Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.
The Waterval Boven Guide
This guide covers everything.
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Last Crag of the Century, Waterfall Area
MADIBA MAGIC 18 **** [15D,A] Starts 10 right from the base of the normal descent gully. In character with the rest of the awesomeness of this crag. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2013
AMAKROKOKROKO 23 **** [17D,A] Hack up the bushy slope just right of CAFFEINE JITTERS to the obvious right facing corner leading up to the fun crack system. FA: Hector Pringle 2013
FULL ANIMAL 27 **** [14D,A] The line between Coach and Life in Orange. Use slings on the three bolts after the half-height rest. Remember to go full animal on the lip of the roof. FA: Hector Pringle 2014
God-No Wall, Wonderland
GEM SQUASH 22 **** Starts on a small buttress almost touching the path 30m left of the MONSTER cave. Blast through the roofs right of the massive wild fig tree. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014 Bolts sponsored by MCSA!
BUTTERNUT 19 *** The second pitch of GEM SQUASH. Traverse left from the finishing ledge of GEM SQUASH and be prepared for some well deserved ambiance. Can be done in one massive pitch with enough extender slings below the first set of chains. You need at least a 70m rope to do both pitches and reach the ground. A 60m rope will be just good enough to abseil from the final chains. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014 Bolts sponsored by MCSA!
LEG-O 23 ** Starts below an obvious fin feature through some rock fig branches left of JENGA. Take care of small sections with precariously loose looking rocks. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014 Bolts sponsored by MCSA!
JENGA 18 **** Shares a start with TOOLBOX, tending left at the 3rd bolt. A true pump-fest at the grade. Use the lonely fixed 'biner out right to make cleaning this route easier, or back clean it. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014 Bolts sponsored by MCSA!
TOOLBOX 21 ***** [17D,A] Starts 15m left of Rodan in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014
BROKEN TREE 16 ** [11D,A] Starts 1 meter to the right of Roc Rally. First bolt right of small tree. Three cruxes, all different and gets airy after the step over. Needs 60 meter rope. Great Photo opportunity from top of crag. BB: Johan Moelich FA: Sharon Benade 2013