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{{Infobox Area
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=General Info=
        | Latitude = -32.543268
+
        | Longitude = 19.328552
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        | Climbing Type =
+
        | Rock Type =
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        | Season =
+
        | Province = Western Cape
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        | Area =  
+
  
}}
+
Truitjieskraal is a beautiful area in the Cederberg, consisting of 85% sport climbing and 15% trad climbing, although this is predominantly a sport climbing venue. The routes are single pitch of moderate length (+/-30m).<br>
 +
The rock type is coarse Sandstone with a range of grades from easy to difficult on vertical to overhanging rock.<br>
 +
The walk-ins are short and you can always find shade somewhere.
  
= How to get there =
+
== Guide book ==
 +
'''[http://www.climbing.co.za/shop/guide-books/wolfberg-guidebook-wolfberg-cracks-southern-cederberg-a-climbers-guide/ Wolfberg Cracks]''', Tony Lourens, 2008<br>
 +
'''[http://www.climbing.co.za/shop/guide-books/western-cape-rock-guidebook Western Cape Rock]''', Tony Lourens, 2015
  
= Fees & Permits =
+
== Getting there ==
 +
Total journey time is 2½-3½ hour drive North of Cape Town of which 1 hour is a good dirt road.<br>
 +
From Cape Town drive north on the N7. About  after Citrusdal, take the turnoff to Algeria. Stay on the gravel road past Algeria for about 45 min, until you see the turnoff to the right to Krom River.<br>
 +
Follow the road to the Krom Rivier Campsite. Once at Krom Rivier campsite ask the office for directions (and permit) to Truitjieskraal.
  
= Accommodation & Food =
+
== Food & accommodation ==
 +
Camping at Krom Rivier (http://www.cederbergpark.com)<br>
 +
Prices are very good and campsites have electricity.<br>
 +
You need to take your own food for the duration of your trip (the last town is Citrusdal).<br>
 +
Great Restaurant and a Brewery. (http://www.cederbergpark.com)
  
= Attractions & Activities =
+
== Notes ==
 +
No camping is allowed in Truitjieskraal<br>
 +
You need to obtain a permit to climb here. (Wild Card and MCSA members can get it for free)<br>
 +
Permits are available at the Krom River Office (http://www.cederbergpark.com)
  
= Map =
+
== Season ==
 +
Climbing is possible all year round all, though it does get very hot in December/January/February - July/August are very cold (frost like cold) and you will probably see some snow on the higher peaks. Spring and autumn are choice times.<br><br><br>
  
 +
= Climbing Areas =
 +
[[Image:Truitjieskraal map.png|center]]<br><br>
  
 +
=== '''''<big><big>Ken's Block</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
====<big>Sport</big>====
  
 +
*'''Hot Chocolate (26)''' FA: K. Schumann 1996
  
Truitjieskraal is a beautiful area in the Cederberg with Superb quality Sandstone sport routes over a range of grades. +/- 30 Single Pitch Sport Routes. The drive is +/- 2½hours north from Cape Town along the N7 highway (an hour on a dirt road)
+
*'''Hunks on the Ceiling (26)''' FA: K. Schumann 1996
  
== The climbing ==
+
*'''Little Red Riding Helmet (24)''' FA: K. Schumann 1996
Single pitch sport climbing in the Cedarberg area - mostly hard routes on vertical to overhanging rock. Short walk-ins. A nice place to go if you haven't been there yet.  
+
  
== Getting There ==
+
*'''Cork Soaker (22)''' FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
From Cape Town drice north on the N7. About 30 km after Citrusdal, take the turnoff to Algeria. Stay on the gravel road past Algeria for about an hour, until you see the runoff to the right to Krom River. Follow the road to the Krom River Campsite. Camp at Krom River and drive onto Truitjieskraal from there (ask the office for directions)
+
  
== Food & Accommodation ==
+
*'''Sock Tucker (20)''' FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
Camp at Krom Rivier.  You need to take your own food for the duration of your trip (the last town is Citrusdal).  You need to obtain a permit to climb here. (Wild Card and MCSA members can get it for free) You can get the permit from the Krom River Office.
+
  
== Season ==
+
====<big>Trad</big>====
Climbing is possible all year round all, though it does get very hot in December/January/February - July/August are very cold (frost like cold) and you will probably see some snow on the higher peaks. Spring and autumn are choice times.
+
On the back side of the block
 +
*'''Jug Face (10)''' FA: M. Scott 1999
 +
*'''Jiggle (15)''' FA: M. Scott 1999
 +
*'''Juggle (19)''' FA: M. Scott 1999
 +
*'''The Groove (13)''' FA: M. Scott 1999
 +
<br><br>
  
== Areas ==
+
=== '''''<big><big>Red Turret</big></big>''''' ===
[[Image:Truitjieskraal map.png|center]]
+
----
 +
<br>
 +
====<big>Trad</big>====
 +
*'''Rooi Gevaar (13)''' FA: M. Scott 1998
 +
*'''Silly Sermon (19)'''
 +
5m left of ''Yellow River'' there is a large boulder. Stand on a rock on the boulder/jump to gain a jug. Heel hook and crank onto face. Straight up and easily to top.  
  
=== Punks in the Cedarberg Area ===
+
FA: R. Halsey & G. Dondel 12/09/10<br>
 +
*'''Yellow River (14)''' FA: M. Scott 1998
 +
*'''Big Red (11)''' FA: M. Scott 1998
  
From left to right:
+
*'''Brick Rover (18)'''
 +
Between the Red Turret and Ken’s block is an attractive overhanging Arête. Climb up to platform, traverse 1m  R to below two pockets. Tend diagonally left until in line with centre of Arête and gun for the top.<br>Walk off and down gulley to right of route.
  
* '''Radical Dance Party''' 21<br/> FA: Craig "Crute" Bruton <br/> A classic!
+
FA: R. Halsey & G. Dondel 12/09/10<br>
  
* '''Punks in the Cedarberg''' 26<br/> FA: Paul Schlotveldt <br/> A hold might have broken on this route, since it seems several grades harder than 26
+
[[Image:BrickRover.jpg|300px]]
  
* '''Route the Brute''' 25<br/> FA: Craig "Crute" Bruton <br/> This route includes a five move traverse to the left to clip, and then five moves right to get you back to where you were. Nevertheless, it is an awesome line.
+
White: ''Brick Rover''
   
+
<br>
* '''Skunks in the Bin''' 25<br/> FA: Paul Schlotveldt <br/> Climb the roof, then easy ground to the top.
+
  
 +
=== '''''<big><big>Gollum's Alley</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
====<big>Trad</big>====
 +
*'''Gollum's Arête (11)''' FA: M. Scott 2000
 +
*'''Shelob's Lair (13)''' FA: M. Scott 2000
 +
*'''Riddle (14)''' FA: M. Scott 2000
 +
<br><br>
  
* Images below from Mike Scott
+
=== '''''<big><big>Dragon's Cleft</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
====<big>Trad</big>====
 +
*'''Dragon Pillar (12)''' FA: M. Scott 2000
 +
*'''Dragon Crack (19)''' FA: Unknown 2000
 +
*'''Dragon Wall (19)''' [Top Rope]
 +
*'''Dragon Face (17)''' [Top Rope]
 +
*'''Dragon Breath (15)''' FA: M. Scott 2000
 +
*'''Dragoon (15)''' FA: M. Scott 2000
 +
<br>
 +
*'''Pendragon (18)'''
 +
Several meters left of the Dragon is a pillar. Climb up the centre of this and lend slightly left at the top. Scramble down the gulley to descend.
  
[[Image:Punks-area-Edelstein's-lead.jpg]]<br>
+
FA: R. Halsey 18/6/2011
Above - Punks area Edelstein's lead<br>
+
  
[[Image:Punks-block-F1-and-E3-rtes.jpg]]<br>
+
*'''Dragonboat (20)'''
Above - Punks block F1 and E3 routes<br>
+
On the buttress in front of Dragon Cleft. Climb the crack in a vague corner and up the featured face to a roof. Move left past the roof and straight to top. Scramble off back.
  
[[Image:Punks-wall-E3-rte.jpg]]<br>
+
FA: R. Halsey 18/6/2011
Above - Punks wall E3 route
+
  
=== Hueco Punks Area ===
+
*'''Double Dragon (21)'''
 +
Start about 5m right of ''Dragonboat''. Rail in from the right and up a steep crack system. Move slightly left and up the face, finishing at the arched crack at the top. Scramble off back <br>
 +
FA: J. Hajos 18/6/2011<br>
  
 +
[[Image: dragonrd.jpg|550px]]
 +
 +
From the left: ''Pendragon'' (18), ''Dragonboat'' (20) and ''Double Dragon'' (21)
 +
<br><br>
 +
 +
=== '''''<big><big>Punks in the Cederberg Wall</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
====<big>Sport</big>====
 
From left to right:
 
From left to right:
  
* '''Shut Up 'n Play Yer Guitar''' 21 T Lourens<br>Towards cleavage wall and slightly up a gully
+
*'''Chasing the Dragon (19)''' FA: A. von Hase 05/01/2013 B.B: M. Gowans; A. von Hase; C Tooze
* '''Knee Bar Wager''' 17 Amy Whistler
+
* '''Hueco Punks''' 26 Paul Schlotfeldt<br>Fun dyno!
+
* '''Crimping Christmas''' 25 Paul Schlotfeldt<br> Same start as ''Hueco Punks''
+
* '''Knees Up''' 18 J Schlotfeldt
+
* '''Nick Nack''' 17 Patrick McCann
+
* '''Paddy Whack''' 20 Patrick McCann
+
* '''Give a Dog a Bone''' 18 Patrick McCann
+
* '''Skinhead Stomp''' 17 Patrick McCann
+
* '''Unknown#1''' 15 Mike Scott
+
  
=== Mad Cowboy Area ===
+
*'''Sugarman (20)''' FA: C. Tooze 05/01/2013 B.B: M. Gowans; A. von Hase; C Tooze<br>(This route is run-out between bolts two and three.)
  
From left to right:
+
*'''Radical Dance Party (21)''' FA: C. Bruton 1996<br>A classic!
  
* '''Mad Cowboys' Disease''' 31<br/> FA: Todd Skinner<br/> Hard!
+
*'''Punks in the Cederberg (26)''' FA: P. Schlotveldt 1996<br>A hold might have broken on this route, since it seems several grades harder than 26
* '''Mad Moose Disease''' 25<br/> FA: Unknown <br/> This is where the ''deon'' (pronounced with a nasal ending as in ''garçon'') move was invented. A ''deon'' is similiar to a gaston, except it involves dropping your right foot so that you can reach higher with your left hand, and has little to do with reverse laybacking. The ''deon'' was invented by Deon Hugo.
+
  
=== Alzheimer's area routes ===
+
*'''Route the Brute (25)''' C. Bruton 1996<br>This route includes a five move traverse to the left to clip, and then five moves right to get you back to where you were. Nevertheless, it is an awesome line.
  
 +
*'''Skunks in the Bin (25)''' FA: P. Schlotveldt 1996<br>Climb the roof, then easy ground to the top.
  
 +
====<big>Trad</big>====
 +
*'''Trance Dance (12)''' FA: M. Scott 1998
 +
*'''The Crack (22)''' FA: C. Edelstein 2002
 +
*'''Monks in Sin (14)''' FA: M. Scott 1998
 +
*'''Cappuccino Rules (13)''' FA: M. Scott 1998
 +
<br>
 +
Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.
 +
[[Image:Punks-area-Edelstein's-lead.jpg|frame|50px|left|The Crack (22) FA:C. Edelstein]][[Image:Punks-block-F1-and-E3-rtes.jpg|frame|right|Left: Monks in Sin (14) FA: M. Scott; Right: Cappuccino Rules (13) FA: M. Scott]]<br>
 +
[[Image:Punks-wall-E3-rte.jpg|frame|none| Trance Dance (12) FA: M. Scott]]
 +
<br><br>
  
[[Image:Alzheimer's-C-rte-on-rib.jpg]]
+
=== '''''<big><big>Cave Buttress</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
*'''The Cave (16)''' FA: T. Versfeld, C. Edelstein 2003
 
<br><br>
 
<br><br>
Alzheimer's C route on rib
 
<br><br>
 
[[Image:Alzheimer's-E-chimney-near-.jpg]]<br>
 
Alzheimer's E chimney near  Jono's 24
 
<br><br>
 
[[Image:Alzheimer's-F1-recess.jpg]]<br>
 
Alzheimer's F1 recess
 
<br><br>
 
[[Image:Alzheimer's-reces-rte_01.jpg]]<br>
 
Alzheimer's recess route
 
<br><br>
 
[[Image:Alzheimer's-rib-rte.jpg]]<br>
 
Alzheimer's rib route
 
<br><br>
 
All photos by Mike Scott
 
  
=== Back gully routes ===
+
=== '''''<big><big>Twin Columns</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
*'''Twin Column (14)''' FA: M. Scott 2001
 +
<br>
 +
 
 +
*'''Twin Peaks (21)'''
 +
On the front of the buttress climb a series of vertical cracks (some slightly suspect rock near the top of this section). Continue up to the bulge, and climb up the steep crack splitting the bulge. Continue easily to the top.
 +
 +
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)
 +
 
 +
*'''Two for One (17)'''
 +
Start about 3m right of ''Twin Peaks''. Climb a short a ramp to a shallow corner, Continue up and right to an excellent finger crack in a vague corner. Head diagonally right and then up the face above (slightly run out) and finish up the steep top section.
 +
 
 +
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)
 +
 
 +
*'''Kissing Towers (19)'''
 +
 
 +
Head straight up the red face to the left of the cleft between the columns. There is enough gear but be careful. After a series of rails, continue up to the right hand side of the column (slightly run out). Finish up the steep, blunt arête and pull over the top where the columns kiss each other.
 +
 
 +
FA: R. Halsey (Dec 2017)
 +
 
 +
*'''Twins Fears (18)'''
 +
Great feature that basically climbs the centre of the right column. However,  large sections of the narrow roof near the top and disconcertingly disconnected from the column. If you do climb this hide your belayer in the little cave between the columns so they are out of the fall zone, climb gently, and think light thoughts.
 +
 
 +
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)
 +
 
 +
[[file:twin.jpg|450px]]
  
=== Cave area routes ===
+
Left to Right: ''Twin Peaks'', ''Two for One'', ''Kissing Towers'', ''Twin Fears''. Abseil point at top of ''Two for One'' (as at Dec 2017)
  
=== Dragon wall routes ===
+
=== '''''<big><big>The Arch</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 
<br>
 
<br>
* ''Pendragon'' 18 (N)
+
*'''Tripping Through her Wire (24)''' FA: C. Martinengo 2004
 +
<br><br>
  
Several meters left of the Dragon is a pillar. Climb up the centre of this and lend slightly left at the top. Scramble down the gulley to descend
+
=== '''''<big><big>Gateway Prow</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 
<br>
 
<br>
+
*'''Truitjies Rib (14)''' FA: M. Scott 1999
FA: R. Halsey 18/6/2011
+
<br><br>
  
 +
=== '''''<big><big>Tre Putane</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
*'''Lilly Slapped Silly (10)''' FA: M. Scott 2001
 +
*'''Donald Where's Your Troosers (16)''' FA: M. Scott 2001
 +
*'''Suzy Q (13)''' FA: M. Scott 2001
 +
<br>
  
* ''Dragonboat'' 20 (N)
+
*'''Average Man (20)'''
 +
Pull over the initial bulge, then step left and up the blunt arête. Step back right to series of vertical cracks starting at a small tree growing in the cubby hole. Great climbing up the cracks to the top.
  
On the buttress infront of Dragon Cleft. Climb the crack in a vague corner and up the featured face to a roof. Move left past the roof and straight to top. Scramble off back.<br>
+
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)
  
FA: R. Halsey 18/06/2011
+
*'''Everyday Hero (15)'''
 +
Step up onto a platform below a smooth white, blank section. Pull up into a series of short vertical cracks that tend up and left.  
  
 +
FA: R. Halsey (Dec 2017)
  
* ''Double Dragon'' 21 (N)
+
[[file:aveman.jpg|350px]]
Start about 5m right of ''Dragonboat''. Rail in from the right and up a steep crack system. Move slightly left and up the face, finishing at the arched crack at the top. Scramble off back <br>
+
  
FA: J. Hajos 18/06/2011
+
Left to Right: Average Man, Everyday Hero. Abseil point between these two routes (as at Dec 2017)
  
 +
=== '''''<big><big>Gift Buttress</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
*'''The Gift (11)''' FA: M. Scott 2002
 +
*'''The Ribbon (14)''' FA: M. Scott 2002
 +
<br><br>
  
[[Image: dragonrd.jpg|550px]]<br>
+
=== '''''<big><big>Cleavage Wall</big></big>''''' ===
From the left: ''Pendragon'' (18), ''Dragonboat'' (20) and ''Double Dragon'' (21)<br>
+
----
 +
<br>
 +
* '''Schlot Machine (24)''' FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
 +
* '''The Abyss (22)''' FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
 +
* '''Shut Up 'n Play Yer Guitar (22)''' FA: T. Lourens 2011<br> Slightly up a gully, right of Cleavage Wall
  
=== Ken's block routes ===
+
<br><br>
 +
=== '''''<big><big>Hueco Punks Area</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
====<big>Sport</big>====
 +
From left to right:
  
 +
* '''Nice Enough (15)''' FA: S. Lundgren 1996
 +
* '''Knee Bar Wager (17)''' FA: Amy Whistler 1996
 +
* '''Hueco Punks (26)''' FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996<br>Fun dyno!
 +
* '''Crimping Christmas (25)''' FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996<br> Same start as ''Hueco Punks''
 +
* '''Knees Up (18)''' FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996
 +
* '''Nick Nack (17)''' FA: P. McCann 1996
 +
* '''Paddy Whack (20)''' FA: P. McCann 1996
 +
* '''Give the Dog a Bone (18)''' FA: P. McCann 1996
 +
* '''Skinhead Stomp (17)''' FA: P. McCann 1996
 +
* '''Way to Go (15)''' FA: M. Scott 1996
 +
<br>
 +
====<big>Trad</big>====
 +
Right of sport routes
 +
* '''Macarena (12)''' FA: M. Scott 2002
 +
* '''Ketchup (8)''' FA: M. Scott 2002
 +
<br><br>
  
=== Red Turret ===
+
=== '''''<big><big>Give Away Wall</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
====<big>Sport</big>====
 +
From left to right:
  
 +
*'''Flint Hard (22)''' FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
 +
*'''Flint Soft (22)''' FA: M. Roberts 1996
 +
*'''Old Codgers Ego Boost (23/24)''' FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
 +
*'''The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe (28)''' FA: C. Martinengo 2006
 +
*'''The Passion (26)''' FA: J. Samson 1996
 +
*'''The Golden Handshake (34)''' FA: C. Martinengo 2006
 +
*'''Million Dollar Giveaway (29)''' FA: A. Cameron-Duff 1996
 +
*'''Weasels Ripped my Flesh (18/19)''' FA: T. Lourens Nov. 2014
 
<br>
 
<br>
* ''Silly Sermon'' 19 (N)
 
  
R. Halsey & G. Dondel 12/09/10
+
====<big>Trad</big>====
 +
*'''Ignition (16)''' FA: M. Scott 1999
 +
*'''Jam Crack (24)''' FA: H. Zak 2002
  
5m L of ''Yellow River'' there is a large boulder. Stand on a rock on the boulder/jump to gain a jug. Heel hook and crank onto face. Straight up and easily to top
+
<br><br>
 +
 
 +
=== '''''<big><big>Rattler Buttress</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
====<big>Sport</big>====
 +
From left to right:
 +
*'''Lang Arm (23)''' FA: A. McCann 2006
 +
*'''To Hot to Ignore (26)''' FA: J. Terblanche 2006
 +
*'''Oil Spikes (25)''' FA: J. Samson 2006
 +
*'''Forked Tongue (23)''' FA: P. McCann 2006
 +
*'''Mad Moose Disease (25)''' FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
 +
*'''Mad Cowboys Disease (31)''' FA: T. Skinner 1996
 
<br>
 
<br>
  
 +
====<big>Trad</big>====
 +
*'''Micky Mouse Rib (10)''' FA: M. Scott 2002
 +
*'''Rattle my Chops (15)''' FA: M. Scott 1998
 +
<br><br>
  
* ''Brick Rover'' 18 (N)
+
=== '''''<big><big>Parkinson's Wall</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
*'''Shake(22)''' [Top Rope]
 +
*'''Rattle (16)''' FA: M. Scott 1999
 +
*'''Roll(13)''' FA: M. Scott 1999
 +
<br><br>
  
R. Halsey & G. Dondel 12/09/10
+
=== '''''<big><big>Alzheimer's Area</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
====<big>Sport</big>====
 +
From left to right:
 +
*'''Alzheimer's (21)''' FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
 +
*'''Schizophrenia (22)''' FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
 +
*'''Unforgettable (22)''' FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
 +
*'''Rattlesnake Arête (22/23)''' FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996
 +
<br>
  
Between the Red Turret and Ken’s block is an attractive overhanging arete. Climb up to platform, traverse 1m  R to below two pockets. Tend diagonally left until in line with centre of arete and gun for the top.
+
====<big>Trad</big>====
Walk off and down gulley to R of route.  
+
Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.<br>
 +
[[Image:Alzheimer's-F1-recess.jpg|frame|left|What? (13) FA: M. Scott]][[Image:Alzheimer's-reces-rte_01.jpg|frame|none|What? (13) FA: M. Scott]]
 +
[[Image:Alzheimer's-C-rte-on-rib.jpg|frame|none|Alzheimer's C route on rib; Photo by Mike Scott]]
 +
<br><br>
  
 +
=== '''''<big><big>Rattlesnake Arête</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
====<big>Sport</big>====
 +
*'''Rattlesnake Arête (22/23)''' FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996
 +
<br>
  
[[Image:BrickRover.jpg|400px]]<br>
+
====<big>Trad</big>====
Brick Rover 18<br>
+
*'''Where? (11)''' FA: M. Scott 1999
 +
<br>
 +
Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.<br>
 +
[[Image:Alzheimer's-E-chimney-near-.jpg|frame|none|Where? (11) FA: M. Scott]]
 +
<br><br>
  
 +
=== '''''<big><big>Snake Charmer Area</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
====<big>Sport</big>====
 +
From left to right:
  
 +
*'''The Snake Charmer (27)''' FA: T. Skinner 1996
 +
*'''King Cobra (24)''' FA: T. Skinner 1996
 +
*'''Pass the Ham (27)''' FA: J. Samson 1996
 +
*'''Get Shorty (23)''' FA: J. Samson 1996
 +
*'''Babe (22)''' FA: J. Samson 1996
 +
<br>
  
 +
====<big>Trad</big>====
 +
*'''Slither Me Timbers (13)''' FA: M. Scott 1996
 +
[[Image:Snake-Charmer-E3-rte.jpg|frame|none|Slither Me Timbers (13) FA: M. Scott; Photo: M. Scott]]
 +
<br><br>
  
=== Millions gully routes ===
+
=== '''''<big><big>Can Can Alley</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
Patrick McCann and Mike Scott started climbing in this area in 2002 and over the years opened a number of trad lines. Malcolm Gowan's then put up the first sport route in 2011.
  
=== Parkinson's wall routes ===
+
This area lies in a hidden gully parallel to the main gully but closer to the Snake Charmer area.
 +
From the central parking, follow a well marked path that runs parallel to the road and keeping some smaller crags on your left. follow the cairns right, up and onto some rock slabs. Scramble up and over boulders to access the hidden gully. The routes are on the left wall
 +
--[[User:Xenomorph|Xenomorph]] ([[User talk:Xenomorph|talk]]) 15:15, 18 April 2017 (SAST)
 +
====<big>Sport</big>====
 +
From left to right
 +
<br>
 +
*'''Freechild (17)''' FA: J. Gordon Dec 2016
 +
*'''Fynhoud (19)''' FA: A. von Hase, M. Gowans Jan 2015
 +
*'''Dust Devil (24)''' FA: M. Gowans Jan 2015
 +
*'''Wicked (18)''' FA: J. Gordon Dec 2016
 +
*'''Dynosmite (19)''' FA: Cormac Tooze 03-09-2011
 +
*'''Skeletium Skank (23)''' FA: Malcolm Gowans 03-09-2011
 +
*'''Chasing my Bokkie (16)''' FA: Malcolm Gowans 21-12-2013.
 +
*'''Spring Haasie Spring (14)''' FA: Amrei von Hase 21-12-2013. Bolted by M Gowans & A von Hase
 +
*'''Luna Llena (16)''' FA: Javier Gutierrez. 07-09-2014. Bolted by Javier Gutierrez & Malcolm Gowans
 +
*'''Lucky Strike (21)''' A: Malcolm Gowans & Amrei von Hase
 +
*'''Moulin Rouge {left start} (15)''' FA: Patrick and Josie McCann Dec 2014
 +
*'''Moulin Rouge (18)''' FA: Patrick and Josie McCann Dec 2014
 +
*'''Chorus Line (17)''' FA: Mike Scott Jan 2015 Bolted by Patrick McCann
 +
*'''Burlesque (19)''' FA: Patrick McCann Apr 2015
 +
*'''Cedar Brew (19)''' FA: Patrick and Adele McCann November 2015
 +
*'''Cedar Stout (20)''' FA: Patrick and Adele McCann May 2015
 +
*'''Cedar Weiss (17)''' FA: Patrick and Adele McCann Dec 2017
 +
*'''Cedar Blonde (17)''' FA: Patrick and Adele McCann May 2015
 +
[[File:Hunting_Grounds.JPG|frame|none|Photographer-Amrei Von Hase]]
 +
<br>
  
=== Patrick's wall routes ===
+
====<big>Trad</big>====
 +
From left to right
  
=== Rattler area routes ===
+
[[File:CanCan Alley Trad Lines - Topo.jpg]]
  
=== Red Buttress area routes ===
+
*'''A:''' '''ChaCha (16)''' FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2002): Climb the obvious diagonal crack on first buttress.
 +
*'''B:''' '''Tap Dance (12)''' FA: Patrick McCann, Mike Scott and Adele McCann  (2002): Well protected climb through lay back at 1/3rd height and then steep jugs to top.
 +
*'''C:''' '''CanCan Arête (13)''' FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann  (2004):
 +
*'''D:''' '''CanCan Diagonal (12)''' FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2004)
 +
*'''E:''' '''CanCan Central (14)''' FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann  (2010)
 +
*'''F:''' '''Grey Arête (12)''' FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2010)
 +
*'''G:''' '''Candlewood (16)''' FA: Patrick and Adele McCann (2014) – Start at tree as for alternate start to Moulin Rouge, climb up past cauliflower feature, to vertical crack at 2/3rd height (crux) and then jugs to top. A nice, well protected line - keep your large nut (BD size 13) for the vertical crack. (now bolted)
  
=== Skinhead area routes ===
+
*'''Hot Tango (15)'''
 +
Start about 5m right of ''CanCan Diagonal'', at the top of a pile of boulders. Climb just to the left of a fragile series of side pulls. Step right to a dark brown grove and follow that to a slightly steep section with good holds.  Then continue straight to the top of the crag.
  
=== The 3 Pots routes ===
+
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)
  
=== The Twin Columns routes ===
+
*'''Summer Salsa  (15)'''
 +
Start about 5m right of ''Hot Tango''. Climb up to a brown recess and then straight up the wall.
  
=== Top parking area routes ===
+
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)
  
<br>
+
[[file:cancan.jpg|450px]]
* ''Auburn Strawberries'' 14 (N)
+
R. Halsey & B. Excell 11/09/2010
+
  
From the Babe Area carpark, walk past the Bushman wall on the R for a few mins to te buttress. Climb a central line through series of rails.
+
Left to right: Hot Tango, Summer Salsa. There are now chains for a sport route about ¾ the way up between these two routes that could be used for descent.  
Rap down gulley on L to avoid nasty plants on the walk off back and around <br>
+
  
[[Image:AuburnStrawberries.jpg|400px]]<br>
+
*'''Camel Man (16)'''
Auburn Strawberries 14 <br>
+
Start about 2m right of ''Moulin Rouge'' and climb a direct line till the small ledge at about 2/3rd height, then head diagonally right up the final 5m.
  
 +
FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett (Dec 2017)
  
=== Truitjies Waypoints GPS pictures ===
+
*'''Striptease (16)'''
 +
Climbs a direct line up the wall about 2.5m right of Burlesque. Take care with gear at the start. 
  
=== Giveaway Wall ===
+
FA: R. Halsey (Dec 2017)
  
From left to right:
 
  
*'''Flint Hard''' 22
+
[[File:Lucky Strike and Chorus Line Walls.jpg]]
*'''Flint Soft''' 22
+
*'''Old Codger's Ego-Boost''' 24 FA: Jason Temple-Forbes
+
*'''The Passion''' 26 FA: Jeremy Samson
+
*'''The Line, the Witch, and the Wardrobe''' 28
+
*'''Golden Handshake''' 34, FA: Clinton Martinengo
+
*'''Million Dollar Giveaway''' 29
+
  
===Snake Charmer Area===
+
[[File:Lucky Strike Wall.jpg]]
 +
<br><br>
 +
=== '''''<big><big>Sarie Marais Gulley</big></big>''''' ===
  
From left to right:
 
  
*'''The Snake Charmer''' 27, FA: Todd Skinner
+
*'''Balancing Act (18)'''
*'''King Cobra''' 24, FA: Todd Skinner
+
In the middle of left hand wall (facing towards Can Can area) is a finger crack. Follow this to the ledge, then step right and climb the short steep face above (this is actual a large block that appears to be balancing on the top of the gulley, so user discretion is advised).
*'''Pass the Ham''' 27, FA: Jeremy Samson
+
*'''Get Shorty''' 23, FA: Jeremy Samson
+
*'''Babe''' 21, FA: Jeremy Samson
+
  
 +
FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett
  
[[Image:Snake-Charmer-E3-rte.jpg]]<br>
 
Snake Charmer E3 route<br>
 
Photo by Mike Scott
 
  
===Hunting Grounds Area===
+
*'''Medunsa (18)'''
 +
To the right of ''Balancing Act'' is a broken hand crack, and right of that is a separate face. Climb the middle of this face to the top. Some tricky gear in places, and some slightly fragile rock.
  
From left to right:
+
FA: R. Halsey
  
*'''DynoSmite''' 19/20, FA: Cormac Tooze 03-09-2011
+
*'''Tunnel Vision (15)'''
*'''Sceletium Skank''' 21, FA: Malcolm Gowans 03-09-2011
+
Really good and steep for the grade. On the wall opposite ''Balancing Act'', is a dark brown recess with a crack line running up out of it. Climb up to the recess and straight up the steep wall above.
  
[[File:Hunting_Grounds.JPG]]
+
FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters
Topo;
+
Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
+
  
== Photos ==
+
[[file:smg.jpg|650px]]
  
[[Image:HuecoDyno.jpg|center|frame|The dyno on Hueco Punks]]
 
  
[[Image:KfMadMoose.jpg|center|frame|Mad Moose Disease 25]]
+
Left to Right: ''Balancing Act, Medunsa, Cuddlefish''
  
[[Image:KfKrom.jpg|center|frame|King Cobra 24]]
+
=== '''''<big><big>Kiddies Wall</big></big>''''' ===
  
[[File:DynoSmite_FA-1.JPG]]
+
Small but aesthetic block between Sarie Marais Gully and Can Can Area
Cormac Tooze FA DynoSmite-1;
+
Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
+
  
[[File:DynoSmite_FA-2.JPG]]
+
*'''Cuddle Fish (13)'''
Cormac Tooze FA DynoSmite-2;
+
Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
+
  
[[File:Sceletium_Skank_FA-1.JPG]]
+
Take a central line up the short, dark red face.
Malcolm Gowans FA Sceletium Skank-1;
+
Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
+
  
[[File:Sceletium_Skank_FA-2.JPG]]
+
R.Halsey & F. Walters
Malcolm Gowans FA Sceletium Skank-2;
+
Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
+
  
 +
=== '''''<big><big>Bushman Wall</big></big>''''' ===
 +
----
 +
<br>
 +
*'''Boesman (12)''' FA: M. Scott 2000
 +
*'''Lena (12)''' FA: M. Scott 2000
 +
*'''Rockart (13)''' FA: M. Scott 2000
 +
*'''Poison Arrow (13)''' FA: M. Scott 2000
 +
*'''Water Skin (13)''' FA: M. Scott 2000
 +
*'''Auburn Strawberries' (14)''' FA: R. Halsey & B. Excell 11/09/2010<br>From the Babe Area car park, walk past the Bushman wall on the right for a few mins to the buttress.  Climb a central line through series of rails. Rap down gulley on left to avoid nasty plants on the walk off back and around.<br>
  
 +
[[Image:AuburnStrawberries.jpg|400px|]]<br>
 +
Auburn Strawberries 14
 +
<br><br>
 +
 +
=Photos=
 +
<br><br>
 +
[[Image:HuecoDyno.jpg|frame|left|The dyno on Hueco Punks]]
 +
[[Image:KfMadMoose.jpg|frame|none|Mad Moose Disease 25]]
 +
[[Image:KfKrom.jpg|none|frame|none|King Cobra 24]]
 +
[[File:DynoSmite_FA-1.JPG|thumb|400px|left|Cormac Tooze FA DynoSmite-1;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase]]
 +
[[File:DynoSmite_FA-2.JPG|thumb|400px|none|Cormac Tooze FA DynoSmite-1;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase]]
 +
[[File:Sceletium_Skank_FA-1.JPG|thumb|400px|left|Malcolm Gowans FA Sceletium Skank-1;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase]]
 +
[[File:Sceletium_Skank_FA-2.JPG|thumb|400px|none|Malcolm Gowans FA Sceletium Skank-2;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase]]
 +
<br>
  
 
>> Back to [[Cederberg]] page
 
>> Back to [[Cederberg]] page

Latest revision as of 16:55, 16 January 2018

General Info

Truitjieskraal is a beautiful area in the Cederberg, consisting of 85% sport climbing and 15% trad climbing, although this is predominantly a sport climbing venue. The routes are single pitch of moderate length (+/-30m).
The rock type is coarse Sandstone with a range of grades from easy to difficult on vertical to overhanging rock.
The walk-ins are short and you can always find shade somewhere.

Guide book

Wolfberg Cracks, Tony Lourens, 2008
Western Cape Rock, Tony Lourens, 2015

Getting there

Total journey time is 2½-3½ hour drive North of Cape Town of which 1 hour is a good dirt road.
From Cape Town drive north on the N7. About after Citrusdal, take the turnoff to Algeria. Stay on the gravel road past Algeria for about 45 min, until you see the turnoff to the right to Krom River.
Follow the road to the Krom Rivier Campsite. Once at Krom Rivier campsite ask the office for directions (and permit) to Truitjieskraal.

Food & accommodation

Camping at Krom Rivier (http://www.cederbergpark.com)
Prices are very good and campsites have electricity.
You need to take your own food for the duration of your trip (the last town is Citrusdal).
Great Restaurant and a Brewery. (http://www.cederbergpark.com)

Notes

No camping is allowed in Truitjieskraal
You need to obtain a permit to climb here. (Wild Card and MCSA members can get it for free)
Permits are available at the Krom River Office (http://www.cederbergpark.com)

Season

Climbing is possible all year round all, though it does get very hot in December/January/February - July/August are very cold (frost like cold) and you will probably see some snow on the higher peaks. Spring and autumn are choice times.


Climbing Areas

Truitjieskraal map.png


Ken's Block



Sport

  • Hot Chocolate (26) FA: K. Schumann 1996
  • Hunks on the Ceiling (26) FA: K. Schumann 1996
  • Little Red Riding Helmet (24) FA: K. Schumann 1996
  • Cork Soaker (22) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
  • Sock Tucker (20) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996

Trad

On the back side of the block

  • Jug Face (10) FA: M. Scott 1999
  • Jiggle (15) FA: M. Scott 1999
  • Juggle (19) FA: M. Scott 1999
  • The Groove (13) FA: M. Scott 1999



Red Turret



Trad

  • Rooi Gevaar (13) FA: M. Scott 1998
  • Silly Sermon (19)

5m left of Yellow River there is a large boulder. Stand on a rock on the boulder/jump to gain a jug. Heel hook and crank onto face. Straight up and easily to top.

FA: R. Halsey & G. Dondel 12/09/10

  • Yellow River (14) FA: M. Scott 1998
  • Big Red (11) FA: M. Scott 1998
  • Brick Rover (18)

Between the Red Turret and Ken’s block is an attractive overhanging Arête. Climb up to platform, traverse 1m R to below two pockets. Tend diagonally left until in line with centre of Arête and gun for the top.
Walk off and down gulley to right of route.

FA: R. Halsey & G. Dondel 12/09/10

BrickRover.jpg

White: Brick Rover

Gollum's Alley



Trad

  • Gollum's Arête (11) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Shelob's Lair (13) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Riddle (14) FA: M. Scott 2000



Dragon's Cleft



Trad

  • Dragon Pillar (12) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Dragon Crack (19) FA: Unknown 2000
  • Dragon Wall (19) [Top Rope]
  • Dragon Face (17) [Top Rope]
  • Dragon Breath (15) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Dragoon (15) FA: M. Scott 2000


  • Pendragon (18)

Several meters left of the Dragon is a pillar. Climb up the centre of this and lend slightly left at the top. Scramble down the gulley to descend.

FA: R. Halsey 18/6/2011

  • Dragonboat (20)

On the buttress in front of Dragon Cleft. Climb the crack in a vague corner and up the featured face to a roof. Move left past the roof and straight to top. Scramble off back.

FA: R. Halsey 18/6/2011

  • Double Dragon (21)

Start about 5m right of Dragonboat. Rail in from the right and up a steep crack system. Move slightly left and up the face, finishing at the arched crack at the top. Scramble off back
FA: J. Hajos 18/6/2011

Dragonrd.jpg

From the left: Pendragon (18), Dragonboat (20) and Double Dragon (21)

Punks in the Cederberg Wall



Sport

From left to right:

  • Chasing the Dragon (19) FA: A. von Hase 05/01/2013 B.B: M. Gowans; A. von Hase; C Tooze
  • Sugarman (20) FA: C. Tooze 05/01/2013 B.B: M. Gowans; A. von Hase; C Tooze
    (This route is run-out between bolts two and three.)
  • Radical Dance Party (21) FA: C. Bruton 1996
    A classic!
  • Punks in the Cederberg (26) FA: P. Schlotveldt 1996
    A hold might have broken on this route, since it seems several grades harder than 26
  • Route the Brute (25) C. Bruton 1996
    This route includes a five move traverse to the left to clip, and then five moves right to get you back to where you were. Nevertheless, it is an awesome line.
  • Skunks in the Bin (25) FA: P. Schlotveldt 1996
    Climb the roof, then easy ground to the top.

Trad

  • Trance Dance (12) FA: M. Scott 1998
  • The Crack (22) FA: C. Edelstein 2002
  • Monks in Sin (14) FA: M. Scott 1998
  • Cappuccino Rules (13) FA: M. Scott 1998


Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.

The Crack (22) FA:C. Edelstein
Left: Monks in Sin (14) FA: M. Scott; Right: Cappuccino Rules (13) FA: M. Scott

Trance Dance (12) FA: M. Scott



Cave Buttress



  • The Cave (16) FA: T. Versfeld, C. Edelstein 2003



Twin Columns



  • Twin Column (14) FA: M. Scott 2001


  • Twin Peaks (21)

On the front of the buttress climb a series of vertical cracks (some slightly suspect rock near the top of this section). Continue up to the bulge, and climb up the steep crack splitting the bulge. Continue easily to the top.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)

  • Two for One (17)

Start about 3m right of Twin Peaks. Climb a short a ramp to a shallow corner, Continue up and right to an excellent finger crack in a vague corner. Head diagonally right and then up the face above (slightly run out) and finish up the steep top section.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)

  • Kissing Towers (19)

Head straight up the red face to the left of the cleft between the columns. There is enough gear but be careful. After a series of rails, continue up to the right hand side of the column (slightly run out). Finish up the steep, blunt arête and pull over the top where the columns kiss each other.

FA: R. Halsey (Dec 2017)

  • Twins Fears (18)

Great feature that basically climbs the centre of the right column. However, large sections of the narrow roof near the top and disconcertingly disconnected from the column. If you do climb this hide your belayer in the little cave between the columns so they are out of the fall zone, climb gently, and think light thoughts.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)

Twin.jpg

Left to Right: Twin Peaks, Two for One, Kissing Towers, Twin Fears. Abseil point at top of Two for One (as at Dec 2017)

The Arch



  • Tripping Through her Wire (24) FA: C. Martinengo 2004



Gateway Prow



  • Truitjies Rib (14) FA: M. Scott 1999



Tre Putane



  • Lilly Slapped Silly (10) FA: M. Scott 2001
  • Donald Where's Your Troosers (16) FA: M. Scott 2001
  • Suzy Q (13) FA: M. Scott 2001


  • Average Man (20)

Pull over the initial bulge, then step left and up the blunt arête. Step back right to series of vertical cracks starting at a small tree growing in the cubby hole. Great climbing up the cracks to the top.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)

  • Everyday Hero (15)

Step up onto a platform below a smooth white, blank section. Pull up into a series of short vertical cracks that tend up and left.

FA: R. Halsey (Dec 2017)

Aveman.jpg

Left to Right: Average Man, Everyday Hero. Abseil point between these two routes (as at Dec 2017)

Gift Buttress



  • The Gift (11) FA: M. Scott 2002
  • The Ribbon (14) FA: M. Scott 2002



Cleavage Wall



  • Schlot Machine (24) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • The Abyss (22) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
  • Shut Up 'n Play Yer Guitar (22) FA: T. Lourens 2011
    Slightly up a gully, right of Cleavage Wall



Hueco Punks Area



Sport

From left to right:

  • Nice Enough (15) FA: S. Lundgren 1996
  • Knee Bar Wager (17) FA: Amy Whistler 1996
  • Hueco Punks (26) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
    Fun dyno!
  • Crimping Christmas (25) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
    Same start as Hueco Punks
  • Knees Up (18) FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Nick Nack (17) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Paddy Whack (20) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Give the Dog a Bone (18) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Skinhead Stomp (17) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Way to Go (15) FA: M. Scott 1996


Trad

Right of sport routes

  • Macarena (12) FA: M. Scott 2002
  • Ketchup (8) FA: M. Scott 2002



Give Away Wall



Sport

From left to right:

  • Flint Hard (22) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Flint Soft (22) FA: M. Roberts 1996
  • Old Codgers Ego Boost (23/24) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
  • The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe (28) FA: C. Martinengo 2006
  • The Passion (26) FA: J. Samson 1996
  • The Golden Handshake (34) FA: C. Martinengo 2006
  • Million Dollar Giveaway (29) FA: A. Cameron-Duff 1996
  • Weasels Ripped my Flesh (18/19) FA: T. Lourens Nov. 2014


Trad

  • Ignition (16) FA: M. Scott 1999
  • Jam Crack (24) FA: H. Zak 2002



Rattler Buttress



Sport

From left to right:

  • Lang Arm (23) FA: A. McCann 2006
  • To Hot to Ignore (26) FA: J. Terblanche 2006
  • Oil Spikes (25) FA: J. Samson 2006
  • Forked Tongue (23) FA: P. McCann 2006
  • Mad Moose Disease (25) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Mad Cowboys Disease (31) FA: T. Skinner 1996


Trad

  • Micky Mouse Rib (10) FA: M. Scott 2002
  • Rattle my Chops (15) FA: M. Scott 1998



Parkinson's Wall



  • Shake(22) [Top Rope]
  • Rattle (16) FA: M. Scott 1999
  • Roll(13) FA: M. Scott 1999



Alzheimer's Area



Sport

From left to right:

  • Alzheimer's (21) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Schizophrenia (22) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Unforgettable (22) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Rattlesnake Arête (22/23) FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996


Trad

Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.

What? (13) FA: M. Scott
What? (13) FA: M. Scott
Alzheimer's C route on rib; Photo by Mike Scott



Rattlesnake Arête



Sport

  • Rattlesnake Arête (22/23) FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996


Trad

  • Where? (11) FA: M. Scott 1999


Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.

Where? (11) FA: M. Scott



Snake Charmer Area



Sport

From left to right:

  • The Snake Charmer (27) FA: T. Skinner 1996
  • King Cobra (24) FA: T. Skinner 1996
  • Pass the Ham (27) FA: J. Samson 1996
  • Get Shorty (23) FA: J. Samson 1996
  • Babe (22) FA: J. Samson 1996


Trad

  • Slither Me Timbers (13) FA: M. Scott 1996
Slither Me Timbers (13) FA: M. Scott; Photo: M. Scott



Can Can Alley



Patrick McCann and Mike Scott started climbing in this area in 2002 and over the years opened a number of trad lines. Malcolm Gowan's then put up the first sport route in 2011.

This area lies in a hidden gully parallel to the main gully but closer to the Snake Charmer area. From the central parking, follow a well marked path that runs parallel to the road and keeping some smaller crags on your left. follow the cairns right, up and onto some rock slabs. Scramble up and over boulders to access the hidden gully. The routes are on the left wall --Xenomorph (talk) 15:15, 18 April 2017 (SAST)

Sport

From left to right

  • Freechild (17) FA: J. Gordon Dec 2016
  • Fynhoud (19) FA: A. von Hase, M. Gowans Jan 2015
  • Dust Devil (24) FA: M. Gowans Jan 2015
  • Wicked (18) FA: J. Gordon Dec 2016
  • Dynosmite (19) FA: Cormac Tooze 03-09-2011
  • Skeletium Skank (23) FA: Malcolm Gowans 03-09-2011
  • Chasing my Bokkie (16) FA: Malcolm Gowans 21-12-2013.
  • Spring Haasie Spring (14) FA: Amrei von Hase 21-12-2013. Bolted by M Gowans & A von Hase
  • Luna Llena (16) FA: Javier Gutierrez. 07-09-2014. Bolted by Javier Gutierrez & Malcolm Gowans
  • Lucky Strike (21) A: Malcolm Gowans & Amrei von Hase
  • Moulin Rouge {left start} (15) FA: Patrick and Josie McCann Dec 2014
  • Moulin Rouge (18) FA: Patrick and Josie McCann Dec 2014
  • Chorus Line (17) FA: Mike Scott Jan 2015 Bolted by Patrick McCann
  • Burlesque (19) FA: Patrick McCann Apr 2015
  • Cedar Brew (19) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann November 2015
  • Cedar Stout (20) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann May 2015
  • Cedar Weiss (17) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann Dec 2017
  • Cedar Blonde (17) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann May 2015
Photographer-Amrei Von Hase


Trad

From left to right

CanCan Alley Trad Lines - Topo.jpg

  • A: ChaCha (16) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2002): Climb the obvious diagonal crack on first buttress.
  • B: Tap Dance (12) FA: Patrick McCann, Mike Scott and Adele McCann (2002): Well protected climb through lay back at 1/3rd height and then steep jugs to top.
  • C: CanCan Arête (13) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2004):
  • D: CanCan Diagonal (12) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2004)
  • E: CanCan Central (14) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2010)
  • F: Grey Arête (12) FA: Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2010)
  • G: Candlewood (16) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann (2014) – Start at tree as for alternate start to Moulin Rouge, climb up past cauliflower feature, to vertical crack at 2/3rd height (crux) and then jugs to top. A nice, well protected line - keep your large nut (BD size 13) for the vertical crack. (now bolted)
  • Hot Tango (15)

Start about 5m right of CanCan Diagonal, at the top of a pile of boulders. Climb just to the left of a fragile series of side pulls. Step right to a dark brown grove and follow that to a slightly steep section with good holds. Then continue straight to the top of the crag.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)

  • Summer Salsa (15)

Start about 5m right of Hot Tango. Climb up to a brown recess and then straight up the wall.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters (Dec 2017)

Cancan.jpg

Left to right: Hot Tango, Summer Salsa. There are now chains for a sport route about ¾ the way up between these two routes that could be used for descent.

  • Camel Man (16)

Start about 2m right of Moulin Rouge and climb a direct line till the small ledge at about 2/3rd height, then head diagonally right up the final 5m.

FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett (Dec 2017)

  • Striptease (16)

Climbs a direct line up the wall about 2.5m right of Burlesque. Take care with gear at the start.

FA: R. Halsey (Dec 2017)


Lucky Strike and Chorus Line Walls.jpg

Lucky Strike Wall.jpg

Sarie Marais Gulley

  • Balancing Act (18)

In the middle of left hand wall (facing towards Can Can area) is a finger crack. Follow this to the ledge, then step right and climb the short steep face above (this is actual a large block that appears to be balancing on the top of the gulley, so user discretion is advised).

FA: R. Halsey & T. Dunnett


  • Medunsa (18)

To the right of Balancing Act is a broken hand crack, and right of that is a separate face. Climb the middle of this face to the top. Some tricky gear in places, and some slightly fragile rock.

FA: R. Halsey

  • Tunnel Vision (15)

Really good and steep for the grade. On the wall opposite Balancing Act, is a dark brown recess with a crack line running up out of it. Climb up to the recess and straight up the steep wall above.

FA: R. Halsey & F. Walters

Smg.jpg


Left to Right: Balancing Act, Medunsa, Cuddlefish

Kiddies Wall

Small but aesthetic block between Sarie Marais Gully and Can Can Area

  • Cuddle Fish (13)

Take a central line up the short, dark red face.

R.Halsey & F. Walters

Bushman Wall



  • Boesman (12) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Lena (12) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Rockart (13) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Poison Arrow (13) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Water Skin (13) FA: M. Scott 2000
  • Auburn Strawberries' (14) FA: R. Halsey & B. Excell 11/09/2010
    From the Babe Area car park, walk past the Bushman wall on the right for a few mins to the buttress. Climb a central line through series of rails. Rap down gulley on left to avoid nasty plants on the walk off back and around.

AuburnStrawberries.jpg
Auburn Strawberries 14

Photos



The dyno on Hueco Punks
Mad Moose Disease 25
King Cobra 24
Cormac Tooze FA DynoSmite-1;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
Cormac Tooze FA DynoSmite-1;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
Malcolm Gowans FA Sceletium Skank-1;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
Malcolm Gowans FA Sceletium Skank-2;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase


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