Waterval Boven is one of South Africa's premier spots for sport climbing. There are hundreds of excellent quality sport routes on orange sandstone.
The Waterval Boven Guide
This guide covers everything.
Add New Routes below:
Diablo 26 *** (7D) Climb the bouldery face 5 meters right of afterthought. Intense start with a interesting finish. FA: Evan Margetts, July 2011
Blood Diamond 28 *** (5D)Situated to the right of psych ward . Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder however do not use this boulder during your ascent. Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top. FA: David Wade and Evan Margetts BB: Darryl Margetts. 29th April 2012
RAPTOPHILIA 31 **** (7D,A) It's not rape if you yell surprise! Start with your hands on the lowest holds and feet on the lowest boulders, no cheating. Fight your way to the chains using pure determination as your guide. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Ensure that you clip the first draw from the ground to avoid injury. Consensus makes it 31. FA: Brian Weaver, April 2011
HYPOPNEA 25 *** (6D,A) From the ledge at the chains of Dreamers (23), un-clip the chains and keep clipping diagonally left to more chains. If you do this and Dreamers as one pitch, you need a 70m rope and tie knots in the ends! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2013
ARE YOU CHICKEN ENOUGH? 25 *** [Trad, A] Climbs the thin crack between THE HARDER YOU PUSH and MOONDANCE, to a set of chains half way up the wall. Opened on trad. Chicken bolts will be added soon. FA: Andrew Porter, April 2012
Spicy Habanero Salsa 24 *** (5D) Start on the right of Banging Bridget Jones. Start on the flat hand holds right of the thin vertical seam/crack. Traverse left into seam and climb up (hard) moving left into crack. Head rightwards into undercling under roof, through roof and finish up the final crack to the chains of BBJ. Possibly easier if you are tall. FA: Robert Powell and Edna Calvo, December 2011.
Saint Gabriel 21 *** (+-6D) Thin face climb between Angel Of Mercy and The Winnebago Smile. Name written on the rock. FA: Evan Margetts, Darryl Margetts
Iron Lotus 21 ** (8D) Climb the thin face just right of Rocky, staying on the face (Going left makes it easier). FA: Darryl Margetts and Evan Margetts 2010
Coach 26 *** (12?D) Dedicated to Heiko Tillwick - Rest in Peace, Coach. Between Frazzle and Doug in the Yellow House. FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2011. Bolted by Tim Dunnett and Dirk Smith.
The Doomsday Device 26 *** (13D) Start up the first 5 bolts of Miss Mckinley and then head right. FA: Marc 'Flex' Efune 2012. Bolts supplied by MCSA; beta, doomsday device and drill by Dewald; belays by Warren and Jono.
New additions since the May 2012 verison of the guide
These routes are located about 40m East of the main wall. Facing Cotapaxi, walk left past a corner and a wide crack, down a few meters to a narrow ledge. There are two cracks are about 2m apart and just left of a short corner.
- SKELETOR 21 **** [Trad]
Climb the steep hand/fist crack on the left. Over the small roof the angle eases. Belay from blocks at the top of the cliff. FA: Richard Halsey, April 2012.
- SHE-RA 20 ** [Trad]
Climb the right-hand crack with a tricky start into a small offwidth. At the aloe traverse left to finish up Skeletor. FA: Richard Halsey, April 2012.
God No! Wall
- THE ENGAGEMENT CRUISE 21 *** [Trad]
Scramble up left past the start of Rodan, to a narrow ledge. Start on the left of the ledge, just left of the stacked blocks. Straight up a short face, though the overlap and up to below the roof. Rail left to the break in the roof, pull up to the next rail, and then move back right until you can pull up onto the grey ramp. Move slightly left and up the narrow, brown corner, stepping right at the top. Finish up the face between the aloes to the top. FA: Richard Halsey and Tim Dunnett, May 2012.
- MUTATION 32 ***** (17D,A) Climbs Beast until 2/3rds height. From the letterbox 'rest' do the big move as for Beast but continue straight up and claw your way through the cracks with your core roaring at you and your feet desperately searching for anything to stand on. An instant classic at the God No Wall. One of the best lines in Boven. Downgraded after an easier sequence found a way to skip a 6 move boulder problem in the crux.
FA: Brian Weaver, June 2012
- THE NEXT GENERATION 33 ***** (12D,A) The route previously known as 'The Broject' starts up the easy pillar 5m right of Hack and Slay. A short easy face leads into Boven's answer to Rocklands roof bouldering. Get creative and enjoy something unique to Boven. A massive thanks goes to my Big Bro - Dewald Kloppers - for bolting the line and letting me try it with him. FA: Marc Flex Efune, December 2012, BB Dewald Kloppers
- MANKINI BLUE 26 *** (8D,A) Climb Bikini Red for two bolts then move left and up via 1-2 small holds. A crimpers delight. FA: Andrew Pedley, June 2012
- KIRI 18 *** (5D,A)To the right of CRACK UP, around the corner. Climb the arete on the left. BB: Sharon Benade FA: Johan Moelich, July 2012