Valken Buttress

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Like Barrier Valken Buttress has two sides: West and South facing with a vague arete in between. The West Face is dominated by a 3m horizontal roof which spans over 25m of the wall, beneath which is a large orange slab. To confuse us this is called Barrier Cave. on the left side of this is a smaller tea cave.

Approach: as for Barrier, take the Kasteel Poort path until it cuts a steep ravine between Valken and Kasteel. Take this Ravine until a left path is found which ultimately goes on via Valken to Barrier.

Descent as for Barrier the easiest is to walk down between Barrier and Valken then take the abseil to the base. Alternatively you could walk over and take Kasteel Poort down, but its not clear which is easier as they are both straight forward.

Valken Ravine ( Left Hand) Valken Ravine ( Right Hand)

Valken Crag ** F1 D.M. Carter, B. Fletcher, L. Scoble 1950

A pleasant route with a disjointed top section. Start: about 6m left of the tree at the start of Valken Face.

Pitch 1. 8m (F2 or 17) Pull through a black corner. climb up about a meter on the face and traverse left to a small corner. Pull up, then move right and up to the ledge above.

Pitch 2. 9m (F1 or 16) Scramble left over a boulder to a small black amphitheater to the left of the second pitch of Barrier Ravine. Climb unto a small cave under an overhang, using the block to the left swing around the block and move up to a stance.

Pitch 3. Scramble up some minor rock-work and slog up Barrier Ravine to the upper sections. Where the slope abuts the main buttress, there is a large and apparent overhang. The Parapet Starts immediately to the left of the overhang, but Crag continues way over to the right where there is a square shaped overhang about 20m up. In a fault slightly to the right are the pitches which lead up to and turn this overhang. Scramble up about 6m to a large beacon.

Pitch 4. 15m (E3 or 15) Layback up the edge of some large clean-cut flakes, below an obvious fault to a stance about 6m up. Continue up a smooth, slightly overhanging right angled recess. Beneath the overhang at the top of the recess traverse left to a stance around the corner on top of the square overhang.

Pitch 5. 5m (E2 or 14) From a huge poised boulder on the left, climb a clean, mildly exposed face to a broad ledge.

Pitch 6. 7m (D or 12) The next stance is reached via an easy corner to the right.

Pitch 7. 10m ( E2 or 14) A tricky start up a crack for 3m. Above this, traverse left and up to a ledge 3m wide. The ledge to the left tapers down to about 0.5m. Continue aling for about 12m where the ledge boradens slightly before petering out on the face.

Pitch 8. 14m (E3 or 15) Climb 3m up a black projecting corner on the left face, to a narrow ledge. Traverse 5m left along this ledge where, by a wide step across onto a broken face a small stance 5m up and left is reached. {Sorry, the grammar here is horrendous, but this is a verbatim copied from the 1978 guide. Please climb it and better this!}

Pitch 9. 14m (E3 or 15) climb a 6m crack above the stance and continue up easy rock to a broad ledge. It is possible to traverse off from here.

Pitch 10. 23m (E2 or 14) Start up a corner 7m right. After a hard start the route veers right to the final beacon.

Valken Frontal Shock Absorber Valkenism Valken Surprise Thunder and Lichen When I'm 64 Valken Corner Valken Edge Valkenetti

Helter Skelter Humdinger Penetration Slumber Crag Valken "D" Valken Face Valken Needle Valken Parapet Valken South Face Valken Wall