Difference between revisions of "Waterval Boven"
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These route updates are supplements to the current guide book with 512 routes for the greater Waterval Boven Area. Contact the publishers, Roc 'n Rope Adventures [http://www.rocrope.com] to find out where to get a copy before it goes out of print.
These route updates are supplements to the current guide book with 512 routes for the greater Waterval Boven Area. Contact the publishers, Roc 'n Rope Adventures [http://www.rocrope.com] to find out where to get a copy before it goes out of print.
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FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004
FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004
Revision as of 17:41, 11 October 2010
Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.
- 1 Getting There
- 2 Accommodation and Food
- 3 Safety
- 4 Rest Day Activities
- 5 Route Updates
- 5.1 Triple tier crags
- 5.2 Time bomb block
- 5.3 Waterfall Area
- 5.4 Triple tier crags
- 5.5 Time bomb block
- 5.6 Wonderland
- 5.6.1 Tranquilitas
- 5.6.2 Baboon Buttress
- 5.6.3 Rainy Day Wall
- 5.6.4 The God No! Wall
- 5.6.5 Hallucinogen Wall
- 5.6.6 Reunion Wall
- 5.6.7 The Superbowl
- 5.6.8 The Theater
- 5.6.9 The Right Wing
- 5.6.10 The Stone Philosopher Area
<googlemap lat="-25.642" lon="30.3288" zoom="11"> -25.642, 30.3288, Waterval-Boven, South Africa </googlemap>
If you are coming from outside Gauteng or Mpumalunga, the best city to fly to is either Nelspruit or Johannesburg. Nelspruit is closer to Waterval Boven, but flying to Johannesburg may be cheaper.
- From Nelspruit: follow the sign for Machadodorp, Witbank or even Johannesburg. Once on the N4 keep going straight for about 95km and take turn off on your left for Waterval Boven.
- From Johannesburg: drive east on the N12 (take direction Boksburg out of the airport), then follow the N4 to Waterval Boven.
For bookings and info, visit the Roc 'n Rope office next to the third stop sign after entering the town of Waterval Boven.
For pics of 'Boven visit the ClimbZA Gallery
Accommodation and Food
A great place to stay is the Roc 'n Rope Climbers' Lodge in the town of Waterval Boven (bunks or double rooms). They also rent out 4-sleeper chalets on top of the Wonderland Crags (Tranquillitas Chalets) and can tell you about camping options. They also sell and rent most climbing equipment and offer rest day alternatives like mountain bike rentals.
Roc 'n Rope: Tel: 013 257 0363, email@example.com
The Elandskrans Mountain Resort is open again under new management, but still has issues with regards to crime, the latest being an armed robbery at the ablution block on 2009/03/29 . Rather stay at the Tranquillitas Chalets on top of the Wonderland crags. If you're looking for alternatives in Boven check out the local accommodation booking site 
Food basics can be bought in town. Good quality meat can be found at affordable prices.
Waterval Boven is free of malaria and climbers do not have to take precautions.Climbers travelling to the Kruger National Park for a day or two shouldn't have a problem.If you plan an extended visit consult your family doctor or pharmacist about anti-malarial medication.
Snakes and spiders
These animals will make themselves scarce when they hear you approaching.If you do encounter them give them the right of way since you are in their home.
There have been problems with crime in the past (muggings and car break-ins). Climbers should not take any valuables (cellphones, cameras, wallets, passports) to the Waterfall crags, Island or Sport Valley Areas as a precaution.
There are currently climbers visiting all the crags around Waterval Boven. Most have been frequenting the Wonderland Area because it is nice and far out of town and there have never been issues with crime (it is cooler in the summer heat as well!).
Emergency Phone Numbers
Mountain Club of SA Rescue Service: 011 315 0203. This service is based in Johannesburg, but operators can alert rescue teams from other regions.
Local Rescue Services:
- 072 228 1643 - Inspector Alwyn Venter (chief of rescue services)
- 082 753 3695 - Gustav Janse van Rensburg
- 013 257 0001 / 112 - Waterval Boven Police
- 013 257 0015 - Waterval Boven Hospital
- 10111 - SA Police
- 10117 - Ambulance
- 082 911 - Emergency
Rest Day Activities
This historical monument located in Waterval Onder was the last residence of President Paul Kruger in the South African Republic (ZAR).
Enjoy a 1 hour tour of these really interesting 200 million year old cave features and chambers.
The Kruger National Park
With 507 bird species, 336 tree types, 49 fish species, 114 reptiles, 34 amphibians and 147 mammals you simply can not afford to miss out on this place.
There are plenty of hiking opportunities in the areas around town but these are mostly day hikes.
The local crags provide plenty bouldering opportunities. Within in a 30min from town you can reach Kaapsche Hoop where you can find some 3 star bouldering. An hours drive from town you can find Gold Rush which offers excellent 5 star bouldering.
Bambi Paragliding is located 20km from Waterval Boven. They offer tandem flights, training and a good launch site.
The hills around town offer exciting mountain biking opportunities with existing trails.
Blaauwboschkraal Trails are friendly locals who offer historical and multi day horse back trips across the hills surrounding town.
The Waterval Boven Trout Lodge and Trout association can be contacted for licences, rental of rods and also for guidance and instruction.
These route updates are supplements to the current guide book with 512 routes for the greater Waterval Boven Area. Contact the publishers, Roc 'n Rope Adventures  to find out where to get a copy before it goes out of print.
Triple tier crags
Time bomb block
The Last Crag of the Century
15.5) UNPLUGGED AVENUE 14 ** [N,A] Climb the thin crack to the right of ELECTRIC AVENUE to the ledge at the end of EA's first pitch. FA: Herman van Zyl, Karen Stegmann & Hendrik Neethling 2009
19.5) MONKEY PUZZLE 28 *** [11D] Climb straight up from the third bolt of FUDGE BEATS BURFEE through a reachy roof section. Harder for short people. Tie a knot in the end of your rope! FA: Jens Richter 2005
21) CAFFEINE JITTERS 15 *** [12D] This route is now rebolted and lots of fun for the WHOLE family! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen 2001 (BB) Jaco Myburgh & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005
25.5) CHAKALAKA 20 **** [12D] Break out right after the third bolt of THE THREE MOSQUITOES. FA: Bine Tittel 2005
82.5) FUNKY FRUIT 16 *** [N] At Out of Germany look away from the river accros the little gully. Start just left of the tree roots on the obvious line going slightly to the right. At the top of the tree go one move to the left and then follow the obvious line again. Wach out for the huge loose boulder on your right. FA: Ruan Pretorius & Jaco de Wet 2006
82.7) TWO FOR TREE 17 ** [N] Climb a finger crack in the recess below a massif creeper fig tree. Climb over some roots heading through the flaring chimney to finish slightly up and right high up. FA:Chris Jansen & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006
83.5) YOU CAN TAKE YOUR DOG TO THE WATER... 18 *** [N] Start left around the corner and up the recess from THE WIZARD OF OZ. Step right avoiding a tree and into the crack. Climb this onto the arete halfway up. Then traverse left into the obvious crack and up. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004
85.2) CREEP IT 'N REAP IT 17 *** [N] Start just right from THE GUTTER in a corner. Climb this into a roof then step out left (crux) and then easy up to a (belay) ledge. From ledge, traverse right to the arete and follow to top through the creeper fig. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Johann Venter 2004
85.3) ET TU CEASAR 19 *** [N] 20m right of the loose pillar, a rippled face with a chimney crack just right of it is found. Climb the face to a rail. Traverse right into the chimney onto a ledge. Climb straight up close to the right edge of the ledge on powerful moves. Continue through the overlap to a ledge then head for the tallest headwall of the crag. The route is 45m long and can be done in 2 pitches. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004
85.4) BOA RODEO 31 ***** [N] The left crack on the obvious steep leaning wall on the far right of this 40m high crag. FA: Jens Richter 2003
85.5) MULUNGU GOES TO SCHOOL 32 **** [1B,N] Starts from the big block right of Boa Rodeo. One bolt protects the bottom crux followed by some technical, run out endurance sections. FA: Jens Richter 2005
85.6) SCRABBLE 18 *** [N] Takes the corner right of the steep cracks on the obvious overhanging wall. Climb left towards anchors on the headwall. FA: Johann Olivier & Jens Richter 2003
85.7) KHAMIKAZI LEILA 17 *** [N] Starts in a left facing corner below the slanting crack 10m right of SCRABBLE. Climb left past tree roots around a corner to the base of the crack. Follow the crack to the summit. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Claire Keeton 2004
85.8) IN MY PLACE 19 *** [N] 30m right of SCRABBLE. Climb the crack on the steep wall 5m left of an arete till under the roof. Step out left then back onto the headwall keeping right of the tree. Possible to make a stance here, or continue on easier ground to the top. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Johann Olivier & Skapie van Niekerk 2004
85.9) THORNICATION 18 *** [N] Start 8 right of IN MY PLACE in a corner. Climb the corner then pull through a small roof on good holds, move right to the arete and climb to top. Abseil off thorn tree which is located about 5m below the top. FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004
Triple tier crags
Time bomb block
323.5) MIND GAMES PROJECT Starts just right of shadow man. This is a project bolted by Alex Bester and Wesley Black. Just contact us if you wanna climb it. This one is into the thirties. An amazing line. I do recommend it. BB Alex Bester and Wesley Black Oct 2010. Bolts sponsored by MCSA - JHB/MAG Section
347.3) MILOU 9 *** [8D] Starts just left of the tree at the base of Crouching Tiger. This route does not go all the way to the top of the crag. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Charles Fourie 2007
347.4) CROUCHING TIGER 12 *** [10D] Starts on a block just right of the tree growing out of the crack line that makes up this route. FA: Charles Fourie, Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
347.43) MEL 11 *** [8D] Shares the first bolt with CROUCHING TIGER, then climb up the slab. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
347.47) ME TARZAN, YOU JANE 16 **** [9D] Boulder up the arrete of the left facing corner, then step accross onto the main face and up. FA: Agnes Fiamma & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
347.5) JACKY CHAN 14 *** [9D] Start inside a stradle width chimney 20m right of the obviuos Huffing Warthog crack. Reach a large picnic ledge after 2 bolts and continue onto the main face. FA: Charles Fourie & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
347.6) CONSISTENCY IS FASHION 17 **** [10D] Start on the broken looking corner with an hourglass feature halfway up the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
347.65) FEEL GOOD 14 *** [7D] Approach from the left to gain a platform beneath a tree. Step across onto blocky rock. Climb the prominent layback crack. Halfway up the route changes from crack climbing to face climbing. FA: Brad Davies, Kieren Davies & Hilton Davies 2008
347.7) EXCUSE ME, WHILE I KISS THE SKY 19 **** [10D] Climb onto a ledge towards a crack leading steeply through the double and up. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Derk Battjes 2007
Good And Evil Area
355.5) NEW ROUTE 12 ??? This route starts up on a ledge halfway up the crag, right of COOL RUNNINGS. [Please provide the details if you opened this line.]
355.6) NITRO'S TICK FEVER 25 *** [10?D] A long term project opened up by a visiting Czech climber. FA: Jan ???? BB: Neil Margetts
357.4) LOST IN TRANSLATION 22 *** [14D] Starts about 20m left of SWAT Team. Keep slightly left on small crimps as you break through the initial overhang and hang on for the great ride to the chains! FA: Mark Millar 2004
357.5) ATLANTIS 27 **** [11D] A great line just right of LIT. Head into the corner and race for the chains using some technical know how. Originally opened at 26 but the grade seems to have settled at 27, for now... FA: Andrew Pedley 2004
357.6) ELDORADO 28 **** [11D] One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and impeccable sequence of technical mastery takes you to the chains. Concensus is easy 28 (7c). FA: Andrew Pedley 2004
357.7) INCA TRAIL 27 **** [11Dish] A slabby looking line on the golden wall between SWAT Team & Eldorado. The line climbs better than it looks, weaving its way through a series of balancy moves. FA: Andrew Pedley, June 2009
357.8) S.W.A.T. Team 24 **** [10D] A lovely intro to this section of the wall. Amazingly comfortable holds and great friction. Rebolted (its now safe) and upgraded from 23. Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. FA: Mark Millar & Marc Efune. BB: Mark Millar & Mike Garrard 2003
357.9) FEVER 29 *** [10D] Start on a big block and climb a cruxy 4 bolts over a roof. Continue up the bolt line to the anchors. Beta will help. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2009
363.3) ALEX's MOUSSE AU CHOCOLAT 17 **** [13D] Starts in the back of a little gulley, behind a free standing pillar, left of ROC RALLY. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006
363.4) EVELYN 18 *** [12D] Starts halfway up a pillar on a stance. At the third bolt, climb over onto the main wall. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006
363.45) BALANCE OF POWER 22 **** [8D] Takes the groove just left of ROC RALLY. Consensus seems to have brought this climb down to 22 from 24! FA: Ed February & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
363.5) ROC RALLY 21 *** [9D] A short route 20m left of FUG. FA: Alard Hüfner 2006
363.6) FUG 22 **** [?D] New route well indicated on the rock. FA: Unknown 2005
363.65) BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BELAYER 22 *** [10D] One bolt on the face takes you through the trees with funky moves onto the face above and to the top of the crag. A 60m rope is just long enough! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Ed Febraury 2007
363.7) ENDLESS BLOWJOB 18 *** [12D] The well marked climb left of LITTLE BONSAI. FA: Unknown 2005
363.8) LITTLE BONSAI 16 **** [12D] The first route left of the recess where CHIMNEYING TAMMY hides away. Classic at the grade. FA: Unknown 2005
367.4) I FEEL ROCKS 24 ** [8D] Starts on a pile of rocks 3m left of BIOGALACTIC GARGLEBLASTER. Power through the roof and traverse diagonally up to slabs above. FA: Sean Ferguson 2003
367.5) UP YOUR TREE 20 *** [9D] Shares a start with I FEEL ROCKS. Use the tree to get onto the overlap. Join up with the final moves on BIOGALACTIC GARGLEBLASTER. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2003
Rubik's Cube Boulders
369.3) STITCH IT 29/30 *** [6D] Halfway down the standard scramble, look left. The route pulls straight up the middle of the face on the leaning free-standing boulder. Move right at the slopey side pull to a jug out right by means of one really hard iron cross, no feet, go and believe move. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2008
369.4) PIT FIGHTER 31 ***** Direct version of STITCH IT. From the obvious slopey right hand side pull keep going straight up, slightly left on small holds. Leave the chalk bag behind. Probably 7C+ boulder. Fantastic power test-piece. FA: Andrew Pedley April 2009
369.5) RUBIK'S CUBE 28 **** [6D] Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves, nice route. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2008
369.01) PAPSAK Unkown grade [+-6D] Anyone have the details for this route? Goes up the arete left of AFTER THOUGHT's corner FA: Unknown
369.05) LOOPDOP 17 *** [7D] Up middle of face left of AFTER THOUGHT's corner. FA: Unknown
369.07) A.S 14 * [6D] Climbs the chimney just right of AFTER THOUGHT's corner. FA: Unknown
369.1) AFTER THOUGHT 16 * [5D] Climbs the corner crack situated to the left of the descent gully (when facing the bottom of the gully). FA: Darryl Margetts August 2009
Closed Project: (DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE TILL IT HAS BEEN OPENED!!!!!)[Ken Thrash] The route ascends the face around the corner of the right arete of the descent gully.
Closed Project: (DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE TILL IT HAS BEEN OPENED!!!!!)[7D][Ken Thrash] The route ascends the right arete of the descent gully
Closed Project: (DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE TILL IT HAS BEEN OPENED!!!!!)[7D] [Brian Weaver] Starts off of the lowest boulders in the gully. Arcs right up the right hand face.
369.4) BABOONS IN BOARDSHORTS 14 ** [7D] First route on the left in descent gully. Start one metre left of the skyline arête and angle up leftwards on grey slab. FA: Kieren Davies, Brad Davies & Hilton Davies 2008
369.5) TRENCH TOWN 15 *** [5D] DRIES Slab on arête in descent gully. FA:C Vandereydt & M Demilano 2006
369.6) ADAM 22 **** [6D] From the ledge halfway down the descent gully, climb slanting feature. FA:Greg De Gidts & Chris Vandereydt 2007
370.3) ONE LOVE 22 *** [5D] Climb the face just right of the cave. FA:Chris Vandereydt 2006
370.35) ALMOST USCHI 22 **** [6D] Surprisingly pleasant face left of the GRIZZLY BEHRS crack. FA: Sarel Petrus 2007
370.4) GRIZZLY BEHRS 16 **** [9D] DRIES Climb the cool looking crack for a good distance to main ledge. FA: Mike Behr & Christopher Dabrowski 2006
370.47) RENEWABLE ENERGY 18 *** [8D] From the ledge below the open book, head left onto the steep face. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
370.5) LUCKY LEILA 22 ***  DRIES Start up the groove from the blocky ledge behind the tree. Take care clipping the high first bolt. Climb the face followed by a roof. FA: Marianne Pretorius 2004
370.55) WHAIT WATCHER PITCH 1 17 ** [5D] From the ledge below the open book, traverse one move right and up the groove. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
370.56) WHAIT WATCHER PITCH 2 21 *** [8D] Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
370.6) QINA 19 *** [???] DRIES Start on top of the large block. Straight up the short steep wall and onto the ledge, continue on to good anchors. FA: Christopher Dabrowski 2007
370.65) NO MORE DYNAMO 20 *** [8D] Starts on the large block in the middle of the path. Climb slightly left to start off. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2007
371.3) SLAVE SPECIES 25 *** [6D] DRY Just right of UP IN SMOKE. Share chains with PRETENDERS. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2008
371.5) PRETENDERS 24 **** [8D] DRY Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof. FA: Michael Cartwright 2007
371.6) GOOSE ON THE LOOSE 26 *** [9D] DRIES Shares first 5 bolts with Pretenders, clip the next 2 bolts and then finish at original anchors for (harder) direct finish. FA: Mark Seuring 2006 BB: Marianne Pretorius 2004
372.3) KANNIE-BALLISTIC 26 **** [12D] SEEPS Start on the tree at the base of the chimney that becomes UP ALARD'S CRACK. Follow bolts left and up then step over and continue diagonally right after the steep section. Straight up on the headwall is still In Progress. Take long draws for bolts no. 3, 4 and 7 if you want to take out a bit of rope drag. A must do. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006
372.4) LEGENDS 25 *** [6D] DRY Nice face climb, rails out right a bit after the final bolt. FA: Mike Cartwright 2006
372.5) JAMANI 19 *** [6D] DRY Fine dihedral with a good crack. Finish below the roof. FA: Mike Cartwright, Christopher Dabrowski and Gustav Janse van Rensurg 2006
372.6) SWEET PLUMB 25 **** [14D] Long face climb to the right of the main roof. Head up the crack toward the surprisingly solid excrament. FA: Alard Hufner 2007
372.6(a) SOUR GRAPES 24 *** [13D] Route climbs the face between SWEET PLUMB and THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES, climb past the chains of TBTR and goes all the way to the top. FA: Ken Thrash October 2008
372.6(b) THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES 12 *** [7D] Starts 2m right of Sweet Plumb, just right of the obvious off-width crack and climb the arête. FA: Darryl Margetts August 2008
372.6(c) TWICE IN A BLUE MOON: 18 *** [7D] Route climbs the off-width crack between THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES and WILD FIRE. FA: Ken Thrash and Darryl Margetts April 2009
Rainy Day Wall
372.7(1) WILD FIRE 25 *** [10D] Starts about 2m left of Heroes. Pull through the roof at the bottom and follow the shallow open book to the chains. FA: Ken Thrash August 2008.
372.7) HEROES 26 *** [9D] DRY Start in a short overhanging corner, climb up this and up the wall above to below the upper roof. FA: Mike Cartwright 2006
372.7a) Closed Project A few metres right of Heroes is a right trending project. Bolted by Andrew Pedley and Dylan Voigt June 2010
372.7b) THE BOVENATOR 28 ****(12D) Starts by the black streak. A tricky compression start lead to lots and lots of fun. This is your chance to be The Bovenator. FA: Andrew Pedley August 2010
372.7c) Closed Project [Mark Millar] Anchors placed June 2008. Plan is to head for the obvious arete.
372.8) DREAMERS 23 ** [11D] DRY Main recess to major ledge out right, longer route but 60m gets you back. FA: Christopher Dabrowski 2007
372.8a) NOT-DA-MAMA 23 ** [14D] Starts about 5m right of Dreamers and ends on the same ledge, but has its own chains. To avoid rope drag it is best to use a longer draw on the 7th bolt and once clipped into the 9th bolt, unclip the 8th bolt. FA: Ken Thrash July 2008.
372.8b) HEY MAMA 16 * [6D] Starts about 2m to the right of Not-da-Mamma. FA: Darryl Margetts July 2008.
372.8c) Closed Project (DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE TILL IT HAS BEEN OPENED!!!!!) Starts a few metres left of the drip. K. Thrash
372.8d) Closed Project (DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE TILL IT HAS BEEN OPENED!!!!!) Starts as for S.T.P. but then go further left up the face to the ledge, then up the left side of the open book to the roof and continue straight up the face to the top. K. Thrash
372.9) S.T.P. 23 *** [17D] Starts on a ledge 4m above the path, just after the waterfall/drip as you head towards God No Wall from Baboon Buttress. Beware of hard clip over the roof. A nice long journey. A 60m rope gets you back to the ledge, a 50m rope is too SHORT!!!!!! Two extra lower offs have been added to the ledge to make it a lot easier to clean and get back down onto the ground. FA: Glenn Harrison 2007
373.1) BUTTERFLY (FIRST HALF) 26 **** Great climb to chains below the massive roof. Stunning moves up the corner and through roof, easier than it looks! FA: Alard Hufner.
373.2) BIG BUTTERFLY 28 **** [lots] Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on TR with belayer at top. The top pitch alone is probably 26. FA: Andrew Pedley 2007 BB: Mark Seuring
The God No! Wall
373.3a)RODAN (Closed Project) Closed Project of A Pedley's.
373.3b)GODZILLA 31 ***** [14D] Bovens 'King Line'. Easy to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10 move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. FA. Andrew Pedley - September 2008.
373.4) MONSTER 29 ***** [16D] The “baddest” and steepest 29 at Boven!! The line with ring bolts. Not many small holds on this one, but an absolute pump-fest. It's a super-classic! Slightly harder (and even better) since the chockstone fell out but still 29. 70 m rope needed. FA: Andrew Pedley 2006 BB: Alard Hufner
373.5) THE BEAST 31 ***** [16D] Start up Monster and move right at the 4th bolt. Some funky moves through the white roof, get a rest in the 'man trap' then deadpoint your way up diagonally to the chains. Down from 32 following discovery of a no-hands-rest just where it matters. 70 m rope needed. Use slings on the bolts below the roof to reduce drag. FA: Andrew Pedley - March 2008
373.5b) SPACE CADET 30 **** [18D] 8a for the effort! A massive climb for the space cadets amongst us. Takes a cunning line through very steep ground to gain access to a wonderful headwall. A bit of everything from technical arete, burly roof, knarly crack, exposed handrailing, leaning face..a fantastic ride...Use long slings on the 3 bolts before/in the roofy section - that way drag is negligable. There are half height lower off chains. 70 m rope needed. FA: Andrew Pedley - March 2009.
373.6) FREAK-SHOW 28 * [12D] Start 2 m left of Freak-on. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs. FA Andrew Pedley July 2008
373.7) JUGGERNAUT 30 *** [12D] Shares the first 3 bolts of Freak-On and then continues straight up through 3 roofs with a hard crux after clipping the last bolt. FA Marc Flex Efune June 2009 (BB Mark Millar).
373.8) FREAK-ON 24 ***** [12D] Starts 4m to the left of CE. Crimps to the ledge then heads up the rightwards slanting weakness. Some great moves lead you up this sustained route. The route will in all likelihood remain dry during heavy rain. Solid at the grade. FA: Andrew Pedley - Jan 2008
373.9) CHOCOLATE ÉCLAIR 28 * [4D] A two bolt boulder problem put up by Mike Cartwright. The route can be done via a dyno, followed by a stiff move to the chains but has been done without. Something to throw yourself at when the rain won’t let you climb anywhere else. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud Jan 2007 BB: Mike Cartwright
373.9b) WHO NEEDS LUCKY COWS (aka death by chocolate) 31 *** (12D) Climb Choc Eclair then continue over the roof and up the headwall. Some very satisfying and crimptastic moves. FA: Daniel Gebel , September 2009.
373.9c) DUNGEONS AND DRAGONS 26 *** [13D] This route is found in the corner just right of Chocolate Eclair. Start up the ramp and into the long overhanging dihedral “behind” God No Wall. FA: Mike Cartwright Jan 2007
373.9d) TOKOLOSIE 30 **** [14D] Sustanined and with lots and lots of footwork. Starts off the big ledge L of Jack. Climb left to get into then up the corner of Dungeons, break out right through the small roof. Blast up the headwall with a pump. Shares chains of Butcher. Use long slings for the 3 bolts below the roof. FA: Andrew Pedley April 2009.
373.10) THE BACKCOUNTRY BUTCHER 31 **** (13D) Up past hard moves including a very defensive little hold, finishing up the leaning headwall via some real sequency climbing. Dont get butchered. Solid at the grade. Top third gets dusty after heavy rain. FA: Andrew Pedley Jan 2009.
373.11) CHANGING GEARS 24,23,25 *** [12D] This is a 3 pitch route that takes the first section of JACK OF ALL TRADES with one new bolt out left onto a ledge. Although it is tempting (yet possible) to do in one long pitch, it is more fun to break it up. A 50m rope will work as all the stances have rap anchors. Pitches 2 & 3 were opened on trad many moons ago. FA: Jens Ricther & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2006 BB: Gustav 2009
375.4) VORPAL SWORD 31 ***** [16D] The one that killed the Jabberwocky. Crimpy and gymnastic climbing to the right of Jabberwocky, shares first bolt with Hell Yeah. An unbelievable climb. Need a 70 m rope. FA: Andrew Pedley May 2008
375.5) HELL YEAH! 27 *** [17D] A very long climb (35m) Takes the long corner a few meters to the right of Jabberwocky, immediatly right of Vorpal Sword. Make sure to rest at the three rest spots between the three crux sections. Popular route. FA: Marc Efune Dec 2006
377.1) BURNING SPEAR 28 *** [17D] Start up the first 5 bolts of Big Bad Wolf then head right up some good sequential climbing that gets harder as you get higher. A 70m rope is required to get all the way down. FA: Marc Efune Oct 2009 BB: Reiny zee German 2009
378.1) BITTERGAL 22 *** [14D] This climb is situated to the right of Alice in Grannyland. As with Brolloks, the first few meters of climbing is on dolerite, changing to quartzite higher up. FA: Greg Borman Feb 2009
378.2) BROLLOKS 19 ***** [14D] Since being opened, this route has become very popular and must be a contender for one of the best easy climbs in the Wonderland area. Starts off the block five meteres to the right of Bittergal, from the ledge follow the bolts up to your left; sustained. FA: Greg Borman Jan 2009
378.3) GROENIE DIE DRAKIE 21 **** [13D] Just right of Brolloks. Climb up to the ledge then follow the bolts up to your left. FA: Ken Thrash June 2009
378.4) SAREL SEEMONSTER 18 ****[12D] Just right of Groenie die Drakie. Climb up to the ledge then follow the bolts up to your left. FA: Ken Thrash June 2009
391.5) TWO CAM SAM 23 *** Start in the corner up to loose looking block. FA: Dewald Kloppers 2007
394.5) MANSLAVES 15 *** Climb left face of large right facing corner to roof. Swing left under lock and up. FA: Anna "Queen of Joburg" Fatti
395.4) LA CROISIERE S'AMUSE 24 **** [10D] Start In the corner left of DEXTER'S LAB. Traverse across the face to above the off-width and a small stance. Climb diagonally left to chains. (The missing bolt has eventually been placed to avoid the fall into trees) FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, Vince 2003
395.5) LAB RAT 33 ***** [10D] Follow the crack to the left of Dexter’s Lab, and then watch your feet as you climb the leaning headwall. A desperate dyno will see you reach the chains. A short and powerful route. FA: Clinton Martinengo 2006 BB: Philippe Gaboriaud
CLOUD CITY 22 *** [10D] Climb the face left of Smokey the bear up to the overhang,pull through the overhang onto a small ledge, continue up the face to the chains.FA: E Margetts, D Margetts, A Margetts 2010.
407.5) HEMP ON THE HILL 17 **** [11D] Start one meter left of the open book just right of SHROOM HUNTER. FA: Alard Hufner BB: Nicole Hemphill & Alard Hufner 2004
LOCH NESS 25 *** [7D] Start about 1,5m right of Moon Dance and climbs the vertical face: Ken Thrash 2010
MORSE CODE 27 *** (N) Begins with a boulder problem following the crack upwards 6m right of Moon Dance. FA: Brian Weaver December 2009
424.4) SLIM JIM 19 *** [7D] Takes the trad line immediately right of Fat Annie, starting behind the bush. It is to the left of The One That Got Away. FA: Andrew Porter 2003
424.5) THE ONE THAT GOT AWAY 23 * [8D] The hidden line 4m right of FAT ANNIE. A tad contrived above the 3rd bolt. FA: Sean Ferguson 2004
439.5) CHAMPAGNE ON ICE 25 ** [6D] Start on the blocks of PLEASE DON'T TOUCH going right. Pre-clip the first draw and climb up the arete. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005
442.5) (THE TREES ARE MACHINES THAT MAKE) SWEETS FOR THE FISH 22 *** [7D] Climb the corner right of WOODPILE CRACK. Take care clipping the 3rd bolt. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2005
442.7) MOUNTAIN PURSUIT 12 *** [7D] Climb the grove left of GRAVY TRAIN. FA: Bronwyn Smith & Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2008
443.5) DEAD GECKO 19 *** [7D] Just right of Gravy Train. FA: Chris Vandereydt & Marcello Demilano 2005
447.1) UNFINISHED BUSINESS 22 *** [7D] Between Aussie Rules and Face In The Trough. FA: Ken Thrash
CLOCKWORK ORANGE 16 ** [9D] Starts in same place as Butterfly Snowstorm but moves out rightwards FA:D Margetts and A Margetts 2008
CLOCKWORK ORANGE VARIATION 14 ** [8D] Starts two meters left of rocky and joins Clockwork Orange after 2nd bolt FA:D Margetts and A Margetts 2009
FADJA'S REVENGE 9 * [5D] 5 meters to the right of the Ladder FA: D Margetts A Margetts 2008
NEW CRAG....BREAKFAST CRAG,This crag is situated 100 Meters down and to the right of the end of Hallucinogen wall
ZOOTER 17 *** [9D] Climb a short face,move right to a layback and continue to chains FA:D Margetts 2008
GOLDEN PIE 17 *** [7D] Climb layback crack FA: D Margetts A Margetts 2008
CHICKEN WING 15 *** [8D] Climb short face and arete FA: D Margetts K Thrash 2008
SPARE RIB 12 ** [7D] Climb break to the right of Chicken Wing FA:D Margetts E Margetts and A Margetts.
CRACK UP 15 *** [5D] Climb the break 20 meters to the right of Spare Rib FA: D Margetts and A Margetts.
On the walk from Hallucinogen to Superbowl a small crag is found on the left.
457.4) I DEXE 24 **** [10D] The direct line just left of CACTUS PALLACE. FA: Bine Tittel 2005
457.5) CACTUS PALLACE 23 ***** [10D] The obvious bolted line diagonally up right. Philippe Gaboriaud 2004
457.6) FOR YOUR COLORFICATION 28 **** [8D] The parallel route to the right of CACTUS PALLACE. FA: Jens Richter 2005
457.7) KIMCHI 27 **** [11D] FA: Dan Honeymann 2007
457.8) DOUG IN THE YELLOW HOUSE 26 *** [13D] Starts on tree roots 15m left of FRAZZLE. A tenuous start leads to a jug fest through the roofs to the chains. FA: Jens Richter & Bine Tittel 2005
460.1) Project. Dewald Kloppers
461) ***Correction*** GIANTS, back down to 26, if you use the correct beta!
461.9) KARFOEFELING 26 **** [13D] Starts on RUDE BUSHMAN and then go left. FA: Mark Seuring & Alard Hüfner 2004
462.95) HARD NORMAL DADDY **** 25 [10D] Climb the obvious corner right of RUDE BUSHMAN. FA: Dan Honeyman 2007 (PS: Start on this route and climb over onto RUDE BUSHMAN for an alternative 23 and do the vice versa for a bit more of a solid 25 experience if you want!)
463.5) HYPERTENSION 30 **** [13D] Between Lotter's Desire and Tugela Blue. An interesting line that requires a bit of everything - stamina, finger strength, reach, excellent footwork and a bit of intestinal fortitude. FA: Andrew Pedley 2005
464.5) OUT ON A LIMB 25/26 *** [10D] Head up the left hand limb of the white tree (below SM). Fight through the initial overhang and fire up the headwall above to the chains. There is potential to take the route through the massive roof above… FA: Mark Millar 2006
464.6) SOUL MANDATE 25 ** [11D] Start between the fork of the White tree about 5m left of Miss McKinley. A thuggish start leads to some good climbing above. FA: Mark Millar 2004
471.5) NAME UNKNOWN 22 *** [12D] New route to the right of Hallucinagenic Toreador. Be aware of the potentially lose (and brain damaging) block just before the chains. This block has been REMOVED and is now safe to climb. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2006
471.6) LE SKETCH 22 *** [11D] The route starts just to the left of GLEN and fires through the small roof 5m below the top of the crag. A good line on good holds. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud & Vince 2003
503) KINDRED SPIRITS 25 **** [9D] Now re-bolted by Dirk Smith August 2007. A GREAT line, now with shiny new bolts! Climb it. FA: Grant Murray '92
The Right Wing
About 100 m further along from the Theatre
507) JOY DIVISION 30 *** (11D). Chain added and no trad placement needed. Heads up the blank textured wall. An introduction to hard Boven crimping. Reachy. Originally graded 29! FA: Richard Lord 1992.
The Stone Philosopher Area
This crag is around the corner from JOY DIVISION.
507.4) COLLAPSE OF REASON 22 *** [10D] The left route. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree 2005
507.5) RISE OF FAITH 22 *** [10D] The right route. FA: Peter Martin & Colin Crabtree 2005
507.6) UNEXPLORED GALAXY 21 ** [8D] Around the corner of Rise of Faith. FA: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts December 2007
A list of routes at Boven that need re-bolting is posted here, add anything you think needs work. The MCSA is sponsoring bolts on a continual basis.