Difference between revisions of "Truitjieskraal"

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=== '''''<big><big>Cleavage Wall</big></big>''''' ===
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* '''Schlot Machine (24)''' FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
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* '''The Abyss (22)''' FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
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* '''Shut Up 'n Play Yer Guitar (22)''' FA: T. Lourens 2011<br> Slightly up a gully, right of Cleavage Wall
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=== '''''<big><big>Hueco Punks Area</big></big>''''' ===
 
=== '''''<big><big>Hueco Punks Area</big></big>''''' ===
 
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From left to right:
 
From left to right:
  
* '''Shut Up 'n Play Yer Guitar (22)''' FA: T. Lourens 2011<br>Towards cleavage wall and slightly up a gully
 
 
* '''Nice Enough (15)''' FA: S. Lundgren 1996
 
* '''Nice Enough (15)''' FA: S. Lundgren 1996
 
* '''Knee Bar Wager (17)''' FA: Amy Whistler 1996
 
* '''Knee Bar Wager (17)''' FA: Amy Whistler 1996

Revision as of 08:56, 19 April 2017

General Info

Truitjieskraal is a beautiful area in the Cederberg, consisting of 85% sport climbing and 15% trad climbing, although this is predominantly a sport climbing venue. The routes are single pitch of moderate length (+/-30m).
The rock type is coarse Sandstone with a range of grades from easy to difficult on vertical to overhanging rock.
The walk-ins are short and you can always find shade somewhere.

Guide book

Wolfberg Cracks, Tony Lourens, 2008 (available from http://www.cederbergpark.com)
Western Cape Rock, Tony Lourens, 2015

Getting there

Total journey time is 2½-3½ hour drive North of Cape Town of which 1 hour is a good dirt road.
From Cape Town drive north on the N7. About after Citrusdal, take the turnoff to Algeria. Stay on the gravel road past Algeria for about 45 min, until you see the turnoff to the right to Krom River.
Follow the road to the Krom Rivier Campsite. Once at Krom Rivier campsite ask the office for directions (and permit) to Truitjieskraal.

Food & accommodation

Camping at Krom Rivier (http://www.cederbergpark.com)
Prices are very good and campsites have electricity.
You need to take your own food for the duration of your trip (the last town is Citrusdal).
Great Restaurant and a Brewery. (http://www.cederbergpark.com)

Notes

No camping is allowed in Truitjieskraal
You need to obtain a permit to climb here. (Wild Card and MCSA members can get it for free)
Permits are available at the Krom River Office (http://www.cederbergpark.com)

Season

Climbing is possible all year round all, though it does get very hot in December/January/February - July/August are very cold (frost like cold) and you will probably see some snow on the higher peaks. Spring and autumn are choice times.


Climbing Areas

Truitjieskraal map.png



Ken's Block



  • Hot Chocolate (26) FA: K. Schumann 1996
  • Hunks on the Ceiling (26) FA: K. Schumann 1996
  • Little Red Riding Helmet (24) FA: K. Schumann 1996
  • Cork Soaker (22) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
  • Sock Tucker (20) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996



Punks in the Cederberg Wall



Sport

From left to right:

  • Chasing the Dragon (19) FA: A. von Hase 05/01/2013 B.B: M. Gowans; A. von Hase; C Tooze
  • Sugarman (20) FA: C. Tooze 05/01/2013 B.B: M. Gowans; A. von Hase; C Tooze
    (This route is run-out between bolts two and three.)
  • Radical Dance Party (21) FA: C. Bruton 1996
    A classic!
  • Punks in the Cederberg (26) FA: P. Schlotveldt 1996
    A hold might have broken on this route, since it seems several grades harder than 26
  • Route the Brute (25) C. Bruton 1996
    This route includes a five move traverse to the left to clip, and then five moves right to get you back to where you were. Nevertheless, it is an awesome line.
  • Skunks in the Bin (25) FA: P. Schlotveldt 1996
    Climb the roof, then easy ground to the top.

Trad

Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.


The Crack (22) FA:C. Edelstein
Left: Monks in Sin (14) FA: M. Scott; Right: Cuppucino Rules (13) FA: M. Scott


Trance Dance (12) FA: M. Scott



Cleavage Wall



  • Schlot Machine (24) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • The Abyss (22) FA: J. Temple-Forbes 1996
  • Shut Up 'n Play Yer Guitar (22) FA: T. Lourens 2011
    Slightly up a gully, right of Cleavage Wall



Hueco Punks Area



From left to right:

  • Nice Enough (15) FA: S. Lundgren 1996
  • Knee Bar Wager (17) FA: Amy Whistler 1996
  • Hueco Punks (26) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
    Fun dyno!
  • Crimping Christmas (25) FA: P. Schlotfeldt 1996
    Same start as Hueco Punks
  • Knees Up (18) FA: J. Schlotfeldt 1996
  • Nick Nack (17) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Paddy Whack (20) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Give the Dog a Bone (18) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Skinhead Stomp (17) FA: P. McCann 1996
  • Way to Go (15) FA: M. Scott 1996



Mad Cowboy Area



From left to right:

  • Mad Cowboys' Disease 31
    FA: Todd Skinner
    Hard!
  • Mad Moose Disease 25
    FA: Unknown
    This is where the deon (pronounced with a nasal ending as in garçon) move was invented. A deon is similiar to a gaston, except it involves dropping your right foot so that you can reach higher with your left hand, and has little to do with reverse laybacking. The deon was invented by Deon Hugo.



Alzheimer's Area



Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.

Alzheimer's C route on rib



Dragon Wall



  • Pendragon 18 (N)

Several meters left of the Dragon is a pillar. Climb up the centre of this and lend slightly left at the top. Scramble down the gulley to descend

FA: R. Halsey 18/6/2011


  • Dragonboat 20 (N)

On the buttress infront of Dragon Cleft. Climb the crack in a vague corner and up the featured face to a roof. Move left past the roof and straight to top. Scramble off back.

FA: R. Halsey 18/06/2011


  • Double Dragon 21 (N)

Start about 5m right of Dragonboat. Rail in from the right and up a steep crack system. Move slightly left and up the face, finishing at the arched crack at the top. Scramble off back

FA: J. Hajos 18/06/2011


From the left: Pendragon (18), Dragonboat (20) and Double Dragon (21)



Red Turret



  • Silly Sermon 19 (N)

R. Halsey & G. Dondel 12/09/10

5m L of Yellow River there is a large boulder. Stand on a rock on the boulder/jump to gain a jug. Heel hook and crank onto face. Straight up and easily to top


  • Brick Rover 18 (N)

R. Halsey & G. Dondel 12/09/10

Between the Red Turret and Ken’s block is an attractive overhanging arete. Climb up to platform, traverse 1m R to below two pockets. Tend diagonally left until in line with centre of arete and gun for the top. Walk off and down gulley to R of route.


BrickRover.jpg
Brick Rover 18

Give Away Wall



From left to right:

  • Flint Hard 22
  • Flint Soft 22
  • Old Codger's Ego-Boost 24 FA: Jason Temple-Forbes
  • The Passion 26 FA: Jeremy Samson
  • The Line, the Witch, and the Wardrobe 28
  • Golden Handshake 34, FA: Clinton Martinengo
  • Million Dollar Giveaway 29



Parkinson's Wall




Rattler Area



Photo's (provided by Mike Scott) below show the trad routes.

What? (13) FA: M. Scott
What? (13) FA: M. Scott


Where? (11) FA: M. Scott



Top Parking Area



  • Auburn Strawberries 14 (N)

R. Halsey & B. Excell 11/09/2010

From the Babe Area carpark, walk past the Bushman wall on the R for a few mins to te buttress. Climb a central line through series of rails. Rap down gulley on L to avoid nasty plants on the walk off back and around

AuburnStrawberries.jpg
Auburn Strawberries 14

Snake Charmer Area



Sport

From left to right:

  • The Snake Charmer 27, FA: Todd Skinner
  • King Cobra 24, FA: Todd Skinner
  • Pass the Ham 27, FA: Jeremy Samson
  • Get Shorty 23, FA: Jeremy Samson
  • Babe 21, FA: Jeremy Samson

Trad

Slither Me Timbers (13) FA: M. Scott



Can Can Alley



Patrick McCann and Mike Scott started climbing in this area in 2002 and over the years opened a number of trad lines. Malcolm Gowan's then put up the first sport route in 2011.

This area lies in a hidden gully parallel to the main gully but closer to the Snake Charmer area. From the central parking, follow a well marked path that runs parallel to the road and keeping some smaller crags on your left. follow the cairns right, up and onto some rock slabs. Scramble up and over boulders to access the hidden gully. The routes are on the left wall --Xenomorph (talk) 15:15, 18 April 2017 (SAST)

Sport

From left to right

  • Fynhoud (19) FA: A. von Hase, M. Gowans Jan 2015
  • Dust Devil (24) FA: M. Gowans Jan 2015
  • Dynosmite (19) FA: Cormac Tooze 03-09-2011
  • Skeletium Skank (23) FA: Malcolm Gowans 03-09-2011
  • Chasing my Bokkie (16) FA: Malcolm Gowans 21-12-2013.
  • Spring Haasie Spring (14) FA: Amrei von Hase 21-12-2013. Bolted by M Gowans & A von Hase
  • Luna Llena (16) FA: Javier Gutierrez. 07-09-2014. Bolted by Javier Gutierrez & Malcolm Gowans
  • Lucky Strike (21) A: Malcolm Gowans & Amrei von Hase
  • Moulin Rouge {left start} (15) FA: Patrick and Josie McCann Dec 2014
  • Moulin Rouge (18) FA: Patrick and Josie McCann Dec 2014
  • Chorus Line (18) FA: Mike Scott Jan 2015 Bolted by Patrick McCann
  • Burlesque (20) FA: Patrick McCann Apr 2015
  • Cedar Brew (19) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann November 2015
  • Cedar Stout (20) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann May 2015
  • Cedar Blonde (17) FA: Patrick and Adele McCann May 2015
Photographer-Amrei Von Hase


Trad

From left to right

CanCan Alley Trad Lines - Topo.jpg

  • A: ChaCha, 16, Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2002): Climb the obvious diagonal crack on first buttress.
  • B: Tap Dance, 12, Patrick McCann, Mike Scott and Adele McCann (2002): Well protected climb through lay back at 1/3rd height and then steep jugs to top.
  • C: CanCan Arete, 13, Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2004):
  • D: CanCan Diagonal, 12, Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2004)
  • E: CanCan Central, 14, Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2010)
  • F: Grey Arete, 12, Mike Scott, Patrick and Adele McCann (2010)
  • G: Candlewood, 16, Patrick and Adele McCann (2014) – Start at tree as for alternate start to Moulin Rouge, climb up past cauliflower feature, to vertical crack at 2/3rd height (crux) and then jugs to top. A nice, well protected line - keep your large nut (BD size 13) for the vertical crack.


Lucky Strike and Chorus Line Walls.jpg

Lucky Strike Wall.jpg

Photos



The dyno on Hueco Punks
Mad Moose Disease 25
King Cobra 24
Cormac Tooze FA DynoSmite-1;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
Cormac Tooze FA DynoSmite-1;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
Malcolm Gowans FA Sceletium Skank-1;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase
Malcolm Gowans FA Sceletium Skank-2;Photographer-Amrei Von Hase


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