left until the roof almost peters out and crank up to the next rail. Move 2m right, up to the next rail, and back left to another old peg. From here head 3m diagonally up and right across a face to a hanging stance left of a bulge.
 +
*'''2. 15 m (21)''' Climb up and then right to a recess. Continue straight up to a wide rail under a roof. Traverse right until able to pull through the roof at its narrowest point. Stance just above in a vague corner.
 +
*'''3. 25 m (23)''' Step left and head up through a stepped series of roofs to a hand jam rail below the last roof. Head right over the void until able to pull up onto the face. Continue up to a spacious ledge.
 +
*'''4. 35 m (21)''' Climb up on good orange rock, just right of a black scrappy corner, to another ledge. Move right until below a corner and featured arete about 10m higher up. Continue straight up to this corner, and then climb to the right on the featured arete until you reach the walk off ledge.
 +
 +
'''Descent''': Stroll rightwards along the walk off ledge until you can scramble down below the Black Ice Wall. Perhaps one day some strong blokes will find a way from the walk off ledge to the summit.
 +
 +
'''FA''': Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2014)
  
  

Latest revision as of 22:43, 2 March 2015

Rooibosch Sector

Tafelberg, Main Wall, Rooibosch Sector.
Tafelberg, Main Wall, Rooibosch Sector. Original image from the guide book Tafelberg & Spout by Tony Lourens (with permission).
A = My-T-Chai
B = Jasmin And Mr T
C = Serpentine

My-T-Chai (24) *****

Rooibosch Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

The (very) direct version of Rooibosch. Named after a brand of Rooibos Chai tea.

  • 1. 55 m (24) Start up Rooibosch. At the small roof above where Rooibosch heads left, pull through into the thin crack. Continue straight up through the next crack and ever upwards to a neat belay ledge.
  • 2. 20 m (18) Climb the thin recess just left of a blunt, gearless prow.

FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Feb 2015)

Jasmin And Mr T (21) ****

Rooibosch Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

On the right of the Rooibosch wall is a huge roof at about 1/3 height. The route skirts this roof on the left then heads straight up and through another roof at about 2/3 height.

  • 1. 20 m (20) About 30m right of the tunnel scramble gulley is a short, slightly left facing, orange wall with three vertical cracks. Climb these cracks to the huge ledge below the massive roof (the same ledge from which Rooibosch starts).
  • 2. 50 m (18) Start about 3m left of the big crack where Tea Bag starts. Climb a thin crack in a short, orange face to a small roof. Pull through and move up until you can rail right past a chockstone in the big crack at foot level and around the corner. Pull up and continue up until you can rail right again across the face to a prominent notch on the skyline. Head up and left towards a layback corner and up to a large ledge.
  • 3. 25 m (21) Above the ledge is a roof with a rail that heads out and right and into a shallow, rightward tending recess capped by a small roof. Follow the rail and pull up into the recess. Follow it to pass the roof on the right and continue up some cracks to the top.

FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2015)

Serpentine (25) ****

Rooibosch Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

On the right of the Rooibosch wall is a huge roof at about 1/3 height. The route climbs up to the middle of this roof then rails out spectacularly rightwards to pass it before continuing via another roof higher up to the top.

  • 1. 25 m (15) About 50m right of the tunnel scramble gulley is a slightly overhanging, orange recess directly below a prominent, leftward protruding prow on the massive roof above. Climb this recess to the huge ledge (the same ledge from which Rooibosch starts).
  • 2. 30 m (25) Move across the ledge to the base of the wall directly below the middle of the huge roof. Climb the crack leading up to the notch in the first level of roof. Pull through the notch to reach the big rail under the main roof. Rail right until able to pull onto the face above using great pockets and a good crack. Move up to the next rail then head left until able to pull up to a small ledge. Make a semi-hanging stance using small cams. A superb and wild pitch.
    Gear: A #4 and a #3 Camalot and long slings are useful for the rail and some small cams for the stance.
  • 3. 30 m (17) Climb straight up to a big ledge. Continue up to the next big ledge.
  • 4. 25 m (14) Move up ~6m on the right of the big roof to the second roof. Rail left until the roof ends. Stand up above the roof, move left, and up to the top.

FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2015)

Maiden's Sector

Tafelberg, Main Wall, Maiden's Sector.
Tafelberg, Main Wall, Maiden's Sector. Original image from the guide book Tafelberg & Spout by Tony Lourens (with permission).
A = Amarula
B = Cape Velvet
C = The Thin Blue Lime
D = Warlock
E = Make Tea Not War
F = The Ringmaster
G = The Coy Comet
H = Sly And Slinky
I = The Steel Fox
J = Iron Maiden
K = Danger Shrew
L = Odyssey
M = Dithering Heights

Amarula (23) ****

Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Takes some golden bulges and a wild roof just right of ‘Ice Tea’. Scramble up one level and find a beach/cave with a diving board (cairn) that offers footing to an undercut start. (Level with the first stance of Ice Tea)

  • Pitch 1. 25m (19) Step off the diving board onto the wall, up to the roof, traverse right to the thinnest part of the roof, and then continue up to the following ledge.
  • Pitch 2. 30m (23) An undercut start off of a big horn (there used to be two horns). Continue slightly right past some rails to the golden bulges, and climb the right-most crack. Continue up finger cracks on the right and carry on straight up to exit the crux. Continue up for another 10m.
  • Pitch 3 25m (21) Aim for the obvious 3m roof with an apparently off-width break. Jam inside the crack, stretch for jugs on the left lip, and make a mind-bending cutloose to finish on easy territory. Stance 5 – 10m above the lip.
  • Pitch 4. 50m (18) Straight, and follow the most appealing line to the top.

Cape Velvet (25) *****

Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

A varied route just right of Amarula with a stunning arete pitch and contender for the best designed belay stance on the mountain.

  • Pitch 1. 15 m (22) Start 5m right of Amarula on top of some blocks. Up easily to a large rail below a roof. Move left and pull through the roof onto a small platform. Head straight up the smooth recess to a good ledge.
  • Pitch 2. 20 m (25) Head up and left to a wide rail below an overhanging nose. On the left of the nose there is a narrow crack (tiny cam required). Pull up into the higher vertical crack and crank to a horizontal rail. Step right around the nose and up a short layback to a thin rail. Step back left across the nose and then up a series of laybacks to a fantastic stance above the prow.
    Gear: Very small cam (eg. C3 000) to protect the first move onto the nose.
  • Pitch 3. 45 m (21) Climb up and right into a bottomless chimney. Continue up and step right onto a large split block. Tackle the steep jam crack (with an offwidth to the right). Move right around the corner onto a ledge and straight up to the huge ledge.
  • Pitch 4. 20 m (16) Step off a wobbly block and climb a golden, polished arete (just right of a gulley) and then easy slabs to the top. This is probably shared with Ice Tea.

FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (March 2013)

The Thin Blue Lime (19) ***

Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Consistent moderate climbing around Lemon.

  • 1. 20 m (19) Start as for Mothers. Climb diagonally up the right hand face to the roof. Pull through at a crack about 1m left of the end of the roof. Traverse 4m left on the platform to stance below a blunt arete.
  • 2. 45 m (18) Head up and left to the centre of the brown face. Head up and aim for the bottomless, left facing, V-shaped groove. Squeeze up this (the Lemon Squeeze) and step left onto the face as soon as possible. Climb up, though a small roof, and follow good holds to a small ledge.
  • 3. 30 m (18) Head up a few meters to below a large, left facing prow. Climb up the short face right of this to a series of vertical cracks. Straight to top.

FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Feb 2015)

Warlock (26) ****

Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

A steep, demanding route crossing Mothers. The top pitch offers superb climbing in a wild position.

  • 1. 40 m (18) Start 5m left of Cosy Corner. Climb up to a large post box slot a few meters up. Move slightly up and right to another large horizontal slot. From here move diagonally up and left to a ledge below a brown face. Head straight up this face to a ledge.
  • 2. 30 m (25) Climb the bulging face to a ledge below and right of a big roof. Step left and make some hard moves to gain the rail under the roof. Traverse left until able to pull past the left side of the roof. Head straight up following large layback features to a wide ledge.
  • 3. 25 m (26) Start up a break about 5m left of a large left tending layback crack system. Climb straight up the break to the roof. Rail about 2m right until able to make some strenuous pulls though the roof (about 1m left of the narrowest point) into the corner above. Move up and right to below the final roof. Pull up and left using layback holds to establish on the face above. Continue straight up to the top.

FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2015)

Make Tea Not War (20) ***

Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

A line between Mothers and Cosy Corner. The rock quality for the first 10m is not great, but then improves greatly. The second and third pitches are excellent.

  • Pitch 1. 25 m (17) Start 1m left of Cosy Corner and head straight up and past a vertical crack in the steep section about 20m up. Tend slightly left, passing one ledge, to a stance on the second ledge in a wide corner.
  • Pitch 2. 45 m (20) Climb the largest layback crack in the wide corner to some large horizontal breaks, Move slightly right and up to below a steep crack and pocketed face on good quality brown rock. Pull through the bulge and straight up the face for about 15m to a rail below a slight overhang. Swing round 2m to the right and then straight up featured groove/face to a flat platform just below the large rocky ledge. Belay here, and then scramble up right to below the right hand wall of the huge corner.
  • Pitch 3. 15 m (17) The Power Hog pitch. Start up a vague layback and make a rising traverse across the compact white face (with wide vertical cracks) and under a projecting nose to a neat stance capped by a small roof on the left.
  • Pitch 4. 30 m (18) Pass the right side of the small roof, and up a few meters to a finger rail, below a very narrow overhang. Traverse left about 2m and then straight up to the top.

FA: Richard Halsey, Anthony Hall and Jonathan Hajos (April 2011)

The Ringmaster (23) ****

Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Pitch 2 offers a wild, pumpy, and exposed roof, while pitch 3 has excellent climbing on some vertical cracks.

  • 1. 45 m (19) Start 3m right of Cosy Corner Direct below a large layback crack. Climb the layback, then step left to a short brown arete above the Cosy Corner Direct crack. Climb this, then easy rock to a dark brown face. Climb either crack in the centre of the face and stance at a blocky corner below the large roof system above and left.
  • 2. 45 m (23) Move diagonally up and left on excellent rails heading towards the large horn (good sling point) in grey rock below the pocketed roof. Pull through the roof into the short peapod feature and onto the arete, and then head straight up on great holds to the huge ledge.
  • 3. 30 m (21) Start as for Make Tea Not War in the left corner of the undercut face broken by several vertical cracks. Move right at the first horizontal rail, then diagonally up right staying below the level of MTNW. Pull up into a steep corner just right of a large, grey fin and left of a ledge. At the small overlap move left and up to a rail under a narrow roof. Go right around the roof and then straight up the face to the top.

FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Nov 2014)

The Coy Comet (24) ***

Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

To the right of Cosy Corner is a large roof at about 15m height. The route stays left of this roof and heads for the wonderful, juggy face just above and left of the roof. Named after Comet Lovejoy Q2 which made a spectacularly unspectacular appearance near Orion at the time.

  • 1. 50 m (21) Start ~15m right of Cosy Corner Direct (CCD), a few metres left of the overhanging prow. Climb a vague recess with a distinct, white handhold at about 2m. Step right onto a small corner shelf then reach left and up to some laybacks. Move up and right to the beautiful, juggy, undercut face. Climb this, through a small, juggy roof near the top, to a large ledge.
  • 2. 30 m (24) Move 5m left to below two large, leftward pointing flakes in the roof. Jam strenuously in the right, narrower crack (some hand tape is useful) until able to turn the roof. Continue straight up the right hand side of the face above to another big ledge below a huge block.
  • 3. 35 m (21) Start as for CCD off the top of the huge block. A tricky, poorly protected start to reach a crack. Then move right and climb to the right of CCD to the top.

FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2015)

The Steel Fox (23) ****

Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Start by using the first pitch of Maiden's Prayer to access a ledge. Stance up and left, next to a large, white, rectangular block.

  • 1. 20 m (20) From the top of the block move up passing the roof on the left. Head up and left across a face to a roof with a crack through its underside. Pull through on the left into a short corner. Pass a tiny bush to a platform.
  • 2. 15 m (17) Climb diagonally right across a grey slab and up a clean brown corner. Continue up a white arete and then easily to the big ledge (this pitch is shared with Baboon Speak).
  • 3. 30 m (21) Head up the thin, layback crack in the middle of the face, about 4m left of the Baboon Speak crack. At the narrow roof there is a loose block. Traverse right under this, up, and step back left on the face above. Continue straight up to a large ledge.
  • 4. 30 m (23) Walk 10m left over some boulders, step down, and then another 5m left to belay left of a large, projecting, grey block under a roof and bottomless chimney. Stand on the block, head up to the roof and then left to a jam crack. Fight up into the bottomless chimney and then follow the line of least resistance straight to the top.

FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Feb 2014)

Iron Maiden (23) *****

Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Start just right of Baboon Speak on the boulder 5m right of Maiden's Prayer.

  • Pitch 1. 30 m (23) Pull through the roof at the small corner and head up and right to the right hand end of a ledge below a grey, knobbly feature which is directly below an arete 15m up.
  • Pitch 2. 30 m (23) Climb the knobbly feature, then straight up an orange face and through a bulge to a hand crack 1m left of the arete. Continue up the crack, move right across the arete, and follow a short recess to a spacious platform above the arete.
  • Pitch 3. 15 m (12) Climb straight up to a big ledge. Stance below a roof with a left pointing prong on the lip. Can be combined with Pitch 1.
  • Pitch 4. 25 m (22) From a large boulder, use laybacks to reach a rail. Move slightly right then reach left to the prong. Cut loose in spectacular fashion and pull up to establish on the face below several vertical laybacks. Continue straight up to the next ledge. Stance below a left facing horn on the lip of the roof a few meters up. This is just right of another vertical crack system above the roof.
  • Pitch 5. 30 m (22) Use the horn to pull up past a thin vertical crack until able to stand above the roof. Move left to a layback crack then party on straight up for the summit on great holds.

FA: Richard Halsey, Douw Steyn, and Anton Gietl (Dec 2013)

Danger Shrew (24) ****

Maidens Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Finds a break through the big roofs above the walk-in ledge between Maidens Prayer and Bat. About 20m right of the start of Lost Chord is a set of rails heading up and right above the roof. This is the first pitch.

  • Pitch 1. 15 m (24) Start where you can easily reach the first rail. Move right towards a small prong underneath the first roof. Use this to reach through to a good, sloping hold around the lip. Place a small wire on the right and then, with the aid of a couple of diagonal edges slightly higher up, pull through to the next rail. Hard and committing. Traverse right and up until able to get onto a small ledge. Stance on the right end of the ledge by a small, orange open book capped by a roof.
  • Pitch 2. 55 m (21) Head rightwards up the book/arete then a bit left to a grey chimney. Above the chimney head up and slightly right again to a rail which is followed for a few metres right until one can pull up into a wide recess. Climb the recess and pull through the roof above using a layback crack. This move can be bypassed more easily 1m to the left. Head easily straight up to the large ledge below the massive open book.
  • Pitch 3. 25 m (19) In the corner of the open book, behind a massive block, is the easy layback crack of Maiden Voyage. Start up this crack then move diagonally left into the parallel crack. Up this then exit left below some blocks. Stance below the large, prominent, white open book capped by a triangular roof.
  • Pitch 4. 30 m (21) Pull up into the crack in the corner of the open book then move 3m right into a crack system that passes the roof on the right. Head up this system past the roof then easily straight up to the top. A superb pitch.

FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (March 2011)

Frontal Sector

Tafelberg, Main Wall, Frontal Sector.
Tafelberg, Main Wall, Frontal Sector. Original image from the guide book Tafelberg & Spout by Tony Lourens (with permission).
A = Danger Shrew
B = Odyssey
C = Dithering Heights
D = The Swan
E = Stargate
F = Crouching Tiger Hidden Giraffe
G = The Occidental Express
H = Iridium Flash
I = The Jedi Fish
J = Vuvuzela

Odyssey (24) ****

Frontal Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Start ~10m left of Life In The Freezer. The first pitch is not for the faint hearted.

  • Pitch 1. 20 m (24) Climb up 2m until able to move left into a shallow recess with a small white flake near the top. Move up and left past the flake (marginal gear). Continue up and slightly right to the first ledge.
  • Pitch 2. 25 m (20) Traverse 10m left on a good rail until able to pull up onto a narrow shelf below a shallow corner which is ascended to a very wide rail. Traverse left for about 12m until foot holds run out at a point below a layback crack under a roof.
  • Pitch 3. 25 m (22) Move up the layback and balance left to gain a finger rail below a roof. Move left and then up to a good rail below the next roof. Continue left until this roof terminates and pull up right onto a ledge with a large block on it. Climb up the wide recess above and exit on the right. Traverse about 8m right to stance on a big, black, projecting flake.
  • Pitch 4. 30 m (17) The Pure Joy Pitch. Climb straight up, pull through a roof about 5m up, then romp straight up to a massive ledge. The next pitch is several meters to the left.
  • Pitch 5. 20 m (23) Start below the right end of a roof midway up the face. Climb straight up to into the shallow corner above the right end of the roof (crossing Lost Chord). After 2m step left onto the blunt arete and head boldly up the face to stance left of some large blocks.
  • Pitch 6. 15 m (21) Pull up to a rail below the large roof. Traverse left over the void until able to pull up at the end of the roof. Move up 2m then step right to belay at a comfortable stance.
  • Pitch 7. 25 m (13) Continue up the short chimney and scramble easily to the top.

FA: Douw Steyn, Richard Halsey, and Adam Roff (pitches 1 and 2) (Feb 2014)

Dithering Heights (25) *****

Frontal Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Starts about 10m right of Bat off a rectangular black block below a leftward pointing prong and short corner/crack. The route heads straight up through a large, dark red corner to the right hand side of the large roof then does an airy, Oceans Of Air like traverse left under the roof to escape straight up the blunt corner system to the top.

  • Pitch 1. 25 m (21) From the block use the prong to pull into the corner. Climb up and slightly right up a shallow recess then back left onto some blocks and through an overhang onto a large ledge.
  • Pitch 2. 15 m (25) The dithering pitch. Climb a layback flake into a dark red/brown corner below a roof. Rail 4m right to below a small prong. Hard moves up to a rail and up the groove to the big ledge below the huge roof. Stance on the left.
  • Pitch 3. 20 m (18) Rail left to a semi-hanging stance on the black rock past the huge roof.
  • Pitch 4. 50 m (18) Straight up to a large ledge. Up a shallow, yellow recess just to the left for another 15m to the huge ledge.
  • Pitch 5. 35 m (21) Climb the short, wide, overhanging crack at the left end of the ledge. Up and left past the blocky roof and up to the top.

FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2011)

The Swan (24) *****

Frontal Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

This superb route follows a line just left of The Crow. The last pitch is just right of The Crow's final pitch. Start 20m left of The Crow's corner. A natural stone chair is found at the base of the route.

  • Pitch 1. 30 m (23) Pull onto the undercut face off a block. Up right to a thin crack. Tricky layback to roof. Undercling left to easier layback crack up to a ledge with blocks. Takeoff from block with hard pulls up to a layback feature. Up left to ledge (Bat's first stance is just to the left).
    Gear: Work in a couple of decent wires at the layback feature before the last move.
  • Pitch 2. 20 m (24) From the right of the ledge move up right to small ledge with a block. Hard pull to rail. Rail right for 2m. Hard pull up and right. Easier climbing straight up to just left of a large, pointed block sticking out from a big ledge. (Bat P2 comes up on the left and crosses to the right of the ledge). Walk to left end of ledge.
    Gear: Tiny Friend or Alien in vertical slot at waist level for first hard pull.
  • Pitch 3. 30 m (23) Up to roof. Rail left onto block/flake. Keep traversing left till possible to pull up to next rail via hollow flake. Undercling/jam left to corner. Up to huge roof. Rail back right until able to pull through roof on huge jugs. Up 5m to ledge.
  • Pitch 4. 25 m (20) Climb the crack with a grass tuft directly above the ledge. Continue straight up through an overhang to the massive ledge.
  • Pitch 5. 30 m (21) 3m right of The Crow's final pitch is another corner/crack starting above a low overhang. Take off from a large block and climb the crack to a small overhang. Rail right 1m then go up and left towards a small layback corner. Straight up to the top finishing up the middle of a superb whitish shield to a 1 foot square parapet.

FA: Adam Roff, Douw Steyn, Gosia Lipinska (Pitches 1 & 2) (2010)

Stargate (20) ****

Frontal Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Fills in the gap between Bat and Crouching Tiger which is protected by the impenetrable, huge roof at the bottom. Use a space portal to teleport to the start of the route in the middle of the black face above the roof. Alternatively, climb part of any route on the side of the roof and then traverse in to the middle of the black face. The traverse is at the level of the second stance of Crouching Tiger or pitch four of Gotham City. Make a hanging stance just above a large, black flake about 10m left of Tiger's third pitch.

  • Pitch 1. 40 m (18) From the belay climb almost straight up tending just slightly leftwards towards a 1m wide, featured roof. Pull through the roof on underclings and continue straight up to the huge ledge.
  • Pitch 2. 30 m (20) Between Tiger's and the Frontal's final pitches is an overhanging corner with some vertical cracks. Starting off some large blocks, climb the cracks and up on the right. Up to the top with a final, tricky move past a left pointing flake.

FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2011)

Crouching Tiger Hidden Giraffe (24) *****

Frontal Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Takes the big corner system dodged by Grappler, then up the hanging nose above. Has a spicy nip in the last pitch. Need a #4 Camalot for pitch 2. Start midway between Gotham City and Grappler at pockety rock below a layback edge at 5m.

  • Pitch 1. 15 m (21) Up the pockety rock to the layback. Up this then diagonally right to a flake. Up past rails and right to finish.
  • Pitch 2. 30 m (23) Start off a block just right of the first pitch. Climb up onto a narrow ledge, move right and up into a wide rail below the roof (#4 cam). Hard move up into the open book. Climb the corner crack to the roof with the giraffe. Turn the roof on the right and reach out left above the roof. Swing left and up onto a small ledge trying not to pull on the big, loose block. Up to a stance on another small ledge level with Grappler's "galloping hand traverse".
    Gear: #4 Camalot to protect the hard move into the open book.
  • Pitch 3. 20 m (24) Traverse 3m right to below the next big open book (at the start of the "galloping hand traverse") then do a hard, traddy pull into the corner crack above (grade 23 if you're tall). Climb up to the big roof. Undercling right to the corner and up to ledge.
  • Pitch 4. 40 m (21) Climb the nose directly above where you came up. Reach up left for a rail just above the roof. Rail left until able to stand up. Step left then onto the nose. Romp to the massive ledge below the last pitch of Tafelberg Frontal. Walk left about 20m and scramble up onto a big, rectangular block under a low overhang. This is just left of a big, jumbly, blocky corner system. If you are in the right place there will be a Fred Flinstone briefcase just left of the block.
  • Pitch 5. 30 m (23) Reach far left from the block and place gear (Camalot #2 in the handrail under the overhang). Traverse left under the overhang then do a hard move up to laybacks. Reach up left to a crack. Straight up to the summit past a thin move near the top.

FA: Adam Roff, Francie Buhrmann, Gosia Lipinska (2008)
FFA: Gosia Lipinska, Douw Steyn, Willem le Roux (2009)

The Occidental Express (23) ***

Frontal Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

This sustained route features a wild, pumpy traverse in an airy position.

  • Pitch 1. 15 m (16) About 10m right of Grappler, climb a recess with a chimney and layback crack to the huge ledge.
  • Pitch 2. 15 m (22) Start from a large block 5m left of Grappler P2. A tricky start up a short recess leads to a wide rail. Move 2m left to where you can pull through on laybacks. Follow a steep corner to the roof. Traverse left to a cramped stance shared with Grappler.
  • Pitch 3. 15 m (21) Head up ~2m to the first rail (below Grappler's rail). Traverse right around the protruding corner and then keep going until just past the first flake in the roof. Make a hanging stance where a #3 Camalot fits the rail.
    Gear: Big cams of the Camelot #2 - #4 range are required. Doubles are useful although not absolutely essential.
  • Pitch 4. 8 m (23) Rail ~4m right and pull through the roof on a dubious flake just before the rail pinches out. Pull onto the face above and up ~2m to a semi-hanging stance at a narrow ledge. This could be combined with the previous pitch but would add a couple of grades.
  • Pitch 5. 30 m (20) Climb straight up toward a roof ~10m up. Pull through on the large layback on the left and continue to a large ledge, and then a few meters up to a smaller ledge.
  • Pitch 6. 20 m (20) Head up an orange wall on small flakes and edges to an obvious arch/bridge in the grey rock. Pull through the roof and straight up on featured rock to wide ledge.
  • Pitch 7. 25 m (21) Start up a short crack, followed by a rising traverse through a series of inverted steps and underclings to a shelf. Step left and straight up, aiming for a right tending crack through a slight bulge. Tend left to the large ledge.
  • Pitch 8. 12 m (17) Walk 10m left to a corner crack. Climb the corner crack into a smooth right facing corner. After ~5m, step left onto the arete and up to the top.

FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (March 2013)

Iridium Flash (26) ****

Frontal Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

The route breaks through the big roof between Grappler and The Frontal with steep and spectacular climbing. Starts ~30m left of The Frontal, just left of a big roof and under a hook shaped feature at the base of a layback crack. Some extra medium size cams are useful on pitch 2.

  • Pitch 1. 20 m (23) Head up ~5m to the hook, then up a short layback crack. Step right and up to the roof. Traverse ~2m right to the top of an arete, then up to a huge ledge. After belaying, walk 7-8m right to below a featured, hanging block under the narrowest section of the double layer roof above.
  • Pitch 2. 25 m (26) The superb In-Your-Element pitch. Climb up and slightly right for ~7m to a roof below the hanging block. Rail ~2m right then pull strenuously left across to the right hand side of the block. Continue up to a wide rail, then over the first layer of the roof to another rail. Crank hard to a hidden, but fantastic jug over the final roof, and make more hard moves diagonally right until you can establish on the face above using good side pulls. Make a hanging stance 3m up at a good rail (small/medium cams).
  • Pitch 3. 25 m (16) Climb straight up towards a projecting block on the skyline. Stance on the large ledge.
  • Pitch 4. 30 m (21) Start just right of Sorcerer. Head up a series of two curving layback flakes until able to traverse 2m right to gain a small, right facing corner. At the top step left onto the gray face and up several meters to a ledge. Continue up to the big ledge and stance on the right of a large block (shared with Sorcerer).
  • Pitch 5. 35 m (20) Traverse 3m right to a short, undercut crack (shared with Jedi Fish P3). Start up the crack then head right onto the face. Make a rising traverse to the right, passing above a fragile white flake. Continue traversing until directly below an obvious smooth-looking corner with a layback crack in the golden rock ~15m up. Climb straight up to the layback, then a short face above to the top.

FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2013)

The Jedi Fish (20) ****

Frontal Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Takes a fairly direct line to the right of Sorcerer. Start a few meters left of Tafelberg Frontal at a 'tower' cairn.

  • Pitch 1. 42 m (20) Climb straight up for 2 m on a red face with pockets leading to a grey wall. Pleasant grade 12 climbing to a ledge. Continue up little ledges aiming for the open book on the right (Sorcerer takes the easier line even further right). Climb the open book to the roof, take 2 steps to the left and pull through to good holds just left of a lonely small bush. Step right and move up the face to a good stance 10 m above the roof (tower cairn).
  • Pitch 2. 30 m (19) A tricky move gets one onto the face. Follow a faint straight line of red lichen and then a white streak to a block on a ledge. Say 'Hello' to the 'Fish jumping out of the waves'-feature below a layback crack. Use the fish's back, delicately, to gain the crack, follow that to a hollow sounding flake and another one with better rock. Move left below the little roof and up to the ledge. Stance at the splitter crack.
  • Pitch 3. 40 m (19) Climb the splitter crack and over some blocks. Tend leftwards to avoid the roof, 2 moves up into a leftwards slanting break. Don't follow the break all the way, instead move right onto the face. Straight up to the top. The last 10 climbing meters are on superb orange, featured rock.

FA: Anita Hintringer and Uwe Pitsch (Feb 2012).

Right Sector

Tafelberg, Main Wall, Right Sector.
Tafelberg, Main Wall, Right Sector. Original image from the guide book Tafelberg & Spout by Tony Lourens (with permission).
A = Vuvuzela
B = Freedom Feather
C = Assegai
D = Boombox
E = Whistling Woozle
F = Fallen Iris
G = Lost In Time

Vuvuzela (23) *****

Right Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Follows a direct line just right of Digeridoo on the main wall. Prominent features are the purple nose on pitch 3 and the massive corner system on pitch 4 right of the last pitch of Central Direct. Start by doing any two pitches to get to the belay at the end of pitch 2 of Tafelberg Frontal

  • Pitch 1. 15 m (16) Climb straight up to the left facing corner to a ledge. Belay on a large block on the right.
  • Pitch 2. 25 m (20) Climb into the awkward, undercut feature above the block and reach left to a finger crack. Go up past an overhang on the right, then do some thin moves and exit left. Stance on the left under the roof crack (as for Digeridoo).
  • Pitch 3. 30 m (19) Traverse 3m left, up 3m, then back right onto the purplish nose. Climb the steep break just left of the nose. Exit right and climb straight up easy rock to belay next to a block. (If you step right around the nose and go straight up the grade drops.)
  • Pitch 4. 30 m (23) Step off the block into the fierce, thin crack up to the small roof. Reach desperately through then move diagonally up left into the massive, left-facing corner system. Climb this to the huge roof and stance on the right.
  • Pitch 5. 10 m (22) Climb the short, sharp layback crack just right of the stance.

FA: Adam Roff and Francie Buhrmann (2008) FFA of Pitch 5: Douw Steyn and Ant Hall (2009)

Freedom Feather (21) ****

Right Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Another line starting above the massive roof just right of Tafelberg Frontal. Do the first two pitches of the Frontal and walk right along the ledge to about 10m left of where Boomerang goes up. Start at the right hand end of some roofs above you, about 1m right of an obvious recessed corner, and below a white nose.

  • Pitch 1. 20 m (16) Head directly up to the white nose just right of the corner. Reach up to an awesome jug on the tip of the nose and climb up to a big ledge.
  • Pitch 2. 35 m (19) Pull up onto the face above the stance and up a small, left-facing corner system towards the right hand side of a detached roof that is almost an arch. Rail 2m right to skirt the roof and up to a ledge.
  • Pitch 3. 25 m (20) The Improbable Pitch. Start off a block a few metres left of where you just came up. Climb up to the second rail then traverse left past an obvious vertical crack. At some loose blocks head up and slightly left to a small stance.
  • Pitch 4. 20 m (21) Head straight up past some delicate moves to a huge ledge. Could be combined with the previous pitch.
  • Pitch 5. 20 m (21) Walk about 8m left to some blocks at the base of a blunt, white nose with layback cracks on either side. Climb up the easier right hand side until able to reach across to the left side. Climb up to a small overlap. Pull through and head up to the base of an impossible looking, smooth, round corner below the summit. Traverse 8m left past a short finger crack to a small stance below a recessed crack.
  • Pitch 6. 10 m (17) Climb the crack and a delicate move to finish.

FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (January 2012)

Assegai (24) ***

Right Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

A straight route crossing Boomerang.

  • 1. 30 m (24) Start ~5m right of Freedom Feather directly below two narrow corners about 15m up. The right corner has a large undercling flake at the top. Follow a series of overhanging rails, then easy climbing, to a ledge below the corners. Pull up to a rail (about a foot wide), then up into the left corner. Hard moves into the right corner, then exit right onto the face above. Head straight up to the next ledge.
  • 2. 35 m (20) Pull up past the narrow part of the roof above (just left of a left pointing fin). Head up and left using parts of the crescent undercling feature to the rail below the main roof. Rail right until able to pull onto a small ledge. Step left and head up, passing a short corner to the Space Station (a glorious stance on a projecting pillar).
  • 3. 35 m (22) From the stance, step right onto a large block. A thin rail low on the right takes tiny cams. Above are some vague underlings. Use these and face holds to gain a small, good edge (crux). Match here and make a long move right to a big edge. Head up aiming for the left arching crack. Follow this to where it terminates, and step right onto a brown face and follow good crimps to the top. Belay at good mushrooms. Grade is very height dependant. Significantly easier if over 6ft tall.

FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Nov 2014)

Boombox (24) ***(*)

Right Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Takes a fairly direct line to the right of Boomerang Direct. Start by doing any approach pitches to get to the right-most end of the ledge where pitch 3 of Boomerang begins.

  • Pitch 1. 10 m (17) Start directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse over the void until you can move easy diagonally right to a ledge. Stance in an oblique corner, where the right wall is very smooth and rectangular (3m x 1.5m).
  • Pitch 2. 30 m (21) Up the corner and left around a slight bulge to a ledge. Pull through a series of steep, inverted steps and pass the last roof on its right hand side. Move slightly left and then straight up to a big ledge with a large triangular block on it.
  • Pitch 3. 25m (17) Starting about 2m left of the block, follow a vague crack and then move slightly right to another crack. Above this pull through the right hand side of the roof at big upside down slot. Head up and slightly right to a huge ledge.
  • Pitch 4. 20 m (24) This pitch climbs the large left facing corner (to the left of a wide roof at 5m height) and exits left across the face. A tricky start through the thin crack/bulge into the corner. Climb up several meters until the first inverted step, where you traverse left, and then pull up to the next overhang. Hard moves up to, and left under the final roof until you gain the face above. Stance a few meter higher at the base of a wide, left lending crack. A fairly demanding pitch and solid at the grade.
  • Pitch 5. 10 m (17) Climb the arched crack to the top.

FA: Richard Halsey and Uwe Pitsch (Oct 2011). FFA of Pitch 4: Richard Halsey.

Whistling Woozle (22) ****

Right Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Another route starting off the ledge above the huge roof right of the Frontal. Start at the right hand end of the ledge (as for Boombox).

  • Pitch 1. 30 m (17) Start as for Boombox directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse out over the void. Continue to traverse right below a white dihedral then diagonally up and right to a ledge below a big, vertical crack capped by a double roof.
  • Pitch 2. 15 m (22) About 3m right of the crack climb straight up to a narrow roof with an obvious undercling on the lip. Pull through to the rail below the next roof. Move 1m right then up into the break through the top roof. A beefy layback leads up to stance on a small ledge with a bush.
  • Pitch 3. 35 m (19) Climb straight up to the black roof about 10m up. Pull through on flakes at the widest part. Go up past one big ledge to a second, massive ledge below an obvious corner crack system right of a big roof.
  • Pitch 4. 35 m (20) Climb the corner crack system exiting right at the top onto a tiny corner ledge. Tricky pull past a layback. Climb the face right of the obvious, black corner crack heading to the right of a projecting arete. Up the grey corner to the top.

FA: Richard Halsey and Douw Steyn (Jan 2012)

Fallen Iris (19) *****

Right Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

A fine outing with varied climbing, ample exposure, stupendous stances and a little bit of spice.

Start as for Boombox.

  • Pitch 1. 40 m (17) Start at the end of the ledge directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse out over the void. Pull up to the next level and traverse right a further 30m until a vertical crack below the steep corner with the Dark Arête on the left. Pull up to an excellent stance.
  • Pitch 2. 18 m (19) The Dark Arête. Pull up into the steep corner and then move left onto the easy but exposed arête. Climb this to another great stance on the rippled prow.
  • Pitch 3. 35 m (19) From the stance, step up onto the shelf on the right. Traverse 4m right to some narrow vertical slots (small cams/wires). Pull up on great edges to a monster pocket. Step left and head up for a corner. Climb the light brown wall on the right of the corner to a ledge. Traverse right under the roof, then climb straight up to the big ledge. Stance at a right-arching layback crack, in brown rock, just right of some stacked blocks.
  • Pitch 4. 50 m (19) Climb the layback to a delicate flake (with small gear in a thin crack to the right). Move up and left to a ledge, then slightly further left until able to climb the orange ramp. Head for a narrow overlap which is passed on the left. Romp up the headwall and near the top tend slightly right to a large flake and featured face (left of a water runoff feature). Belay from the huge, convenient mushroom.

FA: Richard Halsey and Anton Gietl (Nov 2013)

Lost In Time (25) *****

Right Sector, Main Wall, Tafelberg

Steep climbing through some imposing terrain. Large cams including a #4 Camalot useful. Start 20m right of Snake In The Grass. At this point the large roof on the left ends and another starts on the right about 2m higher up.

  • 1. 20 m (25) From a projecting, good edge at head height, pull up past three rails into a short brown corner. A hard move (past an old peg) gets one to the roof. Traverse left until the roof almost peters out and crank up to the next rail. Move 2m right, up to the next rail, and back left to another old peg. From here head 3m diagonally up and right across a face to a hanging stance left of a bulge.
  • 2. 15 m (21) Climb up and then right to a recess. Continue straight up to a wide rail under a roof. Traverse right until able to pull through the roof at its narrowest point. Stance just above in a vague corner.
  • 3. 25 m (23) Step left and head up through a stepped series of roofs to a hand jam rail below the last roof. Head right over the void until able to pull up onto the face. Continue up to a spacious ledge.
  • 4. 35 m (21) Climb up on good orange rock, just right of a black scrappy corner, to another ledge. Move right until below a corner and featured arete about 10m higher up. Continue straight up to this corner, and then climb to the right on the featured arete until you reach the walk off ledge.

Descent: Stroll rightwards along the walk off ledge until you can scramble down below the Black Ice Wall. Perhaps one day some strong blokes will find a way from the walk off ledge to the summit.

FA: Douw Steyn and Richard Halsey (Jan 2014)


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