Difference between revisions of "Waterval Boven"

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Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.
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        |og:site_name=Climb ZA
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        |og:type=article
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        |og:image=http://www.climbing.co.za/w/images/thumb/9/99/Flex_tokolosie.jpg/800px-Flex_tokolosie.jpg
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        |article:publisher=https://www.facebook.com/pages/Climb-ZA-Rock-Climbing-South-Africa/302540184148
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        |title=Climbing in Waterval Boven, Mpumalanga South Africa
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        |titlemode=replace
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        |keywords=Climbing, Waterval Boven, Mpumalanga, South Africa, Sport Climbing
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        |description=Waterval Boven - Boven (aka The Restaurant at the End of the Universe crags) – is arguably South Africa’s best sport climbing area. These crags attract year round international visitors ever since articles were published in 1993 in the German magazine Rotpunkt as well as in other media.
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== The Waterval Boven Guide ==
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{{Infobox Area
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        | Picture = [[File:Flex tokolosie.jpg|336px]]
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        | Dirlink = [[File:Ad climbza watervalboven info.jpg|link=http://www.climbing.co.za/directory/waterval-boven/]]
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        | Latitude = -25.642851
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        | Longitude = 30.330343
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        | Climbing Type = Sport
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        | Rock Type = Quartzite/Sandstone
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        | Season = All year round
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        | Province = Mpumalanga
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        | Area = Waterval Boven
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}}
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Waterval Boven – ‘Boven (aka The Restaurant at the End of the Universe crags) – is arguably South Africa’s best sport climbing area. These crags attract year round international visitors ever since articles were published in 1993 in the German magazine Rotpunkt as well as in other media. It has become famous for its good selection of great quality routes (over 700 of them!) of all grades that are easily accessible.
  
This guide covers everything.
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== The Waterval Boven Climbing Guide ==
  
[http://www.climb.co.za/topo/pdf/Waterval_Boven_Guide_May_2012.pdf ONLINE GUIDE TO SPORT AND TRAD CLIMBING AT WATERVAL BOVEN, SOUTH AFRICA - Updated May 2012.]
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This PDF guide covers everything and it can be downloaded here for free.
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http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/download/49865/
  
 
== Add New Routes below: ==
 
== Add New Routes below: ==
  
'''Baboon Buttress'''
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'''Last Crag of the Century, Waterfall Area'''
  
Diablo 26 *** (7D) Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of afterthought. Intense start with a interesting finish. FA: Evan Margetts, July 2011
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MADIBA MAGIC 19 **** [15D,A] Starts 10 right from the base of the normal descent gully. In character with the rest of the awesomeness of this crag. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2013
  
Blood Diamond 28 *** (5D)Situated to the right of psych ward . Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder however do not use this boulder during your ascent. Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top. FA: David Wade and Evan Margetts BB: Darryl Margetts. 29th April 2012
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AMAKROKOKROKO 24 **** [17D,A] Scramble up the bushy slope just right of CAFFEINE JITTERS to the obvious right facing corner leading up to the fun crack system. Move right onto the head-wall towards the top. Drill bit issues resulted in three top anchors being placed. One anchor is worthless (its obvious which one), the other two are good. It will get cleaned up soon. FA: Hector Pringle 2013
  
RAPTOPHILIA 31 **** (7D,A) It's not rape if you yell surprise!
 
Start with your hands on the lowest holds and feet on the lowest boulders, no cheating. Fight your way to the chains using pure determination as your guide. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Ensure that you clip the first draw from the ground to avoid injury. Consensus makes it 31.
 
FA: Brian Weaver, April 2011
 
  
'''Hallucinogen Wall'''
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'''Tranquilitas, Wonderland'''
  
ARE YOU CHICKEN ENOUGH? 25 *** [Trad, A]
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BROKEN TREE 16 *** [11D,A] Starts 1 meter to the right of Roc Rally. First bolt right of small tree. Three cruxes, all different and gets airy after the step over. Needs 60 meter rope. Great Photo opportunity from top of crag. FA: Sharon Benade BB: Johan Moelich 2013
Climbs the thin crack between THE HARDER YOU PUSH and MOONDANCE, to a set of chains half way up the wall. Opened on trad. Chicken bolts will be added soon. FA: Andrew Porter, April 2012
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Spicy Habanero Salsa 24 *** (5D) Start on the right of Banging Bridget Jones.  Start on the flat hand holds right of the thin vertical seam/crack.  Traverse left into seam and climb up (hard) moving left into crack.  Head rightwards into undercling under roof, through roof and finish up the final crack to the chains of BBJ.  Possibly easier if you are tall.
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'''God-No Wall, Wonderland'''
FA: Robert Powell and Edna Calvo, December 2011.
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Saint Gabriel 21 *** (+-6D) Thin face climb between Angel Of Mercy and The Winnebago Smile. Name written on the rock. FA: Evan Margetts, Darryl Margetts
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GEM SQUASH 21 **** [12D,A] Starts on a small buttress almost touching the path 30m left of the MONSTER cave. Blast through the roofs right of the massive wild fig tree. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
  
Iron Lotus 21 ** (8D) Climb the thin face just right of Rocky, staying on the face (Going left makes it easier).  
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BUTTERNUT 20 **** [10D,A] The (very worthwhile) second pitch of GEM SQUASH. Traverse left from the finishing ledge of GEM SQUASH without clipping the chains. Continue along for 3 bolts to reach the belay chains. Be prepared for some well deserved ambiance. Can be done in one massive pitch with enough extender slings below the first set of chains (not recommended!). You need at least an 80m rope to do both pitches and reach the ground. A 60m rope with strech will be only just good enough to abseil from the top chains. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014 Bolts sponsored by MCSA!
FA: Darryl Margetts and Evan Margetts 2010
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'''Superbowl'''
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AGORAPHOBIA 23 ** [13D,A] Shares first 3 clips with GEM SQUASH then break right and onto the face straight through the imposing roof. You can make it 18 if you want to meander left along the tree and up the corner. (Agoraphobia: Fear of open spaces). FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA.
  
Coach 26 *** (12?D) Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Between Frazzle and Doug in the Yellow House.  
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LEG-O 22 *** [14D,A] Starts below an obvious fin-like feature through some rock fig branches left of JENGA. Take care of small sections with precariously loose looking rocks. Good climbing after that. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2011. Bolted by Tim Dunnett and Dirk Smith.
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The Doomsday Device 26 *** (13D) Start up the first 5 bolts of Miss Mckinley and then head right. FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2012. Bolts supplied by MCSA; beta, doomsday device and drill by Dewald; belays by Warren and Jono.
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JENGA 18 **** [12D,A] Shares a start with TOOLBOX on its own bolts, tending left at the 3rd bolt. A true pump-fest at the grade. Use the lonely fixed 'biner out right to make cleaning this route easier, or back clean it. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
  
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TOOLBOX 21 ***** [17D,A] Starts 15m left of Rodan in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014
  
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PURGATORY PERHAPS? 25 *** [14D,A] Between Roc Chucka Chic and Big Bad Wolf. NB: This route is 36m long - use at least a 70 m rope and tie a knot in the end! The belayer will have to climb up onto the first ledge in order to lower the climber. FA: Marc Flex Efune 2015. Hardware provided by MCSA/Boven Fund. 
  
== New additions since the May 2012 verison of the guide ==
 
  
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'''Disciple Wall'''
  
'''He-Man Area'''
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DENDROPHILIA 21 *** [13D,A] Just right of BITTERGAL is a recess. Climb the bolts using the tree to get onto the fun stuff. Colin's grab-tree is a rather unique feature on this climb, lets hope it stays there. The name is related to the love of trees. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2015
  
These routes are located about 40m East of the main wall. Facing ''Cotapaxi'', walk left past a corner and a wide crack, down a few meters to a narrow ledge. There are two cracks are about 2m apart and just left of a short corner.
 
  
*SKELETOR 21 **** [Trad]
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'''Superbowl, Wonderland'''
Climb the steep hand/fist crack on the left. Over the small roof the angle eases. Belay from blocks at the top of the cliff. FA: Richard Halsey, April 2012.
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*SHE-RA 20 ** [Trad]
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FULL ANIMAL 27 **** [14D,A] The line between Coach and Life in Orange. Use slings on the three bolts after the half-height rest. Remember to go full animal on the lip of the roof. FA: Hector Pringle 2014
Climb the right-hand crack with a tricky start into a small offwidth. At the aloe traverse left to finish up ''Skeletor''. FA: Richard Halsey, April 2012.
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OPEN PROJECT Climb Giants. From the last bolt before the chains continue diagonally left into the roofs. See if you can decipher the hard move at the final roof. An alternative start is to link Karfoefelling or Ovamboland into Giant's crux. Bolted by Hector Pringle 2015
  
'''God No! Wall'''
 
  
*THE ENGAGEMENT CRUISE 21 *** [Trad]
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'''The Theatre'''
Scramble up left past the start of Rodan, to a narrow ledge. Start on the left of the ledge, just left of the stacked blocks. Straight up a short face, though the overlap and up to below the roof. Rail left to the break in the roof, pull up to the next rail, and then move back right until you can pull up onto the grey ramp. Move slightly left and up the narrow, brown corner, stepping right at the top. Finish up the face between the aloes to the top.  FA: Richard Halsey and Tim Dunnett, May 2012.
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*MUTATION 33 ***** (17D,A) Climbs Beast until 2/3rds height. From the letterbox 'rest' do the big move as for Beast but continue straight up and claw your way through the cracks with your core roaring at you and your feet desperately searching for anything to stand on. An instant classic at the God No Wall. One of the best lines in Boven.
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BIG IN JAPAN 30 *** [12D,A] The line of bolts left of Kindred Spirits. This line has a controversial history supposedly involving an unauthorised first ascent followed by the bolts being chopped by the original bolter. The line was rebolted by Danny Pinkas and re-opened by Marc Efune in November 2014.
FA: Brian Weaver, June 2012
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'''Superbowl'''
 
*THE NEXT GENERATION 33 ***** (12D,A) The route previously known as 'The Broject' starts up the easy pillar 5m right of Hack and Slay. A short easy face leads into Boven's answer to Rocklands roof bouldering. Get creative and enjoy something unique to Boven. A massive thanks goes to my Big Bro - Dewald Kloppers - for bolting the line and letting me try it with him. FA: Marc Flex Efune, December 2012, BB Dewald Kloppers
 
  
'''Theatre'''
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'''The Mayhem Crags'''
*MANKINI BLUE 26 *** (8D,A) Climb Bikini Red for two bolts then move left and up via 1-2 small holds. A crimpers delight. FA: Andrew Pedley, June 2012
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Actually where the greatest tranquility is found. These crags are on the next farm south of Tranquiltas, accessed by a 15 minute easy walk from the Tranquilitas Campsite. Climbing is on compact technical walls and arête climbing on amazing quality rock above a valley that is deep and unspoilt. The setting has a ‘wilder’ feel added to by the complete lack of any cellphone signal. Beautiful indigenous trees grow along the base and the crags are quiet except for the sound of the waterfall and the baboons. There are only a few routes at present but new climbs are being added. Climbs are shady from 11 onwards except for those at the Animal Farm Sector. The landowner has graciously granted access on the basis that climbers absolutely stick to the following rules:
  
'''Breakfast crag'''
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'''- ONLY WALK IN BY THE APPROVED ROUTE
*KIRI 18 *** (5D,A)To the right of CRACK UP, around the corner. Climb the arete on the left. BB: Sharon Benade FA: Johan Moelich, July 2012
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- KEEP DOGS ON A LEAD AS THERE ARE ANIMALS ON THE FARM
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- NO FIRES EVER
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- NO LITTER, INCLUDING CIGARETTE BUTTS AND TOILET PAPER
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- DO NOT WALK OVER THE DAM WALL OR ANY OTHER PLACE IN VIEW OF THE FARMHOUSE'''
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Breaking these rules could easily result in closure of the area to climbers so don’t be the responsible one
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APPROACH
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The walk in has been marked specifically to avoid disturbing the owner, taking a short cut across the hill is absolutely not permitted and actually does not save more than a minute or two.
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Start at the boom gate close to the toilet block at Tranquilitas campsite, walk along the rough track for 250 metres until it bends sharply to the left and there is a cairn in the grass. Cut across on grassy track 30 metres to a well-worn mountain bike trail, follow this for 230 metres to a large cairn on right and cross grass to obvious place to easily step over the fence (cairns) onto a dirt road. Walk 100 m along the road through trees, when you exit the trees there is a cairn (should be a cow skull on it). From here:
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- For the Apocalypse Cow Sector, from the 'cow-skull cairn', head left (north east) towards the cliff top. There is a lovely narrow gully (aka 'Narrow Gulley') to walk down. From here the climbs are to the right (facing out). There is no real path and the ground is not easy but there looks to be a few good lines. Another option is to abseil into the climbs, either from the chains (which can be reached with care, from the top) or by slinging boulders.
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- For the Burning Man Walls head right (south) following cairns and cattle tracks 450 metres to a flat rock with a cairn by a large wattle tree growing on the cliff top. Hiding behind this tree is an easy scramble down, arriving at the east (right) end of the sector. The path along the base is good as it gives access to the Waterfall.
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- For the Animal Farm Sector. These are the crags facing NW on the opposite sid eof the valley (sunny except early morning and evening) Do not walk over the dam wall as we must not walk on top of the cliffs there. Rather, walk in as for Burning Man Walls, make your way over the stream just past an old metal pump about 30m down from the falls, through some thorns. Then up to the crags easily enough.
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''CORRUPTION SECTOR''
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Much more broken, but with some superb walls and the hardest slab in Boven! A bit of a bundu bash approach, or ab in. Climbs are described from left to right.
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POWER AND GLORY. 25 **** Unique pocketed orange wall. Can be seen from the top and accessed by abseil, its on the section almost directly (a little to the south) in front and below of the cow skull cairn. Or can be accessed by walking 180 m left (facing the crag) from the 'Narrow Gulley' (see above), shortly after the ‘grey slabs'. FA J Theron. Feb 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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CLOSED PROJECT of Jahne Theron. A good 160 m from the narrow gully are the unmistakable compact 40 metre wide ‘grey slabs’, with very few holds on it. Jahnes Project takes the obvious weakness at its centre via some very hard moves on tiny holds. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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''BURNING MAN WALLS''
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Probably the best sector, clean orange walls and aretes. The climbs are described from left (waterfall end) to right :
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"KINGS OF CHAOS" 27 ****. Starts off a large boulder. Up then rail wildy left then up the leaning prow to some trickery, way too much fun. FA Andrew Pedley April 2015. Bolts provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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"BLADE-RUNNER" 28 ***** The blade like curving arête gives sensational climbing. How classic?. FA. Andrew Pedley. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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''The next lines are on the compact streaked wall with a nice flat base''
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GERMAN IN 30 DAYS 21 *** Starts at yellowwood tree, left of Changeling. Through small roof onto face, a crux sequence leads to the chains. FA: Wes Makovini, July 2015
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CHANGELING 17 *** Climb the corner. Try not to use the dodgy looking block low down. FA: Liz Makovini, June 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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PSYCHOTIC COMBOVER 27 **** Start in the corner of Changeling then head right onto the fun technical face. FA: Marc Efune July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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LUNATIC FRINGE. 28 *** Up the middle of the wall. Starts with some cool moves up a mini arête then sustained technical stuff all the way to the chains. FA: Andrew Pedley March 2015. Bolts provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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HULLABALOO. 22 ***  Up the easier looking diagonal series of cracks and breaks, just right of Lunatic Fringe. FA & BB Guenther Bargon, Maryke Nieuwoudt & Roland Magg. Feb 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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SUMMERS IN RANGOON. 25 **** Starts just beside a small tree at an ‘overlap’. Powerful start with endure wall climbing above. FA: Jonothan Cohen March 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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CLOSED PROJECT of Colin Crabtree
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BAG O' BONES 25 *** FA: Up the face to the left of Burning Man, over the roof and to rightish and then back left at the top. Dewald Kloppers August 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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BURNING MAN. 28 **** Up the stellar red wall. A bouldery start, and pumpy mid-section, then a crazy rail R then back left to some trickery. FA: Andrew Pedley March 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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DEAD COWS CAN'T DANCE. 23 **** The obvious arête/leaning pillar is climbed with as much style as possible. FA: Mo Hopf March 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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CLOSED PROJECT of Matt Hofman’s. 10 metres right (facing the cliff) of Dead Cows is a blank wall with a faint crackline up its right side. Starts by a tree stump. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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GORILLA TACTICS. 23 *** A few meters to the right of Matt's project. Scramble up the block behind the tree and start in the corner heading right through the roof and onto the face above. An attentive belay is especially important for the lower half of the route. FA: Marc Flex Efune July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA
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CLOSED PROJECT of Ciska Kloppers. The obvious large crack.
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CLOSED PROJECT of Marc Efune.
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CLOSED PROJECT of Wes Makovini. Starts in the corner, trending left around the roofs.
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SKELETOR. 27 ** Starts in the corner and then through the roof. FA: Marc Efune August 2015.
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SLAUGHTERHOUSE 5. 29 **** The beautiful technical face then wild moves through the roof. FA: Marc Efune. August 2015 Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA
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HIDDEN FIRE 18 * Continue past Michelle's project (if approaching from the access gully). Just as the path starts a sharp descent, the route starts in the red corner. Stick to the corner and move left at third bolt. Using the precarious looking block higher up lowers the grade. FA: Liz Makovini, May 2015.
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PSYCHO BAMBI 18 ** [Trad, A] Obvious crack to the right of Hidden Fire. Chains at the top. FA: Liz Makovini, July 2015
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JACK'S ANXIETY 18 *** The face immediately to the right of Psycho Bambi. FA: Alan Hughes, July 2015.
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GONE IN 60 SECONDS 17 *** Starts at tree to the right of Jack's Anxiety. FA: Wes Makovini, July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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BLACK LOTUS 17 ** Climbs a corner halfway between the embayment and Gone in 60 seconds. FA: Liz Makovini, July 2015.
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DRILL SERGEANT. 24 *** The corner 5 metres left of Michelle's project. FA: Marc Efune July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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CLOSED PROJECT of Michelle van Aswegen. From the gulley, walk 15 m along the trail past the huge yellow-wood there is an ‘embayment’. The climb takes a discontinuous crack up a grey vertical face. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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CLOSED PROJECT of Alan Hughes. In the descent gully on left.
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CLOSED PROJECT of Alan Hughes. At the bottom of the descent gully. The face on the left.
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GEOMANCER 16 ** Once down the gulley, turn left instead of right, its after about 20 metres and can be seen from the top. Hangers are all painted brown. The climb starts in a corner where you gain a ledge, and the climbing starts. FA & BB Liz Makovini, May 2015.  Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
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REQUIEM FOR A YELLOWWOOD 14 ** Next climb around the corner to the right of Geomancer. Starts in a small cave. Gain the top of the block and step across onto the face. FA: Wes Makovini, June 2015
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''ANIMAL FARM SECTOR''
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Currently only one line here:
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THIRD TIME LUCKY  23 *** Climb good holds to the ledge. Move out left and commence the fun up to the last bolt. Attach your giant balls and crush it to the top through some thin, lead out climbing. Bolted by Allister Fenton and Chris O'Donovan. FA Chris O'Donovan, March 2015.

Latest revision as of 08:56, 27 August 2015

Ad climbza watervalboven info.jpg

Flex tokolosie.jpg
Waterval Boven
Loading map...
Latitude-25.642851
Longitude30.330343
Climbing TypeSport
Rock TypeQuartzite/Sandstone
SeasonAll year round
ProvinceMpumalanga
AreaWaterval Boven



Waterval Boven – ‘Boven (aka The Restaurant at the End of the Universe crags) – is arguably South Africa’s best sport climbing area. These crags attract year round international visitors ever since articles were published in 1993 in the German magazine Rotpunkt as well as in other media. It has become famous for its good selection of great quality routes (over 700 of them!) of all grades that are easily accessible.

The Waterval Boven Climbing Guide

This PDF guide covers everything and it can be downloaded here for free. http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/download/49865/

Add New Routes below:

Last Crag of the Century, Waterfall Area

MADIBA MAGIC 19 **** [15D,A] Starts 10 right from the base of the normal descent gully. In character with the rest of the awesomeness of this crag. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2013

AMAKROKOKROKO 24 **** [17D,A] Scramble up the bushy slope just right of CAFFEINE JITTERS to the obvious right facing corner leading up to the fun crack system. Move right onto the head-wall towards the top. Drill bit issues resulted in three top anchors being placed. One anchor is worthless (its obvious which one), the other two are good. It will get cleaned up soon. FA: Hector Pringle 2013


Tranquilitas, Wonderland

BROKEN TREE 16 *** [11D,A] Starts 1 meter to the right of Roc Rally. First bolt right of small tree. Three cruxes, all different and gets airy after the step over. Needs 60 meter rope. Great Photo opportunity from top of crag. FA: Sharon Benade BB: Johan Moelich 2013


God-No Wall, Wonderland

GEM SQUASH 21 **** [12D,A] Starts on a small buttress almost touching the path 30m left of the MONSTER cave. Blast through the roofs right of the massive wild fig tree. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA

BUTTERNUT 20 **** [10D,A] The (very worthwhile) second pitch of GEM SQUASH. Traverse left from the finishing ledge of GEM SQUASH without clipping the chains. Continue along for 3 bolts to reach the belay chains. Be prepared for some well deserved ambiance. Can be done in one massive pitch with enough extender slings below the first set of chains (not recommended!). You need at least an 80m rope to do both pitches and reach the ground. A 60m rope with strech will be only just good enough to abseil from the top chains. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014 Bolts sponsored by MCSA!

AGORAPHOBIA 23 ** [13D,A] Shares first 3 clips with GEM SQUASH then break right and onto the face straight through the imposing roof. You can make it 18 if you want to meander left along the tree and up the corner. (Agoraphobia: Fear of open spaces). FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA.

LEG-O 22 *** [14D,A] Starts below an obvious fin-like feature through some rock fig branches left of JENGA. Take care of small sections with precariously loose looking rocks. Good climbing after that. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA

JENGA 18 **** [12D,A] Shares a start with TOOLBOX on its own bolts, tending left at the 3rd bolt. A true pump-fest at the grade. Use the lonely fixed 'biner out right to make cleaning this route easier, or back clean it. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA

TOOLBOX 21 ***** [17D,A] Starts 15m left of Rodan in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014

PURGATORY PERHAPS? 25 *** [14D,A] Between Roc Chucka Chic and Big Bad Wolf. NB: This route is 36m long - use at least a 70 m rope and tie a knot in the end! The belayer will have to climb up onto the first ledge in order to lower the climber. FA: Marc Flex Efune 2015. Hardware provided by MCSA/Boven Fund.


Disciple Wall

DENDROPHILIA 21 *** [13D,A] Just right of BITTERGAL is a recess. Climb the bolts using the tree to get onto the fun stuff. Colin's grab-tree is a rather unique feature on this climb, lets hope it stays there. The name is related to the love of trees. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2015


Superbowl, Wonderland

FULL ANIMAL 27 **** [14D,A] The line between Coach and Life in Orange. Use slings on the three bolts after the half-height rest. Remember to go full animal on the lip of the roof. FA: Hector Pringle 2014

OPEN PROJECT Climb Giants. From the last bolt before the chains continue diagonally left into the roofs. See if you can decipher the hard move at the final roof. An alternative start is to link Karfoefelling or Ovamboland into Giant's crux. Bolted by Hector Pringle 2015


The Theatre

BIG IN JAPAN 30 *** [12D,A] The line of bolts left of Kindred Spirits. This line has a controversial history supposedly involving an unauthorised first ascent followed by the bolts being chopped by the original bolter. The line was rebolted by Danny Pinkas and re-opened by Marc Efune in November 2014.


The Mayhem Crags

Actually where the greatest tranquility is found. These crags are on the next farm south of Tranquiltas, accessed by a 15 minute easy walk from the Tranquilitas Campsite. Climbing is on compact technical walls and arête climbing on amazing quality rock above a valley that is deep and unspoilt. The setting has a ‘wilder’ feel added to by the complete lack of any cellphone signal. Beautiful indigenous trees grow along the base and the crags are quiet except for the sound of the waterfall and the baboons. There are only a few routes at present but new climbs are being added. Climbs are shady from 11 onwards except for those at the Animal Farm Sector. The landowner has graciously granted access on the basis that climbers absolutely stick to the following rules:

- ONLY WALK IN BY THE APPROVED ROUTE - KEEP DOGS ON A LEAD AS THERE ARE ANIMALS ON THE FARM - NO FIRES EVER - NO LITTER, INCLUDING CIGARETTE BUTTS AND TOILET PAPER - DO NOT WALK OVER THE DAM WALL OR ANY OTHER PLACE IN VIEW OF THE FARMHOUSE

Breaking these rules could easily result in closure of the area to climbers so don’t be the responsible one

APPROACH The walk in has been marked specifically to avoid disturbing the owner, taking a short cut across the hill is absolutely not permitted and actually does not save more than a minute or two. Start at the boom gate close to the toilet block at Tranquilitas campsite, walk along the rough track for 250 metres until it bends sharply to the left and there is a cairn in the grass. Cut across on grassy track 30 metres to a well-worn mountain bike trail, follow this for 230 metres to a large cairn on right and cross grass to obvious place to easily step over the fence (cairns) onto a dirt road. Walk 100 m along the road through trees, when you exit the trees there is a cairn (should be a cow skull on it). From here:

- For the Apocalypse Cow Sector, from the 'cow-skull cairn', head left (north east) towards the cliff top. There is a lovely narrow gully (aka 'Narrow Gulley') to walk down. From here the climbs are to the right (facing out). There is no real path and the ground is not easy but there looks to be a few good lines. Another option is to abseil into the climbs, either from the chains (which can be reached with care, from the top) or by slinging boulders.

- For the Burning Man Walls head right (south) following cairns and cattle tracks 450 metres to a flat rock with a cairn by a large wattle tree growing on the cliff top. Hiding behind this tree is an easy scramble down, arriving at the east (right) end of the sector. The path along the base is good as it gives access to the Waterfall.

- For the Animal Farm Sector. These are the crags facing NW on the opposite sid eof the valley (sunny except early morning and evening) Do not walk over the dam wall as we must not walk on top of the cliffs there. Rather, walk in as for Burning Man Walls, make your way over the stream just past an old metal pump about 30m down from the falls, through some thorns. Then up to the crags easily enough.


CORRUPTION SECTOR Much more broken, but with some superb walls and the hardest slab in Boven! A bit of a bundu bash approach, or ab in. Climbs are described from left to right.

POWER AND GLORY. 25 **** Unique pocketed orange wall. Can be seen from the top and accessed by abseil, its on the section almost directly (a little to the south) in front and below of the cow skull cairn. Or can be accessed by walking 180 m left (facing the crag) from the 'Narrow Gulley' (see above), shortly after the ‘grey slabs'. FA J Theron. Feb 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

CLOSED PROJECT of Jahne Theron. A good 160 m from the narrow gully are the unmistakable compact 40 metre wide ‘grey slabs’, with very few holds on it. Jahnes Project takes the obvious weakness at its centre via some very hard moves on tiny holds. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.


BURNING MAN WALLS Probably the best sector, clean orange walls and aretes. The climbs are described from left (waterfall end) to right :

"KINGS OF CHAOS" 27 ****. Starts off a large boulder. Up then rail wildy left then up the leaning prow to some trickery, way too much fun. FA Andrew Pedley April 2015. Bolts provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

"BLADE-RUNNER" 28 ***** The blade like curving arête gives sensational climbing. How classic?. FA. Andrew Pedley. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

The next lines are on the compact streaked wall with a nice flat base

GERMAN IN 30 DAYS 21 *** Starts at yellowwood tree, left of Changeling. Through small roof onto face, a crux sequence leads to the chains. FA: Wes Makovini, July 2015

CHANGELING 17 *** Climb the corner. Try not to use the dodgy looking block low down. FA: Liz Makovini, June 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

PSYCHOTIC COMBOVER 27 **** Start in the corner of Changeling then head right onto the fun technical face. FA: Marc Efune July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

LUNATIC FRINGE. 28 *** Up the middle of the wall. Starts with some cool moves up a mini arête then sustained technical stuff all the way to the chains. FA: Andrew Pedley March 2015. Bolts provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

HULLABALOO. 22 *** Up the easier looking diagonal series of cracks and breaks, just right of Lunatic Fringe. FA & BB Guenther Bargon, Maryke Nieuwoudt & Roland Magg. Feb 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

SUMMERS IN RANGOON. 25 **** Starts just beside a small tree at an ‘overlap’. Powerful start with endure wall climbing above. FA: Jonothan Cohen March 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

CLOSED PROJECT of Colin Crabtree

BAG O' BONES 25 *** FA: Up the face to the left of Burning Man, over the roof and to rightish and then back left at the top. Dewald Kloppers August 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

BURNING MAN. 28 **** Up the stellar red wall. A bouldery start, and pumpy mid-section, then a crazy rail R then back left to some trickery. FA: Andrew Pedley March 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

DEAD COWS CAN'T DANCE. 23 **** The obvious arête/leaning pillar is climbed with as much style as possible. FA: Mo Hopf March 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

CLOSED PROJECT of Matt Hofman’s. 10 metres right (facing the cliff) of Dead Cows is a blank wall with a faint crackline up its right side. Starts by a tree stump. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

GORILLA TACTICS. 23 *** A few meters to the right of Matt's project. Scramble up the block behind the tree and start in the corner heading right through the roof and onto the face above. An attentive belay is especially important for the lower half of the route. FA: Marc Flex Efune July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

CLOSED PROJECT of Ciska Kloppers. The obvious large crack.

CLOSED PROJECT of Marc Efune.

CLOSED PROJECT of Wes Makovini. Starts in the corner, trending left around the roofs.

SKELETOR. 27 ** Starts in the corner and then through the roof. FA: Marc Efune August 2015.

SLAUGHTERHOUSE 5. 29 **** The beautiful technical face then wild moves through the roof. FA: Marc Efune. August 2015 Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA

HIDDEN FIRE 18 * Continue past Michelle's project (if approaching from the access gully). Just as the path starts a sharp descent, the route starts in the red corner. Stick to the corner and move left at third bolt. Using the precarious looking block higher up lowers the grade. FA: Liz Makovini, May 2015.

PSYCHO BAMBI 18 ** [Trad, A] Obvious crack to the right of Hidden Fire. Chains at the top. FA: Liz Makovini, July 2015

JACK'S ANXIETY 18 *** The face immediately to the right of Psycho Bambi. FA: Alan Hughes, July 2015.

GONE IN 60 SECONDS 17 *** Starts at tree to the right of Jack's Anxiety. FA: Wes Makovini, July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

BLACK LOTUS 17 ** Climbs a corner halfway between the embayment and Gone in 60 seconds. FA: Liz Makovini, July 2015.

DRILL SERGEANT. 24 *** The corner 5 metres left of Michelle's project. FA: Marc Efune July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

CLOSED PROJECT of Michelle van Aswegen. From the gulley, walk 15 m along the trail past the huge yellow-wood there is an ‘embayment’. The climb takes a discontinuous crack up a grey vertical face. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

CLOSED PROJECT of Alan Hughes. In the descent gully on left.

CLOSED PROJECT of Alan Hughes. At the bottom of the descent gully. The face on the left.

GEOMANCER 16 ** Once down the gulley, turn left instead of right, its after about 20 metres and can be seen from the top. Hangers are all painted brown. The climb starts in a corner where you gain a ledge, and the climbing starts. FA & BB Liz Makovini, May 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

REQUIEM FOR A YELLOWWOOD 14 ** Next climb around the corner to the right of Geomancer. Starts in a small cave. Gain the top of the block and step across onto the face. FA: Wes Makovini, June 2015


ANIMAL FARM SECTOR Currently only one line here:

THIRD TIME LUCKY 23 *** Climb good holds to the ledge. Move out left and commence the fun up to the last bolt. Attach your giant balls and crush it to the top through some thin, lead out climbing. Bolted by Allister Fenton and Chris O'Donovan. FA Chris O'Donovan, March 2015.