|Season||All year round|
Waterval Boven – ‘Boven (aka The Restaurant at the End of the Universe crags) – is arguably South Africa’s best sport climbing area. These crags attract year round international visitors ever since articles were published in 1993 in the German magazine Rotpunkt as well as in other media. It has become famous for its good selection of great quality routes (over 850 of them!) of all grades that are easily accessible.
A PDF guide covers almost everything and can be downloaded here for free. http://www.climbing.co.za/areas/waterval-boven/
The following sections document new routes not yet in the guide.
- 1 ACRA Wall, Waterfall Area
- 2 Last Crag of the Century, Waterfall Area
- 3 Restaurant Crag
- 4 Tranquilitas, Wonderland
- 5 God-No Wall, Wonderland
- 6 Disciple Wall
- 7 Superbowl, Wonderland
- 8 The Theatre
- 9 The Mayhem Crags
ACRA Wall, Waterfall Area
TI' DRAGON 29 **** [15D, A]This fine route breaks through the roof 20m right of Urisk. Abseil in from chains just left (if you look down stream) of the obvious multi-stemmed cabbage tree. A 60m rope will make it with stretch, tie knots in the ends! FA: Grégoire Sobczak and Didier Hoarau 2016.
Last Crag of the Century, Waterfall Area
MADIBA MAGIC 19 **** [15D,A] Starts 10 right from the base of the normal descent gully. In character with the rest of the awesomeness of this crag. A 65m-70m rope is required, although there is a possibility of scrambling down the last couple of meters. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2013
BIBICHE LINE 20 **** [14D,A] Left of SPORT CLIMBING IS DEAD. FA: Fred Roulx 2016
PAINT IT BLACK 22 **** [15D,A] Right of SPORT CLIMBING IS DEAD. FA: Fred Roulx 2016
AMAKROKOKROKO 24 *** [17D,A] Scramble up the bushy slope just right of CAFFEINE JITTERS to the obvious right facing corner leading up to the fun crack system. Move right onto the head-wall towards the top. FA: Hector Pringle 2013
ME 22 ** [11D,A] Starts on first bolt of WHO'S YOUR DADDY and goes straight up. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2016
VOTE FOR PEDRO - TRAD 18 ** The obvious crack on the freestanding pillar left of Vicious Fishes. Watch out for loose rock. FA: Allister Fenton Dec 2015
VICIOUS FISHES 19 **** [8D,A] Situated on a freestanding pillar about 50m right of WHO'S YOUR DADDY. Start from the path and climb the steep left arete. FA: Hector Pringle 2016
SAVAGE CABBAGE 22 **** [8D, A] The line a few meters right of VICIOUS FISHES. Stick clip the first bolt (or lean across from the tree). FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo December 2016
PLANETARY ALIGNMENT 23 *** [13D, A] Climbs the "hidden" line just right of WORLDS APART. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2016.
- With the kind contribution of the MCSA Jhb/Pta bolting fund, the following routes have been re-bolted with new shiny bolts: MJS, GP le Chuck, Red Herring.
MORTAL COMEBACK 14 ** [Trad] Start up JACKY CHAN onto the picnic ledge then crush out diagonally right onto the summit on good gear. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Chris Jansen 2015
TEMPLE OF LOVE 18 *** [9D,A] Follow the path around the corner 25m to the right of the Aapstreke chimney. Climb the small open book and skirt the overlap on the right. FA: Liz Makovini Nov 2015
VISION THING 18 **** [16D,A] Starts 20m right of FEVER. Negotiate a small roof, continue up and pull through the cruxy bulge. Switch style and enjoy the face climbing to the chains. Important: To avoid rope drag, unclip the first bolt and use long sling on second draw beneath the roof. 60m rope essential! FA: Wes Makovini Sep 2015
God-No Wall, Wonderland
GEM SQUASH 22 **** [12D,A] Starts on a small buttress almost touching the path 30m left of the MONSTER cave. Blast through the roofs right of the massive wild fig tree. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
BUTTERNUT 21 *** [10D,A] The (mostly worthwhile) second pitch of GEM SQUASH. Traverse left from the finishing ledge of GEM SQUASH without clipping the chains. Continue along for 3 bolts to reach the belay chains. Be prepared for some well deserved ambiance. Can be done in one massive pitch with enough extender slings below the first set of chains (not recommended!). You need at least an 80m rope to do both pitches and reach the ground. A 60m rope with stretch will be only just good enough to abseil from the top chains. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014 Bolts sponsored by MCSA
AGORAPHOBIA 23 ** [13D,A] Shares first 3 clips with GEM SQUASH then break right and onto the face straight through the imposing roof. You can make it 18 if you want to meander left along the tree and up the corner. (Agoraphobia: Fear of open spaces). FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA.
LEG-O 23 *** [14D,A] Starts below an obvious fin-like feature through some rock fig branches left of JENGA. Take care of small sections with precariously loose looking rocks. Good climbing after that. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
JENGA 18 **** [12D,A] Shares a start with TOOLBOX on its own bolts, tending left at the 3rd bolt. A true pump-fest at the grade. Use the lonely fixed 'biner out right to make cleaning this route easier, or back clean it. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014. Bolts sponsored by MCSA
MIKADO 22 *** [18D,A] Starts up JENGA. Cut right through the roof before clipping the last bolt on JENGA (unclipping the draw below your waist will make the rope drag less here). Rest on the ledge and crawl up the technical wall as you wind up left and right of the line of bolts on funky holds. FA: Gustav & Alex Janse van Rensburg 2017
TOOLBOX 21 ***** [17D,A] Starts 15m left of Rodan in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. FA: Philippe Gaboriaud and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2014
PURGATORY PERHAPS? 26 *** [14D,A] Between Roc Chucka Chic and Big Bad Wolf. NB: This route is 36m long - use at least a 70 m rope and tie a knot in the end! The belayer will have to climb up onto the first ledge in order to lower the climber. FA: Marc Flex Efune 2015. Hardware provided by MCSA/Boven Fund.
WHAT BIG EYES YOU HAVE 21 **** [14D,A] Start on u-bolts as per ALICE IN GRANNYLAND and sneak around the right of the arête onto hangers till the top. Expect some spectacular exposed sections. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg and Stephan Isabeck 2017
DENDROPHILIA 21 **** [13D,A] Just right of BITTERGAL is a recess. Climb the bolts using the tree to get onto the fun stuff. Colin's grab-tree is a rather unique feature on this climb, lets hope it stays there. The name is related to the love of trees. FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2015
LAST SUPPER 18 *** [13D] Starts 1m right of Lucy. FA: Wes Makovini 2016
DOUBLE EXPOSURE 21 *** [15D,A] Starts on the far left of the crag in the bushes and traverses right on easy ground with great views over the canopy of trees. Extend (double up) the first 4 draws to minimise drag on the headwall. Clean this route on toprope ONLY! An interesting adventure... FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg and Philippe Grandremy 2017
SUSPENSION TRAUMA 24 *** [14D,A] Situated 15m left of the drip up a slightly overhanging face. Sadly some TV sized blocks took out a tree and some bushes at the base. Otherwise it has wild moments and good preparation for those wanting to go full animal. FA: Philippe Grandremy and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2016
ANIMAL LECTER 25 **** [14D,A] Starts on white rock just right of the drip by the fallen tree. A scrappy start (may be wet in summer) leads to jamming followed by fun, sustained climbing up the right-trending groove, then left through the roofs. FA: Hector Pringle 2017
POWER ANIMAL 27 **** [14D,A] The line between Coach and Full Animal. Start by the white-stemmed tree and veer right onto the clean face after the third bolt. Choose your power animal wisely for the two distinctly different cruxes. Beware of wasps in the crack above the third bolt. FA: Hector Pringle 2016
FULL ANIMAL 27 **** [14D,A] The first line left of the Life in Orange project and Frazzle. Use slings on the three bolts after the half-height rest. Remember to go full animal on the lip of the roof. FA: Hector Pringle 2014
OPEN PROJECT Climb Giants. From the last bolt before the chains continue diagonally left into the roofs. See if you can decipher the hard move at the final roof. An alternative start is to link Karfoefelling or Ovamboland into Giant's crux. Bolted by Hector Pringle 2015
THUNDERSTUCK 22 *** [10D,A] Start steep under the overhang left of Miss Mac. FA: Mel and Gustav Janse van Rensburg 2016
BIG IN JAPAN 30 *** [12D,A] The line of bolts left of Kindred Spirits. This line has a controversial history supposedly involving an unauthorised first ascent followed by the bolts being chopped by the original bolter. The line was rebolted by Danny Pinkas and re-opened by Marc Efune in November 2014.
The Mayhem Crags
Actually where the greatest tranquility is found. These crags are on the next farm south of Tranquiltas, accessed by a 15 minute easy walk from the Tranquilitas Campsite. Climbing is on compact technical walls and arête climbing on amazing quality rock above a valley that is deep and unspoilt. The setting has a ‘wilder’ feel added to by the complete lack of any cellphone signal. Beautiful indigenous trees grow along the base and the crags are quiet except for the sound of the waterfall and the baboons. There are only a few routes at present but new climbs are being added. Climbs are shady from 11 onwards except for those at the Animal Farm Sector. The landowner has graciously granted access on the basis that climbers absolutely stick to the following rules:
- only walk in by the approved route
- keep dogs on a lead as there are animals on the farm
- no fires
- no litter, including cigarette butts and toilet paper
- do not walk over the dam wall or any other place in view of the farmhouse
Breaking these rules could easily result in closure of the area to climbers so don’t be the responsible one
APPROACH The walk in has been marked specifically to avoid disturbing the owner, taking a short cut across the hill is absolutely not permitted and actually does not save more than a minute or two. Start at the boom gate close to the toilet block at Tranquilitas campsite, walk along the rough track for 250 metres until it bends sharply to the left and there is a cairn in the grass. Cut across on grassy track 30 metres to a well-worn mountain bike trail, follow this for 230 metres to a large cairn on right and cross grass to obvious place to easily step over the fence (cairns) onto a dirt road. Walk 100 m along the road through trees, when you exit the trees there is a cairn (should be a cow skull on it).
Both the routes and the sectors are described from left to right here (facing the cliff).
The Tramp Side Sector
When looking across the valley, this is the crag left of The Animal Farm sector starting left of the decent gulley running onward.
A CRACK IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION 19 - [Trad] Steep leftward facing crackline. Tree at base in the way of starting moves. Use extra rope to pull tree back to leave unharmed. Follow obvious left tending crack. Insane. Insane. Busts to the ledge above and then up right and out to a loweroff tree. FA Alex Bester, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
FOG OF WAR 21 - [Trad] Follows the straight crack on the left side of the face. Directly left of Pick of Destiny. FA Ebert Nel, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
PICK OF DESTINY - [Trad] Potential line with thin rockstack flake that might be the end of me.
GONE BIGALOO 21 - [Trad] Starts left of tree. Sketchy bouldry start to some great gear a few meters up. Follow natural slotted bomber flakes up, straight up to the tip of the cliffline. FA. Alex Bester, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
JANE DEER 18 - [Trad] Starts on a slightly elevated grassy platform behind a tree. Busts up the obvious splitter crack in the corner. Follows the lefthand big crack all the way to the top with some sketchy spice at the end. Variation of the uber classic original line, John Doe. FA: Ebert Nel, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
JOHN DOE 16 - [Trad] Starts on a slightly elevated grassy platform behind a tree. Busts up the obvious splitter crack in the corner. Head out right following the smaller crackline of goodness, instead of the straight up deadly Jane Doe variation. Real steller climbing. Pick this one. Warmup classic. FA: Alex Bester, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
MONKEY MUNCHED MY MAGIC MUSHROOMS 17 - [Trad] Starts in the cover of the trees. Step through the tree into the chimney and make your way up to the first gear a few meters above deck. Bomber gear all the way. Climb slightly overhanging face up bomber cracks. Easier than it looks. FA: Ebert Nel, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
Animal Farm Sector
This is the first crag past the waterfall facing NW on the opposite (to the mayhem) side of the valley. It is sunny except early morning, evening and cloudy days;).
Currently only one line here:
THIRD TIME LUCKY 23 *** Climb good holds to the ledge. Move out left and commence the fun up to the last bolt. Attach your giant balls and crush it to the top through some thin, lead out climbing. Bolted by Allister Fenton and Chris O'Donovan. FA Chris O'Donovan, March 2015.
Burning Man Walls
Head right (south) following cairns and cattle tracks 450 metres to a flat rock with a cairn by a large wattle tree growing on the cliff top. Hiding behind this tree is an easy scramble down a gully into Jack's Playground. From there, the path going right along the base is good as it gives access to the Waterfall.
Probably the best sector, clean orange walls and aretes. The climbs are described from left (waterfall end) to right :
SHALLOW GRAVE 27 **** Currently, the route closest to the waterfall. A tricky start leads to some fun and heady pulling. FA: Marc Efune April 2017. Hardware provided by MCSA.
DEEP IMPACT 27 **** In front of a small clearing and a large yellow arrow painted on a boulder. 13 draws and chains of varied Mayhem magic. FA: Marc Efune June 2016.
CLOSED PROJECT of Marc Efune. Hardware provided by MCSA.
ARMAGEDDON 26 **** Starts in a slightly wet section between Deep Impact and Pandora's Box and leads onto marvelous meandering Mayhem magic. FA: Marc Efune October 2016
PANDORA'S BOX 31/32 ***** Starts on a boulder then a journey with 3 crowd-pleasing roofs. A must-do! FA: Marc Efune May 2016. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
KINGS OF CHAOS 27 **** Starts off a large boulder. Up then rail wildy left then up the leaning prow to some trickery, way too much fun. FA Andrew Pedley April 2015. Bolts provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
BLADE-RUNNER 28 ***** The blade like curving arête gives sensational climbing. How classic?. FA. Andrew Pedley. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
The next lines are on the compact streaked wall with a nice flat base
GERMAN IN 30 DAYS 23 *** Starts at yellowwood tree, left of Changeling. Through small roof onto face, a crux sequence leads to the chains. FA: Wes Makovini, July 2015
CHANGELING 17 *** Climb the corner. Try not to use the dodgy looking block low down. FA: Liz Makovini, June 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
PSYCHOTIC COMBOVER 27 **** Start in the corner of Changeling then head right onto the fun technical face. FA: Marc Efune July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
LUNATIC FRINGE. 28 *** Up the middle of the wall. Starts with some cool moves up a mini arête then sustained technical stuff all the way to the chains. FA: Andrew Pedley March 2015. Bolts provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
HULLABALOO. 22 *** Up the easier looking diagonal series of cracks and breaks, just right of Lunatic Fringe. FA & BB Guenther Bargon, Maryke Nieuwoudt & Roland Magg. Feb 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
SUMMERS IN RANGOON. 25 **** Starts just beside a small tree at an ‘overlap’. Powerful start with endure wall climbing above. FA: Jonathan Cohen March 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
CLOSED PROJECT of Colin Crabtree
BAG O' BONES 25 *** Up the face to the left of Burning Man, over the roof and to rightish and then back left at the top. FA: Dewald Kloppers August 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
BURNING MAN. 28 **** Up the stellar red wall. A bouldery start, and pumpy mid-section, then a crazy rail R then back left to some trickery. FA: Andrew Pedley March 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
THE MISSING RIB 24 [trad] Busts up the giant rib like rock formation between the two huge cracks. Traverse in from the left on the jug rail till below the big splitter cracks, trixy moves and fun climbing to the top. Topped out to the left but finishing on DCCD might make for a more pleasurable clean. Bomber gear. FA. Ebert Nel, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
DEAD COWS CAN'T DANCE. 23 **** The obvious arête/leaning pillar is climbed with as much style as possible. FA: Mo Hopf March 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
ZUPTA SANDWICH BAR. 17. ** Climbs the diagonal ramp before exiting through easy break to the top. FA: Guenther Bargon & Maryke Nieuwoudt Feb 2016
CLOSED PROJECT of Dewald Kloppers. Starts in the corner and heads up through the big roofs.
CLOSED PROJECT of Matt Hofman’s. 10 metres right (facing the cliff) of Dead Cows is a blank wall with a faint crackline up its right side. Starts by a tree stump. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
GORILLA TACTICS. 23 *** A few meters to the right of Matt's project. Scramble up the block behind the tree and start in the corner heading right through the roof and onto the face above. An attentive belay is especially important for the lower half of the route. FA: Marc Flex Efune July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA
MEDUSA. 23 *** The obvious large crack. FA: Ciska Kloppers September 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA
APOCALYPSE COW. 30 **** Just right of Medusa's large crack. A tough move getting onto the lower face leads onto some lovely climbing. Tentative grade of 30 but might be easier if you're the right height. FA: Marc Efune November 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA
SKELETOR. 27 ** Starts in the corner and then through the roof. FA: Marc Efune August 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA
SLAUGHTERHOUSE 5. 28 **** The beautiful technical face then wild moves through the roof. FA: Marc Efune August 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA
HIDDEN FIRE 18 ** Continue past Psycho Bambi. Just as the path starts a sharp descent, the route starts in the red corner. Stick to the corner and move left at third bolt. Using the precarious looking block higher up lowers the grade. FA: Liz Makovini, May 2015.
PSYCHO BAMBI 18 ** [Trad, A] Obvious crack to the right of Hidden Fire. Chains at the top. FA: Liz Makovini, July 2015
JACK'S ANXIETY 18 *** The face immediately to the right of Psycho Bambi. FA: Alan Hughes, July 2015.
GONE IN 60 SECONDS 17 *** Starts at tree to the right of Jack's Anxiety. FA: Wes Makovini, July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
HOP TOAD 15 ** Climb the chimney to the right of Gone in 60 Seconds. Finish on the left. FA: Liz Makovini, July 2016.
NO BUENO 16 [trad] At the far end of the gully in the corner. Climb the corener snaking right around the tree and topping out above it again. FA Ebert Nel, October 2016.
GIRL ALL THE BAD GUYS WANT 14 ***** [Trad, A] Hidden in the corridor just left of BSB. Climbs the obvious crack in the stack. Fun fun fun. FA. Ebert Nel, October 2016. Permission has been given to retrobolt.
BLUE STINGRAY BOOTS 22 *** Climbs the face on the free-standing pillar 20m right of Hop Toad. FA: Wes Makovini, Sep 2016.
BLACK LOTUS 16** The inside corner of the free-standing pillar right of Blue Stingray Boots. FA: Liz Makovini, July 2015.
Project. The arête just left of marakas. The perfect corner climb. BB. Alex Bester.
MARAKAS. 20 *** Situated in the atrium or inland ‘embayment’, 8m left of Drill Sergeant. Climb up the obvious crack line. Use technique and some balance to ascend to the chains. FA & BB Guenther Bargon & Maryke Nieuwoudt Aug 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
DRILL SERGEANT. 24 *** The corner 5 metres left of Sharpen Up Cupcake. FA: Marc Efune July 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
SHARPEN UP CUPCAKE. 26 ** From the gulley, walk 15 m along the trail past the huge yellow-wood to an ‘embayment’. The climb takes a discontinuous crack up a grey vertical slab/face. FA: Michelle van Aswegen, November 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
Head right (south) following cairns and cattle tracks 450 metres to a flat rock with a cairn by a large wattle tree growing on the cliff top. Hiding behind this tree is an easy scramble down a gully, leading you into Jack's Playground.
JACK AND JILL. 14 on toprope. In the descent gully on left. Start at the same base as Jack In A Box but veers up left to the hanging bolts. BB Alan Hughes. Dec 2015.
JACK IN A BOX. 14 * [5D,A] In the descent gully on left. Starts from the centre of the shelf and follows bolts direct to the top. BB Alan Hughes. Dec 2015.
JACK BE NIMBLE. 16 ** [7D, A] At the bottom of the descent gully, round the left facing out to the valley. Start centre of slab and goes direct staying right of the feature. BB Alan Hughes. May 2016.
DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE 16 *** [8D] Find the secret entrance to a corridor hidden amongst the blocks. At the base of the descent gully into the Mayhem. FA & BB Liz Makovini, August 2016.
GEOMANCER 16 ** Once down the gulley, turn left instead of right, its after about 20 metres and can be seen from the top. Hangers are all painted brown. The climb starts in a corner where you gain a ledge, and the climbing starts. FA & BB Liz Makovini, May 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
REQUIEM FOR A YELLOWWOOD 14 ** Next climb around the corner to the right of Geomancer. Starts in a small cave. Gain the top of the block and step across onto the face. FA: Wes Makovini, June 2015
The Broken Sector
This is the sector left of the Hell Yeah sector. It starts a tier directly below The Mayhem thus abseiling into the furthest end and walking out via the Large Decent Gully is possible. The wall is very broken, but still solid. Incredible potential. Maybe a path linking the farend and the mayhem gully might be welcome.
Hell Yeah Sector
This sector is located between the corruption sector and The Mayhem entance gully. It is situated on a lower tier. It has not been cleared to enter from the mayhem tier, so abseiling in or walking from the far deck side are the current ways in. Great potential for sport and trad climbing.
IN LOVE WITH A SWINGER 18 [trad] Situated on the left arête of the cove. Sling the tree and hope not to fly followed by great gear and amazing climbing. FA Alex Bester, October 2016. Permission has been given to bolt this line.
MONKEY 17 [trad] In the left corner of the cove. Crack line to the top. The line that drew development to the area. Very cool. Very well protected. FA. Mitchell Jansen van Rensburg, October 2016.
JUST SMILE AND WAVE BOYS! JUST SMILE AND WAVE 20 [trad,R] Climb the right arête of the cove from the tree base belay start. Make your way up intricate tecnical climbing, followed by great climbing and gear, sling the tree root, place gear in the arête and fly to the top on the juggy arête worrying about nothing but the climbing . Run out but fun. FA. Ebert Nel, October 2016. Permission has been given to bolt.
ALLOCENTRIC 22 [trad, A] Located left of the ominous tiny cave with hourglass shaped cracks above it. An overhanging crackline with really good holds making for some really good climbing. There is a thinner crack line on this same face to the right.
This sector runs from the start of the lower tier crag once passing The Library or finishing the descent of the gully. This means it runs all the way under the Corruption sector and along to the Mini Godno sector (small 30 degree face with rolling sloping jug rails. Past this (further left along the crag) is a bushwacking followed by The Hell Yeah sector that starts with a massive slab beginner section.
VALHALLA 24 *****[trad, A] The leftmost line on the "mini Godno" wall. A 30 degree wall of rounded jug rail madness. Shares a starting platform with the indirect start of Tartarus and potentially a line left of the arête. Starts in the large openbook and rails out left to the jug on the corner following some trixyness and then big holds, bomber placements and crazy pump to make for a soon to be classic.. Shares anchors with Tartarus and Elysium. FA. Alex Bester, October 2016.
TARTARUS 24 ****[trad, A] On the mini Godno wall. The indirect start starts in the same openbook as Valhalla and rails out right. Pumpy powerful moves with bomber gear before it all goes down:D Mind blowing. FA. Ebert Nel, October 2016.
WELCOME TO TARTARUS 26 *****[trad, A] On the mini Godno wall. The direct start of Tartarus, starting on the ledge right of the tree inbetween the two open book cracks. Starts as for Elysium and busts straight up instead of heading right into the Elysium open book. Powerful move into an undercling crack, with powerful big moves inbetween big holds that follow. Amazing clean overhanging fun. FA. Ebert Nel, October 2016.
ELYSIUM 24 *****[trad, A] Starts on the ledge to the right of the tree. Busts over big blocks and then right into a tiny open book, followed by big sidepulls allowing for bomber gear placements before the pumpy jughauling madness and a pocket designed perfectly for a bomber red cam before facing the top mantle madness. A great thanks to the geckos that gave up their home. So much fun. FA. Alebert Supertramp, 2016.
The Corruption Sector is a tier/ledge that splits the crag in half along the height, thus corrupting the cliffs true height. It runs along a long section of the beginning/right side of the crag, so there is climbing both above and below this sector for part of the crag. The easiest way to walk to the corruption sector can be done by descending the Library entrance gully just downvalley past the deck. Halfway down the gully is a hidden entrance taking you on a fabulous adventure along a tiny ledge. This is known as the corruption sector. The first climbs are a few minutes from this entrance. There is also a halfway narrow gully that can be used to access/escape the Corruption Sector from the lower tier. Close to narrow gully there is a block stacked corridor that can help one access/escape this tier to the top of the crag. Further along the left of the corruption sector, at the very end is a dodgy gully that can also be used to enter/exit the corruption sector.
POWER AND GLORY. 25 **** Unique pocketed orange wall. Can be seen from the top and accessed by abseil, its on the section almost directly (a little to the south) in front and below of the cow skull cairn. Or can be accessed by walking 180 m left (facing the crag) from the 'Narrow Gulley' (see above), shortly after the ‘grey slabs'. FA J Theron. Feb 2015. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
~Tricky scramble splitting the corruption sector, can be descended to lower tier~
RUTHLESS BEHRS 17 [Trad] The obvious crack in the corner 20m left of the bolted slab project of Jahne. Follow the crack up the slab and overhang and tend right toward the very end. Super fun for the whole family. FA. Ebert Nel, October 2016.
PROJECT of Jahne Theron. A good 160 m from the narrow gully are the unmistakable compact 40 metre wide ‘grey slabs’, with very few holds on it. Jahn's Project takes the obvious weakness at its centre via some very hard moves on tiny holds. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.
BONNIE 19 **** [Trad] Starts right of a little tree growing out of a crack one meter above the ground. Follows the crack lines left past the roof following the offwidth. Still needs cleaning. FA. Gustav Janse van Rensburg, October 2016.
CLYDE 15 ** [Trad] Follows a rightward tending set of cracks up into the chimney exiting out the loose looking recess. Some gardening may be required for this one. Good gear. FA. Alex Janse van Rensburg, October 2016.
THE COBBLEPOT [Trad] Starts left of the tiny Dr Evil roof to the right of a precarious pile that should be avoided at all cost. These blocks can go at anytime. Make its way up the cracks tending out right toward the anchor tree above Dr Evil. FA. Alex Bester, October 2016.
Dr EVIL [Trad] Starts under the tiny roof a few meters up. Follow the crack that bisects the roof all the way to the top at the anchor tree. This is an uberclassic. FA. Alex Bester, October 2016.
H.H. HOLMES [Trad] starts to the right of Dr Evil on the corner. A unique vertical crack set making its way to the anchor tree makes for fenominal climbing.
TIME BANDIT ***** [Trad] This is a spectacular crack line on an arête that climbs up behind a yellow wood. Amazing climbing, a truly unique feature. Line is just to the right of Jeane's slab. FA. Alex Bester, October 2016.
MITCHBITCH [Trad] A few meters right and around the corner of Jahne's Slab project. Big flat block base. Follows the openbook left corner that starts desperately under some blocks and then moves into a thin thin overhanging crack with feet still on slab. Dont chicken out left;) FA. Mitchell Janse van Rensburg, October 2016.
GOLDEN GIRLS 19 *** [Trad] 50m from Narrow Gully. Start on the right hand side of a large roof at 2.5m. Climb the immaculate finger crack behind a yellowwood. Step right at the top of the crack to finish up a smooth looking face. FA: Sarel Petrus, Eddie Harvey and Kobus van Wyk, Feb 2016.
MATA HARI BLOWS A KISS 18 [trad] Just to the right of Golen Girls. The large crack that can swallow your body whole. #6 Cam makes it possible, #7 Cam makes it safe, smaller rack and you're on your own. Permission has been given to retrobolt reducing grade drematically. FA. Brían Meenehan, October 2016.
This is the sector with the large decent gully coming in downvalley adjacent to the deck. This sector is ideal for both trad and sport climbing and is in the morning sun, so afternoon shade. On the way down the large decent gully is a small inlet that takes one to the higher tier along the main wall known as the Corruption sector. Library routes are discussed from left to rigth, top of gully to the right.
CATCHER IN THE RYE 17 - [trad] Halfway down the gully, start in shallow openbook, up to a little roof, and layback to big blocks. Ends at big tree thats been slung. Permission to retrobolt has been given. FA. Alex Bester, October 2016.
The BFG 17 - [trad] Busts up the left crack of a double parallel top down crack in the center of the face. Good clean fun. Permission to retrobolt has been given. FA. Ebert Nel, October 2016.
The LORAX 18 - [trad] Crack right of The BfG. Starts to the right and climbs into the right crack to the left of the start. Sketchy gear down low with finger loving climbing from the first gear up:) Permission to retrobolt has been given. FA. Ebert Nel, October 2016.