Waterval Boven

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(The Waterval Boven Guide)
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This guide covers everything.
 
This guide covers everything.
  
[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Waterval_Boven_Guide_May_2012.pdf ONLINE GUIDE TO SPORT AND TRAD CLIMBING AT WATERVAL BOVEN, SOUTH AFRICA - Updated December 2011.]
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http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/mpumalanga/waterval-boven/
  
 
== Add New Routes below: ==
 
== Add New Routes below: ==
  
'''Baboon Buttress'''
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'''Last Crag of the Century, Waterfall Area'''
  
Diablo 26 *** (7D) Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of afterthought. Intense start with a interesting finish. FA: Evan Margetts, July 2011
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MADIBA MAGIC 18 **** [15D,A] Starts 10 right from the base of the normal descent gully. In character with the rest of the awesomeness of this crag. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2013
  
Blood Diamond 28 *** (5D)Situated to the right of psych ward . Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder however do not use this boulder during your ascent. Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top. FA: David Wade and Evan Margetts BB: Darryl Margetts. 29th April 2012
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AMAKROKOKROKO 23 **** [17D,A] Hack up the bushy slope just right of CAFFEINE JITTERS to the obvious right facing corner leading up to the fun crack system. FA: Hector Pringle 2013
  
RAPTOPHILIA 31 **** (7D,A) It's not rape if you yell surprise!
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'''Superbowl, Wonderland'''
Start with your hands on the lowest holds and feet on the lowest boulders, no cheating. Fight your way to the chains using pure determination as your guide. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Ensure that you clip the first draw from the ground to avoid injury. Consensus makes it 31.
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FA: Brian Weaver, April 2011
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'''Hallucinogen Wall'''
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FULL ANIMAL 27 **** [14D,A] The line between Coach and Life in Orange. Use slings on the three bolts after the half-height rest. Remember to go full animal on the lip of the roof. FA: Hector Pringle 2014
  
ARE YOU CHICKEN ENOUGH? 25 *** [Trad, A]
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'''God-No Wall, Wonderland'''
Climbs the thin crack between THE HARDER YOU PUSH and MOONDANCE, to a set of chains half way up the wall.  Opened on trad.  Chicken bolts will be added soon.  FA: Andrew Porter, April 2012
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TOOLBOX 21 ***** [17D,A] Starts 15m left of Rodan in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014
  
Spicy Habanero Salsa 24 *** (5D) Start on the right of Banging Bridget Jones.  Start on the flat hand holds right of the thin vertical seam/crack.  Traverse left into seam and climb up (hard) moving left into crack.  Head rightwards into undercling under roof, through roof and finish up the final crack to the chains of BBJ.  Possibly easier if you are tall.
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'''Tranquilitas, Wonderland'''
FA: Robert Powell and Edna Calvo, December 2011.
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Saint Gabriel 21 *** (+-6D) Thin face climb between Angel Of Mercy and The Winnebago Smile. Name written on the rock. FA: Evan Margetts, Darryl Margetts
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BROKEN TREE 16 ** [11D,A] Starts 1 meter to the right of Roc Rally. First bolt right of small tree. Three cruxes, all different and gets airy after the step over. Needs 60 meter rope. Great Photo opportunity from top of crag.   BB: Johan Moelich FA: Sharon Benade 2013
 
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Iron Lotus 21 ** (8D) Climb the thin face just right of Rocky, staying on the face (Going left makes it easier).  
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FA: Darryl Margetts and Evan Margetts 2010
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'''Superbowl'''
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Coach 26 *** (12?D) Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Between Frazzle and Doug in the Yellow House.  
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FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2011. Bolted by Tim Dunnett and Dirk Smith.
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The Doomsday Device 26 *** (13D) Start up the first 5 bolts of Miss Mckinley and then head right. FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2012. Bolts supplied by MCSA; beta, doomsday device and drill by Dewald; belays by Warren and Jono.
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Revision as of 09:02, 24 March 2014

Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.

The Waterval Boven Guide

This guide covers everything.

http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/south-africa/mpumalanga/waterval-boven/

Add New Routes below:

Last Crag of the Century, Waterfall Area

MADIBA MAGIC 18 **** [15D,A] Starts 10 right from the base of the normal descent gully. In character with the rest of the awesomeness of this crag. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2013

AMAKROKOKROKO 23 **** [17D,A] Hack up the bushy slope just right of CAFFEINE JITTERS to the obvious right facing corner leading up to the fun crack system. FA: Hector Pringle 2013

Superbowl, Wonderland

FULL ANIMAL 27 **** [14D,A] The line between Coach and Life in Orange. Use slings on the three bolts after the half-height rest. Remember to go full animal on the lip of the roof. FA: Hector Pringle 2014

God-No Wall, Wonderland

TOOLBOX 21 ***** [17D,A] Starts 15m left of Rodan in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014

Tranquilitas, Wonderland

BROKEN TREE 16 ** [11D,A] Starts 1 meter to the right of Roc Rally. First bolt right of small tree. Three cruxes, all different and gets airy after the step over. Needs 60 meter rope. Great Photo opportunity from top of crag. BB: Johan Moelich FA: Sharon Benade 2013

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