Time Warp Direct 26
Start: Directly above and to the left of the campsite one can see a thin, leftwards tending crack which leads to a grassy ledge below a steep corner. Time Warp Direct climbs this.
P1 24: 20m Climb up easily to the base of the thin crack. Climb some technical moves up and left past pitons to a small break before another thin crack, then climb this thin crack straight up to stance at a grassy ledge.
P2 26: 30m Climb straight up the steep corner for 10m until one reaches the left end of a roof. Reach up and clip a piton, then traverse right a few meters and blast straight through the roof to get established on the face above. Climb directly right and up for about 8m to stance at a small ledge.
Here one can either abseil 50m straight down to the campsite or climb an easy pitch straight up and left to join with Time Warp.
FA: Hilton Davies and Guy Paterson-Jones (Feb 2012)
EITHER walk right to the gulley between Smalblaar ridge and the chesspieces. This involves three short abseils.
OR use the rap route (affectionately dubbed "Down Time"):
BE WARNED - IT IS EASY TO COCK THIS ABSEIL UP AND HAVE A NICE OLD EPIC
Towards the right hand side of the upper amphitheatre is a massive open book. Armageddon Time climbs the headwall to the right of this. The first anchors are on a ledge about 4m below the top, and 25m left of the massive open book.
- Rap 1: 40m. Rap off 2 bolts with equalized mailons. Straight down, past an overhang. Free-hanging for a bit. When you touch rock again place a #0.75 cam in a vertical slot and clip the rope in short. This will get you past the next bulge. The anchors are just beneath the bulge on a blank hanging stance.
- Rap 2: 30m. Rap off two bolts with nice long chains on them. Straight down to a ledge. Completely free-hanging rap. You can just reach the ledge if you lean out. The next anchors are just to the left.
- Rap 3: 60m. Rap off 2 bolts equalized with tat and leaver biners. Bring your own extra tat and biners if you're nervous. Straight down to the jumbo halfway ledge. Normal 60m ropes will just make this abseil to the upper ledge. Scramble down 3m to the lower ledge to find the next anchors.
- Rap 4: !!!63m!!! NORMAL 60M ROPES WILL BE TOO SHORT AND YOU WILL HAVE TO SACRIFICE SOME GEAR. Rap off two bolts. The lower bolt has a single chain which is backed up by a mailon to the upper bolt. The mailon cannot be screwed closed. Back this up if you are nervous. Straight down to a small ledge.
- Rap 5: !!!70m!!! Rap off two bolts equalized with maillons. Be careful how you thread the rope because it will get stuck if you cock it up. Normal 60m ropes will get you to a massive flake with an old piton behind it. You can then rap off this to the ground. The piton can be backed up by a wire if you're nervous, but all the gear is behind the same flake. Hmmmm? If you have 70m ropes you will reach a single bolt, or the ledge just below it.
- Rap 6: 10m. Either rap off the piton, or off the single bolt with a leaver biner, or scrable off to the right from the ledge.