Difference between revisions of "Thabaphaswa"

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== Route Description ==
 
== Route Description ==
 
[[Image:Dome s.jpg|Dome s.jpg|Kanniedood crag]]
 
[[Image:Dome s.jpg|Dome s.jpg|Kanniedood crag]]
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'''Kanniedood''' (From left to right)
 
'''Kanniedood''' (From left to right)
  
''My Big Toe'' **** 19, 20m
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'''Easier climbs'''
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The easier climbs at Kanniedood crag can be reached by going left as you reach the bottom of the crag. Go left then right around the corner and up the hill. The climbs are close together on the easy slab on your right as you get to the top of the crag.
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''Just for fun'' *** 11R(1B,C), 12m (25/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Johan Moelich
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Climb straight up to bolt, then right to Loula's chains.
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''Loula'' **** 11(3B,C), 14m (25/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Sjene Smith
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''Surami'' *** 12(3B,C), 14m (25/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Sharon Benade
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''Skoenlapper''  15/18 (6 Bolts + Anchors), 17m (26/03/2016) BB: Thomas Kotlar, FA: Hermien Venter. Route starts at the granite slab, then up the crack, out right and up to the anchors. Use the crack and stay left for 15. Use the face right of the crack for 18.
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''Super Cool Nifty'' -  21 (6 Bolts + Anchors), 17m (26/03/2016) BB: Thomas Kotlar, FA: Thomas Kotlar. Straight up the face of the bulge.
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''Miena se Muis'' -  20 (6 Bolts + Anchors), 17m (26/03/2016) BB: Thomas Kotlar, FA: Thomas Kotlar. Use the crack then over the top to the anchors. (Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)
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'''Front climbs'''
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(On the face that you see as you approach the crag.)
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Take the left path up the slab, go under the trees to get to the next 2 climbs.
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''Triple Town'' *** 17, 27m (11/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Sharon Benade
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(5 meters left of My Big Toe. Starts at the flake under the tree.)
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''My Big Toe'' **** 19, 20m (Brilliant climb)
  
 
''Friday 13th'' *** 20, 24m
 
''Friday 13th'' *** 20, 24m
Line 44: Line 70:
 
Pitch 2: 15, 20m
 
Pitch 2: 15, 20m
  
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"Scorpion" *** 19, 3 pitches (2013)
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Walk to right hand side of crag. The line of bolts following the
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off-width crack is Scorpion. The bolt line to the left of the crack is
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a variation to Scorpion and worth the try. (Variation pitch is a grade 23)
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Pitch 1: 19, 20m 10 bolts. Belay on big ledge
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Pitch 2: 16, 30m 5or6 bolts. Belay in big scoop
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Pitch 3: 10, 35m 2 bolts. Top out(Climb for the view)
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When Abseiling and you're using 60 meter ropes, use the chains you pass as
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you climb pitch 3. The abseil is only 5 meters between the two point but necessary.
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You will be caught short on a 60 meter rope.
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'''New Route 2016'''<br>
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Kanniedood: "A Little Grit" 20 - 1 pitch - 4 bolts
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13. July 2015 - Emilia Schönherr und Paul Grotheer, Lina Schneeweiß, Tilmann Hartmann
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This nice climb starts a few meters to the right of the route "My Big Toe". There are some run outs in this route.
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The route was done by climbing and bolting from the bottom without prior establishing of bolts bias the use of a top rope.
  
 
'''Dome Rock'''
 
'''Dome Rock'''

Latest revision as of 20:29, 2 May 2016

The climbing

Single and multi-pitch sport climbing near Mokopane

Season

Mainly Winter, but also Spring & Autumn

Rock

Granite, lots of small crimps, mostly on angle

Gear

Sport Rack

Food, accommodation and other activities

Contact Deon Richter of Thabaphaswa Mountain Sanctuary, in his own words: "Nguni and PinZ2yl Cattle Breeder / Hen-pecked Husband / Grand Dad / Owner."

Tel: 015 491 4882

Cell: +27 82 389 6631

www.thabaphaswa.co.za

A day visitor fee is applicable if not staying at the sanctuary. There are huts / cottages and camping available. Hiking, mountain biking, 4x4 trails, swimming, foefiesliding, fishing.

Route Description

Kanniedood crag


Kanniedood (From left to right)

Easier climbs

The easier climbs at Kanniedood crag can be reached by going left as you reach the bottom of the crag. Go left then right around the corner and up the hill. The climbs are close together on the easy slab on your right as you get to the top of the crag.

Just for fun *** 11R(1B,C), 12m (25/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Johan Moelich Climb straight up to bolt, then right to Loula's chains.

Loula **** 11(3B,C), 14m (25/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Sjene Smith

Surami *** 12(3B,C), 14m (25/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Sharon Benade

Skoenlapper 15/18 (6 Bolts + Anchors), 17m (26/03/2016) BB: Thomas Kotlar, FA: Hermien Venter. Route starts at the granite slab, then up the crack, out right and up to the anchors. Use the crack and stay left for 15. Use the face right of the crack for 18.

Super Cool Nifty - 21 (6 Bolts + Anchors), 17m (26/03/2016) BB: Thomas Kotlar, FA: Thomas Kotlar. Straight up the face of the bulge.

Miena se Muis - 20 (6 Bolts + Anchors), 17m (26/03/2016) BB: Thomas Kotlar, FA: Thomas Kotlar. Use the crack then over the top to the anchors. (Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)

Front climbs (On the face that you see as you approach the crag.)

Take the left path up the slab, go under the trees to get to the next 2 climbs.

Triple Town *** 17, 27m (11/05/2013)BB: Johan Moelich FA: Sharon Benade (5 meters left of My Big Toe. Starts at the flake under the tree.)

My Big Toe **** 19, 20m (Brilliant climb)

Friday 13th *** 20, 24m

Dead Ant *** 21, 19m

Yoga on the Rocks **** 23, 23m

Boned **** 21, 23m

Tu-lips *** 16, 36m

Pitch 1: 16, 16m

Pitch 2: 15, 20m

"Scorpion" *** 19, 3 pitches (2013)

Walk to right hand side of crag. The line of bolts following the off-width crack is Scorpion. The bolt line to the left of the crack is a variation to Scorpion and worth the try. (Variation pitch is a grade 23)

Pitch 1: 19, 20m 10 bolts. Belay on big ledge

Pitch 2: 16, 30m 5or6 bolts. Belay in big scoop

Pitch 3: 10, 35m 2 bolts. Top out(Climb for the view)

When Abseiling and you're using 60 meter ropes, use the chains you pass as you climb pitch 3. The abseil is only 5 meters between the two point but necessary. You will be caught short on a 60 meter rope.

New Route 2016
Kanniedood: "A Little Grit" 20 - 1 pitch - 4 bolts 13. July 2015 - Emilia Schönherr und Paul Grotheer, Lina Schneeweiß, Tilmann Hartmann This nice climb starts a few meters to the right of the route "My Big Toe". There are some run outs in this route. The route was done by climbing and bolting from the bottom without prior establishing of bolts bias the use of a top rope.

Dome Rock

Whistling in the wind *** 19, 7m


Elephant's Head

Pitch 1: ** 23, 22m Starts to the left of the elephant's trunk. On balance, small holds on a relatively smooth surface. Crux 1/3 of the way up, then straight forward to the top

Pitch 2: ** 19, 23m Start right to avoid loose slab, then left under the boulder, continue left over dassie shit - worst section on this climb

Pitch 3: *** 18, 23m Starts from a small cave through which on can see under the elephant to the other side of the rock face. Route moves over to the left past the elephant's ear.

Pitch 4: *** 17, 22m Route moves directly up to just short of the top.

Pitch 5: ** 15, 10m Short easy finish.